97heavyweight
Well-known member
That's what it feels like. I'm now waiting on a set of 80# ones. It also doesn't help that I don't know the weight of the roof.
I decided to build my own Pop Top camper
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VanIsle_Greg
I think I need a bigger truck!
Agreed on all counts... I wish I had gone a little heavier lift power on my struts, but it is not too bad. Might up them to 60# each at some point. They are all 40# now... and I dropped a LOT of weight off the roof. Looking good man.
97heavyweight
Well-known member
Had an amazing weekend camping out on the Olympic Peninsula. This is the first time i've been out with all the new changes.
My question for the collective whole is how do I insulate the metal framing so that it does not condensate? I was thinking of using some left over 2" wide VHB tape to bridge across the framing and attach to the insualtion on either side. This will also allow me to better attach the wood paneling.
I am open to all ideas though...
My question for the collective whole is how do I insulate the metal framing so that it does not condensate? I was thinking of using some left over 2" wide VHB tape to bridge across the framing and attach to the insualtion on either side. This will also allow me to better attach the wood paneling.
I am open to all ideas though...
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VanIsle_Greg
I think I need a bigger truck!
Good question...
Thermal transfer is a problem for a lot of metal framed builds. VHB might help provide a thermal break between the metal and the wood inside. Glad you are able to get out and use this camper... mine is still a work in progress. Sigh
Thermal transfer is a problem for a lot of metal framed builds. VHB might help provide a thermal break between the metal and the wood inside. Glad you are able to get out and use this camper... mine is still a work in progress. Sigh
97heavyweight
Well-known member
I suppose it's time to update my thread. I've been rocking and rolling on getting my truck and camper ready for my trip to AZ.
I've installed SPC UCAs and new tires. I'm now running 285/70 R17 BFG M/T and that required a body mount chop.
When I get to the expo I plan on replacing my old worn out smittybilt traction boards so I have them mounted on my roof rack.
This cleared some space inside to add a wire rack so I can hang some molle bags for extra storage.
I also added some hooks for hanging whatever I feel the need to hang.
The last thing I did and what is boggling my mind is add new struts. I decided to put them on the sides and mounted them internal to the camper so I could better figure out where they would end up before I drilled holes through the camper and mounted them externally. The top mount on all 4 is 8" from the frame, the bottom mount is 27.5" from the frame except the front passenger lower mount is at 26.75". I started to take various different measurements and the only thing off is how far the roof sits from the body of the camper. On all corners the height is 28.25" except the rear passenger is at 29". If these two weird measurements were on the same corner then problem solved, but since they are on different corners...I am confused.
I've installed SPC UCAs and new tires. I'm now running 285/70 R17 BFG M/T and that required a body mount chop.
When I get to the expo I plan on replacing my old worn out smittybilt traction boards so I have them mounted on my roof rack.
This cleared some space inside to add a wire rack so I can hang some molle bags for extra storage.
I also added some hooks for hanging whatever I feel the need to hang.
The last thing I did and what is boggling my mind is add new struts. I decided to put them on the sides and mounted them internal to the camper so I could better figure out where they would end up before I drilled holes through the camper and mounted them externally. The top mount on all 4 is 8" from the frame, the bottom mount is 27.5" from the frame except the front passenger lower mount is at 26.75". I started to take various different measurements and the only thing off is how far the roof sits from the body of the camper. On all corners the height is 28.25" except the rear passenger is at 29". If these two weird measurements were on the same corner then problem solved, but since they are on different corners...I am confused.
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VanIsle_Greg
I think I need a bigger truck!
Have fun!
97heavyweight
Well-known member
I have been using and abusing the ol girl and having fun. This past weekend I went out in to the wet n wild PNW and did some camping. The second night out it started to rain. Everything was good to go no leaks no issues so for sure the previous water intrusion I had seen after installing my solar panels was condensation...right? I packed up camp and headed off further east to escape the rain. I got to camp and found about a cup of water had leaked through the roof. This weekend I finally got up there and when I removed my solar panels I found a missing bolt!! I am still not sure why the bolt was missing, but new sealant and a bolt and my issues should be over!
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97heavyweight
Well-known member
I haven't done anything new to the camper other than use it and abuse it. I did some work to the truck however in the form of a lift and new wheels and tires. I went with an OME BP-51 lift with OME Dakar heavy springs in the rear. Also added some Wheeler's Off Road Bump Stops. The difference in the ride and handling of the truck is next level!! It is amazing and I wish i'd done it sooner. For the wheels I went with Nomad Wheels new Convoy in Salt color. They look like an old school bullet hole style steel rim. Those are wrapped with a set of BFG KO2s in 34x10.5/R17. Overall I love the look and she is ten times better on and off road than before!
Also note to self. Stay out of narrow overgrown trails. They hurt and make you sad!!
Also note to self. Stay out of narrow overgrown trails. They hurt and make you sad!!
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97heavyweight
Well-known member
97heavyweight
Well-known member
Let's talk seals. Who's used what? What worked and what didn't. Right now I am using a closed cell foam seal to some degree of usefulness, but recently in one corner it has been squeezed out from where it lives and sticks into the camper and with the rainy season coming up I need to replace.
I am going to go with a bulb seal, but I want to know what has worked for folks. I only have a 1" wide footprint so it can't be anything bigger than that.
I am going to go with a bulb seal, but I want to know what has worked for folks. I only have a 1" wide footprint so it can't be anything bigger than that.
Look to the commercial world, e.g. walk in freezers, high end commercial refrigeration, etc. Those types of seals are made to insulate and seal well. You will buy a seal once, not over and over again. There is a night and day difference between these types of seals and Chinesium bought from Amazon, Alibaba and eBay. Do it right, once and be done.
97heavyweight
Well-known member
Where were you 2 years ago. I'll look into that. I hadn't thought about that type. Thanks
97heavyweight
Well-known member
This is what I found and I think it will work great! Thanks again for the recommendation. This is exactly what I was envisioning. It's a vintage fridge replacement seal and like you said they aren't cheap. buy once, cry once.
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97heavyweight
Well-known member
This past weekend I pulled the camper off and removed the junk seal I bought. I think from the movement of the camper it was able to 'roll' out from between the camper and bed in the front corners. I also needed to properly seal up the area between the front and side bed rails better becasue driving in a rain would allow water in and the fix I made did not hold up.
I went with the above pictured gasket and it was easy to use and install and I believe the ridges on it will help with the adhesion to the glue and sealing up the gaps in the bed rails. I used Sikaflex 252 which is some really thick stuff. I would recommend getting an electric caulk gun. I used a clamp on the handle of mine to make it easier.
Lastly I moved the electrical panel so it will be fully encased into the couch storage right above the battery. Originally I was going to build a counter on the passenger side and a small storage area would have connected the couch and counter and the panel would have been hidden, but due to weight I decided to not build that.
I went with the above pictured gasket and it was easy to use and install and I believe the ridges on it will help with the adhesion to the glue and sealing up the gaps in the bed rails. I used Sikaflex 252 which is some really thick stuff. I would recommend getting an electric caulk gun. I used a clamp on the handle of mine to make it easier.
Lastly I moved the electrical panel so it will be fully encased into the couch storage right above the battery. Originally I was going to build a counter on the passenger side and a small storage area would have connected the couch and counter and the panel would have been hidden, but due to weight I decided to not build that.
