Hey Vortec Guys! / Sierra pickup / Suburban / Yukon etc - Finally has Index!

rayra

Expedition Leader
from the forum standpoint, sure. From teh perspective of someone who's been banned more than once from various hobby forums for treading on the purveyors' toes, I don't appreciate having my work-product appropriated. So I don't use forum-provided iamge hosting. I'll maintain editorial control of my own imagery. Except when an image host decides to suicide, of course.
I'm arranging alternative image hosting right now, I'll be re-populating this and my other project topics over the next few days.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
well I've got the evap valve images back up via imgur, but really don't like it. IMGUR completely replaces your file names with randomized gibberish. So as I try to re-edit prior posts I have to scroll around in the IMGUR album to find them. They're in random order, by the new gibberish names. Not even in upload order. I've got over a 1000 photobucket images in various topics all over this board. This method isn't going to work very well.
I'm going to try and find different hosting that will keep my file names (at least as a prefix) and let me at least sort them by name to making finding them much easier to repopulate into my topics.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
topic is under slow repair. I've arranged my own web hosting to hold all my images and am editing all the image links, in small batches / page at a time. Gives me eye strain and a headache. ~1500 images and a couple dozen topics to go

eta another run at it midday, re-edited the first five pages. Really gives me a headache, bouncing around in directories, FTP, scrolling edit windows.
 
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rayra

Expedition Leader
Image links all changed in this topic, at least my posts, anyway. What a PITA. Maybe a topic an evening.

31,600
 
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rayra

Expedition Leader
interim update on the gas tank vapor issue. First fill-up after I blew out the cannister went fine. To Full without a hitch. Next two tank fillings were interrupted / pump shut off, although she was able to fill to capacity. Had her double check the math on the gallons pumped vs miles driven, still holdign to her ~15mpg average.

So I've just gone ahead and ordered the replacement cannister. Coming up on 190k mi. Sure it needs one anyway, and its the next logical part to replace..


eta sweet. Ordered 0930 Mon, got it 1600 Tues.


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rayra

Expedition Leader
Here's something else I did several months ago (eta 16!) that I apparently didn't relate here. The issue was throttle response and fine control at slow speeds. The throttle response was very poor, you'd try to give very little gas and nothing would happen, nothing, nothing, then it would surge. I'd attributed this to the computerized controls, but on further inspection I found a good bit of slack in my throttle cables, at the throttle body / plate.
There's a built-in adjustment screw on the end of the cable. The simple fix is take out the slack. Like a valve adjustment, don't make it TOO tight or you will screw things up. Just take the slack out without creating so much tension that the throttle plate moves.
The '00-'02 still have a direct cable connection from the foot pedal, you are in direct control. With a second cable to the cruise control computer actuator, which is on the firewall above the brake booster.
The '03-06 have full computer control. The gas pedal cable tells the computer the computer moves the throttle plate.

But the slack adjustment is similar on both year ranges. And with 100k++ miles, you've almost certainly got some slack in that cable. So if you find you are having some pedal control issues when rock/trail crawling, look at that first.

This cable slack can ALSO impact your top end throttle range. It's likely that giving the engine full throttle is what generates the cable slack in the first place.

Reposting this portion, text is sorta redundant


Also today's tip for improving throttle response and top end power in a 2nd/3rd/4th?-gen Vortec engine (late 90s-'02), multi-port fuel injection with fuel rails, or the 'spider' injector, or even the older TBI/throttle body injection models. These still have throttle cables connected to the throttle valve / plate. One is a direct connect to the gas pedal. It has no adjustment. The other goes to an electrical / computer box in the top corner of the engine compartment, by the brake piston / reservoir. It has a screw-in tension adjuster at the throttle valve linkage.
Upon examination I found a good bit of play in both cables. Lots of deflection before I ran out of slack. I adjusted it out of the computer throttle cable, until there was no more end play in the cable. I then improvised a solution on the pedal cable, by 'shimming' it on the quarter-arc of the linkage, using a short length of 3/16" vac hose, split on one side, so it could be wrapped around the cable. This was slid down and tucked into the pulley in such a way that it took up the slack. Things still move freely and it should take the heat. But I'll be shopping for a replacement cable.

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subengine04.jpg

subengine05.jpg
subengine06.jpg
subengine07.jpg
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
heh, yeah eventually. Wont be this weekend. Will probably overlap next. If my stubborn old man's water heater doesn't fail sooner.
 
Ut Oh I was heading home from work yesterday in the Silverado and the low engine oil level light came on. Pretty common on this truck with over 250k it has some oil consumption issues. So make it to the parts store pick up 2 quarts of oil. I know from past that it is 2 quarts low if this warning comes on. In a hurry to beat a severe storm I didn't check the dipstick. Just poured in the oil and went on my way. Well the warning stayed on, oil pressure is normal and all is fine so I figure it is just a sensor failure.

Anyone else have an oil level sensor fail? I haven't had time today to mess with but will pull the dipstick before firing it back up.

I really should pull the valve covers and oil pan. I feel for sure the oil drain back holes in the heads could use a good cleaning and the inside the valve covers and oil pan, along with a new oil pump pick up and gaskets.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
iirc there's a sensor fouling issue, back driver side top of the engine. Typically expressed as a HIGH pressure reading. That's a pretty easy swap.


