Imperial Outdoors Xplore XR22

Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
The following is an example of why I state they don't understand a quality lithium set up. The stage 3 package includes 3 360 Amp hrs Expion360 batteries that retail at $3,800 each.
The prototype x145 has these awesome batteries installed with wires instead of buying the $300 installation kit that includes bus bars running parallel. This rig is marked by ROA as the best off road trailer in the world and they and or IO don't know how to install correctly.

The IO way

Screenshot_20221008-151655_Chrome.jpgScreenshot_20221008-152721_Chrome.jpg
 

Treefarmer

Active member
Current X-22 owners may have issues due to it being (2) 190w Soft/Flexible panels while lithium batteries as you all know take a long time to charge, especially when the tent or the A/C blocks sunlight. It was a solar system designed for Lead Acid or AGM batteries, not really Lithium.
The New Xplore 145 and 195 are using hard panels basically covering the entire roof. In testing, the panels have put out a positive charge in mostly sunny/partly cloudy skies while running the A/C with all the lights on. With that being said I think the new customers will be happy with the ability of the new solar system compared to the old ones. The new Xplore is 100% different from the old Xplore. Well, 99% different because they use the same toilet.
The X195 with the max solar package is definitely an improvement over the X22. That said, the X195 solar system is one where people are paying top dollar for a solar system that is not top shelf. It may perform well enough for those customers with deep pockets and a lack of solar knowledge (or who don't really place much demand on their solar system). Just for a start from the limited photos and videos we've seen, there are large batteries wired without bus bars, solar panels that cover the whole space but aren't best of breed (with the space available you can easily 1,920W on top), the use of GoPower components, and the placement of sensitive electronics next to plumbing. Not to mention that a solar system of that size should really be designed around a 48V system rather than a 12V system (don't worry, you can still use 12V appliances in a 48V system). If I am paying that much for a trailer, I don't want to feel I need to upgrade/fix the solar system issues right off the bat. It's not a knock on IO or their dealers. We are full time hard users of our power system and have learned (sometimes the hard way) about solar options over the past eleven years. Our next trailer will be designed with everything except the manufacturer/dealer stock solar options. We'll do the solar design/install separately with help from people who are dedicated solar pros.
 

Treefarmer

Active member
The following is an example of why I state they don't understand a quality lithium set up. The stage 3 package includes 3 360 Amp hrs Expion360 batteries that retail at $3,800 each.
The prototype x145 has these awesome batteries installed with wires instead of buying the $300 installation kit that includes bus bars running parallel. This rig is marked by ROA as the best off road trailer in the world and they and or IO don't know how to install correctly.

The IO way

View attachment 746380View attachment 746381
Gee wiz. You made my point before I was even done typing it!?
 

CORVDealers

New member
From what I gather, they will be using Bus Bar in the production units, but the two current units are still considered prototypes/demos and they didn't have the bus bar at the time so to "rush it to the show" they used cables.
 

SlimPickens

New member
Hey there,

First post, new X22 owner as of last week (first trailer ever, fair weather roof tenter previously). I was told i got one of the last 2 off the production line before they stopped production. Trailer is coupled to a new f350 6.7 tremor.

Anyone know of a dedicated old school X22/XR22 forum? I have an allergy to social media so steer clear of it all with the exception of Utube/rumble for some DIYs, entertainment and info.

So the unit.... we picked it up in Utah, upgrades, 2000W inverter, 190W flexi solar panels (not sure if these are any good), 4 parallel 120A e360s, 30# prop tanks, prop tank heaters (draw about 8A, didnt use them much) thats about it of note. Put BFG KO2s on the trailer for winter, left the spares stock.

