Introducing the “NEW” Alu-Cab Canopy Camper

gnel

Active member
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As you can see the jerry can holder is from AluCab. I use a wavian nato jerry can. Let me know if you need any other info. Oh and I really like this setup because of having my fuel filler on the same side I can use a 10 ft syphon hose and never have to move the jerry can.
 
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Aleja_333

Active member
In case anyone is interested, I'm selling my EXO table for the ACC. Post below.

 
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Redfernsoljah

GladiatorOverland
Hi all. i just got me a canopy camper in a colorado with goose gear and i am looking for your advice.
i want to a dualzone fridge/freezer but i am unsure what fits in the bulkhead area (i have the 13gal water tank installed) - id prefer a slide in the 60% rear seat delete but goose gear said that the one they make doesnt work/fit. unless yall know of one that does.

two questions, can you recommend a dualzone fridge/freezer that will fit snugly (id love to see some pics) and will i regret having a freezer due to extra power consumption?

i will be living in it full time and have a 100 hour battery fed by 210 of solar on a redarc system.

i tried searching the thread before writing this and didnt get any clear answers. thanks everyone!

With the goose gear top loading cabinets installed we where able to install the Dometic CFX3 95DZ fridge freezer combo with protective cover. Note: we did have to remove handles to ensure it dit properly. But you will need something to be able to move the fridge. So we macramed handles out if paracord and screwed them in. You can yse the handels to strap it down. We havent strapped it done and havent had any issues with it coming out as the clearances are pretty tight.
 

Redfernsoljah

GladiatorOverland
A couple folks have reached out for more info about parts used for this. Here is a quick write up and a couple more pictures:


The Alucab components of this install are:
Table: https://www.alu-cab.com/product/alu-table/
Bracket: https://www.alu-cab.com/product/table-bracket/

Additional hardware:

[EDIT] I received the new hardware and I think it works better.

4 - M8 x 1.25 ultra low profile socket head screw, 35mm length
4 - M8 x 1.25 hex bolts, 40mm long
4 - M8 Tee Nut inserts for wood, 11mm long
4 - 1" spacers, large enough for M8 bolt
4 - 0.75" spacers, large enough for M8 bolt.
2 - 3/8" x 1/2" long large flange aluminum rivets
1 - 3/16" x 3/8" long aluminum rivet


The table comes with a small aluminum plate attached at one end, which is designed to slide over and mate with the table bracket's anti-luce fastener. Remove this plate and keep all parts, you will relocate this plate off center. The existing hole can be closed with the single 3/16" x 3/8" long rivet.

Determine where you want the table brackets installed under the sleeping plaform, I chose as far forward as practicalto the middle cross-brace. The table bracket instructions will give you the recommended width between the 2. My install left me with 1/4" on each side. Once the location has been determined and marked, drill the 4 holes necessary for the m8 tee nuts. Install the tee nuts by hammering them into the top side of the sleeping platform, below the mattress. The brackets have long slotted holes so you can adjust the fore/aft position as desired. Attach the brackets to the bottom of the sleeping plaform using the hex bolts, with the spacers between the bracket and the sleeping platform.

The anti-luce fitting and bracket are then attached to the next cross-brace, just rear of the led light. I chose to offset to the driver side, in the hopes of avoiding the wiring that runs inside the brace. No issues encountered. The anti-luce bracket is attached via the large flange rivets. The light will need to be rotated completely forward or rearward for the necessary vertical clearance with the table.

The tightest tolerances seem to come from the head of the hex bolt (used to attach the table bracket) and the table itself. The bracket also can just barely come in contact with the ledge below the sleeping platform. In the hopes of making the table slide a bit more freely and not have contact with the legde below, I have invested in some ultra-low profile socket head screws (https://www.mcmaster.com/90358A029) that will give me the room to run a fender washer between the fastener and bracket, yet still be lower profile than just a normal hex bolt. Washers unnecessary and take you to same profile as a normal hex bolt. Skip them. I will also switch to a 3/4" spacer instead of 1" spacer, to move the bracket closer to the bottom of the sleeping plaform. This new hardware arrives later this week. I think it will be an improvemnent, but wanted to share the original hardware since that is what AVO shared with me.

Good luck and enjoy!

View attachment 765467View attachment 765468View attachment 765469View attachment 765470View attachment 765471View attachment 765472

Just saw this myself right after I installed the table kit after looking at how they did it at AVO. On their build (truck shop) though they did install the holding bracket backwards. I did install it very similarly but my spacers placed bracket right above the cross supports. .
 
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Redfernsoljah

GladiatorOverland
Anyone use these for the canopy doors? Electronic lock actuators that work with the Industrilias 2-398 Compression lock handles used on the alucab? Pictures for reference and link below. Also, could consider just getting actual pin actuators and having brackets made. Dont think it would be that difficult to do. Especially with all the electronic actuators kits and alarms I installed in my youth when I was a 12v mobile installer.

