HELP: I Bought an Overweight Overlander

[shade]

I'd also suggest having a look at cab and radiator mount bushings - given the age they're probably in need of replacement, but they're cheap. Wheel bearings too. U Joints perhaps.

Those are good items to check. If it has a pair of batteries stuffed in the OE location, it's almost assured that the radiator mount bushings are toast, and the core support structure may be warped. Energy Suspension makes a replacement kit for a variety of bushes that have likely perished.

I'll add that the entire front suspension should be inspected - ball joints, bushings, tie rod ends all wear out eventually, and if those are the OEM parts, they don't allow greasing, which can lead to more wear than a serviceable part.

Also, all fluids are suspect unless you know they've been changed. ATF will obviously be taken care of shortly, but engine coolant, power steering fluid, gear lube in the transfer case & differentials, and brake fluid. Brake fluid is often overlooked, leading to poor performance, corrosion in the system, and expensive repairs.

 

[DaveInDenver]

LOL, I have Energy Suspension radiator core supports and my left size inner fender is still drooping from the weight of a dual group 25/35 in the stock location. Thats yet another known issue, the sheet metal starting to fatigue and tear from the battery weight. But that's been true for decades. My 1991 has starting to show evidence of the stock location taking a beating. That's also true when people put dual batteries in Land Cruisers. Just being so far out front it's inevitable.

 

[shade]

LOL, I have Energy Suspension radiator core supports and my left size inner fender is still drooping from the weight of a dual group 25/35 in the stock location. Thats yet another known issue, the sheet metal starting to fatigue and tear from the battery weight. But that's been true for decades. My 1991 has starting to show evidence of the stock location taking a beating. That's also true when people put dual batteries in Land Cruisers. Just being so far out front it's inevitable.

I have a single G31 in the stock location now, but once I have my house system installed (battery in cab), I'm going back to a smaller start battery. I may even relocate a smaller battery to the passenger side, near the firewall. A-TRAC means there's no ABS plumbing to interfere, and that looks like a sturdier spot.

 

[tacollie]

My dad gave me some advice when I. bought my first truck. 1. Ask about maintenance records. 2. Have a mechanic look at it. 3. Cross your fingers it stays together!

It sucks you have to put a rear end and a transmission in your truck. You're still in for less money and time than if you built from a stock truck. Things happen.

 

[CampStewart]

Wheel bearings on later model trucks with semi floating axles seem to have become a common wear item no one should be surprised when they need replacing. A bent axle on a truck used off road should be expected at some point. A automatic trans needing a rebuild after being used off road and overloaded should be expected particularly if aux coolers have not been installed. More so if the truck was not regeared when larger tires were installed. I think it us unfair that the OP identified the seller when calling the vehicle a lemon, if the wheel bearings were going when he purchased it he should have been able to hear them. 3500 miles later the seller has no responsibility. OP needs to look in the mirror and stop whining.

Someone earlier in the thread advised to start out your overlanding by throwing a tent and sleeping bag in the car and going camping. That should be the cornerstone for everyone getting into this hobby. Far too many people have no knowledge about vehicles or the outdoors and try to make up for it by writing checks and going on an "adventure" Too many gadgets and too little basic knowledge of vehicles and the outdoor world.

 

[Ziro]

Those are good items to check. If it has a pair of batteries stuffed in the OE location, it's almost assured that the radiator mount bushings are toast, and the core support structure may be warped. Energy Suspension makes a replacement kit for a variety of bushes that have likely perished.

I'll add that the entire front suspension should be inspected - ball joints, bushings, tie rod ends all wear out eventually, and if those are the OEM parts, they don't allow greasing, which can lead to more wear than a serviceable part.

Also, all fluids are suspect unless you know they've been changed. ATF will obviously be taken care of shortly, but engine coolant, power steering fluid, gear lube in the transfer case & differentials, and brake fluid. Brake fluid is often overlooked, leading to poor performance, corrosion in the system, and expensive repairs.

Its got a single G31 battery in the stock location with a Slee holder, so it's reinforced (to some degree). front suspension is mostly aftermarket with bilsteins 5100, OME 887s, and SPC upper control arms. There was some play in passenger side stabilizer mount which I tightened up. but I'll have it all looked at while its on the lift tomorrow for the new transmission

 

[shade]

Its got a single G31 battery in the stock location with a Slee holder, so it's reinforced (to some degree). front suspension is mostly aftermarket with bilsteins 5100, OME 887s, and SPC upper control arms. There was some play in passenger side stabilizer mount which I tightened up. but I'll have it all looked at while its on the lift tomorrow for the new transmission

That Slee tray doesn't address the problem of having so much weight focused in that area. Over time, Tacomas have experienced splits in the front core support and fender liner when used hard. If you see misalignment between the hood and fender, that's a good indication that things have been moving around.

