Hey Vortec Guys! / Sierra pickup / Suburban / Yukon etc - Finally has Index!

rayra

Expedition Leader
Will spraying carb cleaner around the intake detect a leak by the idle increasing or will the computer instantly detect that and adjust it down?

it would probably swiftly adjust, the sampling rate is something ridiculous. BUT I think if there's a vac leak you'd see the solvent vanish faster at the joint / gap, even if you don't detect an increase in rev.
It's a great test of a carburated / non-computerized engine. Not that anyone under 30 would know that these days ;)
 
That shudder at idle is it random or does it seem equally spaced time wise? If equally spaced it is always same cylinder because you are idling at constant speed.

While most people say the intake gaskets are reusable and most shops will re-use them when redoing knock sensors, I would rather replace them than have to go back in cause one leaked.

Harmonic Balancer I have never had to replace one YET. Usually you will see slippage in the two halves. Mark the two halves with a narrow line of white paint. Drive it a few months inspect it to see if you still have a straight line. Reason I say that is it requires a special puller to get LS balancers off. Most guys I know just install them with an impact wrench set on maximum go power. You can't over torque it.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
It's almost like a long oscillation in frequency. A jitter, but it seems to slowly pulse. All very faint. Kinda feels the same as my Sub does when the AC is on.
We've long been chasing a low-grade whirr, at this point I think it's the original power steering pump. It could also be the source of the vibration. Changed the water pump about 60k ago, alternator a couple weeks ago. Electric fans so no fluid fan clutch. And both belts, the AC tensioner, and the idler pulley. IIRC changed the serp tensioner when I did the water pump. Running out of rotating parts to blame it on. I don't think there's enough mass in the oil pump to even notice. I don't see anything in the running belt. But I'll re-check that tomorrow, haven't paid specific attention to it lately.

I've sort of taken to driving her Tahoe monthly to keep tabs on things. She's smarter than the average bear, but still she won't recognize incipient trouble until noises get loud. Then the fuel system hassle started. She's out of town this week so I'm getting a bunch done and flogging the Tahoe around town to catalogue its sins. It's riding kind of hard, even with fresh tires and shocks. I'm going to go after lubing up the suspension later this week. Maybe tomorrow, after the evap valves..
 

fl0w3n

Observer
Ok this is weird two totally unrelated post get answered with the same answer. My LS expert tells me he doubts it is a dirty injector but could be. 9 out of 10 times it is intake gasket. It will not leak enough to show DTC misfire but get this it will show a slight ROUGH IDLE.

Interesting you say that.

I have a "rough idle", and coincidentally just replaced my intake gasket... but I accidentally didn't follow correct torque sequence. I wonder if that's my issue. It's a new to me truck so the rough idle was there before I replaced the intake gasket... I think.
 
My understanding from the experts biggest cause of rough idle is intake gaskets. Surface cleanliness is needed. Make sure any old gasket is completely gone. Check for nicks or deep scratches. If you can feel them with your finger nail take some super fine sandpaper to smooth them out. You do not want a polished surface but a clean surface. You can take a piece of Scotch Brite either red or green to scuff the surface. Brake cleaner is your friend. Allow it to dry before placing gasket. This includes both head and intake surfaces. Check with a straight edge for warping of intake flange both horizontally across the whole length and vertically on each port.

Ok as far as carbon in the IAC ( intake air control) valve on the throttle body. Yes this is a problem. A sticking IAC will cause a surging idle as the ECM is constantly hunting for idle rpm. Do yourself a favor and do the heated throttle body bypass unless you live in a cold climate. This will help prevent carbon from pcv from sticking to throttle!e body and IAC. I know of one instance where carbon built up on TB causing it to stick closed and the driver hit the pedal too hard and hit another parked car.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Well, I don't think I made any difference this morning. Got the vent and purge valves swapped, the lines blown out. And won't really know if I did any good for at least a week. Tahoe's tank is 3/4 full, Missus won't be back until after the 4th.

Jacked and braced the vehicle, but just enough room for me to lay on the ground and hug the rear differential as I worked on and around the cannister. Most of the cannister connections face the fuel tank, so the back of my hand was working against the sharp edge of the gas tank shield. The evap line connectors are similar to the firewall heater hose connections, meant to be quickly stabbed on during assembly and a PITA in all other respects. They work like a gill net, two levers that angle in under a rim on the pipe connector. You have to squeeze and angle them open to wiggle the connector off.

Here's an overview shot. Gas tank on the left. Vent valve top of the image, rear diff vent hose in center foreground

vyOoOxH.jpg



The action on the couplers. I wound up using some large needlenose pliers and a long skinny screwdriver to manipulate the cannister couplers facing the gas tank

6x9eDOE.jpg



Vent valve removed, its coupler is at top left. My index finger points to the cannister nipple, after removing the coupler that runs to teh purge valve on the intake manifold.

mY158Gi.jpg



This is blasting air down the purge pipe

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Old and new. blew and knocked lots of talcum-fine dust out of the old vent valve, but it readily passed air out on the very first attempt.

3gHrdOs.jpg



I blew air in the cannister nipple I was pointing at, air came out the other nipple. Couldn't line up my air hose to do the reverse, so remounted the vent pipe and blew air in its end, nothing seemed to come out the purge nipple. This clashes with my understanding of how things should flow. No sign of any debris or charcoal grit, no material expelled by any of the air blowing. There's either a one-way valve in the cannister or some other blockage I'm unaware of.

I stopped there and put it back together. I wasn't going to go thru the trouble of dismounting the cannister without a new one on hand to install. Probably going to wait until the next attempted fill up before I even order the replacement. At 180k+ mi it probably ought to be replaced anyway. But I'm not in a hurry to spend a $100 on it.

