GOVE Global Overland Vehicle Economical build.

heimbig

OnTheRoadAtLast
Hutchinson 20x11 wheel correction: One benefit is tires can be field repaired because you can unbolt the wheel to disassemble it, replace tire, then replace an ‘O'-ring between that seals the 2 part wheel. O-ring is $17.20 each not $200.00. Michelin XZL or Conti MPT 81 or Goodyear G177 are all options for OFF ROAD tires, which can be air down and you can use a beadlock. Hutchinson Internal Rubber Composite Beadlock $200 each.
 
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krl81

Adventurer
sound proofing (?)

Hi!
Just read through the thread, the build looks really nice!
I'm not sure if you already did all the sound proofing but I thought I could come with an idea/tip that I got from a car stereo builder/competitor. Mix (I'm from Sweden so I'm not sure what the exact name is) underbody rust protection, the thick kind of rubberish stuff that doesn't get completely rigid, with sand blasting sand and apply with a paintbrush or roller. Cheep and it get really rigid if put on in a good couple of layers and will not allow much vibration and other sound to come through. As I said car stereo builders use this to deaden sound and I will put it in my jimny this winter.
I hope my writing has been understandable.

And as I said in the beginning the build looks really nice, too bad that you got all the hassle with the wheels.
Hope the problem get solved quick and painless.

Kristoffer-Robin
 

incognito

Adventurer
a blog about solar, found it very interesting

http://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/

i went with 250 Watts solar, provista mppt controller,230 Ah 2 golfcart 6V bateries, . bought everything at sawtechnology.com.
600 watts converter canadian tire, one cup coffee maker 10$ wal-mart works great, led lights.

I have one more modification, but for now the LP fridge works well. i'll change for a NovaKool fridge or put only the Danfross conpressor and cold plate on mine. Had a Novakool 3800 in my Sprinter conversion before and had very low consumtion on 12v.
I've decided to stay with dually , the Bigfoot truck camper is wider than the truck and i'm more confident with dually with 4000 lbs of weight
good luck
incognito
 

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DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
Time for a cool one and a rethink?

Been following your adventures since the beginning. In your first post you set out some laudable goals, one of which was KISS. Since then, it appears that you have violated some of those goals. Scholars differ, of course, but, for example, two winches? I would argue that a round the world (as opposed to a "wheeling'") vehicle has no need for even one winch. And you're going to carry a motorcycle? And bicycles?

So you have a weight problem and thus a tire/wheel problem and all of your cures are looking ever more expensive. The last "E" of GOVE is taking a beating.

I would agree with Capt Eddie - most of the world, including the Third World runs dual rear wheels when the weights get up there.

"Sir: May I say that I am on my second expedition rig that is very similar to yours. I have had dually on both rigs as well as all of my work trucks have dually also. I would stick with what works. Duallys. I have never in all my years with duallys had a rock or stick stuck between the tires. More times then I can count, I have been able to limb home or to a better spot after having a flat on one of the rear tires. All of my truck are over 15K in weight. And the single rear gets me home. I also consider all of the highway miles that I put on the truck just for the few hundred miles of off roading. That is when I tow the Jeep. The super singles just do not make a lot of sense for the everyday explorer. But you may not be the everyday explorer type. Will all the money spent on the super singles really be worth it. Think of it this way. With the money saved, you could go more places and not have to worry about where the money is coming from or going to. It is in your pocket. Rob built my first camper. So I am like one of the family. All the respect in what you have done. Eddie

Based on Eddie's wise comments and my own experience, I would suggest that you consider:

-- Removing one or more winches. (Get a shovel and some sand ladders. Use the savings to pay the boys who will magically appear to pull you out.)

-- Running the tallest, widest dual rear wheels that you can. Lots of the California truck shops build big dualies.

Width is a valid concern, but where are you going to drive that that width is a show stopper? You are already too long for most urban parking spaces and too tall as well.