Pretty killer except.... We made our way back to Golden, BC, Canada where temps ranged from 10C/50F down to -20C/-4F and the particular unit we received didnt quite perform to what we thought we were getting based on the Utube vids and manufacturer specs. The furnace (set to 20C/70F) was on 90%+ of the time the first night with outside temps around 0C/32F, but this may have changed once the internal "shell" warmed up with consistent heat over the next 24 hours at that outside temp or warmer. The batteries, which sit under the boxed in area under the flip up bed, had about a 20% drop in amperage every single day with no new charge coming in. They went down to 10% when i plugged the unit into a 15A circuit a day before we got home, no charge, had it plugged into 30A RV plug when we did get home, no charge. Lifted the bed up to expose them to the 20C/70F internal temps for 12 hrs, no charge. Finally put a small fan forced space heater with a thermal dial around 20C/70F on top of the batteries overnight (horizontal orientation, take care if you do this that it has solid footing or functional tilt cutoff) and came out the next day and the batteries were charging and went back up to 480Ah later that day, phew, thought i was in for a serious troubleshooting solar system session. Being new to trailer camping and solar systems, found out lithium doesnt charge when they cool off to 0C/32F range temps and only discharge down to -20C/-4F. Boxed in area was in that 35F range according to the max air remote temp sensor.

The other major thing was the water lines also stopped circulating when i tried a quick shower, had to prime the pump via the winterizing line to get it circulating again, this happened three more times before i winterized, circulating antifreeze in the sink, bath sink and shower (outside shower frozen stiff, hopefully it was never used) and city line when i got home. Dropped some down the fresh tank inlet and gray tank obviously got some.

Wanted to relay the above because i could not find an x22 experience with the battery lack of charging anywhere like this on the interwebs (although i use duckduckgo and brave, no googul). The expion battery warmers do not look like they would fit the parallel kit and bar connection setup on the x22 so looks like an option is to rig up some tank pad heaters, switches and some rigid insulation around the battery bank. And the expion ones are $200USD each which is like $2000 in canuck pesos so not sure i want to cough up too much more after initial purchase.

I think there is also something not quite right about the furnace installation either to make this the actual efficient winter trailer it is marketed as. Havent looked into it too much but for sure the flip out stairs on the x22 leave a gap under the door for a whislin cold breeze to come through no matter how flush the stair plate is with the entrance floor. Covered that up with a rug and towel to limit that draft. But also the fresh air intake, cold air return and heat ducting does not appear ideal. Cold air and 4" heating duct (shortest run) are co-located, thermostat is right above the 4" duct and 2" ducting goes to the bathroom (shortest 2"), tank(s), and to the middle of the unit. I think in terms of electrical and the bulk of the heat takes the low resistance path out the short 4" duct and the cold air at the back of the unit is stagnant. 10% and air out setting on the maxair bathroom vent helped a bit.

Immediate upgrades i'd like to do, battery compartment supplemental heat, tongue jack swap (wabbly stock POS), stabilizers to actual load bearing jacks for side to side leveling, mattress (topper or just replace the thing, stock one didnt agree with my back), possibly reconfig the furnace ducting, saw a utube vid for a hot water diverter, this would be clutch to address the line circ issue (modify for auto temp sensing range) and a couple portable solar panels to chase the sun. Getting a couple 2200 honda gennys for parallel 30A support as needed.

Not sure if this post is making it to too many eyes so ill wind er up. Overall, killer unit. i dont think there is anything available quite like this (and somewhat affordable) and i believe i can get it to accommodate the temperatures i will be seeing here in the west rockies canukistan Dec to Mar, where it will range from -30C/-22F to -10C/50F (there will be a couple days between -30 and -40C/F). During this time I will be taking winter trips in the mountains for back country splitboarding and we are planning to head down to Arizona for the month of February (winging it, no idea what we are doing or what we are up to).

Thanks,
Slim
 

Raspy

Active member
Hey there,

First post, new X22 owner as of last week (first trailer ever, fair weather roof tenter previously). I was told i got one of the last 2 off the production line before they stopped production. Trailer is coupled to a new f350 6.7 tremor.

Anyone know of a dedicated old school X22/XR22 forum? I have an allergy to social media so steer clear of it all with the exception of Utube/rumble for some DIYs, entertainment and info.

So the unit.... we picked it up in Utah, upgrades, 2000W inverter, 190W flexi solar panels (not sure if these are any good), 4 parallel 120A e360s, 30# prop tanks, prop tank heaters (draw about 8A, didnt use them much) thats about it of note. Put BFG KO2s on the trailer for winter, left the spares stock.