 

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fourfa

Observer
Thanks for linking those actuators - very interesting! I've been looking for ways to tie the rear locks into the truck's power lock system. If your truck had a power locking rear tailgate like mine (I'm guessing yes from your handle), getting the signal from the tailgate harness is pretty easy. This is the first I've seen that integrates into the latch itself, instead of adding additional interior power latches, bistable solenoids, or cable-actuated deadbolts
 

kb1ejh

Member
The side outlets in the zippered pouches are good. I just didn't like that the USB cords would stick out and could get damaged folding the bed panels up and down. Finally dug around and found some angles USB plug / extension cords that work well. L-com USB 3.0 Female to male Type A right angle left exit work well. Now I can plug a cable in to the extension and leave it there tucked away in the zippered pouch without fear of damaging the outlet or the cord. I can even leave then dangling down and use then with the top closed if needed.20230401_152652.jpg20230401_152749.jpg
 

Redfernsoljah

GladiatorOverland
The side outlets in the zippered pouches are good. I just didn't like that the USB cords would stick out and could get damaged folding the bed panels up and down. Finally dug around and found some angles USB plug / extension cords that work well. L-com USB 3.0 Female to male Type A right angle left exit work well. Now I can plug a cable in to the extension and leave it there tucked away in the zippered pouch without fear of damaging the outlet or the cord. I can even leave then dangling down and use then with the top closed if needed.View attachment 771661View attachment 771662

Thanks for reminding me that i need to get around to repairing my usb plugs up there. i dont know how my wife does it or did it. But inside of the usb portion broke on her side. My side I've always had issues with it being too loose. I like the extension idea. I really need to focus on these things while I am reworking our electrical. We wanted to have done before Moore Expo as we will be there showing off our build on 22/23 April in Springfield Missouri. But, due to other projects, issues getting parts and other unforeseen circumstances and injuries. It looks like this will be a project we will have to get worked on when the stars align this year. In the mean time weve done lots of upgrades to the camper. I will be posting some trvirws of the items weve added like the heat mattress over the factory, over the additional topper and megamat duo options. As well as many other things that are centric to our camp and lifestyle. Especially after our arctic trip. It seems like weve gotten a great handle on this platform its capabilities and limitations. Keep an eye out @gladiatoroverland. We would love to have you and the support @veteranoverlandproject.
 

camodog

Adventurer
Hey Folks, we made the very difficult decision to sell our canopy camper for the Gladiator. If you’re looking for one go to the classifieds section.
 

pdxfrogdog

Adventurer
Looking for some advice on how people are maintaining their water tanks. The placement of the water tank outlet(s) mean that there is an inch or so of water left in the tank that can't be easily drained. Wondering how hard I should try to get this remaining water out. The tank is going to sit unused for maybe a month or so between trips.
 

seatoskyexplorer

New member
Looking for some advice on how people are maintaining their water tanks. The placement of the water tank outlet(s) mean that there is an inch or so of water left in the tank that can't be easily drained. Wondering how hard I should try to get this remaining water out. The tank is going to sit unused for maybe a month or so between trips.
Currently facing the same issue right now. It definitely seems like a design flaw with the tank. My tank hasn’t been used since November and I’m going to sterilize it this week. In terms of getting the small amount of water out of the bottom I was thinking of disconnecting the breather and using an air compressor attached to the breather port to try and blow the water out. Not sure if that will work or not though! Would be interested to hear what others are doing to deal with this.
 

ccperkdog

New member
Currently facing the same issue right now. It definitely seems like a design flaw with the tank. My tank hasn’t been used since November and I’m going to sterilize it this week. In terms of getting the small amount of water out of the bottom I was thinking of disconnecting the breather and using an air compressor attached to the breather port to try and blow the water out. Not sure if that will work or not though! Would be interested to hear what others are doing to deal with this.
Could you maybe get a hose in there connected to a wet/dry vac like Shopvac? I also would love to hear what everyone with the water tank is doing for maintenance. I drain it as much as I can, on a reverse incline, if I’m not going to use it for a few weeks. But more often than not I find myself adding a few gallons of filtered water every week to use when out and about. Keeps it circulating.
 

fourfa

Observer
Anyone use these for the canopy doors? Electronic lock actuators that work with the Industrilias 2-398 Compression lock handles used on the alucab? Pictures for reference and link below. Also, could consider just getting actual pin actuators and having brackets made. Dont think it would be that difficult to do. Especially with all the electronic actuators kits and alarms I installed in my youth when I was a 12v mobile installer.


Well, I went for it. Ordered from Australia as the USD price for 4 actuators + control module seemed reasonable to me. (They added a 4x option for the Camper to their website at my request, instead of the 6x used by the plain canopy. Either with or without the remote control module.) Total $253 USD shipped to California with control box; arrived ~9 days after order.

The pin modules are smaller than they look on the website. I'm planning to power them up, take some current readings (curious how much standby current the controller draws), and start installing this weekend. From the instructions, it looks like you learn the lock/unlock signal from the vehicle keyfob (or use the little remotes that come with it). Or you can skip the control box entirely (saves ~$44 USD), and wire it to a power lock signal instead. No instructions or wiring diagrams for that - they say contact an electrician. The pins have only short wiring harnesses, same with the control box, so it's up to you to sort out the wiring in between. Doesn't need much wire gauge at 675mA stall current per actuator, and only momentary at that. Should be a fun project
 

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