-- Desert tracks?

-- Andean trails?

-- English roads?

-- Village lanes?

The first two are routinely traveled by five ton trucks, to say nothing of the big EuroExpo cars like Unicats and Bimobils. And English roads are already a white knuckle affair in a Volkswagen, so your truck is no worse. :Wow1: No camper is going to get downtown in Europe. Since you already have the motorcycle and bicycles, take advantage of them.

If Shachagra can make the trip that they did with dual rear wheels and dual rear axles, you should be fine.

Best wishes!
 

shachagra

Adventurer
I am with Diplostrat on the dual wheels. I looked a super singles, not sure why now, I think it was because like you I had read that rocks got stuck between the tires. We did the trip without a dedicated spare because I had 4 of them mounted already. Shachagra had a lot of extra weight capacity, 33K on a 52K chassis. She could have run a long time with multiple flat tires. Never had to test the theory thankfully.
 

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
Size(s) Matters

Least my post be construed as critical or not helpful, some small news you can use.

When designing a vehicle for long term Third World use, these numbers are worth considering:

-- The most common tire size out there is 7.50x16 (AKA 235/85x16). This is the old Land Rover/Land Cruiser size tire, commonly 6 ply or more, and often mounted on a split rim. Probably too small for your truck.

-- The next is 9.00x16. Rarer, often mounted on the old Dodge Power Wagon and still much used.

-- Most Japanese trucks sold in the Third World mount a 9.00x20 tire. (Descended, I believe, from the old US truck size.) These might work on your Ford 550.

Of course, another alternative is to simply run the size that you like best and arrange for a shipment to/or purchase in a more developed country at the appropriate time. (I actually prefer this option.)

Again, best wishes and safe travels.
 

heimbig

OnTheRoadAtLast
comments about comments super singles, KISS and GOVE DiploStrat shachagra Capt Eddie

I really appreciate the input from seasoned travelers - readers should listen and weigh (pardon the pun) their options carefully.
DUALS:
As diplostrat said “super singles just do not make a lot of sense for the everyday explorer” I agree, and I may not be a typical explorer since I expect to go off the beaten path more than most AND want to fit in a shipping container. The shipping container forces certain concessions IN PARTICULAR a 7' wide bed which makes duals on a BAT truck less suitable. Then add my wife's statement “rear wheels sticking out past the bed is not acceptable”. Ok, thanks dear, Got it.
Weight:
I believe with an all-aluminum bed and frame and bumper and fuel tanks I may have saved 1500 lbs or so. Less weight with same strength is always better, but it isn't saving enough to allow light truck tires. I'd still need 19.5 dual or super singles PLUS the aluminum would have cost a LOT more. Additionally, finding someone to repair aluminum globally will be much more difficult than welding steel (which I can find and can do myself) so I don't see aluminum in my case as worth it. Again, if I were staying in NA, aluminum would make more sense.
Winches:
I've already used the winches, which add 350lbs to the truck (including the 4/0 copper wire) so maybe I am not the typical explorer. There is a lot of other weight for other extraction gear which I will itemize later. And front AND rear winches?? IMO, a tactful retreat is more valuable than ultimate ‘get me through anything' advance. It just doesn't add that much to the total weight or cost.
KISS:
This was a big project, and while many of my choices might appear to not comply with KISS method, the KISS method was always in my head while contemplating my options. I just hope this blog can help others KISS it.
GOVE:
The E in GOVE, ok DiploStrat got me. I wondered how long it would take. Economical depends on what you compare it to. The BUBB - Big Ugly Budget Build will be very functional and much more economical than GOVE. Both, I believe, are economical builds in their own way. So for me, GOVE is economical compared to Hackney's BEV, XP campers, EarthRoamer, or GXV. If I had the money I might have bought one of those commercial American alternatives and we seriously considered ER, GXV, Sportsmobile and others.
 
