cellularsteve2
Adventurer
Just found this thread. Very cool. Subscribed.
GOVE Global Overland Vehicle Economical build.
- Thread starter heimbig
- Start date
mog
Kodiak Buckaroo
Just a heads up. I've heard doing it that way if you keep the factory tank filled (topped up) via the aux tank the truck's computer will 'error message' if it goes for a long time without seeing a drop in fuel level. You have to use say a 1/4 tank from the factory tank, then fill from the aux, and continue with that drop and fill cycle. An always topped up tank is the issue.
BTW great thread, you have a very well thought out plan. It is also it is interest how the Ford added the double frame. You can't go wrong with 'factory' in that case (let those Ford engineers earn their salary).
I look forward to your progress.
You've clearly done a bunch of research and thinking about this build, so I'm wondering what thoughts you have on the issue of being unable to find ultra low sulphur diesel, when abroad?
I have read (admittedly anecdotal accounts) that this is a potential concern when taking newer DPF/urea equipped motors, sold for our US market, over seas ... particularly to the developing world, where the fuel may not be subject to the same levels of refinement or processing.
If it's something you've already addressed; my apologies, I'll have to go back and re-read those bits. If you'd like to just point to external links that go through the info, that's fine too.
I've been following this build, as it's always interesting to see someone's thought process as they lay out a design and bring it to fruition ... so kudos to you for following through; and I look forward to seeing the rest of the build (and subsequent trips) come together.
I have read (admittedly anecdotal accounts) that this is a potential concern when taking newer DPF/urea equipped motors, sold for our US market, over seas ... particularly to the developing world, where the fuel may not be subject to the same levels of refinement or processing.
If it's something you've already addressed; my apologies, I'll have to go back and re-read those bits. If you'd like to just point to external links that go through the info, that's fine too.
I've been following this build, as it's always interesting to see someone's thought process as they lay out a design and bring it to fruition ... so kudos to you for following through; and I look forward to seeing the rest of the build (and subsequent trips) come together.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
Looking good!
Diesel Particulate filter delete options.
For now I’m leaving the DPF in place but will remove it when I head overseas/Mexico. I’ll keep the parts so that when I come back they could be reinstalled. I’ll remove the exhaust portions of the pollution controls, but may leave the DPF fluid tank on the truck. The engine itself doesn’t care about high / low sulfur fuel and Ford will build the truck specifically for export that will run the high sulfur diesel.
When I ordered the truck you only needed to sign a sheet that said you were going to use the truck for off-road racing and you could get the DPF delete codes from outfits like H&S Performance. HOWEVER, since then the rules have changed and you have to get a permit from the EPA before H&S Performance will send you the codes. In some ways it is better because one of the permitted justifications for wanting to do a DPF delete is that you are taking the vehicle to country that doesn’t have ULS Diesel. Assuming they will grant me the ‘permit’ I’m happier with a legal solution. The process might be simpler through 3rd parties.
See High Sulfur Calibration page at: http://www.hsperformance.com/highsulfur/
For now I’m leaving the DPF in place but will remove it when I head overseas/Mexico. I’ll keep the parts so that when I come back they could be reinstalled. I’ll remove the exhaust portions of the pollution controls, but may leave the DPF fluid tank on the truck. The engine itself doesn’t care about high / low sulfur fuel and Ford will build the truck specifically for export that will run the high sulfur diesel.
When I ordered the truck you only needed to sign a sheet that said you were going to use the truck for off-road racing and you could get the DPF delete codes from outfits like H&S Performance. HOWEVER, since then the rules have changed and you have to get a permit from the EPA before H&S Performance will send you the codes. In some ways it is better because one of the permitted justifications for wanting to do a DPF delete is that you are taking the vehicle to country that doesn’t have ULS Diesel. Assuming they will grant me the ‘permit’ I’m happier with a legal solution. The process might be simpler through 3rd parties.
See High Sulfur Calibration page at: http://www.hsperformance.com/highsulfur/
SChandler
Adventurer
What are the EPA requirements for bringing the truck back into the US following removal of the DPF system for use of the truck with high sulfur diesel? I've read that US-built vehicles (model year 2007 and later) that are intended for the export market are not allowed to be re-imported into the US after being exported (due to emissions systems not meeting Federal standards). I'm assuming you would like to bring the truck back to the US, eventually, so I was wondering what paperwork is required to do that.
plainjaneFJC
Deplorable
Congratulations for living your dream out. Can't wait to see the finished product.
A few thoughts on your electrical and water storage needs. I've got both a sailboat and a 4wd campervan; the following are based on my actual usage:
1) Have you considered going with lithium (LiFePO4) batteries instead of AGM? According to a bunch of folks on cruisersforum the cost of the lithiums is now comparable to the AGMs on a full lifecycle basis, and the lithiums reduce the battery weight by over 50%.
2) I've got 160 watts of solar on both my sailboat and van and that's enough to run my fridge, lights, fan, etc essentially indefinitely as long as it stays sunny. You can still find the uni-solar flexible glue-down panels on ebay, and you can walk around on them. An MPPT type controller will really help if the panels are partially shaded, and solar is way cheaper these days compared to some of the number I've seen listed on this thread. My system with two 80 watt panels plus an MPPT controller cost just under $300 on ebay. The engel type fridges use considerably less energy than most RV style fridges. If you can reduce consumption then you won't need to run the generator for anything except AC usage.
3) I carry 50 gallons of water on my sailboat, and that's enough to last 2 people 3 weeks+, based on showering in salt water and rinsing in fresh.