Pretty killer except.... We made our way back to Golden, BC, Canada where temps ranged from 10C/50F down to -20C/-4F and the particular unit we received didnt quite perform to what we thought we were getting based on the Utube vids and manufacturer specs. The furnace (set to 20C/70F) was on 90%+ of the time the first night with outside temps around 0C/32F, but this may have changed once the internal "shell" warmed up with consistent heat over the next 24 hours at that outside temp or warmer. The batteries, which sit under the boxed in area under the flip up bed, had about a 20% drop in amperage every single day with no new charge coming in. They went down to 10% when i plugged the unit into a 15A circuit a day before we got home, no charge, had it plugged into 30A RV plug when we did get home, no charge. Lifted the bed up to expose them to the 20C/70F internal temps for 12 hrs, no charge. Finally put a small fan forced space heater with a thermal dial around 20C/70F on top of the batteries overnight (horizontal orientation, take care if you do this that it has solid footing or functional tilt cutoff) and came out the next day and the batteries were charging and went back up to 480Ah later that day, phew, thought i was in for a serious troubleshooting solar system session. Being new to trailer camping and solar systems, found out lithium doesnt charge when they cool off to 0C/32F range temps and only discharge down to -20C/-4F. Boxed in area was in that 35F range according to the max air remote temp sensor.

The other major thing was the water lines also stopped circulating when i tried a quick shower, had to prime the pump via the winterizing line to get it circulating again, this happened three more times before i winterized, circulating antifreeze in the sink, bath sink and shower (outside shower frozen stiff, hopefully it was never used) and city line when i got home. Dropped some down the fresh tank inlet and gray tank obviously got some.

Wanted to relay the above because i could not find an x22 experience with the battery lack of charging anywhere like this on the interwebs (although i use duckduckgo and brave, no googul). The expion battery warmers do not look like they would fit the parallel kit and bar connection setup on the x22 so looks like an option is to rig up some tank pad heaters, switches and some rigid insulation around the battery bank. And the expion ones are $200USD each which is like $2000 in canuck pesos so not sure i want to cough up too much more after initial purchase.

I think there is also something not quite right about the furnace installation either to make this the actual efficient winter trailer it is marketed as. Havent looked into it too much but for sure the flip out stairs on the x22 leave a gap under the door for a whislin cold breeze to come through no matter how flush the stair plate is with the entrance floor. Covered that up with a rug and towel to limit that draft. But also the fresh air intake, cold air return and heat ducting does not appear ideal. Cold air and 4" heating duct (shortest run) are co-located, thermostat is right above the 4" duct and 2" ducting goes to the bathroom (shortest 2"), tank(s), and to the middle of the unit. I think in terms of electrical and the bulk of the heat takes the low resistance path out the short 4" duct and the cold air at the back of the unit is stagnant. 10% and air out setting on the maxair bathroom vent helped a bit.

Immediate upgrades i'd like to do, battery compartment supplemental heat, tongue jack swap (wabbly stock POS), stabilizers to actual load bearing jacks for side to side leveling, mattress (topper or just replace the thing, stock one didnt agree with my back), possibly reconfig the furnace ducting, saw a utube vid for a hot water diverter, this would be clutch to address the line circ issue (modify for auto temp sensing range) and a couple portable solar panels to chase the sun. Getting a couple 2200 honda gennys for parallel 30A support as needed.

Not sure if this post is making it to too many eyes so ill wind er up. Overall, killer unit. i dont think there is anything available quite like this (and somewhat affordable) and i believe i can get it to accommodate the temperatures i will be seeing here in the west rockies canukistan Dec to Mar, where it will range from -30C/-22F to -10C/50F (there will be a couple days between -30 and -40C/F). During this time I will be taking winter trips in the mountains for back country splitboarding and we are planning to head down to Arizona for the month of February (winging it, no idea what we are doing or what we are up to).

Thanks,
Slim
Slim, Go the the Facebook page: Xplore 22 trailer community. There are over 400 members and the page is dedicated to camping, trailer upgrades and problem solving. A great bunch of people. I have an X22 and have done about 50 mods to it. ROA has done two videos of my trailer.
 

