IM1RU's VMI Trailer (now with Trimbren 3500HD suspension)

[Jeepin Jason]

Is the awning an ARB awning? Reason I am asking is that extension you have off the side of one of them. Is that just the side shade with a pole attached to it to put it up in the air instead of at an angle? I was thinking about doing the same thing on the side of my awning with the ARB full awning room so that I would have a cover over the door.

 

[IM1RU]

Is the awning an ARB awning? Reason I am asking is that extension you have off the side of one of them. Is that just the side shade with a pole attached to it to put it up in the air instead of at an angle? I was thinking about doing the same thing on the side of my awning with the ARB full awning room so that I would have a cover over the door.

The awnings are Smittybuilt. ARB, Smittybuilt and CVT awnings are (as far as I can tell) identical. I've looked touched and played with all three. If they are different, I can't see it. The extension is something VMI did because the legs are not long enough to raise it up that high. You really can't angle it down to a level position at the drip edge due to the fact that the pivot point does not rotate in that manner. The pivots for the horizontal arms only rotate in a level plane to the mounting track (with a little play of course). Hope that answers your questions. If not.. I'll try again.

 

[Jeepin Jason]

Yes, thanks. ARB makes a shade/windbreak that comes off the side and is meant to go at about a 45 degree angle to the ground. I am going to see if I can add tall poles to it and use it as an awning off the side of the ARB awning so that it covers the entrance to the awning room.

 

[Ozarker]

Well IM1RU, now i'm addicted again to the trailer concept, very nice!

Good luck with growing your business, doesn't look like you'll need much luck with a good product!

 

[IM1RU]

Well IM1RU, now i'm addicted again to the trailer concept, very nice!

Good luck with growing your business, doesn't look like you'll need much luck with a good product!

Thanks Ozarker! I do love the trailer, but the business is not mine, nor am I involved in any way other than being a happy customer. I will however do what I can to get the word out for them.

 

[IM1RU]

Just finished adding 240 watts of solar panel goodness to the trailer.

http://www.zampsolar.com/product/deluxe-200-watt-rv-solar-kit-zs-200-30a-dx/

Basically it's this kit, but mine has 3, 80 watt panels.

The VMI boys can put this on for you as an option, but I didn't seem to have the foresight at the time.

 

[IM1RU]

Photo's of the solar kit installed.


The Roof Panels:
Mounted to 1 1/2" 6061 square tube aluminum, the square tube aluminum is mounted to the roof. (8 holes in stead of 36, also give a nice space to cleanly run the wire loom)

Wires underneath the panels:

Where it comes out of the roof channel inside the trailer:
The roof is down at this point, thus the baggy fabric.

Where it enters the battery box:
Directly below the above photo

The back of the control panel and fuse:

The control panel:

In keeping with everything else, all hardware was stainless, all sealants are marine 3M 5200, and 3M 4200, and all connections outside are heat shrink tubed and split loomed.

 

[Sb_Moto]

so i love this trailer. Makes me want to take my build in a completely different direction.

 

[SquatchGX]

Quick question as I am considering the canyon as well, the base model top only pivots up right? I see pictures like this and with roof up at all corners with little loft over galley. I would prefer the whole roof extending but not sure if that is in base price or add on.

 

[IM1RU]

Quick question as I am considering the canyon as well, the base model top only pivots up right? I see pictures like this and with roof up at all corners with little loft over galley. I would prefer the whole roof extending but not sure if that is in base price or add on.

Correct, the base model roof pivots from the hinges on the rear of the trailer. The full roof lift is a spendy option. Nothing against those who have it done that way, but I honestly don't see the need or use, not in the Canyon size anyway. The only useful place to stand is right in front of the door anyway. In my opinion the $$ are better spent on other options.... like solar.

 

[SquatchGX]

Thank you, do you mind if I ask a little more about the trailer? I would assume the jerry can holders and tire matching might be extra options but is there any other major differences between yours and the base? This so far is my favorite trailer option but I can't go too much over the base $25 k price range. My most likely upgrade would be solar depending on price.

 

[IM1RU]

The wheels I bought and shipped to them. They had the tires mounted. The Jerry can mounts they put on were the Smitty Built variety. I thought they would be fine, but didn't end up holding the cans like I hoped (it's not that they don't work), so I took them off and made my own.

I did upgrade to the larger fridge, added the cassette toilet, the dual AGM batteries, awnings, and Lock n Roll hitch, stabilizer feet, fold down galley table, and now of course, Solar. All in I ended up with about 4K in upgrades....before I did the solar. Were I to do it again, I'd go with the Timbren axleless suspension instead of the standard 3500# Dexter..... Which I am about to change over to.

My advise.... Do it once, do it right, bite the bullet and be happy forever. It's far better to do the upgrades while building.

 

[SquatchGX]

Thank you for your input, I am going to contact VMI to get some more info. I will also start another thread to ask for input on other options and upgrades that are necessary. I am most uncertain on the electrical requirements, only plan on minimal draw from things like fridge heater etc, no electronics like radio/tv/microwave. I figure my max is around $30k with options so this seems feasible. Any idea on interior dimensions? Going to go see a cricket as that is a possibility (though much lower on my list), wanted to see how we feel if it is close in size.

 

[IM1RU]

I also only have the fridge, and heater (which I've used once). I went with solar because I wanted indefinite power supply. In the desert the fridge works a lot, and I was getting about 4 days with the AGM batteries. Not enough for me. I don't wanna have to plug in, and now I don't have to. The bed is a Queen size when made up. All the dimensions are on their web site. I'm gonna say the inside wall to wall is 65".

 

[IM1RU]

So,

I bent the Dexter 3500lb axle. And here is the update for the Timbren install.

Finally after much work, sweat..... and of course blood, I've got the trailer done.

I had to fabricate mounting brackets for the inside of the trailer frame, as Timbren does not supply them.

I decided to reinforce the frame with 1/4" x 3" aluminum flat bar because of the holes in the frame from the previous suspension. After I welded on the reinforcements, drilled the holes and got the units mounted, I then had to mount the brakes, pack the bearings and mount the hubs. At that point I welded in the cross support tube which is 2" x 3" x 1/4" steel tube.

Then it was time to align the hubs. The spindles are attached via 4, 5/8" grade 8 bolts with self locking nuts. This process took a lot of time.... because I'm anal retentive when I build things. Got the hubs aligned with a toe in of 3/64". Spec is 0 - 1/16".

Now comes the blood. While aligning the hubs and torquing the bolts to 165 ft/lbs I managed to ********** my head on the suspension which of course required a trip to the insta-care for this... 3 staples in my head. Good God head wounds bleed a lot.

So after getting all the spindle bolts torqued, on go the wheels, brake wiring, and brake adjustment. All the wire is Marine grade 2 strand 14 ga. All the connections are the butt splice epoxy seal type. Then all connections are heat shrink tubed. Where I could (after the 2 into 1 connection) I then used split loom to further protect the brake wire.

Here are some shots of the process.

Clearance between the tire and the main pivot bolt of the suspension. Had to figure it out with the backspacing of the wheels to get it just right. Good guess I'm thinking.

All done

Out for the first test drive and final brake adjustment.

I've only done about 6 miles with it, but so far it tracks straight, rides really smooth, and stops well.

AND, now the trailer has a slight tongue down stance like it's supposed to. 21" from the ground to the bottom of the frame. 18" to the lowest spot on the undercarriage.

Time to go use this bad boy.