Where is it mounted? What Jerry can holder works best with mount? Any pictures of it?Yep. What do you need to know?
Hi all. i just got me a canopy camper in a colorado with goose gear and i am looking for your advice.
i want to a dualzone fridge/freezer but i am unsure what fits in the bulkhead area (i have the 13gal water tank installed) - id prefer a slide in the 60% rear seat delete but goose gear said that the one they make doesnt work/fit. unless yall know of one that does.
two questions, can you recommend a dualzone fridge/freezer that will fit snugly (id love to see some pics) and will i regret having a freezer due to extra power consumption?
i will be living in it full time and have a 100 hour battery fed by 210 of solar on a redarc system.
i tried searching the thread before writing this and didnt get any clear answers. thanks everyone!
A couple folks have reached out for more info about parts used for this. Here is a quick write up and a couple more pictures:
The Alucab components of this install are:
Table: https://www.alu-cab.com/product/alu-table/
Bracket: https://www.alu-cab.com/product/table-bracket/
Additional hardware:
[EDIT] I received the new hardware and I think it works better.
4 - M8 x 1.25 ultra low profile socket head screw, 35mm length
4 - M8 x 1.25 hex bolts, 40mm long
4 - M8 Tee Nut inserts for wood, 11mm long
4 - 1" spacers, large enough for M8 bolt
4 - 0.75" spacers, large enough for M8 bolt.
2 - 3/8" x 1/2" long large flange aluminum rivets
1 - 3/16" x 3/8" long aluminum rivet
The table comes with a small aluminum plate attached at one end, which is designed to slide over and mate with the table bracket's anti-luce fastener. Remove this plate and keep all parts, you will relocate this plate off center. The existing hole can be closed with the single 3/16" x 3/8" long rivet.
Determine where you want the table brackets installed under the sleeping plaform, I chose as far forward as practicalto the middle cross-brace. The table bracket instructions will give you the recommended width between the 2. My install left me with 1/4" on each side. Once the location has been determined and marked, drill the 4 holes necessary for the m8 tee nuts. Install the tee nuts by hammering them into the top side of the sleeping platform, below the mattress. The brackets have long slotted holes so you can adjust the fore/aft position as desired. Attach the brackets to the bottom of the sleeping plaform using the hex bolts, with the spacers between the bracket and the sleeping platform.
The anti-luce fitting and bracket are then attached to the next cross-brace, just rear of the led light. I chose to offset to the driver side, in the hopes of avoiding the wiring that runs inside the brace. No issues encountered. The anti-luce bracket is attached via the large flange rivets. The light will need to be rotated completely forward or rearward for the necessary vertical clearance with the table.
The tightest tolerances seem to come from the head of the hex bolt (used to attach the table bracket) and the table itself. The bracket also can just barely come in contact with the ledge below the sleeping platform. In the hopes of making the table slide a bit more freely and not have contact with the legde below, I have invested in some ultra-low profile socket head screws (https://www.mcmaster.com/90358A029)that will give me the room to run a fender washer between the fastener and bracket, yet still be lower profile than just a normal hex bolt.Washers unnecessary and take you to same profile as a normal hex bolt. Skip them. I will also switch to a 3/4" spacer instead of 1" spacer, to move the bracket closer to the bottom of the sleeping plaform. This new hardware arrives later this week. I think it will be an improvemnent, but wanted to share the original hardware since that is what AVO shared with me.
Good luck and enjoy!
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The side outlets in the zippered pouches are good. I just didn't like that the USB cords would stick out and could get damaged folding the bed panels up and down. Finally dug around and found some angles USB plug / extension cords that work well. L-com USB 3.0 Female to male Type A right angle left exit work well. Now I can plug a cable in to the extension and leave it there tucked away in the zippered pouch without fear of damaging the outlet or the cord. I can even leave then dangling down and use then with the top closed if needed.View attachment 771661View attachment 771662
Currently facing the same issue right now. It definitely seems like a design flaw with the tank. My tank hasn’t been used since November and I’m going to sterilize it this week. In terms of getting the small amount of water out of the bottom I was thinking of disconnecting the breather and using an air compressor attached to the breather port to try and blow the water out. Not sure if that will work or not though! Would be interested to hear what others are doing to deal with this.Looking for some advice on how people are maintaining their water tanks. The placement of the water tank outlet(s) mean that there is an inch or so of water left in the tank that can't be easily drained. Wondering how hard I should try to get this remaining water out. The tank is going to sit unused for maybe a month or so between trips.
Could you maybe get a hose in there connected to a wet/dry vac like Shopvac? I also would love to hear what everyone with the water tank is doing for maintenance. I drain it as much as I can, on a reverse incline, if I’m not going to use it for a few weeks. But more often than not I find myself adding a few gallons of filtered water every week to use when out and about. Keeps it circulating.Currently facing the same issue right now. It definitely seems like a design flaw with the tank. My tank hasn’t been used since November and I’m going to sterilize it this week. In terms of getting the small amount of water out of the bottom I was thinking of disconnecting the breather and using an air compressor attached to the breather port to try and blow the water out. Not sure if that will work or not though! Would be interested to hear what others are doing to deal with this.
Anyone use these for the canopy doors? Electronic lock actuators that work with the Industrilias 2-398 Compression lock handles used on the alucab? Pictures for reference and link below. Also, could consider just getting actual pin actuators and having brackets made. Dont think it would be that difficult to do. Especially with all the electronic actuators kits and alarms I installed in my youth when I was a 12v mobile installer.