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Capt Eddie

Adventurer
One silly question? Can the outside wheels be taken off and loaded under the truck when the time comes to load the truck in a container?
 

heimbig

OnTheRoadAtLast
the outside wheel can be taken off for container loading, but I'm too tall overall to fit in a container anyway. So I'm building aluminum wheel disks just for loading in a container.
 

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
My Tiger is running heavy, so I feel your pain. I cannot find any 4,000 lb. wheels. ;-(

I would have gone with dual rear wheels in a heartbeat except, exactly as in your case, I would not have gained any camper space, only a blister on each side. I would have lived with the extra width gladly if it would have brought a wider camper.
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
Fantastic thread Bruce, I'm still reading it all.

Hutchinson 20x11 wheel correction: One benefit is tires can be field repaired because you can unbolt the wheel to disassemble it, replace tire, then replace an ‘O'-ring between that seals the 2 part wheel. O-ring is $17.20 each not $200.00. Michelin XZL or Conti MPT 81 or Goodyear G177 are all options for OFF ROAD tires, which can be air down and you can use a beadlock. Hutchinson Internal Rubber Composite Beadlock $200 each.

I have a set of 16x7.5 Hutchinson's on my G and while I also originally considered field repair a plus, after watching my wheel/tire guy(Hutchinson dealer) try to get the outside ring to secure onto the wheel barrel(took his wheel mounting machine and 2 guys--the ring just kept walking up and he couldn't get a nut onto a stud to start the process; there are special mounting tools/fixtures like ORC in Germany has to easily fasten together the ring and barrel), I couldn't see any straightforward way to unbolt/bolt them myself in the field. The amount of tools listed in the Hutchinson literature is crazy. Just perhaps something to research more and think about...

-Jeremy
 
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mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
Wheels and tires for a loaded (2005 and later) Ford F550 (same wheels for 2008-up Dodge 4500/5500 and Sterling Bullet)
I read a bunch of blogs, did lots of internet research, called several wheel companies and adaptor builders. Here is my results.
My truck wheel ‘monolog’
Stock Aluminum dually. Has a lot going for it. Plenty strong, very light front, similar weight to super single in rear. With different tires, good traction. The stock wheels (6.00”) are too narrow for anything bigger than 225x70 tires. The factory Ford dually is aluminum outer, steel inner wheel. The wheels are polished one side, rear polished inside, and front on the outside.

5 factors (in order) motivate me to get rid of the factory dually:

  1. They are too wide and stick out 5” past my 7’ wide bed.
  2. I bought truck with 4.88 rear end ratio which is too low. From the beginning I’d planned on bigger tires to get the effective ratio to 4.10 to 4.30.
  3. They provide no extra clearance for the axles.
  4. The off-road use of dually is not recommended due to rocks and sticks getting picked up between them and rubbing a hole in the sidewall or causing other damage.
  5. The 19.5 tires are ‘regional’ type (only type available), and mine are all 6 steer tires (Conti HSR)
19.5 custom steel Rickson, my initial purchase. (If you can trust the build, you cannot trust the builder) does deliver 19.5 steel wheels with custom outsets (allowing fairly precise setting of front/rear wheels) but that do not meet the GVW of the vehicle. If you are careful with your design load front vs rear you might be ok. The front wheel should not be used as spares for the rears as Rickson recommend to me, the front wheels are rated 4000 lbs each but the rear requires 7,350 EACH so not even close. Rickson rear rated for 6395 so doesn’t meet OEM 7,350. The front wheel completely failed and fell apart after 4000, mostly highway, miles.
Driving experience with Rickson and 285/70R19.5. Smooth highway ride, seemed rough on 4x4 trail compared with factory setup. The Rickson solution definitely had ‘tail wag’ (feels like the rear is pushing you left and right) on the highway. I have the factory duals back on and there is very little tail wag.
My rear mounted Michelin XDE2+ did get pretty warm on the highway. The steer XZE2+ mounted on front didn’t heat up – of course they had MUCH less weight on them.
Rickson might be ok if your GVW was way under the F550 19,500. I would not recommend Rickson for anyone but especially not for a loaded F550.
19.5 Hutchinson 2 part bolt together 19.5X8.25 4.33 offset. Load rated 6830 lb @ 120 psi. This works great in the front and in the rear if you have an 8’ bed, but I’m at 7’ wide. These wheels would stick out as much as stock dually. If mounted like an inner wheel of dually then it isn’t even 7’ wide. Unlike the 20x11 Hutchinson there is not an inner ‘disk’ that allows you to change the outset. So, while a great option, it won’t work for me. BTW, there lots of tire choices including a much stronger HSR/HDR Conti 305/70R19.5 but unfortunately no off road and no construction (on/off) tires that I could find.
Firematic 19.5 Steel wheels not much information on their web site but they look sturdy and I’ve emailed for more info.

