Introducing the “NEW” Alu-Cab Canopy Camper

[transalper]

I have a colorado...

Martin offroad makes a shorty rack now.

 

[pdxfrogdog]

Modified/installed an Alucab canopy table bracket so that I can store an Alucab table under the sleeping platform of my ALCC. Table can be stowed/removed when sleeping platform is raised or lowered. I talked to the nice folks at AVO who had teased this mod on their instagram feed late last year. They gave me a couple great tips which saved me lots of time.


sleeping platform raised:
View attachment 765036


sleeping platform lowered:
View attachment 765037

A couple folks have reached out for more info about parts used for this. Here is a quick write up and a couple more pictures:


The Alucab components of this install are:
Table: https://www.alu-cab.com/product/alu-table/
Bracket: https://www.alu-cab.com/product/table-bracket/

Additional hardware:

[EDIT] I received the new hardware and I think it works better.

4 - M8 x 1.25 ultra low profile socket head screw, 35mm length
4 - M8 x 1.25 hex bolts, 40mm long
4 - M8 Tee Nut inserts for wood, 11mm long
4 - 1" spacers, large enough for M8 bolt
4 - 0.75" spacers, large enough for M8 bolt.
2 - 3/8" x 1/2" long large flange aluminum rivets
1 - 3/16" x 3/8" long aluminum rivet


The table comes with a small aluminum plate attached at one end, which is designed to slide over and mate with the table bracket's anti-luce fastener. Remove this plate and keep all parts, you will relocate this plate off center. The existing hole can be closed with the single 3/16" x 3/8" long rivet.

Determine where you want the table brackets installed under the sleeping plaform, I chose as far forward as practicalto the middle cross-brace. The table bracket instructions will give you the recommended width between the 2. My install left me with 1/4" on each side. Once the location has been determined and marked, drill the 4 holes necessary for the m8 tee nuts. Install the tee nuts by hammering them into the top side of the sleeping platform, below the mattress. The brackets have long slotted holes so you can adjust the fore/aft position as desired. Attach the brackets to the bottom of the sleeping plaform using the hex bolts, with the spacers between the bracket and the sleeping platform.

The anti-luce fitting and bracket are then attached to the next cross-brace, just rear of the led light. I chose to offset to the driver side, in the hopes of avoiding the wiring that runs inside the brace. No issues encountered. The anti-luce bracket is attached via the large flange rivets. The light will need to be rotated completely forward or rearward for the necessary vertical clearance with the table.

The tightest tolerances seem to come from the head of the hex bolt (used to attach the table bracket) and the table itself. The bracket also can just barely come in contact with the ledge below the sleeping platform. In the hopes of making the table slide a bit more freely and not have contact with the legde below, I have invested in some ultra-low profile socket head screws (https://www.mcmaster.com/90358A029) that will give me the room to run a fender washer between the fastener and bracket, yet still be lower profile than just a normal hex bolt. Washers unnecessary and take you to same profile as a normal hex bolt. Skip them. I will also switch to a 3/4" spacer instead of 1" spacer, to move the bracket closer to the bottom of the sleeping plaform. This new hardware arrives later this week. I think it will be an improvemnent, but wanted to share the original hardware since that is what AVO shared with me.

Good luck and enjoy!

 

[renaud]

Nice, that actually sounds pretty close to how I want it set up. Who installed your camper / did the installer provide the regulator hose to female quick connect?

Hey
The camper was Installed by Cap It. but decided to deal with propane lines myself to keep things cheap after spending already way too much lol. Got the regulator to female Quick connect and male quick connect to the Dickinson on Amazon

 

[smbisig]

We worked with UpTOP Overland to make a rack option that worked with the Jeep Gladiator and the Alu-Cab Canopy Camper. Here is a picture of it.

You should give them a nudge and have them load it on the site with pricing. They would move a few as long as they are south of $800.

