I-6 or V8?

[AndrewP]

That is fantastic...but out of the thousands of ih8mud members, that is the first one I can recall posting 300K...but I am sure there is more.

That alone should tell you that the V8 is better than the I6, which is the original question. Who cares if Toyota redesigned the HG? Are they paying to put a new HG in? Nope. BTW, a leaky HG can destroy a block if you don't catch it in time. My head had to be shaved 0.006 at 90K due to the damage and that is close to the limit allowed by Toyota.

At the time, I didn't know it was a problem. I only had the vehicle for less than a 1 year. I didn't even know it existed!! I replaced all the hoses when I did the HG, but I didn't see that sneaky little hose

Then later, I thought I did replace it, but obviously I didn't.

I know it is normal for Toyotas, and some American V8s due to the placement near the exhaust, but I have yet to replace a starter on anything but a Toyota. My brother's 1987 Chevy has 300K on it, on the original motor with the original head gasket. Not sure about the starter.

I have owned Toyotas for nearly 20 years, and I have plenty of experience on the 22R-E and now on the 1FZE. I have done almost 400K on toyotas. Every single one of them were bought post 75K. So, I am very intimate on what it takes to get a 22RE or a 1FZE from 100K to 200K.

If I had to choose a motor, it wouldn't be a 1FZE but the newer V8.

Oh, my 1FZE doesn't use any oil, but some do, a quart/1000 miles is considered normal by Toyota. I run full synthetic in it.

I reserve judgment on newer toyota motors because I haven't actually owned one, but I will assume they have improved. I suggest you reserve judgment on newer Ford motors until you have actually owned one.

I wasn't arguing whether the 8 or the 6 was better. They are different, with different issues. The V8 no doubt is an excellent motor. I'm just sort of defending the 1FZ, which you called a 100K motor.

If you changed the HG yourself, you had to remove the PHH, and then put it back on. Since the bands get destroyed when it comes off, you had to change it. Something does not sound correct here, sir!

I too, have owned Toyotas for years (bought my first new one in 1983). They all had a few quirks, and all ran to high mileage. I still have four of them now, two of them at well over 200K.

My most reliable car ever was an Acura, so I'm no Toyota apologist.

Starters are a universal wear item. Toyota's is nice in that you only need to replace the contacts, which is a trivial expense. No such luck with my Nissans, Our Dodge, and the useless POS FORD Escort I had back in the 80s.

My own guess is that there are not enough V8s above 100k yet to really know where the problems will be. For sure, the starter is a PIA for a routine item, and the timing belt seems inappropriate for a truck motor, designed to go for years in hard service. A chain, like the FZJ, would have been a much better choice.

A SBC V-8 is not exactly a bomb proof motor, rarely goes to that mileage, and the cars they come attached to are total crap. Motor issues there-Intake manifold leaks, piston slap, bore wear and excess oil consumption. Buy one of you wish, but it would not be my choice-and I've owned one of those as well-bought new in 1984 and sold in 86 because of reliability problems.

 

[kbellve]

If you changed the HG yourself, you had to remove the PHH, and then put it back on. Since the bands get destroyed when it comes off, you had to change it. Something does not sound correct here, sir!

I think the.side of.the phh attached to the head is a spring clamp. The side on the metal tube is a band clamp.. Like I said, I may have replaced it, but I can't specifically recall. Since it went later, I can only assume I didn't or the replacement had a very short life.

V8 > I6

 

[cpg]

I think the.side of.the phh attached to the head is a spring clamp. The side on the metal tube is a band clamp.. Like I said, I may have replaced it, but I can't specifically recall. Since it went later, I can only assume I didn't or the replacement had a very short life.

V8 > I6

Maybe you did not change it. That would be a very short lifespan for that hose.

Possible that the cooling system was not maintained prior to you owning it causing the issue with the HG, water pump , and radiator.

 

[calamaridog]

One of the things that has been preventing me from going to 10k for oil changes is that I have not done my own oil analysis. I also don't like that the oil filter is so small, but I assume it is up to the task.

Do what you are comfortable with, but you can read up on oil analysis results on bobistheoilguy.com and you will find good numbers on the Mobil 1 oil and filter changes at 10k.