Front stabilizer end links get chewed up, as well as the bushes at the frame attachment points. Both are easy to change. Moog sells greaseable end links, and iirc, the Energy Suspension bush kit I mentioned comes with replacement bushes. Given the weight of that truck, I wouldn't recommend removing the stabilizer bar, no matter how stiff the suspension, and how much you don't drive it like a race truck (common excuses for removing it to improve off-road articulation).

SPC sells new bushes and ball joints, if you need them. Be aware that early SPC (Light Racing) UCAs had some failures, but I believe they ironed out the problems.

Another PM item is the serpentine belt and pulleys. Iirc, Rock Auto sells a replacement pulley set with bearings instead of bushes, if you find the need to replace them. If that's the OEM belt, I'd replace it now, or at least carry a spare.

If the engine bay isn't relatively clean, consider cleaning it up so it's easier to identify problems sooner than later. I hate trying to find leaks on a filthy engine, and working in a gunked up engine bay is annoying.

 

[Ziro]

Wheel bearings on later model trucks with semi floating axles seem to have become a common wear item no one should be surprised when they need replacing. A bent axle on a truck used off road should be expected at some point. A automatic trans needing a rebuild after being used off road and overloaded should be expected particularly if aux coolers have not been installed. More so if the truck was not regeared when larger tires were installed. I think it us unfair that the OP identified the seller when calling the vehicle a lemon, if the wheel bearings were going when he purchased it he should have been able to hear them. 3500 miles later the seller has no responsibility. OP needs to look in the mirror and stop whining.

Someone earlier in the thread advised to start out your overlanding by throwing a tent and sleeping bag in the car and going camping. That should be the cornerstone for everyone getting into this hobby. Far too many people have no knowledge about vehicles or the outdoors and try to make up for it by writing checks and going on an "adventure" Too many gadgets and too little basic knowledge of vehicles and the outdoor world.

Diffs were regeared to 4.56. I don't see the issue with naming the seller - I didn't blame him for anything, if you read the post I actually speak to what a solid dude I think he is, and outright said that I did not intend to out him for anything, nor did I say he was responsible for the damage. however, if he knew about an issue I believe the right thing to do would be to give me a heads up prior to me purchasing it as a courtesy (as is a requirement of posting a vehicle on ExPo if you read the "rules before you post"). Also, no need to get accusatory and assuming I'm clueless. I'm an experienced outdoorsman and I've owned off-road vehicles in the past, this is not my first. I'm simply looking for help in a tricky situation, no need to be rude.

 

[TheNatural]

That group 31 battery is going to cause some problems with the sheet metal and the support bushings over time. It's 20+lbs heavier than a 27F iirc, and the issues shade talked about start to show up on vehicles with stock size batteries eventually. But it's not as bad as the dual battery setups people put in that same corner that weigh considerably more than a G31. I want to stick either a dual setup or a G31 in mine too, but I plan to reinforce it before I add any extra weight up there.

Good advice you're getting from shade. I have the energy suspension bushings he mentioned and they're great.

 

[shade]

Diffs were regeared to 4.56. I don't see the issue with naming the seller - I didn't blame him for anything, if you read the post I actually speak to what a solid dude I think he is, and outright said that I did not intend to out him for anything, nor did I say he was responsible for the damage. however, if he knew about an issue I believe the right thing to do would be to give me a heads up prior to me purchasing it as a courtesy (as is a requirement of posting a vehicle on ExPo if you read the "rules before you post"). Also, no need to get accusatory and assuming I'm clueless. I'm an experienced outdoorsman and I've owned off-road vehicles in the past, this is not my first. I'm simply looking for help in a tricky situation, no need to be rude.

You could blunt such criticism by editing the thread title. Changing "POS" to "Worn Out" would help.

 

[calicamper]

That group 31 battery is going to cause some problems with the sheet metal and the support bushings over time. It's 20+lbs heavier than a 27F iirc, and the issues shade talked about start to show up on vehicles with stock size batteries eventually. But it's not as bad as the dual battery setups people put in that same corner that weigh considerably more than a G31. I want to stick either a dual setup or a G31 in mine too, but I plan to reinforce it before I add any extra weight up there.

Good advice you're getting from shade. I have the energy suspension bushings he mentioned and they're great.