 

[rtcorbett]

Hi all. i just got me a canopy camper in a colorado with goose gear and i am looking for your advice.
i want to a dualzone fridge/freezer but i am unsure what fits in the bulkhead area (i have the 13gal water tank installed) - id prefer a slide in the 60% rear seat delete but goose gear said that the one they make doesnt work/fit. unless yall know of one that does.

two questions, can you recommend a dualzone fridge/freezer that will fit snugly (id love to see some pics) and will i regret having a freezer due to extra power consumption?

i will be living in it full time and have a 100 hour battery fed by 210 of solar on a redarc system.

i tried searching the thread before writing this and didnt get any clear answers. thanks everyone!

 

[smbisig]

Hi all. i just got me a canopy camper in a colorado with goose gear and i am looking for your advice.
i want to a dualzone fridge/freezer but i am unsure what fits in the bulkhead area (i have the 13gal water tank installed) - id prefer a slide in the 60% rear seat delete but goose gear said that the one they make doesnt work/fit. unless yall know of one that does.

two questions, can you recommend a dualzone fridge/freezer that will fit snugly (id love to see some pics) and will i regret having a freezer due to extra power consumption?

i will be living in it full time and have a 100 hour battery fed by 210 of solar on a redarc system.

i tried searching the thread before writing this and didnt get any clear answers. thanks everyone!

What vehicle do you have?

 

[rtcorbett]

Hi all. i just got me a canopy camper in a colorado with goose gear and i am looking for your advice.

 

[smbisig]

Thought you said you got the Camper "in Colorado." I have seen some people mount the Goose-Gear slide in the back of a Tacoma and it barely clears the rear doors. Not sure how close it would be on a Colorado. As for the fridge, there are some smaller dual zones on the market if you want to fit the slide. I believe that @Hourless Life has one mounted on the seat delete of their Gladiator.

 

[rtcorbett]

Thought you said you got the Camper "in Colorado." I have seen some people mount the Goose-Gear slide in the back of a Tacoma and it barely clears the rear doors. Not sure how close it would be on a Colorado. As for the fridge, there are some smaller dual zones on the market if you want to fit the slide. I believe that @Hourless Life has one mounted on the seat delete of their Gladiator.

saw that - optimally thats what set-up id like. their set-up inspired me but my door doesnt open wide enough at this point im trying to decide what fridge ill buy depending on how it fits under the water tank at the buklhead.

 

[clintium]

Has anyone seen an example of a good use of the space between the ACCC and the roof of the cab on a Tundra? I love my setup and generally the look of it. But that big dead space is pretty odd looking. And also it represents a pretty cool opportunity for storage. I’m sure it isn’t doing anything good for my gas mileage either.

I keep dreaming of something like a faring and possibly even a full enclosure. Imagining doors on either side so you could securely lock up gear in there. But the geometry between the roof of the tundra cab and the ACCC are quite different. CC has all the straight lines and the tundra is all curves. I also really want to mount starlink dishy generally in this region. Preferably behind the faring but obviously near the very top. I’d also love to take out the rear glass and replace with a panel of some sort for additional mounting points in my proposed storage area. Also it’s just useless and represents a risk of breaking in a world where I’ve built out my above cab enclosure.

Next up for me is re configuring my power system for permanent installation. Right now it’s in the 27 gallon tub shown in some of the photos.

Here are some photos of my adventures so far!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[smbisig]

Has anyone seen an example of a good use of the space between the ACCC and the roof of the cab on a Tundra? I love my setup and generally the look of it. But that big dead space is pretty odd looking. And also it represents a pretty cool opportunity for storage. I’m sure it isn’t doing anything good for my gas mileage either.

I keep dreaming of something like a faring and possibly even a full enclosure. Imagining doors on either side so you could securely lock up gear in there. But the geometry between the roof of the tundra cab and the ACCC are quite different. CC has all the straight lines and the tundra is all curves. I also really want to mount starlink dishy generally in this region. Preferably behind the faring but obviously near the very top. I’d also love to take out the rear glass and replace with a panel of some sort for additional mounting points in my proposed storage area. Also it’s just useless and represents a risk of breaking in a world where I’ve built out my above cab enclosure.