Raspy

Active member
Hey there,

First post, new X22 owner as of last week (first trailer ever, fair weather roof tenter previously). I was told i got one of the last 2 off the production line before they stopped production. Trailer is coupled to a new f350 6.7 tremor.

Anyone know of a dedicated old school X22/XR22 forum? I have an allergy to social media so steer clear of it all with the exception of Utube/rumble for some DIYs, entertainment and info.

So the unit.... we picked it up in Utah, upgrades, 2000W inverter, 190W flexi solar panels (not sure if these are any good), 4 parallel 120A e360s, 30# prop tanks, prop tank heaters (draw about 8A, didnt use them much) thats about it of note. Put BFG KO2s on the trailer for winter, left the spares stock.

Pretty killer except.... We made our way back to Golden, BC, Canada where temps ranged from 10C/50F down to -20C/-4F and the particular unit we received didnt quite perform to what we thought we were getting based on the Utube vids and manufacturer specs. The furnace (set to 20C/70F) was on 90%+ of the time the first night with outside temps around 0C/32F, but this may have changed once the internal "shell" warmed up with consistent heat over the next 24 hours at that outside temp or warmer. The batteries, which sit under the boxed in area under the flip up bed, had about a 20% drop in amperage every single day with no new charge coming in. They went down to 10% when i plugged the unit into a 15A circuit a day before we got home, no charge, had it plugged into 30A RV plug when we did get home, no charge. Lifted the bed up to expose them to the 20C/70F internal temps for 12 hrs, no charge. Finally put a small fan forced space heater with a thermal dial around 20C/70F on top of the batteries overnight (horizontal orientation, take care if you do this that it has solid footing or functional tilt cutoff) and came out the next day and the batteries were charging and went back up to 480Ah later that day, phew, thought i was in for a serious troubleshooting solar system session. Being new to trailer camping and solar systems, found out lithium doesnt charge when they cool off to 0C/32F range temps and only discharge down to -20C/-4F. Boxed in area was in that 35F range according to the max air remote temp sensor.

The other major thing was the water lines also stopped circulating when i tried a quick shower, had to prime the pump via the winterizing line to get it circulating again, this happened three more times before i winterized, circulating antifreeze in the sink, bath sink and shower (outside shower frozen stiff, hopefully it was never used) and city line when i got home. Dropped some down the fresh tank inlet and gray tank obviously got some.

Wanted to relay the above because i could not find an x22 experience with the battery lack of charging anywhere like this on the interwebs (although i use duckduckgo and brave, no googul). The expion battery warmers do not look like they would fit the parallel kit and bar connection setup on the x22 so looks like an option is to rig up some tank pad heaters, switches and some rigid insulation around the battery bank. And the expion ones are $200USD each which is like $2000 in canuck pesos so not sure i want to cough up too much more after initial purchase.

I think there is also something not quite right about the furnace installation either to make this the actual efficient winter trailer it is marketed as. Havent looked into it too much but for sure the flip out stairs on the x22 leave a gap under the door for a whislin cold breeze to come through no matter how flush the stair plate is with the entrance floor. Covered that up with a rug and towel to limit that draft. But also the fresh air intake, cold air return and heat ducting does not appear ideal. Cold air and 4" heating duct (shortest run) are co-located, thermostat is right above the 4" duct and 2" ducting goes to the bathroom (shortest 2"), tank(s), and to the middle of the unit. I think in terms of electrical and the bulk of the heat takes the low resistance path out the short 4" duct and the cold air at the back of the unit is stagnant. 10% and air out setting on the maxair bathroom vent helped a bit.

Immediate upgrades i'd like to do, battery compartment supplemental heat, tongue jack swap (wabbly stock POS), stabilizers to actual load bearing jacks for side to side leveling, mattress (topper or just replace the thing, stock one didnt agree with my back), possibly reconfig the furnace ducting, saw a utube vid for a hot water diverter, this would be clutch to address the line circ issue (modify for auto temp sensing range) and a couple portable solar panels to chase the sun. Getting a couple 2200 honda gennys for parallel 30A support as needed.