22.5 Semi-truck wheels

. Alcoa and Accuride build the perfect solution (IMHO) 22.5x9 wheel rated at 10,000 lbs with 3.12 inset (this is a small super single and cannot be used as a dually). When mounted with low profile 295/60 they are only 1” or 2” larger diameter than 295R70/19.5. The center ‘disk’ is about 1” thick. They are very cheap ~$300. Two problems: they do not direct bolt to F550 and the location of 550 lug holes (225mm Bolt Circle) is exactly where the 22.5 hub hole (220mm) is. Potential work arounds:

  1. An adaptor plate that bolts to wheel and separately to the truck lugs, somehow EarthRoamer does use them, but I note their 22.5 wheel is VERY wide on the truck - probably needed to build a sufficiently strong adaptor plate. (I emailed ER about their adaptors and they didn’t get back to me, their mount is way too wide for me so I didn’t pursue it). No one builds a commercial solution that I could find. A build-it-yourself solution is beyond what I’d do because I have no good way to test it.
  2. A second mount method would allow direct bolt (sort of): Machine an aluminum ‘donut’ and press fit it in the larger 22.5 hub hole (220mm), the donut would have the required 170.1 mm hub hole for the Ford. Then build a ½ or ¾ inch steel plate with machined bolt holes for 550 to cover the whole thing. BUT with 10 lug 550 and 10 lug 22.5 holes being right next to each other this might weaken the wheel too much. A blank (which can be ordered from Accuride, I verified this) would address the 2 sets of lug holes. BUT the hub hole is ALREADY in the blank and is bigger than 170.1mm. An Accuride blank simply has no lug holes. So: build a donut, press fit, drill lug holes and build a cover plate, MIGHT work. Still the wheel is .980" thick + .75” steel plate, lugs are only 2” long so still a problem. Seems like one of the adaptor builders could acquire the ‘blanks’, build a donut and clamping plate and replace the factory lugs with longer lugs. And do some testing. I think there would be a big demand. However, there are too many variables for me to pursue this. Maybe this is a job for Super-Hackney or one of those other crazy skilled people on expeditionportal.
20” custom Rickson wheels (if you trust Rickson and can tolerate the bad business practices) would be another option and this is what Gary Wescott (Turtle expedition) currently uses with Michelin XZLs. Front and rear are different but I believe could be mounted in either location. Rickson web site says nothing about this option and I couldn’t determine if front and rear are different build strength. The Turtle is about 3,000 lbs lighter than my truck.
20x11 Hutchinson 3 part bolt together. Rated at 6779 at 95psi. But still doesn’t match factory GVW of 7,350. A really great option, strong wheel, strong tires, outsets that you can choose. Insanely expensive wheel. Can be installed without a truck lift (important to me) - just need bigger wheel well (Gary Wescott did this). One benefit is tires can be field repaired because you can unbolt the wheel to disassemble it, replace tire, then replace an ‘O’-ring between that seals the 2 part wheel. O-ring is $17.20 a each. Michelin XZL or Conti MPT 81 or Goodyear G177 are all options for OFF ROAD tires, which can be air down and you can use a beadlock. Hutchinson Internal Rubber Composite Beadlock $200 each. However, I do not want off-road tires mostly because they are only good for 40,000 miles or so. If I go with 20x11 I’m hoping to acquire Continental HDC 12x20, see tire discussion below.
Accuride bolt together aluminum wheels I verified by email that they no longer make them.
Other manufacturers: Stockton Wheel of California I’ve read lots of blog reports of cracked wheels. Les Schwabb (western USA tire and wheel company) has custom wheels built in Pasco, WA these are agricultural wheels and not DOT approved, I’ve not read any user reviews, they were more expensive than Rickson and if you ask for DOT approved wheel they order it from Rickson. http://advancewheel.com/ Agricultural and Industrial wheels.

