Is a 3" OME high enough on a XJ?

[comrad_zeelaagee]

i have the re sf 3.5" full leaf pack... loaded down with gear (300#+) it still sits well, has great road manners for dd duties, and is very capable off road. i did add a tomken fuel tank skid and tnt customs bellly pan skid (best one out there bar none-covers both tc and trans- but for servicing tc/trans- it's an added step to get on and off and a bit of a chore).

ome has a great history- but i chose the RE stuff since their service and parts are right here in CA and i felt i got more for my money- the package is more complete. i can call there and get help if needed. i can upgrade parts when i choose/need and it will work with what i have-so i like the flexibility. installation instructions are pretty straight forward and pretty complete. a weekend with some buddies did the trick.

when the sway bar is disco'd the articulation is amazing from this little amount of lift.

i did have to put in a hack n tap sye for the 242 (really like the versitility of this tc) as i did get vibes in my '00 XJ... i also upgraded to adjustable lower control arms and an adjustable track bar (due to hole relocation drilling fail). i thik i paid $900 for all my suspension upgrades iirc... maybe a pinch more.

i can post some pics if you want... let me know. it's been 2 years and except for a minor thing or 2- it's been reliable as hell with minimal servicing. i'd definitely buy this kit again.

 

[AZTACO]

Wow thats impressive... Can you post the details on your lift. AZTACO

i had a 3" lift with 31" tires and did quite a bit of overlanding + off-roading.
i did have a limited slip in the rear that helped. obstacle size is limited, of course, but i think you would be able to do what you want - from what you said...
here's roughly what you can do, so you get an idea:

think that's enough?
than just go for it. it's a nice setup...
sven

 

[AZTACO]

Yes please post pics when you get a chance. You got me thinking about a RE lift vs. a OME based on your reasons.

i have the re sf 3.5" full leaf pack... loaded down with gear (300#+) it still sits well, has great road manners for dd duties, and is very capable off road. i did add a tomken fuel tank skid and tnt customs bellly pan skid (best one out there bar none-covers both tc and trans- but for servicing tc/trans- it's an added step to get on and off and a bit of a chore).

ome has a great history- but i chose the RE stuff since their service and parts are right here in CA and i felt i got more for my money- the package is more complete. i can call there and get help if needed. i can upgrade parts when i choose/need and it will work with what i have-so i like the flexibility. installation instructions are pretty straight forward and pretty complete. a weekend with some buddies did the trick.

when the sway bar is disco'd the articulation is amazing from this little amount of lift.

i did have to put in a hack n tap sye for the 242 (really like the versitility of this tc) as i did get vibes in my '00 XJ... i also upgraded to adjustable lower control arms and an adjustable track bar (due to hole relocation drilling fail). i thik i paid $900 for all my suspension upgrades iirc... maybe a pinch more.

i can post some pics if you want... let me know. it's been 2 years and except for a minor thing or 2- it's been reliable as hell with minimal servicing. i'd definitely buy this kit again.

 

[AZTACO]

Thanks everyone for the help, sorry it took a while for me to respond I was busy last week. I really appreciate the help, this is going to my first off-road vehicle that I can actually modify, wife approved the budget. I am going to be doing the install with a friend who knows what he is doing. I have never modified the suspension on anything so I am new at this whole thing and nervous so forgive my obvious inexperience.

So far I am onboard with plenty of armor, baselineing, and around a 3" lift, leaning toward the RE 3.5" superflex or a 2" OME,

More nagging questions:
I am trying to draw up a game plan for the process, but I am confused with the adjustable track bar, SYE, and control arms. From what I understand I may not need these things.

Should I just buy choose a lift, install it, and if I don’t have death wobble forget about the rest, or should I just buy the all that extra stuff and install them with the lift?

If I don’t get the death wobble and don’t put in the adjustable track bar, SYE, and control arms with I have problems later as a result?

Will moving the rear shock mounts up, be part of a standard lift or another mod?
Thanks again for the help, AZTACO

 

[Black Dog]

Chances are you're gonna get a death wobble. Pretty much everybody does, and for everyone the exact fix is different. On mine new tires and an alignment was all it took, but every once in a while on certain roads and at certain speeds I can kind of feel it starting a little bit but it isn't the terrifying violent shake like it use to be.

On a 2" lift you probably won't need the fixed yoke, but it wouldn't hurt to do it any way just to prevent future problems. And for the steering up front, again if it isn't broke don't fix it. But beefing it up and getting better quality parts will pay off in the long run. On a lower lift like this your stock control arms probably won't be an issue. Some guys get a little bit of binding with theirs where the lower attaches to the axle but it is nothing a grinder can't fix because there is extra metal there.

 

[Backwoods Rambler]

More nagging questions:
I am trying to draw up a game plan for the process, but I am confused with the adjustable track bar, SYE, and control arms. From what I understand I may not need these things.

Should I just buy choose a lift, install it, and if I don’t have death wobble forget about the rest, or should I just buy the all that extra stuff and install them with the lift?

If I don’t get the death wobble and don’t put in the adjustable track bar, SYE, and control arms with I have problems later as a result?

Will moving the rear shock mounts up, be part of a standard lift or another mod?

