Got the evap cannister swap completed, got out there first thing this morning, took about 90mins of me fumbling around. There's only three bolts and 3 plastic plumbing connections. But on our '05 Tahoe it's in an awkward spot to work on, essentially right over the rear axle pumpkin / yoke. With the stab-on plastic connectors quite close to the fuel tank's metal shield. Described that crap earlier.
I'd bought the Delco / OEM part from Rockauto.com, $85. Exact match, right down to the barcode sticker.
As expected, I had a good bit of trouble trying to release the connector for the vent tube coming from the tank itself. Watched a few videos previously and adopted a method seen in more than one, which was to cut the nipple off the old cannister. Then work that severed bit out of the plumbing connector once the cannister was out of the way.
I used a hobby 'razor knife', you can find one at any crafts or model-making store. You might be able to snip it off with a large pair of dykes or a serrated steak knife or one of those handle attachments that lets you mount a hacksaw blade like a knife. It's very tight and awkward access. The razor knife makes brutally short work of it. Razor-thin blade kerf, mostly.
That little blue bit was hard to remove when moounted, as there's no real access to the sides of it in the connector shroud that fits over it. Unlike the two other larger connectors, which have large side openings which allow you to fish around and pry the stab connectors outward to release them.
Here are the two types
And here they are, reinstalled, the second time. I was so pleased with myself and eager, after getting that blue connector apart and back together, that as soon as I had the new canister mounted I stabbed it on. Unfortunately I'd got it between two other lines, instead of the lines passing above the blue vent line as in the following picture. With it passing betweem I could not get the rigid plumbing lines to reach their connection locations without a lot of prying force. So I had to back up a bit and remove the line from the vent valve and route it correctly. Which was a fortunate happenstance, because if I'd had to remove that blue connector again I would have been screwed.
And here's an overall shot, from the passenger side looking up and diagonal towards the driver side / fuel filler. The front of the vehicle is to the right of the image. The metal tray bracket that holds the cannister is held by two bolts out of frame to the right, in a sort of cantilevered mount that tilts up towards the rear.
We're heading out to Costco later today, have less than a quarter tank in it, so it will be a good test of whether we can fill the tank without interruption. They're .20-.25 cents cheaper than anywhere else around, usually, here in the State of massive fuel taxes.
www.gasbuddy.com
It really ought to be 'fixed'. The only other possible source of an early cutoff problem / vapor buildup would be if the vent tube from the tank itself (part of the fuel pump assemblage) was somehow clogged. Maybe I should have shot some compressed air into that tank vent tube while I had things apart. Don't know what sort of snorkel(?) arrangement is on the other end of that pipe, at the top of the pump assembly.
eta
It just occurred to me that I want to cut the old canister open, out of curiosity. I want to see if it is somehow clogged or broken down. Have to go fish it out of the trash.