Why not have a 2nd battery in the camper as far forward as possible? The Duel battery thing today is a bit silly given the number of power sources we have access too that serve multiple purposes and are pretty cheap. Small jump packs and solar can pretty much eliminate your stranded from dead battery concerns.

 

[shade]

Why not have a 2nd battery in the camper as far forward as possible? The Duel battery thing today is a bit silly given the number of power sources we have access too that serve multiple purposes and are pretty cheap. Small jump packs and solar can pretty much eliminate your stranded from dead battery concerns.

That can be a good location. I want to keep my bed clear, and it'll be easier to control the temp for my LFP battery in the cab, but bed mounting for a house battery is common.

OP would have some wiring to do, of course. I'd put it on the passenger side to balance the truck better.

 

[Ziro]

That Slee tray doesn't address the problem of having so much weight focused in that area. Over time, Tacomas have experienced splits in the front core support and fender liner when used hard. If you see misalignment between the hood and fender, that's a good indication that things have been moving around.

Front stabilizer end links get chewed up, as well as the bushes at the frame attachment points. Both are easy to change. Moog sells greaseable end links, and iirc, the Energy Suspension bush kit I mentioned comes with replacement bushes. Given the weight of that truck, I wouldn't recommend removing the stabilizer bar, no matter how stiff the suspension, and how much you don't drive it like a race truck (common excuses for removing it to improve off-road articulation).

SPC sells new bushes and ball joints, if you need them. Be aware that early SPC (Light Racing) UCAs had some failures, but I believe they ironed out the problems.

Another PM item is the serpentine belt and pulleys. Iirc, Rock Auto sells a replacement pulley set with bearings instead of bushes, if you find the need to replace them. If that's the OEM belt, I'd replace it now, or at least carry a spare.

If the engine bay isn't relatively clean, consider cleaning it up so it's easier to identify problems sooner than later. I hate trying to find leaks on a filthy engine, and working in a gunked up engine bay is annoying.

helpful, thanks. But first the transmission, haha

 

[CampStewart]

Diffs were regeared to 4.56. I don't see the issue with naming the seller - I didn't blame him for anything, if you read the post I actually speak to what a solid dude I think he is, and outright said that I did not intend to out him for anything, nor did I say he was responsible for the damage. however, if he knew about an issue I believe the right thing to do would be to give me a heads up prior to me purchasing it as a courtesy (as is a requirement of posting a vehicle on ExPo if you read the "rules before you post"). Also, no need to get accusatory and assuming I'm clueless. I'm an experienced outdoorsman and I've owned off-road vehicles in the past, this is not my first. I'm simply looking for help in a tricky situation, no need to be rude.

Ok I went back and re read your first post. When your axle, brakes, or transmission. or whatever locked up most people with only a bit of auto knowledge would have attempted to figure out the issue rather than rocking the vehicle back and forth to free it up and moving on. At that time it could have been brakes, bearings, diff, transfer case, transmission, I even once saw a Chevy truck with V8 stuck in its tracks due to a rope wound around the driveshaft and tangled up underneath. There are a number of simple procedures you could have done but rocking it loose and just driving away was near the bottom of the list of advisable things to do. Once underway though you could have experimented with putting the transmission and transfer case in neutral at the speed it vibrated and also applied the brakes to isolate the cause. I am not trying to be rude but claiming to be an experienced off roader or someone even mildly familiar with vehicles I would have expected you to have been more in tune with a vehicle you purchased and are driving. There should have been warning noises and unusual things happening long before things started locking up. If you are not putting in an aux filter and trans cooler in with the new transmission you are not improving the causes of the issues. and may be in fact flushing debris out of the existing trans cooler and back into the trans as soon as you start driving it. I also wouldn't consider an overloaded highly modified vehicle with 140k to be a lemon, or POS because it needed a new transmission and had a bent rear axle, items that apparantly were not beefed up with the rest of the truck and still have not been.

 

[Ziro]

That group 31 battery is going to cause some problems with the sheet metal and the support bushings over time. It's 20+lbs heavier than a 27F iirc, and the issues shade talked about start to show up on vehicles with stock size batteries eventually. But it's not as bad as the dual battery setups people put in that same corner that weigh considerably more than a G31. I want to stick either a dual setup or a G31 in mine too, but I plan to reinforce it before I add any extra weight up there.

Good advice you're getting from shade. I have the energy suspension bushings he mentioned and they're great.

for sure but no symptoms of any excessive play yet. I’ll mod it in the future though