Not sure if this post is making it to too many eyes so ill wind er up. Overall, killer unit. i dont think there is anything available quite like this (and somewhat affordable) and i believe i can get it to accommodate the temperatures i will be seeing here in the west rockies canukistan Dec to Mar, where it will range from -30C/-22F to -10C/50F (there will be a couple days between -30 and -40C/F). During this time I will be taking winter trips in the mountains for back country splitboarding and we are planning to head down to Arizona for the month of February (winging it, no idea what we are doing or what we are up to).

Thanks,
Slim
More info: I removed my stairs and use a Little Giant two step. Much better. The stock water pumps fail at a very high rate. The problem is the connection of the strainer. It is not a threaded connection and it leaks air in so the pump loses prime and cannot get it back while sucking in air. You can get better strainers with pipe threads on Amazon and you can warrantee the pump. I upgraded my tongue jack to an "Ultimate Jack" Much better. I replaced the poor hitch with a 4.5 tonne McHitch. from McHitch.us. I also replaced the mattress and posted the one I installed. I am the one who designed and installed the hot water diverter and it is a marvelous upgrade. Set your hot water temp in the water heater for 108 degrees. The solar is not properly installed and it's performance is very low. I took mine off and upgraded the system to 660 watts. We are now off grid completely. Come on over to Xplore 22 Trailer Community on Facebook.
 

Raspy

Active member
Hey there,

First post, new X22 owner as of last week (first trailer ever, fair weather roof tenter previously). I was told i got one of the last 2 off the production line before they stopped production. Trailer is coupled to a new f350 6.7 tremor.

Anyone know of a dedicated old school X22/XR22 forum? I have an allergy to social media so steer clear of it all with the exception of Utube/rumble for some DIYs, entertainment and info.

So the unit.... we picked it up in Utah, upgrades, 2000W inverter, 190W flexi solar panels (not sure if these are any good), 4 parallel 120A e360s, 30# prop tanks, prop tank heaters (draw about 8A, didnt use them much) thats about it of note. Put BFG KO2s on the trailer for winter, left the spares stock.

Pretty killer except.... We made our way back to Golden, BC, Canada where temps ranged from 10C/50F down to -20C/-4F and the particular unit we received didnt quite perform to what we thought we were getting based on the Utube vids and manufacturer specs. The furnace (set to 20C/70F) was on 90%+ of the time the first night with outside temps around 0C/32F, but this may have changed once the internal "shell" warmed up with consistent heat over the next 24 hours at that outside temp or warmer. The batteries, which sit under the boxed in area under the flip up bed, had about a 20% drop in amperage every single day with no new charge coming in. They went down to 10% when i plugged the unit into a 15A circuit a day before we got home, no charge, had it plugged into 30A RV plug when we did get home, no charge. Lifted the bed up to expose them to the 20C/70F internal temps for 12 hrs, no charge. Finally put a small fan forced space heater with a thermal dial around 20C/70F on top of the batteries overnight (horizontal orientation, take care if you do this that it has solid footing or functional tilt cutoff) and came out the next day and the batteries were charging and went back up to 480Ah later that day, phew, thought i was in for a serious troubleshooting solar system session. Being new to trailer camping and solar systems, found out lithium doesnt charge when they cool off to 0C/32F range temps and only discharge down to -20C/-4F. Boxed in area was in that 35F range according to the max air remote temp sensor.

The other major thing was the water lines also stopped circulating when i tried a quick shower, had to prime the pump via the winterizing line to get it circulating again, this happened three more times before i winterized, circulating antifreeze in the sink, bath sink and shower (outside shower frozen stiff, hopefully it was never used) and city line when i got home. Dropped some down the fresh tank inlet and gray tank obviously got some.

Wanted to relay the above because i could not find an x22 experience with the battery lack of charging anywhere like this on the interwebs (although i use duckduckgo and brave, no googul). The expion battery warmers do not look like they would fit the parallel kit and bar connection setup on the x22 so looks like an option is to rig up some tank pad heaters, switches and some rigid insulation around the battery bank. And the expion ones are $200USD each which is like $2000 in canuck pesos so not sure i want to cough up too much more after initial purchase.