If you are reading low even with a good dipstick reading, it could very well be a worn oil pump or also the o-ring on the oil pump pickup tube. That's some straightforward but tedious work. Got to loosen the front axle for clearance and pull the pan. And pull the water pump assemblage to get to the oil pump. There's pics and notes on the oil pickup tube o-ring replacement earlier in this topic.

And GM doesn't consider an LS / LM motor to have 'low oil pressure' until it's in single digits.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
sorry, missed that. First thing I'd try is check the wiring on the sensor, maybe hit the parts with some electrical contact cleaner, clean any corrosion or patina off if you can, so there's good electrical contact. I'd expect / suspect a wiring / signal fault before a sensor failure.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Got the evap cannister swap completed, got out there first thing this morning, took about 90mins of me fumbling around. There's only three bolts and 3 plastic plumbing connections. But on our '05 Tahoe it's in an awkward spot to work on, essentially right over the rear axle pumpkin / yoke. With the stab-on plastic connectors quite close to the fuel tank's metal shield. Described that crap earlier.
I'd bought the Delco / OEM part from Rockauto.com, $85. Exact match, right down to the barcode sticker.

evap15.jpg



As expected, I had a good bit of trouble trying to release the connector for the vent tube coming from the tank itself. Watched a few videos previously and adopted a method seen in more than one, which was to cut the nipple off the old cannister. Then work that severed bit out of the plumbing connector once the cannister was out of the way.

I used a hobby 'razor knife', you can find one at any crafts or model-making store. You might be able to snip it off with a large pair of dykes or a serrated steak knife or one of those handle attachments that lets you mount a hacksaw blade like a knife. It's very tight and awkward access. The razor knife makes brutally short work of it. Razor-thin blade kerf, mostly.

evap14.jpg



That little blue bit was hard to remove when moounted, as there's no real access to the sides of it in the connector shroud that fits over it. Unlike the two other larger connectors, which have large side openings which allow you to fish around and pry the stab connectors outward to release them.

Here are the two types

evap16.jpg



And here they are, reinstalled, the second time. I was so pleased with myself and eager, after getting that blue connector apart and back together, that as soon as I had the new canister mounted I stabbed it on. Unfortunately I'd got it between two other lines, instead of the lines passing above the blue vent line as in the following picture. With it passing betweem I could not get the rigid plumbing lines to reach their connection locations without a lot of prying force. So I had to back up a bit and remove the line from the vent valve and route it correctly. Which was a fortunate happenstance, because if I'd had to remove that blue connector again I would have been screwed.

evap17.jpg



And here's an overall shot, from the passenger side looking up and diagonal towards the driver side / fuel filler. The front of the vehicle is to the right of the image. The metal tray bracket that holds the cannister is held by two bolts out of frame to the right, in a sort of cantilevered mount that tilts up towards the rear.

evap18.jpg



We're heading out to Costco later today, have less than a quarter tank in it, so it will be a good test of whether we can fill the tank without interruption. They're .20-.25 cents cheaper than anywhere else around, usually, here in the State of massive fuel taxes.

www.gasbuddy.com


It really ought to be 'fixed'. The only other possible source of an early cutoff problem / vapor buildup would be if the vent tube from the tank itself (part of the fuel pump assemblage) was somehow clogged. Maybe I should have shot some compressed air into that tank vent tube while I had things apart. Don't know what sort of snorkel(?) arrangement is on the other end of that pipe, at the top of the pump assembly.

eta
It just occurred to me that I want to cut the old canister open, out of curiosity. I want to see if it is somehow clogged or broken down. Have to go fish it out of the trash.
 
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Went out this afternoon checked oil level, yep it was at the full mark, started it up and all was fine. Will keep a close eye on it. Usually takes a month or two depending on how much and how hard I drive it before showing low level. Might have been connection or due to age, some build up on sensor not allowing float to move.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
well SOB, 'worse than ever'. First time I was pumping. Got any immediate cutoff. That's sometimes happened to me in other vehicles, in very hot conditions. Reset adn started pumping again. cut off 2-3 more times. I held the bellows on the pump clear to allow vapors to escape and again it repeatedly cut off. Lots of splashy frothy noises issuing from teh filler, but no gas splashing out. Got a good run in the middle, thought 'aha, things are cooled off and flowing ok', then cutoff, cutoff, cutoff. All told at least a dozen shutoffs in the course of pumping a little over 18gals. Which by the trip odometer was about spot on, just under 16mpg.


Only thing I can figure is the vent pipe at the fuel pump mount at the top of the tank OR there's some sort of obstruction in the filler pipe. Next wrenching opportunity I'm pulling the fill pipe apart.
And it's back to digging around online for possible solutions. It's a very simple system, it shouldn't be this hard to fix it.
And I might pull the vent solenoid pipe back off and slowly ramp up some compressed air back into the system. Have to find some info on how the fuel pump assemblage is plumbed. I don't want to screw something up putting pressurized air back into it. Not at this late date. 183k+ mi. on the original pump.

"I'm terribly vexed"
 

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