Also, I am not using the small filter. The larger M209 filter fits fine, provides more filtering media, and has the same specifications as the smaller one.

I'm going to send in a sample at the next change and I'll let you know.

 

[Redline]

I have looked for 4.7L info on BobIsTheOilGuy and didn't find much, I’ll look again. Is the good data with Mobil 1 and filter for the 4.7L engine?

I’m pretty comfortable that my oil can handle more than 5,000-miles but I want some data to back it up. A filter with more capacity (and the same/better quality) would make me feel more comfortable yet. I have a by-pass oil filter in my shop for my F350 Power Stroke maybe I should adapt it to the 4.7? (I'm joking

Do what you are comfortable with, but you can read up on oil analysis results on bobistheoilguy.com and you will find good numbers on the Mobil 1 oil and filter changes at 10k.

Also, I am not using the small filter. The larger M209 filter fits fine, provides more filtering media, and has the same specifications as the smaller one.

I'm going to send in a sample at the next change and I'll let you know.

 

[Pskhaat]

FWIW, I have receiveed three oil analysis reports saying the engine was ``treated with a white glove'' in it's life. She has something like ~110k miles, and I am M1 and Mobil filters (as the Toy 41010s don't fit) running between 10-12k miles between changes.

 

[Redline]

It's worth quite a lot Scott, thanks for the encouraging info. Have you had the 80 since new? Do you know it’s prior care history?

The web is such a wonderful, powerful tool. After reading calamaridog's post regarding using the larger Mobil 1 M1209 filter I went on a search mission. The stock Toyota filter is probably a very fine filter, maybe even the best? But my sense is that for parts commonality Toyota has designed many of their engines to use one filter. Does the new 5.7L V8 use this same small filter, or have they finally upgraded? If running a longer oil change interval is the goal, it seems that having more oil capacity and more filtering media would be a good thing. I don’t mind changing my oil every 5k or so. But one advantage to running longer oil change intervals would be for longer adventures. A good example is Scott, Chris, and Pasquale’s Arctic Expedition. There are so many miles involved to just get up there and back that if one was to stick to the very short 3-5k oil change intervals oil changes would be needed mid expedition. Same for most people driving to Alaska and back. A 10k (or more) interval allows more flexibility.

Using the M1209 I cross referenced to a Wix 51516. Using the Wix number I cross referenced to a Donaldson P550400. Donaldson is a commercial systems manufacturer that has a reputation for making good stuff. I can't prove that they are better than ‘XYZ’ brand, but I'm willing to bet they are not inferior in most cases.

The diameter specs for this Donaldson appear to be the same as the stock Toyota 90915 I have in my hand, and my local Caterpillar dealer (where I have had oil analysis done on other engines) has Donaldson’s in stock for $7.25 each. They are about 1-inch longer according to the specs, not night & day, but notable. I plan to buy a couple.

FWIW, I have receiveed three oil analysis reports saying the engine was ``treated with a white glove'' in it's life. She has something like ~110k miles, and I am M1 and Mobil filters (as the Toy 41010s don't fit) running between 10-12k miles between changes.

 

[calamaridog]

Using the M1209 I cross referenced to a Wix 51516. Using the Wix number I cross referenced to a Donaldson P550400. Donaldson is a commercial systems manufacturer that has a reputation for making good stuff. I can't prove that they are better than ‘XYZ’ brand, but I'm willing to bet they are not inferior in most cases.

The diameter specs for this Donaldson appear to be the same as the stock Toyota 90915 I have in my hand, and my local Caterpillar dealer (where I have had oil analysis done on other engines) has Donaldson’s in stock for $7.25 each. They are about 1-inch longer according to the specs, not night & day, but notable. I plan to buy a couple.

I believe WIX makes a fine filter as well (WIX invented the spin on oil filter BTW), specifically the WIX labeled ones, but finding them is not always easy. I find the M1-209 all over the place and they run about $10. Spendy but worth it for the extended drain interval I run.

The important thing is to make sure the internal specifications are the same.

 

[Redline]

I agree. I like and have used Wix filters often in the past. I use their air filters in my F350. Do you have or know where to find the specs on the M1 209 filter? The specs for the Wix 51516 and Donaldson P550400 seem very similar, but of course they are the results of cross reference searches.