I think there is also something not quite right about the furnace installation either to make this the actual efficient winter trailer it is marketed as. Havent looked into it too much but for sure the flip out stairs on the x22 leave a gap under the door for a whislin cold breeze to come through no matter how flush the stair plate is with the entrance floor. Covered that up with a rug and towel to limit that draft. But also the fresh air intake, cold air return and heat ducting does not appear ideal. Cold air and 4" heating duct (shortest run) are co-located, thermostat is right above the 4" duct and 2" ducting goes to the bathroom (shortest 2"), tank(s), and to the middle of the unit. I think in terms of electrical and the bulk of the heat takes the low resistance path out the short 4" duct and the cold air at the back of the unit is stagnant. 10% and air out setting on the maxair bathroom vent helped a bit.

Immediate upgrades i'd like to do, battery compartment supplemental heat, tongue jack swap (wabbly stock POS), stabilizers to actual load bearing jacks for side to side leveling, mattress (topper or just replace the thing, stock one didnt agree with my back), possibly reconfig the furnace ducting, saw a utube vid for a hot water diverter, this would be clutch to address the line circ issue (modify for auto temp sensing range) and a couple portable solar panels to chase the sun. Getting a couple 2200 honda gennys for parallel 30A support as needed.

Not sure if this post is making it to too many eyes so ill wind er up. Overall, killer unit. i dont think there is anything available quite like this (and somewhat affordable) and i believe i can get it to accommodate the temperatures i will be seeing here in the west rockies canukistan Dec to Mar, where it will range from -30C/-22F to -10C/50F (there will be a couple days between -30 and -40C/F). During this time I will be taking winter trips in the mountains for back country splitboarding and we are planning to head down to Arizona for the month of February (winging it, no idea what we are doing or what we are up to).

Thanks,
Slim
A possible fix for the battery low temp cutoff is to cut in a muffin fan right in front of the batteries, on the vertical front face of the bed. Then cover the top and left and right sides of the battery bank with a blanket or Harbor Freight moving blanket. This would blow warm room air directly on the batteries. You have to leave the furnace on in cold weather, even when towing, to protect the water system. The water heater is the first thing to have a freeze problem. And leave the bathroom door closed, or almost closed during heating, or the hot air will not reach the thermostat and the fridge will get all the heat, which make it struggle and run a lot.
 

SlimPickens

New member
Raspy, wow, nice responses. Thanks so much for taking the time. Eager beaver here trying to figure stuff out. All the logic i have a decent grasp on but the applications to a trailer are all new too me so half my blabber is out of my rear end
- For facebuhk, darn, unfortunately that is probably my worst social media allergy. No old school forums or is this thread it?
- The diverter video, beauty, well done.
- furnace on while travelling, you bet, left it at 60F, may be excessive but those 30#ers take a while to put a dent in the volume, threw a couple gauges on each and tank 1 still has plenty after 6 days of 70F and sub freezing temps, tank 2 full
- Strainer, perfect, thanks for the note, thought it was a partial ice plug between tank and pump inlet, but the strainer connection weakpoint is more realistic, didnt clue in when it came off so easy
- stairs, will be gone if i get frustrated enough
- solar, roof panels wont quite work at my latitude for alot of the year, plan to incorporate portable angled supplemental panels at minimum while stationary, gennys would be JIC but I also use them for other purposes so good backup.
- hitch, mchitch is a definite future upgrade, lock and roll is sufficient for now (just barely, lol)
- battery warming, great solution, might use that short term. Long term I want to keep a relatively even heat distribution along the perimeter of the bank to radiate inward and also suck some cabin air in and push some cold air out of the battery bank and controller area. All switched of course.
 

