interior panel / door insulation

[corax]

My old 4runner was never very well insulated even from new - it's a bit drafty, the interior cools off quickly and takes awhile to get everything warmed up in cold weather (heater works fine).

I've been reading recently about using Thinsulate as a sound absorbing material in the hopes of using it for the interior side panels - Toyota already uses it on the Prius, and it's also common in marine applications. My thoughts being that it's lighter than Dynamat or other products, is somewhat moisture resistant and serves a dual function without having to be glued or adhered onto the panels (a plus if you ever have to get behind it to run wires, etc). The only downside is that for any sound deadening it seems you should have at least 1" thickness. So sandwiching it between the interior panel and the metal structure is probably out, and I can't think of any slick way to secure it on the outboard side of the metal structure so it doesn't just fall down into a pile.

In the process of looking at Thinsulate, I ran into InsulBrite. This is much thinner (less than 1/16") so it will fit between tight fitting panels better, though I don't think it'll deaden sound as much.

Insul~Bright consists of hollow, polyester fibers needlepunched through a nonwoven substrate and through a reflective metalized poly film. The needled material is breathable and won’t break down with washing. The hollow fibers resist conduction while the reflective metalized poly film resists radiant energy. The energy, hot or cold, is reflected back to its source.

Before I buy more material and get started on the rear panels, what are my options for making the inside a bit cozier in cold weather?

Here's what I did with the doors so far, with the space-blanket part facing the interior of the vehicle:

 

[Ruined Adventures]

Perfect timing. I just removed all of my rear interior and I'm getting ready to improve the insulation and sound dampening...I bought some eDead 45, but it's very thin so I feel like I need to layer something else in there. I'm trying to find some rubber or vinyl flooring to replace the carpet, but the only stuff local I've found is on a 72" roll @ $2.99/linear foot :Wow1:

 

[adi]

This is also something I'm interested in. I have been planning on putting sound deadener down this summer (currently -3F outside). However I also plan to sleep in my SUV, so getting some thermal protection would be nice as well, from both cold and hot climates.

Looking at other builds, the slide in campers can get away with diesel fired heaters and rigid 1" insulation, but I haven't found much on retrofitting insulation into an existing SUV past commercial sound deadening. It will be easy to isolate my sleeping platform from any "bad" thermal mass, but it would be nice to have more control over the entire vehicle's comfort.

Still doing research, but a layer of sound deadening and a layer of closed cell insulation might be the only option for the majority of panels.

 

[vanroth]

I'm in the process of doing much the same, but with a focus on sound deadening on my Tracker. The Disco with the 50k mile MT's is a lost cause right now.

What I'm doing right now -

1) Adding Fatmat foil backed butyl to all side panels (doors, door cards, etc). This won't do much for a thermal barrier, but does wonders on reducing vibrations and "tinny"-ness.

2) Injecting two-pack closed cell structural foam into A-B-C pillars. If you go this route, make sure pull any wires you may want for the future use first. Some inject structural foam along the rockers, but I would be concerned with potential drainage/rust issues -- I will be leaving a good 12" of space between the foam and the floor pan to allow for ventilation and drainage.

3) Adding loaded rubber/vinyl flooring (in my case over the carpeting).

4) Add foil covered bubble insulation between the headliner and the steel roof. You might be able to use this to add to the side panels as well.

 

[Ruined Adventures]

3) Adding loaded rubber/vinyl flooring (in my case over the carpeting).

Have you found a source for the flooring? I've been looking to do the same.

 

[corax]

another product I was looking at, possibly for the floor and/or sides (though it could also work for the roof): InsulTek

* 1/4" thick core of polyethylene foam with aluminum foil bonded to both sides.
* Will not absorb moisture.
* Reduces noise level by 40%
* Insulates against heat and cold.
* Flame retardant.

 

[PirateMcGee]

I'm curious about this aswell as my runner is leaky

 

[Deleted member 9101]

I just added two rolls of generic sound deadening from Amazon.com to my doors on my truck.. love it!!!

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007P4IQ0/ref=oss_product"]Amazon.com: Elemental Designs eDead 80 Sound Deadening - 20Sq. Ft.: Musical Instruments[/ame]

Shipping was a little slow.. but I am guessing the weather had an impact on it. the stuff is really sticky, and once its in place.. its not coming off. I did all four doors, and when ever I get a chance I am going to do behind the read read and under the carpet. I really want a suede headliner, so I'll probably do the roof when its accessible.

On a side note, expanding foam works really well in A pillars and in all kinds of cracks and crevices. I knwo for a fact it will stop a good amount of rattles from a high powered stereo system.

 

[herm]

you could try glueing refletex to your panels. it has a good radiant barrior, but i am not sure how much thermal insulation it would add.

 

[vanroth]

Have you found a source for the flooring? I've been looking to do the same.

I haven't purchased any, but amazon has some. Certainly pricey.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-J-10SHBL-SheetBlok-10x4x0-125-Mass-Loaded/dp/B0002D05O6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=musical-instruments&qid=1297310291&sr=8-1"]Amazon.com: Auralex J-10SHBL SheetBlok 10'x4'x0.125 Roll of Mass-Loaded Vinyl in Black Only: Musical Instruments[/ame]

Here is some 2lb stuff which is twice as thick. http://www.soundisolationstore.com/mass-loaded-vinyl-mlv-2-lb.html

 

[Deleted member 9101]

I haven't purchased any, but amazon has some. Certainly pricey.

Amazon.com: Auralex J-10SHBL SheetBlok 10'x4'x0.125 Roll of Mass-Loaded Vinyl in Black Only: Musical Instruments

Here is some 2lb stuff which is twice as thick. http://www.soundisolationstore.com/mass-loaded-vinyl-mlv-2-lb.html

From the second link: "MLV is not known for as a strong performer in low frequencies".... no buneo if you have a good stereo...lol

 

[jesusgatos]

I painted the whole interior of my Tacoma with SecondSkin, and bought a really nice carpet kit from stockinteriors.com. Filled my A and B-pillars with expanding foam, laid down some insulating flashing tape under the carpet, and have been fitting insulating foam panels to the roof and back wall of the cab (to be covered with carpet and a custom vinyl headliner. Not sure whether some of this stuff will make any difference, but figured it couldn't hurt. This is a fully-caged vehicle and transmits a lot of noise and vibration. Just wanted to see what I could do to improve on nothing without spending a ton of cash.

 

[evldave]

For my Suburban, I used lots of sprayfoam (I think it came out to 15 cans total) in all walls. First, though, I ran 1/2" PVC pipe and all wiring so I could expand/change later. Not only did it act as thermal barrier, it stiffened the structure a lot.

For the floor, doors and roof, I used HVAC insulation, it was like $13/roll at HD. I ran 2-3x layers, and just cut out where handles, knobs, etc went. I also replaced all the weatherstripping (critical to stop drafts). I was able to comfortable camp in 10F weather w/2 adults and 2 dogs in Idaho on a hunting trip. I think total cost might have been around $3-400 total for everything, but it was well worth it as the truck (a 1988 Sub) drove as quiet and comfortable as my BMW, and was a great camping rig!

 

[jesusgatos]

Good idea on the wiring. I did something like that too.

 

[threepiece188]

I want to caution everyone who is using expanding foam in the steel structure of their vehicles. I have been colecting old trucks of the same make and model for some time and have noticed that the two most rusty (by far) ones that I have seen have had this foam injected as part of a previous repair. It seems that if given a chance, the foam will absoarb moisture and hold on to it. Im not sure this would happen with a closed cell product.

Also keep in mind that doing repair work on a vehicle that has this foam will be more difficult.