Next up for me is re configuring my power system for permanent installation. Right now it’s in the 27 gallon tub shown in some of the photos.

Here are some photos of my adventures so far!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think the best bet, and what I noticed a lot of the Toyota guys do, is to install a roof rack from someone like Sherpa or Prinsu. Gives you some light weight item storage and fills in the gap nicely. Both Sherpa and Prinsu seem to have a wind deflection built in so I might even help with aerodynamics a bit.

 

[Billincamo]

Price???

 

[Gabex35]

Has anyone seen an example of a good use of the space between the ACCC and the roof of the cab on a Tundra? I love my setup and generally the look of it. But that big dead space is pretty odd looking. And also it represents a pretty cool opportunity for storage. I’m sure it isn’t doing anything good for my gas mileage either.

I keep dreaming of something like a faring and possibly even a full enclosure. Imagining doors on either side so you could securely lock up gear in there. But the geometry between the roof of the tundra cab and the ACCC are quite different. CC has all the straight lines and the tundra is all curves. I also really want to mount starlink dishy generally in this region. Preferably behind the faring but obviously near the very top. I’d also love to take out the rear glass and replace with a panel of some sort for additional mounting points in my proposed storage area. Also it’s just useless and represents a risk of breaking in a world where I’ve built out my above cab enclosure.

Next up for me is re configuring my power system for permanent installation. Right now it’s in the 27 gallon tub shown in some of the photos.

Here are some photos of my adventures so far!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a front runner rack that breaks up the huge gap a good amount. I also have the alucab table under the ACCC so it helps a tiny bit.

 

[timsuchocki]

Hi all. i just got me a canopy camper in a colorado with goose gear and i am looking for your advice.
i want to a dualzone fridge/freezer but i am unsure what fits in the bulkhead area (i have the 13gal water tank installed) - id prefer a slide in the 60% rear seat delete but goose gear said that the one they make doesnt work/fit. unless yall know of one that does.

two questions, can you recommend a dualzone fridge/freezer that will fit snugly (id love to see some pics) and will i regret having a freezer due to extra power consumption?

i will be living in it full time and have a 100 hour battery fed by 210 of solar on a redarc system.

i tried searching the thread before writing this and didnt get any clear answers. thanks everyone!

Hey, there may be too many differences between your setup and my setup for this info to matter, but maybe it will help...

I have a Canopy Camper on a 2017 Toyota Tacoma (the one with four doors and a long bed). I took the back seats out and installed a non Goose Gear plywood platform. I have the dual zone IceCo VL60 fridge/freezer (https://icecofreezer.com/products/63-4qt-vl60-dual-zone-portable-fridge-with-cover) and bought the matching slide from IceCo as well. I mounted it behind the drivers seat and, with some careful positioning, it fits pretty well. It rubs the door slightly if I don't have it pulled open all the way and the lids don't stay open by themselves because the top of the door prevents them from opening all the way. But, it is a very workable solution for me and I really like it.

I have it wired to a patch panel in the camper (the wires go out the drain holes in the truck bed and up some bolt holes in the cab of the truck left open from taking the back seats out. It's powered by two 125AH AGM batteries that get their juice from 200 watts of solar on the roof and from the alternator when I'm driving. I've spent two Wisconsin summers fishing, camping and exploring with one side filled with Chaco Tacos (freezer set to 0 degrees) and the other side set to 40 degrees and I have never even come close to putting a dent in the batteries. The fridge/freezer is dual zone so each side can independently be used as either fridge, freezer, or off. To give an example of my power usage, on a HOT day I use about 30 AH running the fridge/freezer, a cpap machine, charging phone/ipad/laptop/headphones/bluetooth speakers/flashlights/ and lights inside and outside the camper.

 

[YBL1022]

anyone have jerry can holder mounted on the back molle panel?