How would you outfit this custom LJ?

[jscherb]

What about ditching the extrusion surrounding the glass and attach the glass to the inner extrusion using button fasteners like those used to attach the struts to the back glass on the factory hardtop? The glass could seal against the weatherstripping. I would think that would give it a much cleaner look.

That would require drilling the glass in multiple places to attach those fasteners, which I think would be a lot more expensive than doing framed glass.

 

[Black Dog]

I need everyone's input on this design - rather than outfit the LJ for sleeping, I think it's better to have a companion trailer. This trailer would be made from two TJ/LJ tubs, a trailer frame, and a top made from the existing Safari Cab molds, no new molds would be required to build this one.

There is a fiber glass travel trailer design called a Hilow (or some variation of that). Basically the bottom half of the trailer nests inside the top half, and when ready the top half raises straight up to full height, and is compacted when in motion. Something like that would be cool for your design because it keeps the center of gravity waaay lower. The downside though is that it has more moving parts that could possibly break when you are way far out in the middle of nowhere. And it wouldn't be able to use an LJ tub like you are thinking of unless you created a new mold that was slightly bigger so that it could slip down over the bottom tub.

 

[jscherb]

There is a fiber glass travel trailer design called a Hilow (or some variation of that). Basically the bottom half of the trailer nests inside the top half, and when ready the top half raises straight up to full height, and is compacted when in motion. Something like that would be cool for your design because it keeps the center of gravity waaay lower. The downside though is that it has more moving parts that could possibly break when you are way far out in the middle of nowhere. And it wouldn't be able to use an LJ tub like you are thinking of unless you created a new mold that was slightly bigger so that it could slip down over the bottom tub.

The goal of this camper is what my wife calls "stop and drop", meaning, no set-up is required for use (well, at least no set up in order to sleep when you're dog-tired from a long day). Stop the vehicle, open the door, drop into bed . Also, since I've got the molds already, I'm not looking to make the huge investment in new masters and molds that would be required by the design you suggest.

If you guys think my design is unworkable or impractical, please let me know why so I don't waste a lot of time on something that's a bad idea.

Assuming it isn't a bad idea, what I'm really looking for is suggestions on how to improve what I've shown in the design drawing - I'm not an expert at designing camping trailers, this is my first attempt, so I could use the help of some experts.

thanks

 

[jscherb]

SO are you home again Jeff? How did the trip go, where they thrilled to see you?

Trip went very well, they seem impressed with what I've delivered to them and they're anxious to get started making parts. But I can't really say more about it here due to the rules of the forum.

By the by, I think you are about to build the strangest 'tear drop' trailer anyone has ever had! But I like it!

Do you mean "strange" in a bad way, as in I shouldn't build it because it would be too strange? I posted the design here for feedback because I have no experience designing campers, so if you think it's stupid, please don't be afraid to let me know.

 

[Backwoods Rambler]

The only downside I can see with the camper idea is the low headroom that having the bed over all of the storage causes. Wake up abruptly from a bad dream and you could have a nasty bruise & bump on your head.

 

[Jim K in PA]

I like the idea/intent. My wife also liked it. However, I see two downsides (from my perspective) that would dissuade me from building a trailer out of a pair of TJ tubs.

1 - weight. I am building an expo trailer for our 2005 LJ Rubicon that is going to be just for the two of us. Same goal; quick or no setup and breakdown. However, I do not want to haul 2000# around behind the LJ, on or off road. I suspect the trailer as you show it will easily reach that level. Our trailer will weight in at about 1000-1200#.

2 - interior height. We want something we can just crawl into and sleep in, AND something we could spend a rainy afternoon reading in. The upper section of the camper will raise up to allow normal sitting height inside without sitting on the floor.

If YOUR goal is to use YOUR molds and topper parts, and the above do not matter to you, then go for it. All the other details are subjective.

The goal of this camper is what my wife calls "stop and drop", meaning, no set-up is required for use (well, at least no set up in order to sleep when you're dog-tired from a long day). Stop the vehicle, open the door, drop into bed . Also, since I've got the molds already, I'm not looking to make the huge investment in new masters and molds that would be required by the design you suggest.

