GOVE Global Overland Vehicle Economical build.

[Terra Ops]

You mentioned not liking the step up in the bathroom. How high is your step? I'm in the process of a similar build with Rob.
Ours will have a pass through and a slide out. Just not as big as yours! Also was wondering if interior condensation has been an issue with your liner? Thanks

 

[heimbig]

step up to the bathroom in Phoenix pop-up camper

Terra Ops: The step up to the bathroom is 16" and about 3.5" down the other side in to the shower pan. So on the way out (and this is more the problem for me, you have step up 3.5" and down 16" it is a bit awkward. Our unit is as small as it can be, my wife and I felt the bathroom is wasteful space (no pun intended) - so we asked for it be small. The reason for the step is the grey water tank (and some storage) is under the head. The dimensions also result in me (5'10") not being able to fully stand up in the head, makes for awkward showering.

The step problem could be solved by:

• pump grey water somewhere else (which is really common on yachts but not something I'd want to do)
• install grey water tanks under the truck bed (I may still modify my truck to accomplish that.)
• Have Rob's tank builder (I think he has a guy who will build a custom grey tank) build a flatter (or smaller capacity) tank that uses the whole area and thus would have little or no storage. a flatter tank might add other problems like slosh.

Rob @ Phoenix will build it however you want it done, so be sure to talk to them about your preferences.

if you move the tank, there would still be a step up as there needs to be room for plumbing and the shower pan, but you could probably get it down to 6" instead of 16"

 

[heimbig]

Hellweg Sway Bars

I installed Hellweg sway bars in the rear. OEM diameter 1 1/16" the Hellwegs are 1.5" and as you can see below are also shorter adding to their anti-sway. Haven't driven it much, seemed fine around town the real test will rougher roads but it is all mud here for a couple months - and I have a huge truck to do list. One 'to do' was to make sure the new 37" tires have clearance, so while I was at the fab shop we used his fork lift to verify clearance, but -nothing- I mean no lift, almost no movement in the springs, so the test was pointless. the new sway bars are so stiff the fork life just lifted up the truck - the frame twisted, the front suspension responded (I hadn't installed the front Hellwigs at that point.) So I'll have to disconnect the new sway bar just to see how close the tires get to the bed.


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By the way, they came with a beautiful crinkle powder coat.

 

[nosnerd]

looks a bit like a 4 door version the the Turtle Expedition

 

[nosnerd]

Pacer also sells that style flare.. any autoparts store with a Keystone account can order in in 48 hrs

 

[heimbig]

sound proofing the front 1/2 of cab with carpet pad.

I insulated the rear half of the cab with dynamat dynaliner at a cost of $105 (post 95) I decided to go MUCH cheaper and use ordinary household carpet pad remnant (huge piece for $20 - lots left over). The dynaliner is sticky backed which really served to make it more difficult to install. the carpet pad worked great, easy to install, and I the sound deadening is better than dynaliner. Now, the 'noise' comes from the doors and roof - which before I didn't even notice. I'm definitely going to stuff and glue those areas with carpet pad.

I completely removed the front seats and center console. This also allowed me to reroute and hide some previously installed electrical. Carpet pad is a bit thicker and denser than dynaliner. Carpet pad is also not as compressible as dynaliner so you have to be careful and trim a bit more around plastic bits or they may not fit.

Since doing this I've put 10,000 miles on the truck and the carpet pad has not shifted, crumpled, nor broken down - so far!

In the cab columns I rolled up the carpet pad and shoved it in. If I need to, I can spay contact glue to the carpet pad to make it stay (like on the ceiling) but so far that wasn't needed.

the Ford carpet is skimpy and the carpet pad is visible

depending on how tall you are you don't notice:

 

[heimbig]

Rock Slide Engineering Step Slider Mod

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[TD]My wife and I have really enjoyed Rock Slide Engineering Step Slider - Especially since my wife broke the factory step at expo 2013 Post 96 has some additional details about the step slider.[/TD]
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[TD] On flat ground it is only mildly useful but on rough ground or if you level the rig while camping the extra step is great. While camping we open the door (lowering the step), turn the step off, and the lowered step stays lowered until we turn it back on.[/TD]
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[TD]The only problem with locking it down is if you forget and hit something with it down you are toast. (spoken from experience) At least when I stupidly did this I was able to get the step back into the slider for the rest of the trip.[/TD]
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[TD]In order to make the unit more solid I've added 4 per side 3/8" x 2" aluminum stiffening support. I installed two very close to the front and the other 2 spread out. I figured it is most likely to get hit from the front, and provides extra support getting my fat *** up the step. I've had this set up for 10,000 miles and no problem.[/TD]
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[TD]Personally I think it should be done like this from the factory and rock slide asked me about what I did, so maybe it will be included.[/TD]
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[TD]I cut the bars to length and went to the local machine shop and had them machine bent.[/TD]
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[TD]I used the Ford OEM bolts and OEM hidden 'nuts' plus an aluminum spacer up top to the truck body. I purchased slightly longer bolts to replace the Rock Slide Engineering bottom bolt. The result is MUCH sturdier for entry/exit when the step is down, and for sure much tougher if I ever hit the thing when it is up. Looks unmodified as you walk up to it.[/TD]
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[heimbig]

