GOVE Global Overland Vehicle Economical build.
- Thread starter heimbig
- Start date
mk216v
Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
Interesting thx. I guess if I was serious about the wheels only I'd have to push them for further info.
wheel purchase
Well I finally made up my mind. I ordered custom built 22.5x9 steel wheels from Les Schwab (a Western USA tire/wheel company). These are built by a company in Pasco, WA. Schwab will mount Michelin X MultiWay XD 295/60R22.5 M/S rated. 6 wheels/tires will be built/mounted, 4 front, 2 rear. The front can be 'flipped' and mounted in the rear (and stick out) but the rears would cause problems if mounted on the front. Rear rim to rim will be 7 feet wide, same as my bed/camper - tire at max will be about 1.2" wider. Estimated delivery is 3 weeks. The steel wheels are about 45lbs heavier than aluminum semi-truck wheels - but I'll have no adaptor.
At 36.5” tall these will fit my truck MUCH better than the 41” tall conti MPT with Hutchinson 20x11. This tire will give me an 4.29 rear axle ratio equivalent (4.88 stock).
These 'semi-truck' tires are 1" taller and about 1/2" wider than the super single 19.5 R*cks*n/Michelin tires BUT rated a 1000 lbs stronger per wheel/tire. Front will be built to same strength as rear. Rickson could have and SHOULD HAVE made that recommendation.
Of course these won't air down, and cannot be changed in the field, but should last 70,000 miles or 100's of thousands with retreads.
I originally went with Rickson because of the DOT rating – that was stupid - the government rating helped me in no way. I'm better off to be able to take any problems to the local (or any) Les Schwab for a resolution.
Well I finally made up my mind. I ordered custom built 22.5x9 steel wheels from Les Schwab (a Western USA tire/wheel company). These are built by a company in Pasco, WA. Schwab will mount Michelin X MultiWay XD 295/60R22.5 M/S rated. 6 wheels/tires will be built/mounted, 4 front, 2 rear. The front can be 'flipped' and mounted in the rear (and stick out) but the rears would cause problems if mounted on the front. Rear rim to rim will be 7 feet wide, same as my bed/camper - tire at max will be about 1.2" wider. Estimated delivery is 3 weeks. The steel wheels are about 45lbs heavier than aluminum semi-truck wheels - but I'll have no adaptor.
At 36.5” tall these will fit my truck MUCH better than the 41” tall conti MPT with Hutchinson 20x11. This tire will give me an 4.29 rear axle ratio equivalent (4.88 stock).
These 'semi-truck' tires are 1" taller and about 1/2" wider than the super single 19.5 R*cks*n/Michelin tires BUT rated a 1000 lbs stronger per wheel/tire. Front will be built to same strength as rear. Rickson could have and SHOULD HAVE made that recommendation.
Of course these won't air down, and cannot be changed in the field, but should last 70,000 miles or 100's of thousands with retreads.
I originally went with Rickson because of the DOT rating – that was stupid - the government rating helped me in no way. I'm better off to be able to take any problems to the local (or any) Les Schwab for a resolution.
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Capt Eddie
Adventurer
I do not understand something. One of the reasons for the SRW is the ability to air down when the need arises. And having the ability to service our own tires in the middle of the RTW tour. But now you can not do either. The ability to air down is my biggest reason for leaving the 19.5. We go to the beach half of all our vacations. So far I have not been stuck with the 19.5 but I think I know my limitations. A lot of the world is covered in sand.
For me the primary reason for singles is they allow me to fit 7 feet of width - a requirement. In the ideal world, tires that last more than 60,000 miles, meet gvw (for me: 14,300 lbs. rear), can air down, are hand tool mountable, and less than 40" tall - but I think there is no such a thing. Let's face it RTWs spend most of their miles on the road. 22.5" meet those requirements except air down and hand mountable. I'll carry 2 mounted spares and a 'patch' kit.
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I have super singles from 1stattack.com, with 41" MPT81s, on my 2002 F450. I have driven about 100 feet on the set-up, so not much to say other than that 1stattack has been good to work with and everything looks nice. They are changing the backspacing on my rears and have been great to work with.