I am bugged that air blown into the vent pipe did not come out the purge fitting on the cannister. That's a direction of flow that SHOULD be happening, as I understand the functioning of the purge system.
But air is flowing the other way, from the cannister out the vent nipple. So the tank ought to be breathing right when being filled.

balls. As I type this out I realize I never checked the short pipe section that connects the cannister to the vent valve. If it is blocked, that would explain why air blown into it didn't come out the purge nipple. AND it would correspond to the filling failures.

But I don't see how it could be. It sits at about a 30deg angle. Anything in it would run back into the cannister. Any crud in it would have resulted in a shower of junk when I ran air in the purge nipple. I did that while placing my finger right on the vent nipple and air was coming out and there was no debris. The pipe is about 14" long, 1/2" dia, thin wall plastic. I really don't want to go back out there and work on it again. And the exhaust pipe is hot now.
And ALL of it could be a blockage of the small rubber vapor vent line from the tank to the cannister, too. And I'm not getting to that without dropping the tank. And if I'm going through that evolution I'm changing the fuel pump too.

I'll probably pull the vent valve pipe this evening and run something thru it to make sure it is clear.

eta at this point I'm HOPING that the vent pipe is blocked. Even if it means the new valves were a waste of money. Because that's any easy fix. If the pipe is wide open it means a bunch more money and effort.

dqiYulV.jpg
 
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rayra

Expedition Leader
Took another crack at it this evening. I pulled the vent valve tube off at both ends (valve and cannister) and verified it wasn't blocked. Then I went ahead and dismounted the cannister tray, in an attempt to dismount the whole thing. The metal tray that holds it has a couple stamped protrusion that fit in depressions in one end of the cannister and the other end where the plumbing is has a tab that is bolted thru.
There was enough play in the rigid pipe of the gas tank vent to cannister tube ot move the contraption around and rotate it about 90deg, all in a futile effort to disconnect the stab connector on its end from the cannister. The blue thing in these pics. working on the ground I could not fiddle it off, nor was there room to work with fuel line disconnector tools or pliers. If I had a replacement cannister in hand I would have just sawn the nipple off the cannister and more readily removed the nub from the gas tank vent fitting.
As it was I gave up on the removal and used the free movement to get my air line on the vent valve cannister nipple and blow air thru it confirming airflow in the expected direction. And did it again after reattching the vent valve pipe to that nipple. Worked both ways. So that resolved that concern. Might still have a blockage at the gas tank vent pipe connection. It was a little gungy looking. But again, nothing to be done without a replacement cannister in hand. Again, 180k mi, very likely I need a new cannister anyway. But for now I've replaced both valves and there isn't much else to the system.
I suppose I could have cut the gas tank vent pipe a couple inches from the fitting and patched it afterward with some tubing and hose clamps. Anyway, back together again.

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oh and it's 13mm bolts for the cannister mounting.
 
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Stryder106

Explorer
Love it when parts from Summit show up. Just got a Power Master 225A alternator for my Avalanche to better handle all of the electro-goodies. 150A output at idle, should be far better than my factory 105A alternator. Now, I'm gathering the parts list for how big of cables I can go to free it all up.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Well photobucket just committed suicide. Demanding $400/yr UP FRONT to have image hosting available. And they try to pull off this robbery on a major holiday weekend adn one about Independence, at that.

Going to take a little while to download, rename, re-host my 3700 images and go around re-editing topics across 5-6 hobbies and a dozen forums. I'll try to get the topics here repaired first.
 

02TahoeMD

Explorer
Well photobucket just committed suicide. Demanding $400/yr UP FRONT to have image hosting available. And they try to pull off this robbery on a major holiday weekend adn one about Independence, at that.

Going to take a little while to download, rename, re-host my 3700 images and go around re-editing topics across 5-6 hobbies and a dozen forums. I'll try to get the topics here repaired first.

:smilies27

Agreed 100%. Anybody have any suggestions as to where else one can host images? Noticed the same stupid message crop up on my own threads here and elsewhere. P.I.T.A. for sure.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
In one fell swoop, photobucket has broken 13 YEARS of my online 'work-product' imagery. How-to topics, remodeling and home-building discussions, firearms boards discussions, politics discussions, model making and prop replica discussions. Vehicle modifications and idea exchanges, diagrams, illustrations and how-to. All of it wrecked, stripped of accompanying visual references and illustrations. Half the non-chattering-social-monkey portion of the internet is broken now. untold manhours of instructional hands-on reference topics are gutted.

Photobucket touts 15 BILLION images and 200 MILLION users. They just deliberately broke all of it with no notice and and are holding it hostage for $400 from each user, to be able to post working image links outside of photobucket.

btw, IMGUR completely replaces your filenames with scrambled gibberish (to ensure unique filenames). Good luck browsing thru new folders of images there, trying to re-edit your big topics.
Just took me ~2hrs to fix a topic on some models I built -

http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=122043&p=1698684#p1698684

pvmepAM.jpg


I'm going to work on this topic now / next, in reverse order for relevancy. But I'll eventually restore all my project topics here.
I think I might instead use some online space from my ISP or Apple, so I can at least retain control of the filenames and make the image link replacement much easier. That model topic gave me a severe headache, moving across multiple web pages and folders on my PC to coordinate it all.
 

Stryder106

Explorer
Put them on Snapfish.com. Snapfish actually sells products using pictures - so they shouldn't ever charge to host the pictures. That would violate their revenue model.
 

tennesseewj

Observer
It's frustrating to see all these image hosting problems.

Years ago when I had my first Tacoma, I was a CustomTacos member. I remember one of the moderators spending a lot of time grabbing people's Photobucket images and re-attaching them to the post through the forum for archiving purposes. Seems like time well spent now...

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

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