Ozrockrat
Expedition Leader
I figured it might be a bit light that’s why I went with the economy donut spare tire. ?Bevan, do you think that wood frame is a little right for holding up your MRAP spare wheel?
International 3800 adventure bus build
- Thread starter AdventureBus
- Start date
AdventureBus
Active member
Here’s a little sneak peek into the rear impact protection/tow bar I’m building for the back of the bus. It has the original tow hooks and an 8-ton Reese pintle-hitch/tow ball combo. The whole unit will pivot up if it drags and will not decrease the rear departure angle. It will be pinned into position when towing to eliminate the pivoting action.
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AdventureBus
Active member
It will pivot if it drags on something and will eventually get hydraulic cylinders to manually lift it or force it down and lift the back end for leveling, stabilizing, or changing a tire.
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AdventureBus
Active member
The only thing I plan on towing will be the TOAD vehicle. My thoughts were to fix the hitch setup at the same angle as the tow bar which will be at a slight downward angle from the bus.
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AdventureBus
Active member
I haven’t been able to spend as much time on the bus lately because I just started working again. I’ll post a few pics and see if any of you can guess what I did recently.
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shortbus4x4
Expedition Leader
Top to bottom,
Moved the rack forward
Fuel screw
Governor springs
Bumped the timing up
What do I win?
Moved the rack forward
Fuel screw
Governor springs
Bumped the timing up
What do I win?
AdventureBus
Active member
You get an attaboy and a congratulations. You are correct. I also removed the exhaust all the way except the down pipe from the manifold.
I also got all of the rear framework welded out and turned both 3” x 6” x 72” rectangular tubes for the frame into sealed reservoirs. I air tested both of them. One will be an air tank and the other will be a hydraulic fluid tank.
I mounted the rear hitch assembly for the last time. I added a sliver of thin-walled pvc pipe as a shim to eliminate rattles and sloppiness. I had to drive the 3” x 38” hinge pin in with a sledgehammer. I was afraid it would be too stiff to swivel as intended until I pumped dome grease into it with the zerk fitting I added in the center.
I cut out a horseshoe shaped notch in both rear frame rails for the hitch assembly to be able to pivot completely flush with the bottom of the frame. In other words, the hitch will not decrease the departure angle in the least bit.
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I also got all of the rear framework welded out and turned both 3” x 6” x 72” rectangular tubes for the frame into sealed reservoirs. I air tested both of them. One will be an air tank and the other will be a hydraulic fluid tank.
I mounted the rear hitch assembly for the last time. I added a sliver of thin-walled pvc pipe as a shim to eliminate rattles and sloppiness. I had to drive the 3” x 38” hinge pin in with a sledgehammer. I was afraid it would be too stiff to swivel as intended until I pumped dome grease into it with the zerk fitting I added in the center.
I cut out a horseshoe shaped notch in both rear frame rails for the hitch assembly to be able to pivot completely flush with the bottom of the frame. In other words, the hitch will not decrease the departure angle in the least bit.
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shortbus4x4
Expedition Leader
What did you bump the timing too? Do you have a pyro and boost gauge? What are you doing for exhaust? Watch out for fumes in the bus depending on how you run the exhaust, carbon monoxide is dangerous. Nice build.
AdventureBus
Active member
I don’t have a timing light to check how far I advanced the timing. The sprocket was at one extreme end of its adjustment in the slotted holes when I started. I marked around one of the bolts with a paint pen and advanced it about 1/16 of an inch which was too much. It ran fine at low RPM but would sputter and cut out in upper RPMs. I then began to retard the timing until it ran smooth at all RPMs. I will be installing a boost gauge and a Pyro eventually but I have not done that yet. I will probably turn the exhaust out the side of the bus right behind the front stairwell.
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baipin
Active member
I haven’t been able to spend as much time on the bus lately because I just started working again. I’ll post a few pics and see if any of you can guess what I did recently.
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Fully mechanical DT466, or a 466E? Wonderful engines either way!
Did you have any concerns with welding the frame rails, or is that not really an issue considering it's past the axles?
AdventureBus
Active member
Fully mechanical baby! That was a must have for me. I really want to build a rig that has electronics for comfort amenities without needing them to move it down the road. That is also why I want to put a manual transmission in it. Less things to break.
I worked in a locomotive rebuild shop for 4 years where we repaired main frames using a fish-plate technique. This is also what is used to modify or repair heavy truck frame rails.
You mentioned that the splice is behind the rear axle. I think that part of the frame is under less stress than the areas between the front and rear axles or where the spring perches are mounted. My design for the frame mod is a sound design and has quality welds so I don’t think it will give me any problems. The bus was originally designed to carry 4400 lbs of passengers behind the rear axle and I don’t think I’ll have that much weight back there.
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I worked in a locomotive rebuild shop for 4 years where we repaired main frames using a fish-plate technique. This is also what is used to modify or repair heavy truck frame rails.
You mentioned that the splice is behind the rear axle. I think that part of the frame is under less stress than the areas between the front and rear axles or where the spring perches are mounted. My design for the frame mod is a sound design and has quality welds so I don’t think it will give me any problems. The bus was originally designed to carry 4400 lbs of passengers behind the rear axle and I don’t think I’ll have that much weight back there.
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AdventureBus
Active member
I’m thinking about using some stimi money to purchase Monstaliner for the outside of the bus. I’m digging the color “All-Nighter”. Anyone have experience with the stuff? I’m interested in some long term reviews of its UV tolerance.
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