Hillbilly Heaven
Explorer
I have 10K of 40cal I am working on. That black connector is a pressure sensor very similar to the MAP sensor on the motor. It will measure vacuum and pressure up to one bar.
Hey Vortec Guys! / Sierra pickup / Suburban / Yukon etc - Finally has Index!
- Thread starter rayra
- Start date
rayra
Expedition Leader
ajmaudio, I'll send you a pic of my bench. My own design, 2x4 framing, lag bolted together and to the wall studs, very strong. I used melamine-coated particle board for the deck, nice and bright, easy to clean, solvent / oil resistent. And the melamine serves as a writing surface for jotting down notes.
I know a guy that knows a guy that's a commercial reloader. ONce in a while he gets a bucket or two of written-off ammo. Various things wrong with its assembly. Not worth it for the reloader to mess with it, just writes it off. Can't even get worthwhile scrap money for it, 'contaminated'. So my guy has it stacking up a bit and offered me a decent deal, I break it down and keep half. Two nearly full Homer buckets, total over 100# of mostly 9mm.
I've been reloading for ~28yrs, never had occasion for a collet puller, didn't make that many mistakes
An inertial puller / hammer was enough. So my guy passed along his puller. First thousand were a real pain and problematic. Then I finally got the hang of properly adjusting the collet, selectively oiling it, and I even made a wood handle for its 1/4" dia steel rod handle. MUCH better. Actually working the way it ought, much faster and easier on my hands. Ive still got ~3600 to break up.The pulled powder is garden fertilizer. I've got ~7# of Red Dot laying around to reload my share with.
I know a guy that knows a guy that's a commercial reloader. ONce in a while he gets a bucket or two of written-off ammo. Various things wrong with its assembly. Not worth it for the reloader to mess with it, just writes it off. Can't even get worthwhile scrap money for it, 'contaminated'. So my guy has it stacking up a bit and offered me a decent deal, I break it down and keep half. Two nearly full Homer buckets, total over 100# of mostly 9mm.
I've been reloading for ~28yrs, never had occasion for a collet puller, didn't make that many mistakes
An inertial puller / hammer was enough. So my guy passed along his puller. First thousand were a real pain and problematic. Then I finally got the hang of properly adjusting the collet, selectively oiling it, and I even made a wood handle for its 1/4" dia steel rod handle. MUCH better. Actually working the way it ought, much faster and easier on my hands. Ive still got ~3600 to break up.The pulled powder is garden fertilizer. I've got ~7# of Red Dot laying around to reload my share with.
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Stryder106
Explorer
Rayra - since you are changing out your pump - are there any options for our rigs to convert it to an external pump? That would make it a whole lot easier to deal with. I'm considering cutting an access hatch in the floor of my Av to get to mine in the future. But, I just put a new AC Delco OEM unit in mine a year ago.
rayra
Expedition Leader
I'm sure it can be readily done. Depends how the factory pump and pickup / screen is designed, seems to be an integrated module. So you'd likely need to leave the factory hardware in place and just run a new hose and screen to reach the bottom of the tank and then put your fuel pump wherever you want. And re-route the factory pump wiring. It appears to be separate from the float level setup.
And the factory assemble could serve as an anchoring point for your new pickup.
And the factory assemble could serve as an anchoring point for your new pickup.
Hillbilly Heaven
Explorer
The Fuel Pump Module (FPM) is an integrated fuel return sump and venturi pump system. The suction on the built in pump pulls fuel from a built in venturi which will also pulls fuel from a built-in reservoir holding return fuel. The whole FPM housing can be removed from the hanger leaving you with the metal tubing. Yes it would require custom plumbing from the metal tubing to some type of screened pick up. Besides ease of service there is no benefit of mounting fuel pump on the outside. Using a name brand such as Delco, Delphi, or Motorcraft yes Motorcraft you should have many years and thousand of miles of trouble free use of the intank pump. Brands like Spectra, Dorman, AutoBest, TYC, and Airtex are not a quality product and may not last as long. The intank pumps run cooler and are quieter. I see problems with fuel slosh when you reach below 1/4 tank and may have fuel starvation issues using an external pump.
Stryder106
Explorer
Yah - when my factory pump died, it got replaced with an Airtex - that only lasted 9,000 miles and it started making the loud noise of impending death. It now has another OEM AC Delco unit.
Hillbilly Heaven
Explorer
Yep spend the money to save yourself extra labor later on.
Hillbilly Heaven
Explorer
Check Amazon for the same Delco pump. I found it cheaper from them. Fulfilled by Amazon not another seller. The original one last 15 years and 230,000 miles so I figured had to be a good one. Well two months after replacing fuel sender quit again. Doesn't bother me right now cause I can go by mileage as all of our mileage is rural and I can get easily 330 miles before worrying about fuel.
NevadaLover
Forking Icehole
I've done alot of pumps on the 96-99 gms but went through the repair orders for our 2000-2006 and only changed 2 out of 19 rigs, this fleet is just lucky I guess, and some have been making the loud noise of impending death for years so it must be a slow death.
rayra
Expedition Leader
I've read elsewhere that pressures at the fuel rail ought to be 50-60psi and a good / new pump runs near 80. So it's overshot by a good margin so even some loss of pump performance leaves the vehicle still operational.
