ITTOG's Truck Camper Build (was 6' x 12' Trailer Conversion)

[ITTOG]

I have been thinking about what is next for the camper. I kind of don't mind the interior unfinished but figure it is time. Generally speaking I am thinking of an L-shaped counter with drawers underneath and also having a sing with running water. I also need to figure out the electrical and plumbing. Anyone think of anything I am missing. Not necessarily what you would want on your build but anything missing that would be on 90% of peoples build.

So, for electrical I pulled together all my notes and have come up with this info. @Dave in AZ 's post at the link below has inspired my list so far.
https://forum.expeditionportal.com/...nd-light-ac-truck-campers.242227/post-3201946

12V and 120V Power Storage

• 100 AH AGM Battery for 12V, Shunt/Battery Monitor
• PECRON E3600LFP Portable Power Station 3600W 3072Wh (to be purchased) for 12 V and 120V

12V Generation

• Solar Panels/Charge Controller
• Shore Power
• DCtoDC Charger
• Two Renogy 100 watt solar panels
• Using all Blue Seas outlets, power distribution blocks, fuses

12V Consumption

• Charging: Cell phones, Drone, laptops, watch, ear buds,
  • Never needed yet but I do use two TENS units for hips and back when driving over two hours.
• Interior Lights
  • Strip
  • Pucks
• Water Pump
• MaxxAir Fan (eventually)
• Eventually a diesel or propane heater. Right now I just use a Mr Buddy.
• I have never done it but have thought about connecting my RV two camera system to the camper for surveillance at night. It is 12V.
• Eventually a fridge.
• Exterior red light by/on stairs with photocell and maybe timer
• Exterior white lights
• Water Heater

120V Generation (if required)

• Inverter
• Shore Power

120V Consumption (never needed but nice to have)

• Kettle
• DeWalt Power Tool Batteries

Parts
12 and 120 outlets, power distribution blocks, fuses
Battery on/off switch
Power switches: lights, pump, heater, etc




I need to add up all the power usage for these items.

 

[Dave in AZ]

@ITTOG what kind of camper is it? I can't remember your rig.
That pecron 3600 is very good, if you got a good one that is working. I'm still happy with my Pecron e1500LFP.

Depending on total electricity used, 200W may not be enoigh if you sit still for days.

 

[ITTOG]

@ITTOG what kind of camper is it? I can't remember your rig.
That pecron 3600 is very good, if you got a good one that is working. I'm still happy with my Pecron e1500LFP.

Depending on total electricity used, 200W may not be enoigh if you sit still for days.

Are you insinuating Pecron isn't a reliable brand? I only chose it because of the 12V supply and based on your reviews I felt it was the best fit. Should I switch to a different manufacturer? I am still working on figuring out my power needs. Also, where did you get 200W from? I didn't mention that number.

It is a home built slide in, pop top truck camper.

 

[Dave in AZ]

Are you insinuating Pecron isn't a reliable brand? I only chose it because of the 12V supply and based on your reviews I felt it was the best fit. Should I switch to a different manufacturer? I am still working on figuring out my power needs. Also, where did you get 200W from? I didn't mention that number.

It is a home built slide in, pop top truck camper.
View attachment 867314

View attachment 867315

I like the Pecrons. I am on two FB Pecron groups though, so of course I see complaints from all the folks who have had issues. A few folks got stations that arrived inop and had to get a replacement. Most all issues were resolved. But just from reading folks issues, now I like to make sure you test your unit upon arrival to ensure all works good. I have had 100% success with my 4 Pecron products, but am aware not everyone has.
Other producers I liked, Oupes and some Ecoflow, have similar if not more consumer complaints, so I can't really say anyone is better. As of now, after all my reading and powerstation test videos, I still like the Pecron e1500LFP and e3600LFP. The ports and specs for E1000LFP, e2400LFP, and e2000 are NOT as good, I would just look at the first two.

The 200W, in your 12v supply you stated two 100W renogy panels. I wasn't clear I was talking your panels there.

Some answers:
1. For your listed power needs, you look pretty low. With your current usage, the e1500LFP with 1536 Watt-hrs plus a 100Ah 12v LFP will work. If you see using more, the e3600LFP would be good. And the e3600 is better for home use too, but it's just heavy to move-- it is 79 lbs vs 40 lbs for the e1500LFP. For my truck, a Tacoma, it is too hard for me to lug 79 lbs around in there, and I don't have 40 lbs payload to waste if not needed. So e1500LFP for me, but NOT LESS.

2. I REALLY like a powerstation for truck camper, better than a full house battery+inverter+solar Controller setup! Your powerstation will remove the need for AC outlets, a solar charge controller, a lot of USB sockets. My mentality is to use powerstation as central-both charging and discharging-- and use LFPs as additional storage, charging them from the powerstation when it is being charged, not separately really. Unless your dcdc can do both powerstation and a battery at same time, like ETaker F2000.

3. Water pump... I was looking at a 12v pump system, like Dan Grec, with a tank and filter and on demand pump... then I saw the Dometic Go 11L jug with its USB charged pump faucet, and used it. Now I have abandoned all desire and plans for complex water system. The small usb charged battery operated faucet works great, with a magnetic base and a few metal plates. Way less complex. I am not going thru Africa needing a robust water filter and tank.