My truck tire ‘monolog’
The 4 primary types of commercial truck tires.

  • Long range – Bus, highway semi-truck, RV. Extremely long life. Continental=’L’, Michelin=’U’ or ‘A’. Requires a machine to remove/install tire.
  • Regional – Delivery, Semi-truck, heavy and medium duty truck. Rough roads, gravel, often mud + snow rated. Not deep lugged. Very long life Continental=’R’, Michelin=’E’. Requires a machine to remove/install tire.
  • On/Off road – Designed for construction, logging, mines, etc. Continental=’C’, Michelin=’Y’ Long Life. Designed to be field repaired (tire can be removed/installed with hand tools)
  • Off Road – Though legal on roads they are designed as off road first. Continental=’O’ ‘MPT (MultiPurposeTire)’, Michelin=’L’. Short Life, these are soft tires that have the BIG advantage of allowing air down. Tire can be removed/installed with hand tools.
There are subcategories: Steer: (all position) Continental=’S’, Michelin=’Z’. Drive: Continental=’D’, Michelin=’D’ (drive are often Mud+Snow rated), also there are Trailer and Special Winter tires.
Design issues for me:


  • Maximum fully loaded and fueled truck will weigh: Front 7200 (exceeds factory GVW of 7000) Rear 12,200 (below Factory rear GVW of 14,700). Overall rated GVW=19,500.
  • I prefer minimum modification of front wheel well and no lift other than the factory 2” lift.
  • 19.5”, and low profile 22.5” would work great in the front. 20x11 require significant front wheel well modification.
  • Though preferred, there is no way to have the rear wheels track directly behind the front because I have a 7’ wide bed and I don’t want any more than a 2 or 3 inches of tire sticking out past the camper.
  • 19.5” 35” tall tires require wider wheels and slightly less offset in the front to achieve clearance for turning. Low profile 22.5” 37” tall may require a bit less offset, which you’ll get with 22.5x9.00.
  • 20x11 41” tall and a bit wider, require that the wheel be pushed wider (less offset) in order to steer.
  • Prefer no taller equivalent axle ratio than 4.00

See tire chart:
Revs/mile
Equivalent Axle ratio
647
4.88
Stock what I have
587
4.43
574
4.33
569
4.29
545
4.11
4.10 is the Highest gear ratio you can order a 550. Allows for 18,500 lbs of towing, which I won't be doing.
512
3.86
500
3.77
493
3.72
488
3.68
466
3.51

My Rear Width issues:
8’=96”
7’=84”
Truck bed is 84” and I don’t want tires sticking out more than 2 or 3 inches.
Camper is 85”
Stock dually
94
Hutchinson 20x11 recommended rear
95.25
Hutchinson 20x11 Front Wheel mounted bell in, same orientation as front wheel
83.75
Hutchinson 20x11 Front Wheel mounted bell ‘out’, like an outside dually (not sure if this is permitted)
89.75
Hutchinson 19.5x8.25 w/ 4.3 offset ‘bell’ out
95.3
Hutchinson 19.5x8.25 w/ 4.3 offset ‘bell’ in like an inside dually
76.39