Raspy

Active member
Raspy, wow, nice responses. Thanks so much for taking the time. Eager beaver here trying to figure stuff out. All the logic i have a decent grasp on but the applications to a trailer are all new too me so half my blabber is out of my rear end
- For facebuhk, darn, unfortunately that is probably my worst social media allergy. No old school forums or is this thread it?
- The diverter video, beauty, well done.
- furnace on while travelling, you bet, left it at 60F, may be excessive but those 30#ers take a while to put a dent in the volume, threw a couple gauges on each and tank 1 still has plenty after 6 days of 70F and sub freezing temps, tank 2 full
- Strainer, perfect, thanks for the note, thought it was a partial ice plug between tank and pump inlet, but the strainer connection weakpoint is more realistic, didnt clue in when it came off so easy
- stairs, will be gone if i get frustrated enough
- solar, roof panels wont quite work at my latitude for alot of the year, plan to incorporate portable angled supplemental panels at minimum while stationary, gennys would be JIC but I also use them for other purposes so good backup.
- hitch, mchitch is a definite future upgrade, lock and roll is sufficient for now (just barely, lol)
- battery warming, great solution, might use that short term. Long term I want to keep a relatively even heat distribution along the perimeter of the bank to radiate inward and also suck some cabin air in and push some cold air out of the battery bank and controller area. All switched of course.
I do recommend Facebook for the page I recommended. Very valuable and no BS. There is also another page called Caravan Specialties that is also dedicated to similar stuff, but more specifically to Black Series. My friend has been working on a solar tacker for RVs you might be interested in. I can link it later if you wish. Two muffin fans, one in and one out, or just one in with another hole to exhaust the area would be fine for the batteries, I think. But there is no pressure build up that has to be relieved because the area is not sealed from the rest of the cabin. Yeah, that diverter is one of the best mods I've done and is very useful. So is the Separret brand "Tiny" toilet, with pee plumbed to the gray tank. A huge upgrade over the Laveo. The stairs are the most impractical setup I've ever seen. And the shower curtain is also a wonderful upgrade. Moving the propane to the rear allowed for the second storage box, with highlift jack internal mount, and has proven to be a very convenient way to store often used equipment such as jack pads and such. And finally, the dc-dc charger with Anderson plug to charge from the truck. I have no interest in carrying or using a generator, and I run the AC off the batteries for hours if needed. Did you see the "50 mods" video that ROA did on my trailer?
 

Obsessed2findARuggedHybid

Well-known member
I continue to see folks post about issues on thier x22 and xr22. Some rave about IO customer service while others are at wits end and may even be involved in law suites. Dealers post videos stating that just because you spend up words of 100k on trailers they "will" have issues. Comparing this point to folks buying high end cars that still have problems. I believe that is a false comparison. So you buy a Ferrari and something goes wrong and needs to be repaired. Does Ferrari say well that's transmission so that warranty is not our fault so call them. Or would I have to be without a car for six months. No they would give you a loner and warranty the car.

Am I wrong here?
 

Raspy

Active member
I
I continue to see folks post about issues on thier x22 and xr22. Some rave about IO customer service while others are at wits end and may even be involved in law suites. Dealers post videos stating that just because you spend up words of 100k on trailers they "will" have issues. Comparing this point to folks buying high end cars that still have problems. I believe that is a false comparison. So you buy a Ferrari and something goes wrong and needs to be repaired. Does Ferrari say well that's transmission so that warranty is not our fault so call them. Or would I have to be without a car for six months. No they would give you a loner and warranty the car.

Am I wrong here?
It is absolutely critical that everyone buys from a reputable dealer. If you do, the warrantee issues will be handled with no BS and they will have the ability to fix stuff.

We all want the best price, that's a given. But that can be a trap. And price does not equal good service or warrantee. In other words, a good price can come with a good service, but if someone is only shopping price, then they get what they get with service. Everyone should do some research on dealers and feel confident they can get good help if needed.

Some dealers plan to make more money on the sale by being reimbursed for warrantee work by the factory. This gives them an incentive to not fix stuff during any pre delivery inspection and it gives them reason to get prior approval before doing any work. These two factors set up the customer for frustration. A quality dealer will fix minor issues during pre-delivery and fix warrantee problems immediately, and then seek reimbursement from the factory. This means they have a good relationship with the factory and that the factory itself is reputable.

Also, many of these new caravan style trailers are built different than the way dealers are used to. They just sell them, but don't understand them. That is a huge red flag. Select a dealer that uses these trailers themselves, has an understanding of the systems and a shop that works on them. Then get down to business on pricing.

Buy from a dealer you like and would want to visit again. Too often the buying experience is so unpleasant. A battle. Or handled by people you may not trust. It does not have to be that way and it it likely there will be problems, as so many trailers have some kind of problem during the warrantee period.
 
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