Thanks again for the help, AZTACO

The answer to some of those questions might depend on if this is currently your daily driver or a "spare" vehicle.

The shock mount thing is a seperate mod.

 

[winkosmosis]

Thanks everyone for the help, sorry it took a while for me to respond I was busy last week. I really appreciate the help, this is going to my first off-road vehicle that I can actually modify, wife approved the budget. I am going to be doing the install with a friend who knows what he is doing. I have never modified the suspension on anything so I am new at this whole thing and nervous so forgive my obvious inexperience.

So far I am onboard with plenty of armor, baselineing, and around a 3" lift, leaning toward the RE 3.5" superflex or a 2" OME,

More nagging questions:
I am trying to draw up a game plan for the process, but I am confused with the adjustable track bar, SYE, and control arms. From what I understand I may not need these things.

Should I just buy choose a lift, install it, and if I don't have death wobble forget about the rest, or should I just buy the all that extra stuff and install them with the lift?

If I don't get the death wobble and don't put in the adjustable track bar, SYE, and control arms with I have problems later as a result?

Will moving the rear shock mounts up, be part of a standard lift or another mod?
Thanks again for the help, AZTACO

With 2" lift you don't need an adjustable track bar, you don't need new LCAs, you don't need new shocks (unless you really want to take those poser articulation pictures), and you don't necessarily need the slip yoke eliminator.

The cost difference is huge. Plus the ride is better. 3.5" is getting to long arm territory.

 

[BIGdaddy]

With 2" lift you don't need an adjustable track bar, you don't need new LCAs, you don't need new shocks (unless you really want to take those poser articulation pictures), and you don't necessarily need the slip yoke eliminator.

The cost difference is huge.

Yup, just added around 1.5" - 2" to my 1992 Laredo, and I'm running 245 75r16's, no problem. None of the modifications you listed were needed.

I've got a set of 225 75r16's to put on soon, which I expect will clear the fenderwells even better.

 

[bat]

I would look into the actual lift you are going to get from OME and RE. Some of the RE stuff will give you more lift than 3.5" and if you go with OME you will get what you order. Go over to NAXJA they have some great info on stuff but be prepared they are really friendly .

 

[AZTACO]

I think I am pretty much sold on the 2" OME. My only concern is that i wanted to add heavy ARB Front and rear bumpers, wouldn't this lower the vehicle too much? If so, should I get the OME 3" (with spacers) and hope the bumpers lower it to around 2" so I dont need the "extras"? Also, from what I understand to fit 31" on a 2" OME lift I will need to cut the fenders correct? Thanks, AZTACO

 

[winkosmosis]

I have 31" on 2" OME, and I didn't cut my fenders. If I stuff the wheels they do contact the fenders, but I've only done that to pose for pics. I also have both front and rear sway bars.

Are you adding ARB bumpers right away? If not, how about getting the 2" springs, then adding spacers to the front, and MJ shackles to the rear when you get the bumpers? I think these JKS boomerang shackles add 1" or 0.75" lift http://www.trailwerks.com/servlet/the-1273/JKS-REAR-HEAVY-DUTY/Detail

Skid plates are more important than bumpers so they should come first anyway.

 

[comrad_zeelaagee]

you don't need new LCAs, you don't need new shocks.

The cost difference is huge. Plus the ride is better. 3.5" is getting to long arm territory.

I disagree whole heartedly. The stock LCAs are flimsey stamped sheet metal and the bushings are ridgid. My upgraded LCAs and articulating joints in my control arms will outperform stock CAs in any situation any day of the week. I can pull through 18" deep ruts and still keep the vehicle level in a fully loaded situstion- there's NO WAY you can do that without these components. Vehicle stability in these situations = safety.

I don't agree with the last statement either. Whild I could definitely see the benefit of long arms- I would only consider as much with surplus funds or an increase to 4.5".

before lift:

just after lift:

These aren't action shots I rarely get out to shoot my rig while travelling- but you get the idea. These were also take just before/after lifting- and the rear has settled nicely to more level with the front.

Andy

 

[winkosmosis]

3.5" is way too much lift for short arms IMO. That's a lot of stress on the weak unibody every time you hit a bump or pot hole.

 

[comrad_zeelaagee]

3.5" is way too much lift for short arms IMO. That's a lot of stress on the weak unibody every time you hit a bump or pot hole.

there are thousands of guys on NAXJA that run this type of setup or taller without long arms. how is this any different than stock? it make little sense to me, this opinion.

 

[comrad_zeelaagee]

I think I am pretty much sold on the 2" OME. My only concern is that i wanted to add heavy ARB Front and rear bumpers, wouldn't this lower the vehicle too much? If so, should I get the OME 3" (with spacers) and hope the bumpers lower it to around 2" so I dont need the "extras"? Also, from what I understand to fit 31" on a 2" OME lift I will need to cut the fenders correct? Thanks, AZTACO

2" will not hold up to these additions... you'll get back to stock height quickly... i woudld be reluctant to put this on my 3.5" kit.

you will definitely need to trim the fenders at the corners a touch for adding 31s.

death wobble is not a given- i din't experience this at all after my lift as much a drive line vibes... that was enough of a challenge.

seriously though- all these issues and more have been coveered a thousand times over on NAXJA- searching will provide mucho infomacion.