Interior wall/ceiling covering

[Inyo_man]

I'm current exploring options for wall and ceiling covering for an OVRLND camper.
...What are folks using in their campers?
I'm open to all suggestions, but hoping to keep it light, easy to keep clean, and durable.

Looked at Coroplast. It's light and easy to keep clean, but appears as though it might not hold up well over time.
Thought about "door skin", (thin plywood). It looks great, holds up over time, but not very light.
Carpet Squares... They look good, hold up over time, not that light, and hard to keep clean.

If anyone is using Coroplast, please let me know how it's holding up.
This is by far the most inexpensive of the categories above.

Cheers

 

[Inyo_man]

Thanks for the response.
That is a great suggestion!
I'll add ABS to the list of possible materials.
Do you have any experience using the product, tirod3?

Cheers

 

[86scotty]

I would definitely use thin ABS over Coroplast. Anything like Coroplast, even at 1/8 to 1/4" is slowly but surely boxing you in more. Use something thin. I prefer different things on different surfaces, even within the walls. Headliner material, carpet or some kind of upholstery is good for ceilings to cushion your head smacking it on occasion, at least if you are tall or have a low ceiling. Solid, smooth surfaces like ABS are good for kitchen areas. Carpet/upholstery also cushions and prevents rattles in certain places along the walls, as in behind a cabinet, cubby or bin. Maybe not a problem in truck camper world, huge problem in van world.

 

[plh]

ABS / FRP from Menards is what I plan to use

 

[97heavyweight]

I used Luan Plywood held in place with VHB tape on my build. It's pretty light and held up great.

 

[plh]

I used Luan Plywood held in place with VHB tape on my build. It's pretty light and held up great.

Did you coat it with a varnish of some sort?

 

[Ozarker]

Coroplast is tuff stuff! I have some I use for odd jobs/covers but I know of a 4x8 sheet that is the backing for an outdoor sign, it's been up for 12+ years! I don't know how you could hurt that stuff inside of a camper.

ABS is good, but can crack, chip and break, I'd say fairly tuff stuff but make sure it's glued well to secure it.

If you're going to use carpet, use marine/auto carpet as it resists mold and mildew better than interior carpets. Don't use any jute backed carpet in a camper, it can stink, mildew, holds mold and burns well when dry.

Speaking of carpet, I would use hemmed marine grade carpet with snaps along the sides so it could be removed for cleaning, otherwise I wouldn't have carpet of any kind.

Might consider going to a sign shop, one in my area has vinal sheet goods used for outdoor signs, it comes in various colors and they have pictured scenes printed on them, like animals, forest scenes, desert scenes, mountains, etc. This stuff is used on coroplast for outdoor/indoor signs.

 

[ExpoMike]

I have bought FRP for my M1010 project. I was able to find a company that offered some colors other than white and I could get them in 9' lengths so I can do the walls/roof in one piece length wise (interior is 106"). I still have to use multiple panels width wise.

 

[KellyM]

I have carpet squares over rigid foam. The carpet has not been a problem at all in terms of keeping it clean, and my truck bed is not well sealed so I get dust inside all the time. I like the carpet for attaching things with Velcro. If I had it to do over again, I would do something like 1/4" Luan covered in automotive carpet. But that's just me.

 

[97heavyweight]

I used Luan Plywood held in place with VHB tape on my build. It's pretty light and held up great.

Nope. Just cut it to size and attached it. It even got wet occasionally from condensation and never had issues. It's typically made of mahogany i think. If you are in the Western Washington area i even have some extra laying around you can have.

 

[simple]

I used polyethylene corrugated plastic (basic sign material) on the interior of a trailer project that I'm working on. Full sheet runs of it distorts and gets rumply when it heats up. It's not the same corrugated plastic material as used in automotive applications.

I had a sprinter van with a corrugated plastic liner in the back. It was dimensionally stable but also a lot heavier material. Slotted holes held in with plastic tree clips.

 

[Inyo_man]

Thank you to all that have chimed in with ideas and suggestions!
I'll continue adding possible products to my list.

Cheers

 

[dstefan]

Coroplast is tuff stuff! I have some I use for odd jobs/covers but I know of a 4x8 sheet that is the backing for an outdoor sign, it's been up for 12+ years! I don't know how you could hurt that stuff inside of a camper.

ABS is good, but can crack, chip and break, I'd say fairly tuff stuff but make sure it's glued well to secure it.

If you're going to use carpet, use marine/auto carpet as it resists mold and mildew better than interior carpets. Don't use any jute backed carpet in a camper, it can stink, mildew, holds mold and burns well when dry.

Speaking of carpet, I would use hemmed marine grade carpet with snaps along the sides so it could be removed for cleaning, otherwise I wouldn't have carpet of any kind.

Might consider going to a sign shop, one in my area has vinal sheet goods used for outdoor signs, it comes in various colors and they have pictured scenes printed on them, like animals, forest scenes, desert scenes, mountains, etc. This stuff is used on coroplast for outdoor/indoor signs.

I’m with Ozarker on this. I finished my Ovrlnd walls with Coroplast over 1/4’“ double sided reflective closed cell foam over 3 years ago. It’s holding up fantastic. It weighs little, and is very tough (that’s why the Post Office uses it for their mail bins), cheap, and easy to work with. True it flexes a bit, but so will other thin coverings and it won’t break. It’s also easily paintable and bonded with VHB and RTV silicon caulk/adhesive. I have adhesive velcro stuck all over my walls and it holds well and supports BROG bags, etc.

I’ve also built super lightweight drawers out of that have survived a few "fall-out’s” on rough off-road trails while fully loaded. It can be creased and folded and you can even make hinges and flaps by cutting one surface along the flutes. While it will distort if you are careless with a heatgun while heat sealing wiring (ask me how I know this . . .) that is also a feature as you can heat and form it to curves and substantially strengthen it. I did this years ago for a wind fairing. It’s a great material if you learn how to work with it. You can even buy Coroplast with a grey carpeted face if you like (though not at Home Depot). There’s also heavier weight/thicker versions.

 

[Inyo_man]

destefan, Thank you for the great feedback on Coroplast.
I'm starting to lean in that direction a bit now that I've heard that it is standing the test of off-highway travel.

How are folks adhering it to the walls and ceiling?
If I go this route, I'm thinking about screwing it with lath, self-tapping screws (they are affordable and the large head will hopefully keep it from pulling through the Coroplast).

Cheers

 

[NOPEC]

destefan, Thank you for the great feedback on Coroplast.
I'm starting to lean in that direction a bit now that I've heard that it is standing the test of off-highway travel.

How are folks adhering it to the walls and ceiling?
If I go this route, I'm thinking about screwing it with lath, self-tapping screws (they are affordable and the large head will hopefully keep it from pulling through the Coroplast).

Cheers

Inyo man
Your timing for using Coroplast is excellent due to the large number of political lawn signs made of it that will be availabe in the coming months. If you are quick and even braver, you can have an endless variety of colors, themes, sizes, etc. all for free!

Now, if you survive or chose to go with a different source, I have used and would recommend what are known as "countersunk or finishing" washers which would work very well on attaching Coroplast. Good luck!