Great build.
Great build.
Capt Eddie
Adventurer
If I understand you correctly. The shortest tire for a 20 inch wheel is 40 inches? I would not want to go that big on my rig. I would try to stay away from lifts. Thank you for the research.
heimbig, could you tell me what the clearance is between the cabover and truck roof? If you have any insight has to how you decided that it would be great to hear.
Your set-up seems so flexible and the cabover so close, intuitively it seems like they would make contact, but it appears that is not the case?
Thanks
Your set-up seems so flexible and the cabover so close, intuitively it seems like they would make contact, but it appears that is not the case?
Thanks
mk216v
Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
Just keep in mind that a tire is the part that you are most likely to replace on an extended trip. If you have a problem to get a tire in the US what do you think is the chance finding it in South America or Africa? In my experience it is best to stay with standard tires.
Regards from Laos, Stefan
Regards from Laos, Stefan
sg1 22.5 is probably the most universal truck size on the planet. the 'low profile' tire 295/60 22.5 is available globally, I had no problem at all finding the tire in the USA - they are everywhere. I checked Michelin and this specific tire is very common and a tire that would meet my requirements are very common. Nevertheless, I'll have 2 spares. Compared to 20" tires these are ubiquitous and should last a lot longer. I'm not aware of a global truck tire other than 11R22.5 /12R22.5 which isn't useful for very many over landers / ATW.
Capt Eddie
Adventurer
I wonder what kind of ride the low profile tire will give? Let us know.
cabover clearance above cab
brp : The camper doesn't hit the cab - so far. The clearance of the cabover is very close, 1.5" at the closest point which is the middle of the cab and the center running lights. FYI the cab running lights are not higher than the highest point of the cab, it looks like they are higher but they are not.
Recall the flatbed is hinged in the rear and when articulated it cannot get any closer where aligned with the frame, however, outside of the frame it can get closer:
This means there is some 'roll' of the camper and the outer edge of the camper can drop below the window on an extreme flex:
It is pretty weird to see the bottom edge of the camper straight out the top of the window.
This positive result was due ENTIRELY to Rob at Phoenix camper. I asked him to keep it as close as possible to the cab the only measurement I gave him was the height of the cab over the flatbed (which wasn't even started at the time) and described how I expected it to flex. His experience put this dead on. Some day I need to take it out and slow twist it, get out, and inspect if gets any closer at any point of the twist.
I intend to fill the 'gaps' to eliminate turbulent flow between cabover and cab (if possible), cab and camper/bed (top, sides, and bottom) and between camper and garage. I think about 1/4" gap would be the maximum but it won't be possible everywhere. I'm going to use 'angle' plastic glued and screwed to the camper and probably rubber / neoprene glued to that to prevent damage when my air dams inevitably touch the cab. Making this look acceptable will be a challenge.
brp : The camper doesn't hit the cab - so far. The clearance of the cabover is very close, 1.5" at the closest point which is the middle of the cab and the center running lights. FYI the cab running lights are not higher than the highest point of the cab, it looks like they are higher but they are not.
Recall the flatbed is hinged in the rear and when articulated it cannot get any closer where aligned with the frame, however, outside of the frame it can get closer:
This means there is some 'roll' of the camper and the outer edge of the camper can drop below the window on an extreme flex:
It is pretty weird to see the bottom edge of the camper straight out the top of the window.
This positive result was due ENTIRELY to Rob at Phoenix camper. I asked him to keep it as close as possible to the cab the only measurement I gave him was the height of the cab over the flatbed (which wasn't even started at the time) and described how I expected it to flex. His experience put this dead on. Some day I need to take it out and slow twist it, get out, and inspect if gets any closer at any point of the twist.
I intend to fill the 'gaps' to eliminate turbulent flow between cabover and cab (if possible), cab and camper/bed (top, sides, and bottom) and between camper and garage. I think about 1/4" gap would be the maximum but it won't be possible everywhere. I'm going to use 'angle' plastic glued and screwed to the camper and probably rubber / neoprene glued to that to prevent damage when my air dams inevitably touch the cab. Making this look acceptable will be a challenge.
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