1) Have you considered going with lithium (LiFePO4) batteries instead of AGM? According to a bunch of folks on cruisersforum the cost of the lithiums is now comparable to the AGMs on a full lifecycle basis, and the lithiums reduce the battery weight by over 50%.
2) I've got 160 watts of solar on both my sailboat and van and that's enough to run my fridge, lights, fan, etc essentially indefinitely as long as it stays sunny. You can still find the uni-solar flexible glue-down panels on ebay, and you can walk around on them. An MPPT type controller will really help if the panels are partially shaded, and solar is way cheaper these days compared to some of the number I've seen listed on this thread. My system with two 80 watt panels plus an MPPT controller cost just under $300 on ebay. The engel type fridges use considerably less energy than most RV style fridges. If you can reduce consumption then you won't need to run the generator for anything except AC usage.
3) I carry 50 gallons of water on my sailboat, and that's enough to last 2 people 3 weeks+, based on showering in salt water and rinsing in fresh.
mog
Kodiak Buckaroo
susswein, that is some very interesting information. I think I will need to reevaluate my aversion to solar based on that info. Thanks
susswein:
(LiFePO4) batteries instead of AGM- interersting alternative and 1/2 the weight per amp-hour, an advantage, but compared to AGM still 2 or 3 times more expensive per amp-hour (than the already expensive AGM) Compared to AGM the LiFePO4 are slower to charge yet can have their amps pulled out faster and it isn't terrible to do a 100% discharge - a very good thing. You'ld probably need custom charge controllers or custom programming - too.
solar discussion - it doesn't pay for most overland -see previous posts. $300 for MPPT and 160 watts you either got incredibly cheap or used. A decent MPPT charge controller is going to be at least $150.
no saltwater in the desert so i need more water. I've car camped in Baja on less than gallon per day and bath in the ocean. The gallon per day per person seems to be a good general rule of thumb. so 50 gallons on the ocean is doable but you have lots of water around you and can create your own fresh water pretty easily.
(LiFePO4) batteries instead of AGM- interersting alternative and 1/2 the weight per amp-hour, an advantage, but compared to AGM still 2 or 3 times more expensive per amp-hour (than the already expensive AGM) Compared to AGM the LiFePO4 are slower to charge yet can have their amps pulled out faster and it isn't terrible to do a 100% discharge - a very good thing. You'ld probably need custom charge controllers or custom programming - too.
solar discussion - it doesn't pay for most overland -see previous posts. $300 for MPPT and 160 watts you either got incredibly cheap or used. A decent MPPT charge controller is going to be at least $150.
no saltwater in the desert so i need more water. I've car camped in Baja on less than gallon per day and bath in the ocean. The gallon per day per person seems to be a good general rule of thumb. so 50 gallons on the ocean is doable but you have lots of water around you and can create your own fresh water pretty easily.
interesting project for sure.
For the travel plans that you have, a NEW truck of any kind is a poor foundation IMO... Buy a 10-15 year old Superduty, save 40 grand or more. Very easy to do things like frame extensions or reinforcements, heavier axles with lockers, etc. No concern with emissions/EPA crap, fancy electrics, etc. The new trucks are nice, just too many drawbacks for a ROTW rig IMO....
You also mention being in other parts of the world where roads are narrow and quarters are tight, but you are building a vehicle that has something in the neighbourhood of 13-14 feet of cab and hood before you even get to the living quarters. Seems like a lot of wasted space with a long wheelbase and/or long over hang to hinder manoeuverability.
just my 3 cents.
For the travel plans that you have, a NEW truck of any kind is a poor foundation IMO... Buy a 10-15 year old Superduty, save 40 grand or more. Very easy to do things like frame extensions or reinforcements, heavier axles with lockers, etc. No concern with emissions/EPA crap, fancy electrics, etc. The new trucks are nice, just too many drawbacks for a ROTW rig IMO....
You also mention being in other parts of the world where roads are narrow and quarters are tight, but you are building a vehicle that has something in the neighbourhood of 13-14 feet of cab and hood before you even get to the living quarters. Seems like a lot of wasted space with a long wheelbase and/or long over hang to hinder manoeuverability.
just my 3 cents.
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I have never really understood the 13-14' of cab equaling wasted space argument, on an f550 the front wheels are roughly 35" from the from bumper, on a cabover, I'm going to guess around 18", difference of 18" add another 18" or so for the rest of the engine bay, bring use to about 3' of wasted space. there on back i wouldn't consider it wasted space, You can have a up to 6' of living space above the cab, not really on a cab over. He can use his crew cab as storage or extra seat. On a cab over you have to make a crew cab. Then what really make me think the 3' isn't wasted space is in an accident, I don't know about you but I would rather be as far away from the front bumper as possible....IMHO
On another note Turning diameter of a Fuso fg4x4 regular cab (seats 3) is 44.2' with a 13-15' box on the other hand
Turning diameter of an f550 reg cab (seats 3) with 168" wheelbase, that gives it 11" of frame behind the cab is of 42.3 so the same size truck with about the same camper space (bed over cab vs in box) the f550 has a better turning diameter.
And on a crew cab f550 with 200" wb is 57.3' with 11' behind the cab compared to, If you could get one, a fuso canter crew cab 4x4 has a turning diameter of 48.9' with 10.8' behind the cab
Turning diameter of an f550 reg cab (seats 3) with 168" wheelbase, that gives it 11" of frame behind the cab is of 42.3 so the same size truck with about the same camper space (bed over cab vs in box) the f550 has a better turning diameter.
And on a crew cab f550 with 200" wb is 57.3' with 11' behind the cab compared to, If you could get one, a fuso canter crew cab 4x4 has a turning diameter of 48.9' with 10.8' behind the cab
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