I'm not against Mobil 1 have used Mobil 1 oil often in the past. (I particularly like Delvac 1 5w-40 diesel oil.) I'm not sure all of ExxonMobil's marketing is as meaningful for us gearhead enthusiasts. I want tech data if I can find and understand it, not just advertising claims. I believe some of Mobil’s synthetic oil formulations have changed recently, not coming from the same base stocks, but that is a weak memory from months ago reading on site.

I will gladly pay a couple bucks more for the M1 209 it is a better filter than the Toyota, Wix, or Donaldson. Maybe we need to have a filter cutting party?

I believe WIX makes a fine filter as well (WIX invented the spin on oil filter BTW), specifically the WIX labeled ones, but finding them is not always easy. I find the M1-209 all over the place and they run about $10. Spendy but worth it for the extended drain interval I run.

The important thing is to make sure the internal specifications are the same.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I believe WIX makes a fine filter as well (WIX invented the spin on oil filter BTW), specifically the WIX labeled ones, but finding them is not always easy.

NAPA filters are made by WIX (NAPA Gold is usually the exact equivalent to the WIX number for an application). I've also bought WIX brand filters at my NAPA and just about any auto and truck parts store worth their weight will have access to a WIX distributor.

 

[Redline]

That's a fact, and one of the advantage of. Basically available everywhere through Napa stores.

NAPA filters are made by WIX (NAPA Gold is usually the exact equivalent to the WIX number for an application). I've also bought WIX brand filters at my NAPA and just about any auto and truck parts store worth their weight will have access to a WIX distributor.

 

[calamaridog]

NAPA filters are made by WIX (NAPA Gold is usually the exact equivalent to the WIX number for an application). I've also bought WIX brand filters at my NAPA and just about any auto and truck parts store worth their weight will have access to a WIX distributor.

WIX builds tons of filters that are rebranded and OEM and they are not all the same as the WIX or Napa Gold. I wouldn't hesitate to use either of those. I have about 10 M1 - 209's sitting around that I bought on sale so I'm good to go. They work on the Liberty too.

 

[calamaridog]

Good link for 2UZFE oil change interval:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=21945

 

[Pskhaat]

It's worth quite a lot Scott, thanks for the encouraging info. Have you had the 80 since new? Do you know it’s prior care history?

Actually, I should have specified I was talking about the Hundy I picked the Hundy up at ~70k with no knoweldge of its past life, so the 3 analyses I've had on her have come up outstanding.

As for my 80 I have had it since she was 1yo, so for the most part know every last detail on her trail of life, do also run M1 and the 61010 filters. When her head was off by Robbie he did make a comment about its cleanliness and asked if I ran syn though I was out-of-town to have noticed it myself. I am lucky in that my 80 has always been the ``expedition rig'' and has only really sees highway en route to adventures and off-highway stuff. The similar mileage I have on her though I would guess is much higher % of off-highway than most.

On all my vehicles I change the M1 every October, regardless of mileage. I am such a believer in M1 that the used drained oil from the Cruisers is put into my commuter car for a second life, and it is ticking better than ever at ~200k.

 

[Redline]

VERY interesting that your V8 has only been in your position since 70k. That means that ‘normal’, ‘typical’ maintenance before your got it and started running Mobil 1 didn't hurt it one bit

Actually, I should have specified I was talking about the Hundy I picked the Hundy up at ~70k with no knoweldge of its past life, so the 3 analyses I've had on her have come up outstanding.

As for my 80 I have had it since she was 1yo, so for the most part know every last detail on her trail of life, do also run M1 and the 61010 filters. When her head was off by Robbie he did make a comment about its cleanliness and asked if I ran syn though I was out-of-town to have noticed it myself. I am lucky in that my 80 has always been the ``expedition rig'' and has only really sees highway en route to adventures and off-highway stuff. The similar mileage I have on her though I would guess is much higher % of off-highway than most.

On all my vehicles I change the M1 every October, regardless of mileage. I am such a believer in M1 that the used drained oil from the Cruisers is put into my commuter car for a second life, and it is ticking better than ever at ~200k.