If you guys think my design is unworkable or impractical, please let me know why so I don't waste a lot of time on something that's a bad idea.

Assuming it isn't a bad idea, what I'm really looking for is suggestions on how to improve what I've shown in the design drawing - I'm not an expert at designing camping trailers, this is my first attempt, so I could use the help of some experts.

thanks

 

[jscherb]

The only downside I can see with the camper idea is the low headroom that having the bed over all of the storage causes. Wake up abruptly from a bad dream and you could have a nasty bruise & bump on your head.

Because the height of the Safari Cab roof is higher than the factory hardtop, there's more room than you might think - it should be about 32" from the top of the mattress to the inside of the roof, depending a little with the thickness of the mattress chosen.

But you're right, I just measured myself sitting up in a chair, and there's 39" from the chair cushion to the top of my head (I'm 6' 6"), so I don't have quite enough room to sit up all the way. I also measured my wife (she's 5'9"), and she does have room to sit up fully.

I'll see what I can do to lower the bed platform, there's probably 4 inches or more I can find with some adjustment to the plan, and perhaps creative modification of the inner wheel wells.

Thanks for the input.

 

[jscherb]

I like the idea/intent. My wife also liked it. However, I see two downsides (from my perspective) that would dissuade me from building a trailer out of a pair of TJ tubs.

1 - weight. I am building an expo trailer for our 2005 LJ Rubicon that is going to be just for the two of us. Same goal; quick or no setup and breakdown. However, I do not want to haul 2000# around behind the LJ, on or off road. I suspect the trailer as you show it will easily reach that level. Our trailer will weight in at about 1000-1200#.

2 - interior height. We want something we can just crawl into and sleep in, AND something we could spend a rainy afternoon reading in. The upper section of the camper will raise up to allow normal sitting height inside without sitting on the floor.

If YOUR goal is to use YOUR molds and topper parts, and the above do not matter to you, then go for it. All the other details are subjective.

Thanks for the input. I commented on #2 in the post above, and I can make adjustments to increase the headroom.

I don't think the trailer would be as heavy as you say... my calculations don't show it anywhere near 2000 - I calculate it around 1500 pounds. But I'll go over the figures again to verify my weight estimates.

Thanks again, good points.

 

[4X4NDAD]

Back to the thread title

A while back in the thread someone had suggested a Highline kit. I've done the Diy highline as written by the guys at Higherground4x4.com. With your skills you could easily build your own version. So if I had or could build up your rig as my own. First off Highline it. Add 2.5 inch short arm lift. 35-37 inch tires, gears/ axle swaps as needed or wanted. Quality Bilistien or better shocks. Swap front swaybar to Currie or selectable unit but no disconnects. Retain factory engine tranny combo, maybe add the rubicrawler box if ultra lower gearing is required. I would also add Onboard air with a tank around 2 gallons. The solar panals, battery tender, inverter and 12 volt fridge would be on the trailer as well as water tank and bumper dumper. If the end result is a long range reliable overland vehicle keep as close to stock as you can. If a failure occurs somewhere, parts are easier to get ahold of. Big smiles keep the projects coming.:smiley_drive:

 

[jscherb]

A while back in the thread someone had suggested a Highline kit. I've done the Diy highline as written by the guys at Higherground4x4.com. With your skills you could easily build your own version. So if I had or could build up your rig as my own. First off Highline it. Add 2.5 inch short arm lift. 35-37 inch tires, gears/ axle swaps as needed or wanted. Quality Bilistien or better shocks. Swap front swaybar to Currie or selectable unit but no disconnects. Retain factory engine tranny combo, maybe add the rubicrawler box if ultra lower gearing is required. I would also add Onboard air with a tank around 2 gallons. The solar panals, battery tender, inverter and 12 volt fridge would be on the trailer as well as water tank and bumper dumper. If the end result is a long range reliable overland vehicle keep as close to stock as you can. If a failure occurs somewhere, parts are easier to get ahold of. Big smiles keep the projects coming.:smiley_drive:

Well this shows why I need help from you guys, and what a newbie I am with trailer design... I didn't plan for a space for a fridge (or even a cooler) in the trailer design. Hmmm... back to the drawing program to find space for that :yikes:. Duh. Thanks!

