Hey Vortec Guys! / Sierra pickup / Suburban / Yukon etc - Finally has Index!
- Thread starter rayra
- Start date
Martinjmpr
Wiffleball Batter
Any idea of what that "books out" in terms of repair hours? Trying to calculate an estimated cost (dropping a fuel tank is not something I feel comfortable tackling in my driveway, especially now that the 'burb is my only 4 wheeled vehicle.)
Based on what I'm seeing here I'm thinking, what, 3 - 4 hrs of labor to remove and replace? So with the cost of the pump itself, probably $500 - $600 at most shops?
Stryder106
Explorer
Mine cost $900 but $350 of that was that I put a factory OEM fuel pump back in it. I too was uncomfortable dropping my tank which is why I'm going to be creating an access panel for the fuel pump so I can reach it from under my seat.
Hillbilly Heaven
Explorer
Don't cut it till you drop the tank because there are fuel, vapor, and wiring close in there. The top of the tanks hugs close to the floor. I doubt there is the thickness of your hand between floor and tank. Saving a few hundred is not worth risking the loss of your vehicle and especially your life.
Anyone replacing these pumps use an AC Delco only. Stay away from Spectre or Airtex brands.
Lykos
Super Trucker
Dropping a fuel tank isn't that much of an ordeal. The hardest part is when the bolts on the straps are rusted. Copious amounts of Kroil will help immensely. Starting with an almost empty tank is a huge plus.
There are several youtube videos on the process. Watch a few of those and you'll be far less intimidated by the job.
Honestly, no harder than it is I'd never consider cutting a hole in my floor. It's just not that bad.
There are several youtube videos on the process. Watch a few of those and you'll be far less intimidated by the job.
Honestly, no harder than it is I'd never consider cutting a hole in my floor. It's just not that bad.
Stryder106
Explorer
Absolutely. I will drop the tank before cutting anything anywhere near it. And agreed on the pump - my first replacement pump was an Airtex and it died within 2 years.
Stryder106
Explorer
It is that bad if your fuel pump quits in the middle of the desert. My plan is to cut and access panel either fab a new plate to bolt over it with some RTV to seal it up until access is needed (shouldn't be very often (hopefully never), or use a locking marine hatch. Still figuring that one out. Thanks for the advice on the Kroil.
Lykos
Super Trucker
Buddha.
Finally in expo white.
Dropping the fuel tank can be trickey with the rusty strap bolts, accessing the fuel line disconnects on top the tank, and the fuel filler can even be a pita. It's all doable though, I wouldn't pay someone to do it. It's easier than dropping a trans or pulling an engine.
rayra
Expedition Leader
Some careful drilling with a step-bit and an air-powered nibbler or a well-wielded 4" grinder with cutting wheel would make quick work of the floor steel with very little risk to the tank or fuel.
The video I mentioned earlier (and a couple like it) show some interesting ways to create a new flange with sheet metal strips and caulking and blind rivets. Resulting in a flange for re-attaching the cut-out floor section. And you can do that with short self-tapping sheet-metal screws.
My intent is to do that work in advance of need. As Stryder is alluding to, the idea being to make a 'surprise!' fuel pump swap in the field easier to do. Maybe an hour instead of half a day, in the middle of an 'expedition'. Would sure beat hell out of crawling around on the ground, away from home.
This is the specific video that lays it out for GMT800 Subs, even gives dimensions / cut placements. Makes it look pretty easy, to me.
The center of the pump appears to be right on the center of the seat bolt pattern. The hatch hole is 2" larger to the front and centerline than the other two sides, apparently for greater access to the plumbing connections.
Sure seems a lot easier than trying to wrestle the tank out in the driveway. I've watched some 'pro' fuel pump swaps and even standing up under a lift it looks like a great pain tring to tip the tank and get your arm up on top of it to disconnect things. There isn't enough slack in anything to get the tank loose and put it all on the ground first. Looks SO much easier to just reach thru a hole cut in the floor. I've wrestled around under vehicles enough in my 54yrs to know I don't like it. Grit in my eyes, contortions to reach things and needing a second elbow in your arm. Losing lots of skin. No thanks. I've got the tools and metalworking skills to make short work of cutting the floor and then building it back up.
Some good flange and caulking work underneath, some peel and stick butyl rubber window flashing to seal the floor on the interior, would be good enough
The video I mentioned earlier (and a couple like it) show some interesting ways to create a new flange with sheet metal strips and caulking and blind rivets. Resulting in a flange for re-attaching the cut-out floor section. And you can do that with short self-tapping sheet-metal screws.
My intent is to do that work in advance of need. As Stryder is alluding to, the idea being to make a 'surprise!' fuel pump swap in the field easier to do. Maybe an hour instead of half a day, in the middle of an 'expedition'. Would sure beat hell out of crawling around on the ground, away from home.
This is the specific video that lays it out for GMT800 Subs, even gives dimensions / cut placements. Makes it look pretty easy, to me.
