How Is Your Fridge Slide Secured?

For those of you using a fridge slide in your Jeep. How did you secure it to the Jeep? I’m looking to add one to my setup and hoping to learn from your experiences!
 

zgfiredude

Active member
I am planning for this as well, and so far it seems that there is a panel/floor attached to the four corner tie down points in the real floor that then allows you to attach the fridge slider to......I hope you followed that, i am two black-russians into Sunday night football.....:eek:
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
For my JK, I built a full width sliding cargo tray that bolts to the rear seat mounts into the floor and the 4 tie down points on the floor. It is about 3-4” off the floor and allows access to the floor cubby and stores a folding plastic table underneath as well.
 

jscherb

Expedition Leader
What type of slide are you planning to get? I ask because MORryde offers a no-drill bolt-in kit for the JK and JL for their Trail Kitchens.

The base Trail Kitchen provides a fridge slide plus a tray underneath for a two-burner stove and with the no-drill kit bolts in to the factory tie-down points. The base Trail Kitchen of course is more expensive than a simple slide (the ARB slide retails for a little under $400 and the base trail kitchen is about $550) but if you plan more than just a fridge it might be worth considering.
 
I am planning for this as well, and so far it seems that there is a panel/floor attached to the four corner tie down points in the real floor that then allows you to attach the fridge slider to......I hope you followed that, i am two black-russians into Sunday night football.....:eek:
This seems to be the most popular option I have seen. I am thinking of doing the same. I was hoping to find a way to just secure the slide to the factory mounting points, but I do not see an option. I have been doing some mockups to cut out some plywood. I was hoping to use another material that is lighter but everything else is much more expensive.
 
What type of slide are you planning to get? I ask because MORryde offers a no-drill bolt-in kit for the JK and JL for their Trail Kitchens.

The base Trail Kitchen provides a fridge slide plus a tray underneath for a two-burner stove and with the no-drill kit bolts in to the factory tie-down points. The base Trail Kitchen of course is more expensive than a simple slide (the ARB slide retails for a little under $400 and the base trail kitchen is about $550) but if you plan more than just a fridge it might be worth considering.

This looks like a really slick option, however, it looks like more than I will have the space for. I wish they sold just the mounting crossbars that any slide system could tie into.
 
For my JK, I built a full width sliding cargo tray that bolts to the rear seat mounts into the floor and the 4 tie down points on the floor. It is about 3-4” off the floor and allows access to the floor cubby and stores a folding plastic table underneath as well.
Do you have any pictures I would love to see it.
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
I posted some in the show your storage thread 5-6 years ago. I can take a few recent ones tomorrow or Wednesday, so you can see the patina. It has been working well.

I don’t have pictures of the bracket I built, but the post is linked here:


It has probably been 5 years and well over 100k miles and it still rattles exactly the same as day 1!
 
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dukabor

New member
I drilled right through the floor for my ARB slide.... did not want it any higher or it impacts the storage rack above..... I then cut the lid for the cubby so it still opens from the side not covered by the slide.... very handy and secure spot to stuff 3 little tool bags in with easy access
 

jgaz

Adventurer
In my LJ I made a base plate out of 3/4” baltic birch plywood. The base plate is secured to numerous factory threaded inserts in the floor for the rear seat base, the seat belt anchors, etc.
E0F68954-5561-4187-8EF2-488C61FED868.jpeg

The fridge slide is secured to the base plate with (6) 3/8” thread, pronged tee nuts. These tee nuts are epoxied into a shallow counter bore in the base plate.
2F5AFED1-E430-4C60-9700-66B2B9B34B6C.jpeg
 
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In my LJ I made a base plate out of 3/4” baltic birch plywood. The base plate is secured to numerous factory threaded inserts in the floor for the rear seat base, the seat belt anchors, etc.
View attachment 696191

The fridge slide is secured to the base plate with (6) 3/8” thread, pronged tee nuts. These tee nuts are epoxied into a shallow counter bore in the base plate.
View attachment 696192

This looks like what I am thinking. If I can get mine to look half as good I will be pretty happy. Thanks for sharing!
 

jscherb

Expedition Leader
Hmmm... a generic no-drill fridge slide (and other gear) mounting kit - sounds like something that could be popular.
MOPAR offers what they call the "Trail Rail" option for securing things to the floor of the JL/JLU:

MOPARTrailRail.jpg


And the prototype Ineos Grenadier includes airline track on the floor of their cargo area:

GrenadierCargo5.jpg


What about an aftermarket universal mounting system for the JKU/JK using airline-style L-track? The L-tracks could attach to the floor tie-down points, and be installed in either direction.

L-Tracks.jpg


Since some of the things to be mounted (like fridge slides) wouldn't line up nicely with the tracks, cross-rails could be part of the kit and would be able to be adjusted to the proper spacing using the L-track capabilities.

A Google search on "L-track" will turn up lots of track and lots of attachment options to DIY something like this.

L-Tracks2.jpg
 

zgfiredude

Active member
This is good thinking Jeff.....in my case, I'd like to keep the vertical space loss due to the slider at a minimum. I have a raised shelf over the space to deal with that is super handy. This however limits my vertical space for a fridge. To further my issues, I want to choose a fridge that will work in my JKU and my teardrop. I'm leaning towards aluminum vs. plywood for the "plate" portion as well. It seems like that airline track would allow for the mounting of the plate with the least "lost" vertical dimension while still keeping it removeable. One could always simply do aluminum plate directly to the floor as well. More to ponder, ;)
 

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