As for the LJ, I've got a 2" BB Lift, and plan 32" tires (265's) when the factory 245 MTR's wear out. With only 32's, a highline conversion probably isn't necessary. Definitely need some better shocks, still have the factory ones, I'm expecting they'll need replacement before too long. I don't think I'd need any more than that for the trails I'm likely to do, I pretty much would be sticking to nothing worse than unmaintained roads, rather than going where there aren't any roads or never have been any. OBA is a great idea.

Thanks for the input!

 

[Jim K in PA]

The TJ tubs are quite strong, and therefore quite heavy. Getting rid of both bulkheads will drop the weight, but exactly how much is unknown. You will still wind up with a lower structure that is far stronger, and heavier, than it needs to be for a camper trailer. The weight of the axle and suspension, as well as wheels and tires and brakes needs to be considered as well.

If you cut out the floor entirely and install one at the bottom of the tub edge, you will gain some height where the rear rises up on the stock tub. If you convert to independent trailing arms, you can probably go flat bottom all the way. Trailers do not need much suspension up travel, so the independent set up may not be necessary.

I was also going to mount the fridge in the trailer, but instead I will mount it in the LJ. That way we can keep it with us while out exploring and the trailer stays at base camp.

BTW - I run 255/85s on my stock LJ Rubicon with no interference on stock Moab rims. Slight rub on the stock front sway bar at full lock, but minor.

Do you intend to have a single or dual spare tires with you on long trips?

 

[jscherb]

The TJ tubs are quite strong, and therefore quite heavy. Getting rid of both bulkheads will drop the weight, but exactly how much is unknown. You will still wind up with a lower structure that is far stronger, and heavier, than it needs to be for a camper trailer. The weight of the axle and suspension, as well as wheels and tires and brakes needs to be considered as well.

If you cut out the floor entirely and install one at the bottom of the tub edge, you will gain some height where the rear rises up on the stock tub. If you convert to independent trailing arms, you can probably go flat bottom all the way. Trailers do not need much suspension up travel, so the independent set up may not be necessary.

Agreed on the strength and weight of the tub being more than required. My plan would be to remove most of the structure of the tubs except for the outer skin and tailgate jamb, and rebuild it at a lighter weight. Part of the reason is to get rid of the huge inner fenders, which as you note, won't be needed due to the lower uptravel requirement, and replacing them with smaller ones will add to the interior space. Lowering the floor can be done at the same time to get more headroom.

Axle and suspension would be trailer parts, not TJ parts, and the frame would not be a TJ frame, it would be a lighter weight trailer frame, so all that saves weight.

I was also going to mount the fridge in the trailer, but instead I will mount it in the LJ. That way we can keep it with us while out exploring and the trailer stays at base camp.

BTW - I run 255/85s on my stock LJ Rubicon with no interference on stock Moab rims. Slight rub on the stock front sway bar at full lock, but minor.

Do you intend to have a single or dual spare tires with you on long trips?

Haven't really thought about how many spares to carry, could carry a second one either on the door of the trailer as shown in the drawing, or on the roof rack on top of the LJ.

 

[Black Dog]

For your trailer, I think I'd rework the suspension. It seems to me that if you are making a camper you probably will want it to not have a lot of body roll going side to side and making all your belonging fly around. In your graphics it has leaf springs, but I wonder if you could "borrow" the TASS Generation 3 suspension design from Adventure Trailers. http://www.adventuretrailers.com/suspension.html Then it is an independent suspension with an air shock.

 

[jscherb]

Here's the soft window side panel installed on the Jeep with the rest of the top. My son Alex is at the wheel, and my wife is in the back. She says she really likes these side panels for the open feeling they give. All Alex wants to do is drive it somewhere...

 

[jscherb]

Alex is learning to drive a standard transmission, so I let him take the Safari Cab for a spin around the block. Here's some "action shots" .