Solar Panel install and sealing the hole I made

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[TD]Last spring I gave in and installed 2x68 watt solar panels. These are very light (7 lbs each?) and attached directly to the roof. I followed the unisolar PVL-68 panel instructions, pretty straight forward. I used 10/2 SEOOW Portable Cord to connect to the CTEK d250s Dual charger (which includes MPPT controller) already installed.[/TD]
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[TD]I punched a hole through the roof (left on picture below) and installed the 10/2 cable. I used painters tape on the ceiling to seal it up then used 3M Marine 5200 Adhesive Sealant in blue package (not the quick cure 5220 stuff in red package) the 5200 sealant 'flows' slowly for about a day into any cracks and crevices. Most of the flow occurs over the first 2 hours, you may have to 'top off' the adhesive or you'll have a depression. If you don't close of the bottom opening thoroughly with tape or something it will flow right out. It takes 7 days to set up but wow it works great.[/TD]
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[TD]What can I say the panels work. But not terribly useful. In Mexico last summer I'd estimate that we got an extra day out of the batteries for every 3-4 that we camped. Since we didn't use A/C, or microwave, or stay in one place longer than 4 days we never needed the generator. With 80 degrees at night and 95 to 105 during the day the fridge ran almost constantly and we kept fans running most of the time too - so we had a pretty good load.[/TD]
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[TD]The panels below might look oddly spaced and we have room for more but we want to be able to walk on the roof and you are not supposed to walk on the panels so that is probably the limit for us.[/TD]
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[incognito]

http://www.jegs.com/p/Pacer-Perform...e-Universal-Fit-Flexy-Flares/1560633/10002/-1

here some 2.5 universal flexy flares
concerning the wheels i've had for 3 months 19.5 Bridgestone tires SRW conversion mounted on my Dodge . now they are for sale. found them stiff not a comfortable ride on bad Quebec roads. couldn't get rid of some tire vibration. also way too heavy. good luck and a good chiro if a tire change is needed.
Now i'm back to dually Michelin Ltx 235/85/r17 . happy again. fast confortable easy to change and nothing beats the stability of a dually when carry a truck camper.
i didn't upgrade my blog but i found an absolute necessity in order to my front suspension to work well offroad to have sway bar quick disconnect.wheels doesn't work properly offroad, independently with the sway bar connected

http://globalcamper.blogspot.ca/
incognito

 

[flylow4500]

I insulated the rear half of the cab with dynamat dynaliner at a cost of $105 (post 95) I decided to go MUCH cheaper and use ordinary household carpet pad remnant (huge piece for $20 - lots left over). The dynaliner is sticky backed which really served to make it more difficult to install. the carpet pad worked great, easy to install, and I the sound deadening is better than dynaliner. Now, the 'noise' comes from the doors and roof - which before I didn't even notice. I'm definitely going to stuff and glue those areas with carpet pad.

I completely removed the front seats and center console. This also allowed me to reroute and hide some previously installed electrical. Carpet pad is a bit thicker and denser than dynaliner. Carpet pad is also not as compressible as dynaliner so you have to be careful and trim a bit more around plastic bits or they may not fit.

Since doing this I've put 10,000 miles on the truck and the carpet pad has not shifted, crumpled, nor broken down - so far!

View attachment 255275

In the cab columns I rolled up the carpet pad and shoved it in. If I need to, I can spay contact glue to the carpet pad to make it stay (like on the ceiling) but so far that wasn't needed.

the Ford carpet is skimpy and the carpet pad is visible

View attachment 255276

depending on how tall you are you don't notice:

View attachment 255277

IMO I would not recommend putting the carpet pad in the doors because the pad will hold moisture. Usually there is not enough room to put the pad between the door panel and the moisture barrier so it has to go against the outside of the door. I have had great luck with one layer of dynamat extreme and one layer of 1/2" dynaliner. The dynaliner will not hold the moisture. Doors usually see more moisture in them than most people think. Thats why they have big drain holes in the bottom.

 

[heimbig]

sound proofing the front 1/2 of cab with carpet pad.