The center of the pump appears to be right on the center of the seat bolt pattern. The hatch hole is 2" larger to the front and centerline than the other two sides, apparently for greater access to the plumbing connections.
Sure seems a lot easier than trying to wrestle the tank out in the driveway. I've watched some 'pro' fuel pump swaps and even standing up under a lift it looks like a great pain tring to tip the tank and get your arm up on top of it to disconnect things. There isn't enough slack in anything to get the tank loose and put it all on the ground first. Looks SO much easier to just reach thru a hole cut in the floor. I've wrestled around under vehicles enough in my 54yrs to know I don't like it. Grit in my eyes, contortions to reach things and needing a second elbow in your arm. Losing lots of skin. No thanks. I've got the tools and metalworking skills to make short work of cutting the floor and then building it back up.
Some good flange and caulking work underneath, some peel and stick butyl rubber window flashing to seal the floor on the interior, would be good enough
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rayra
Expedition Leader
Eastwood nibbler rated for 18ga and specifically hyped for automotive sheet metal. $35
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-a...0020&msclkid=ed96845afdb9125659d1dea90f2f89bc
Harbor Freight's offering says 16ga, $26 Like wire gauge, smaller number is thicker. And 16ga is about 1/16th of an inch. So quick work for a cut-off wheel, too.
https://www.harborfreight.com/16-gauge-air-nibbler-96661.html
I've had decent experiences with the chicom copycat air tools. Only failure was of an old air grease gun, the rubber valving body got stiff and lost seal.
And with their ubiquitous 20% coupons, $20 to try it seems worthwhile.
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-a...0020&msclkid=ed96845afdb9125659d1dea90f2f89bc
Harbor Freight's offering says 16ga, $26 Like wire gauge, smaller number is thicker. And 16ga is about 1/16th of an inch. So quick work for a cut-off wheel, too.
https://www.harborfreight.com/16-gauge-air-nibbler-96661.html
I've had decent experiences with the chicom copycat air tools. Only failure was of an old air grease gun, the rubber valving body got stiff and lost seal.
And with their ubiquitous 20% coupons, $20 to try it seems worthwhile.
autism family travels
Active member
It is the infamous broken manifold bolt....I am replacing both manifolds next week, as well as a leaking passenger side axle seal in front. The rest of the rig is working quite nicely now...besides the rusty bumpers.
rayra
Expedition Leader
BOO airtex water pumps! 6mos only 2500mi, a couple high speed runs and while chasing down a chirping noise in the belts area and chasing a coolant leak that I thought was coming from the head crossover pipe and throttle body warming circuit hose AND finding a loose lower thermostat housing bolt, I clean everything and run it up to temp and find coolant streaming out past the water pump bearing seal. I'd changed all the idler and tensioner pulleys last year but thought the chirp might have been coming from the S-belt tensioner. Sits close and above the water pump. But once I found the rivulet of fluid, well that chirp is the dying bearing in my new water pump.
Been driving it really hard lately, bounced it off the limiter on one recent run and that's about when the leak and chirp started. It isn't a smooth thing, either, the vehicle chops the RPMs abruptly, instead of holding at the limit. I thought I broke the damned thing, in the middle of a hard pass on a long stretch of 2 lane in the high desert. Semi and 4 tailgaters all doing nothing for miles, so I passed them all in a big hurry. The shutdown / slowdown came right in the middle of it. Nice shot of adrenaline.
Delco Pro here I come. $73 at rockauto.
Hopefully I can spin off the fan nut without having to pull my radiator to get an air gun on it. The original swap 6mos ago was a stone cold beyotch to get apart.
Been driving it really hard lately, bounced it off the limiter on one recent run and that's about when the leak and chirp started. It isn't a smooth thing, either, the vehicle chops the RPMs abruptly, instead of holding at the limit. I thought I broke the damned thing, in the middle of a hard pass on a long stretch of 2 lane in the high desert. Semi and 4 tailgaters all doing nothing for miles, so I passed them all in a big hurry. The shutdown / slowdown came right in the middle of it. Nice shot of adrenaline.
Delco Pro here I come. $73 at rockauto.
Hopefully I can spin off the fan nut without having to pull my radiator to get an air gun on it. The original swap 6mos ago was a stone cold beyotch to get apart.
Yroundrdn
Observer
Interesting Rayra, I have a chirping noise coming from the belt area as well. I was thinking it was the idler pulley but it's not consistent enough. Also, small amount of coolant missing but no leaks. Put the two together and it makes sense. Been down this road before, just didn't want to admit it. I know on my XJ's the aftermarket pumps only last a year. Dealer pumps last 10+ years. Good call on the Delco, guess I'll be doing the same.
Watch out.. if memory serves the delco pro pumps are not oem.. they are china junk much the same as your dealing with now. The "pro" name is misleading. It took me a very long time to track down an oem pump without going to a dealer and paying out the nose. None of the parts chains sell an actual oem pump. , at least around here. Even after my hunting I ended up with a mexican oem pump, I was hoping for a canadian made unit.