I haven't found anything definitive about ethanol-adulterated fuel and the pumps in VIN 'T' vehicles ('Z' is flex fuel, meant to operate with E85). But our 'T' Tahoe is hitting 190k mi. So it must not be an issue.
I'm going to try and pull the fuel filler and vent hoses on it Sunday morning, just to see what they look like, what their condition is. I still can't find anything definitive on what sort of anti-siphon hardware is in place, beyond the simple flap at the filler opening. If there's a caged ball (sort of a snorkel arrangement) at the base of the filler hose I want to examine it. I've read of other fueling issues where the plastic of the ball finalyl decomposes and starts to swell and distort. Maybe something like this is happening.
I haven't found anything definitive about ethanol-adulterated fuel and the pumps in VIN 'T' vehicles ('Z' is flex fuel, meant to operate with E85). But our 'T' Tahoe is hitting 190k mi. So it must not be an issue.
I'm going to try and pull the fuel filler and vent hoses on it Sunday morning, just to see what they look like, what their condition is. I still can't find anything definitive on what sort of anti-siphon hardware is in place, beyond the simple flap at the filler opening. If there's a caged ball (sort of a snorkel arrangement) at the base of the filler hose I want to examine it. I've read of other fueling issues where the plastic of the ball finalyl decomposes and starts to swell and distort. Maybe something like this is happening.
Hillbilly Heaven
Explorer
Most pumps will do 90 PSI but regulated fuel pressure (rail pressure) is 43.5 to 60 PSI depending on the GM model. Mine went out soon after becoming loud. It would work when the pump was cold but once it got hot it was like running out of fuel. You could still hear the pump running but no pressure.
rayra
Expedition Leader
Managed to screw around with the vehicle in the late morning today. Got the clamps off the fuel filler hose at the filler fitting, but the hoses were realyl stuck on. It was going to be a mess destructive process to get them free and the other half at the tank is right above the rear differential next to the evap canister. So I balked and put the clamps back on.
Then I dug out the siphon hose I usually use in conjuction with a 'Super Siphon', for transferrign fuel from 5gal jugs. It's a 1/2" ID clear PVC hose. I was able to feed it past the flap at the filler opening almost entirely and hit a hard stop. Marked the hose (about 45"), pulled it back out (holding the filler gate open with a long narrow screwdriver) then took it under the vehicle to match it to the filler hose. The stoppage was at the inlet fitting on the tank itself, which make a bit of an angle / bend with the fill hose, they don't align perfectly with each other. So I cut the end of my siphon hose at a 45deg bevel and fed it in again and was able to put the whole 6' hose in. Pulled it back out, end was wet with fuel. So no blockage whatsoever of the fill hose, to anti-siphon ball, nothing.
So I'm back to the evap vent line / rollover valve blockage theory / observation. I'll go put gas in it later and see how it behaves.
eta
gas pumped fine again. No stoppages.
Then I dug out the siphon hose I usually use in conjuction with a 'Super Siphon', for transferrign fuel from 5gal jugs. It's a 1/2" ID clear PVC hose. I was able to feed it past the flap at the filler opening almost entirely and hit a hard stop. Marked the hose (about 45"), pulled it back out (holding the filler gate open with a long narrow screwdriver) then took it under the vehicle to match it to the filler hose. The stoppage was at the inlet fitting on the tank itself, which make a bit of an angle / bend with the fill hose, they don't align perfectly with each other. So I cut the end of my siphon hose at a 45deg bevel and fed it in again and was able to put the whole 6' hose in. Pulled it back out, end was wet with fuel. So no blockage whatsoever of the fill hose, to anti-siphon ball, nothing.
So I'm back to the evap vent line / rollover valve blockage theory / observation. I'll go put gas in it later and see how it behaves.
eta
gas pumped fine again. No stoppages.
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I'm glad you're taking the hit on all the investigation for this issue, Rayra, since it's too infuriating for me to confront working on. I look forward to you finding a solution
Since I've blown out the evap can and the solenoid in the rear, it's kind of gotten better, but with a 38 gallon tank I certainly can't make it through a fill up without the pump popping 2-3 times. I did replace the valve at the intake, but nothing changed (no better, and doesn't seem worse at least).
You guys kind of have me worried about fuel pumps now. A few times in some high ambient temp towing situations, I've gotten out with the truck idling in park and can hear a loud whine - I suspect that it's the fuel pump. Will checking fuel rail pressure give me an indication of health, or due to it being regulated anyways will that not really say anything?
Since I've blown out the evap can and the solenoid in the rear, it's kind of gotten better, but with a 38 gallon tank I certainly can't make it through a fill up without the pump popping 2-3 times. I did replace the valve at the intake, but nothing changed (no better, and doesn't seem worse at least).
You guys kind of have me worried about fuel pumps now. A few times in some high ambient temp towing situations, I've gotten out with the truck idling in park and can hear a loud whine - I suspect that it's the fuel pump. Will checking fuel rail pressure give me an indication of health, or due to it being regulated anyways will that not really say anything?