Here are my top contenders for my application (all are regroovable)

  1. Hutchinson 20x11 with Continental HDC or HDC1 12R20.
    Should be more stable on highway than off-road tires or 285 70R19.5
    An on/off road construction tire with high mileage.
    Equivalent Axle ratio: about 3.7
  2. Eliminated, these are Rickson: Firematic 19.5x9.75 with Continental HDR 305/70R19.5. Firematic says the IROK tire they offer is great off road but expect 20,000 miles.
    still researching this option but looks good.
    Equivalent Axle ratio: about 4.3
  3. Hutchinson 20x11 with Continental MPT 12.5R20 or Michelin XZL or Goodyear G177.
    From what I’ve read in several blogs these last 35,000 to 45,000 miles, are regroovable, but no one regrooves them.
    A stand by option, known to work, and available globally.
    Equivalent Axle ratio: about 3.8
    Can be aired down
  4. Hutchinson 19.5x8.25 Continental HDR 305/70R19.5
    Depending on which way I mount them either too wide or too narrow for 7’ bed.
    Equivalent Axle ratio: 4.30
  5. Stock wheels, Dually, But with Continental HDR 225 70R 19.5. Drive M+S rated tires
    Sticks out 5” on each side of 7’ bed.
    Equivalent Axle ratio: 4.88
A couple really big unknowns: The Continental HDC 12 R 20 is designed for 8.25 or 9” rim but the Hutchinson rim is 11” wide, will this combination work? Is this tire designed for drop center wheels?

Anything other than stock makes the rig too tall to fit in a shipping container – I didn’t expect this. SO, I plan to build 1” thick, and tall enough to provide axle clearance, solid, all aluminum, no tire, bolt-on wheel used exclusively to load the truck in a shipping container. OK, I agree that sounds weird. But any shipping requires preparation, and though odd it should work. Comments, ideas, questions?

I just spoke with my Hutchinson dealer today on the 20x11 military beadlocks, and they're ~$2500/corner for the entire wheel/adapter/beadlock/o-ring setup, BUT that includes the Conti MPT-81 tire too, mounted&balanced on the wheel. Hutchinson doesn't offer the military wheels any other way apparently other than mounted on tires, as that's how they ship them to the military.

Just a confirmation for your wheel decision...
 

heimbig

OnTheRoadAtLast
mk216v: Hutchinson 20" wheels with conti MPT tires is their standard but you can definitely order them without tires. I have a price quotes with Michelins mounted and with nothing mounted.

I've given up on 20" wheel with 41" tall (a bit too tall for me) 'low mileage' off-road tires. Everything is a compromise so if I can get 305/70R19.5 tire from conti or Michelin then I'll go with Hutchinson 19.5" wheels. They have the big disadvantage for me of sticking out as far as duals, but I'm afraid there is no perfect solution. The Hutchinson 19.5 is as strong as their 20" and rated stronger than Rickson (which is meaningless in Rickson's case). I just have to convince my wife that it will be ok for rear wheels that stick out.

I contacted Earthroamer today and they do not sell their adaptors for 22.5 wheels, it isn't a direct Bolt-on solution anyway (I think you have to drive out the factory studs and re-install them 'backwards' through the adaptor, maybe an Earthroamer owner can verify this). For me ~37" tires on 22.5 or 19.5 wheels that result in mounted width of 7' and load rating close to 6800 lbs would be ideal but this is not available to mere mortals.

ALSO, the 16x7.5 Hutchinson/rock monster wheels are completely different than the 20" wheels, which are definitely field repairable. The 19.5 I'm little unclear if they are field repairable (if not field repairable I'll buy 2 spares wheels/tires, if they are I'll have 1 spare wheel 2 spare tires. The 19.5" are not rock monster wheels.
 
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