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[TD]flylow4500: That is interesting. Does the water get in the door due to leaky glass windows? or condensation?[/TD]
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[TD]As I recall the last door I took apart there was a plastic vapor barrier just outboard of the door panel, so I'm guessing condensation in the winter is the problem. if that is true and the water comes from condensation then there shouldn't be a problem gluing carpet pad to the exterior metal door panel. if the water is due to leakage then, for sure, carpet pad won't work.[/TD]
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[TD]butyl rubber is tire rubber tube, the dyanmat extreme also has a layer of aluminum on one side and sticky stuff on the other side. Might be cheaper to get some used tubes from a farm/combine supply place but I'd bet that would be a LOT harder to install.[/TD]
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[TD]Exercise mat, like dyanliner, is closed cell neoprene, and might be a better idea than carpet pad in the doors.[/TD]
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[TD]Perhaps on the floor I should have put a plastic vapor barrier between the carpet and the carpet pad.[/TD]
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[flylow4500]

I would guess the only time water gets in is with high pressure washing. I wash my truck a lot, and pay close attention to washing the seals out, so the windows don't scratch.

I don't think any barrier is needed on the floor.
I have a wholesale account with dynamat which makes it easier for me to justify using so much of it. My doors sound like they are made of 1/2" thick steel.

 

[heimbig]

problems with 22.5 wheels, enlarging wheel well, and installing fender flares

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[TD]With the installation of 22.5 wheels with 295/60r22.5 X multi XD tires 36.5" tall 10.5" wide tread. The tires where hitting the wheel wells on any turn, and hit sway bar on tight turns, and occasionally hit front cross member.[/TD]
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[TD]I recommend to anyone wanting to avoid hitting the sway bar to have the wheels built about 1 or 2" wider than the 7'3" I have. I removed the front sway bar and have driven 10,000 miles to Mexico and a second trip to SW USA and have concluded I need to put the sway bars back on. the Hellweg sway bars are amazingly better than factory or NONE. My conclusion is the extra support of the sway bars on the highway driving is worth it. If I think I need more motion for 4x4 road conditions they are easy to disconnect. When re-install the sway bar I'll need to build some sort of stopper to keep tires from rubbing which will impact my turning radius a bit.[/TD]
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[TD]I've read several people say you need only 'minor' modification for 41" tires I say "BS".[/TD]
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[TD]The 36.5" wheel ripped the factory plastic fender extension off on one side and rubbed a lot on the other.[/TD]
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[TD]Also, when backing up a hill under load, and turning, the tires rub a bit on a cross member in the wheel well. I have yet to do anything about it, since it is an unusual event.[/TD]
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[TD]Here is how I modified the factory fender:[/TD]
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[TD]tires also stick out:
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[TD]One of the more difficult days with my truck, marking and cutting the fender with a tin snip - so painful:
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[TD]Outer, plastic OEM fender mounted after trimming and bending 'tabs' on the metal fender showing how much extra space I need to cover. Also cut away a bunch of the OEM plastic fender which caused the little rigid plastic mud flap to have nothing to connect to - so it is gone. I used black RTV Silicone on all the cut metal surfaces to prevent rust (also on holes I drilled):
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[TD]We (being my wife and I -this was kind of a sewing/3d engineering deal) measured and formed with a heat gun ABS Sheet - .118" Thick to the required shape (took 2x more material due to failures and mistakes):
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[TD]Finished product mounted in OEM fender. just above the drill battery you can see the approximate 1 1/2" extra space we made:
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[TD]From left to right: trimmed OEM fender, ABS 'filler', (hidden behind is sheet metal fender), inner fiber wheel well - plenty of clearance for the big tires:
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[TD]We carefully installed Pacer Performance 52-191 Flexy Flares Black 1-3/4" x 58" Extension Kit - 2 Piece $39.00 on amazon, we 'screwed' them and used urethane adhesive (3M quick cure 5220) to glue them to the existing fender after both were thoroughly cleaned - from left to right inner fiber wheel well, ABS 'filler', OEM plastic fender, Flexy Flare. Looks bad from this angle, but you don't usually stick your head in there:
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[TD]Flexy flare installed - it isn't quite a enough coverage but workable in most situations:
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[TD]A possible downside to ABS is it looses strength in the cold, we'll see if it is a problem this winter.[/TD]
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[flylow4500]

Truck looks great!

I feel your pain with those tires, an inch taller than a 285 is a huge difference. FYI if you sign up with Family Motor Coach you will get much better pricing on Michelin tires (through advantage program, if you ever have to buy tires again.) I was determining how much more lift I needed in this picture, same tire as yours.
If you practice with tire irons these tire can be changed on the side of the road, a machine is not mandatory. If you have the strength or another able body to help makes it much more doable. I air my 19.5s down to 45psi on my 3500CC and my 44' trailer and have not had any problems yet and the sidewalls never get warm. I also plan on airing my 22.5s down for traveling on soft sand. I don't go fast or make quick turns and it works great. It seems like most people think its not possible without damage or breaking a bead.

 

[heimbig]

flylow4500: where did you get those adaptors?