Gun Safes

Honu

lost on the mainland
Even a cheap safe is better than no safe. Best to put it in a corner of a closet and bolt it down.In as many directions as possible. Back, Bottom and at least one side. Position it so that clothing and such hides it. Tuck it into a corner so that the bad guys would have a heck of a time getting a prybar any where near the door and then build sheves to fill any space between it and other wall. All these things make it less obvious and harder for you to lose weapons. Bad guys are usually in a hurry. So anything to slow them down and make them work for it is a good thing.

just to say read this again :) once you position your safe bolting it down so they cant throw it on the ground to pry it will help a lot :)

basically everything thats said :) bolted in a closet makes it really hard to get to
 

Corey

OverCamping Specialist
OK, as seen by my other thread in this section for getting a feeler on a concealed Glock to carry, I put money down today to hold a Glock 30SF for me, as the store sold out this week.
I was going to go home with one today after work, but they sold out earlier in the week.
When they get it in I will pick out a holster and have some Truglo sights installed like I have on my Glock 21SF.

Now for an update on my safe.
As seen earlier in this thread I was not happy with the light pucks with the motion sensors in them as the light output was not great, and you have to wave your hands every 30 seconds or so.

I bought the Executive Light Kit from lightmysafe.com and it showed up today and I wasted no time digging into installing it.
http://www.lightmysafe.com/
http://www.lightmysafe.com/Light_Kits.html
Also seen on the above page is the combination light, I got the one in gold.
It is motion sensor turned on, and does a good job at lighting up the dial in total darkness.

I went with the Executive kit as it has five light bars instead of three, much better.
The nice thing about this kit is that you can add an indefinite amount of additional light bars for $30 each if you want even more light.

Start out by feeding the plug from the pack that plugs into your wall or powerstrip through the rear of the safe.
I had to drill out the fireboard a little more for the plug to fit in, and I had to tape the end to the drill bit and pull it in from the rear.

You then plug that plug into a small box with Velcro on it that has the first 3' wire that feeds the first light bar.
That box also has the door sensor on it that turns the lights on/off with a magnet that you mount to the door.
When the circuit detects the magnet, the juice is cut off.
Open the door so the magnet is not present, and the lights come on.

I put one light bar on top to shine on the Glock, and two light bars each on the sides.
Left side I had to pull the lights out a little further, as the doors locking bolts were hitting the lights.
On the right side the light bars are tucks all the way into the corner.

They had a sale on the AC model, so I got the Executive kit for $150 even.
The lights are a little on the expensive side, but after seeing videos on YouTube of ones with the LED rope lights in them, these are much brighter and easier to install.
It is all plug & play, so it was worth the money for this well designed and very illuminating kit.

The light bars have Velcro on the rear of them, so installing them was very easy.
I was a little leery of just Velcro as those light pucks I had in previously were not that great at sticking to the carpet, but then they weight a lot more than the light bars do since they have two AA batteries each in them.

It is much brighter in person and looks great!
The pictures do not do it justice.

Kit all laid out

6.jpg


The combination LED light

7.jpg


Lights unplugged from the powerstrip

8.jpg


Lights plugged in and activated when the door opens

9.jpg


10.jpg


Spare ammo (45 ACP and 5.56 NATO) and cleaning kit on bottom of floor in tacklebox

11.jpg


Top two shelves showing the Glock 21SF, spare magazines in the shooters/range bag pouch, misc stuff

12.jpg
 

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