4. Water heater... 12v is a total failure here, don't even consider it. For an electric kettle AND any kind of water heating, you meed 120V. This need is about 1400W for most kettles, any water heater will be same. Your powerstation can supply that easily. My need for hot water is low enough that my 1.5L electric kettle easily supplies it. For showers etc I have a 2gal insulated jug, I can mix boiling and cold water to what I want. Then many ways to feed that for shower: another $12 usb battery pump from amazon, or even just gravity with a hand wand with valve. Honestly I'm not a huge shower fan while camping, I just don't like making mud and getting totally wet and wasting a ton of water. I do 2-4 days usually, so I have always got by with a jug of hot water and sponge bath kind of setup.
Anyways, the hot water pump/shower devices I've looked at either use externally heated water, or propane, or 120v.
5. 12v supply: if you drive every other day, then a dcdc charger, or actually a dcdc POWERSTATION CHARGER, can completely remove need for panels. These are just a 12v >> 42V or higher dcdc charger, which let you fast charge powerstations via their solar inputs. This is my current list of best, in order:
ETaker F2000 $360
ETaker F1000 $260
Bluetti charger One $250?
Pecron 500W car-charger $149
Ecoflow only if you have ecoflow station, $400-$600.

I have and like the Pecron one, works great, I have it set for 340W or so and 13.0V, which is as much as I want to stress alternator. In day with no weather, low alternator loads, I go 500W, so most times. I don't even carry my 460W of solar panels anymore, they are a weight and time waste for me... but I always drive at least every other day.

 

[ITTOG]

I like the Pecrons. I am on two FB Pecron groups though, so of course I see complaints from all the folks who have had issues. A few folks got stations that arrived inop and had to get a replacement. Most all issues were resolved. But just from reading folks issues, now I like to make sure you test your unit upon arrival to ensure all works good. I have had 100% success with my 4 Pecron products, but am aware not everyone has.
Other producers I liked, Oupes and some Ecoflow, have similar if not more consumer complaints, so I can't really say anyone is better. As of now, after all my reading and powerstation test videos, I still like the Pecron e1500LFP and e3600LFP. The ports and specs for E1000LFP, e2400LFP, and e2000 are NOT as good, I would just look at the first two.

The 200W, in your 12v supply you stated two 100W renogy panels. I wasn't clear I was talking your panels there.

Some answers:
1. For your listed power needs, you look pretty low. With your current usage, the e1500LFP with 1536 Watt-hrs plus a 100Ah 12v LFP will work. If you see using more, the e3600LFP would be good. And the e3600 is better for home use too, but it's just heavy to move-- it is 79 lbs vs 40 lbs for the e1500LFP. For my truck, a Tacoma, it is too hard for me to lug 79 lbs around in there, and I don't have 40 lbs payload to waste if not needed. So e1500LFP for me, but NOT LESS.

2. I REALLY like a powerstation for truck camper, better than a full house battery+inverter+solar Controller setup! Your powerstation will remove the need for AC outlets, a solar charge controller, a lot of USB sockets. My mentality is to use powerstation as central-both charging and discharging-- and use LFPs as additional storage, charging them from the powerstation when it is being charged, not separately really. Unless your dcdc can do both powerstation and a battery at same time, like ETaker F2000.

3. Water pump... I was looking at a 12v pump system, like Dan Grec, with a tank and filter and on demand pump... then I saw the Dometic Go 11L jug with its USB charged pump faucet, and used it. Now I have abandoned all desire and plans for complex water system. The small usb charged battery operated faucet works great, with a magnetic base and a few metal plates. Way less complex. I am not going thru Africa needing a robust water filter and tank.

4. Water heater... 12v is a total failure here, don't even consider it. For an electric kettle AND any kind of water heating, you meed 120V. This need is about 1400W for most kettles, any water heater will be same. Your powerstation can supply that easily. My need for hot water is low enough that my 1.5L electric kettle easily supplies it. For showers etc I have a 2gal insulated jug, I can mix boiling and cold water to what I want. Then many ways to feed that for shower: another $12 usb battery pump from amazon, or even just gravity with a hand wand with valve. Honestly I'm not a huge shower fan while camping, I just don't like making mud and getting totally wet and wasting a ton of water. I do 2-4 days usually, so I have always got by with a jug of hot water and sponge bath kind of setup.
Anyways, the hot water pump/shower devices I've looked at either use externally heated water, or propane, or 120v.
5. 12v supply: if you drive every other day, then a dcdc charger, or actually a dcdc POWERSTATION CHARGER, can completely remove need for panels. These are just a 12v >> 42V or higher dcdc charger, which let you fast charge powerstations via their solar inputs. This is my current list of best, in order:
ETaker F2000 $360
ETaker F1000 $260
Bluetti charger One $250?
Pecron 500W car-charger $149
Ecoflow only if you have ecoflow station, $400-$600.

I have and like the Pecron one, works great, I have it set for 340W or so and 13.0V, which is as much as I want to stress alternator. In day with no weather, low alternator loads, I go 500W, so most times. I don't even carry my 460W of solar panels anymore, they are a weight and time waste for me... but I always drive at least every other day.

Man, thanks for all the thoughts/ideas. I don't know as much in this area as I would like so you are helping a lot.

I figure all brands have issues these days. Not like it was just 20 years ago. But glad to hear you have not had issues.

The 200W was a pasting error. I should have removed that.

1. I am choosing the 3600 for its abilities to help at home as well. Not to mention it allows for a lot of expansion in the camper. Also, at this time I do not move much. I mainly go to my property and can spend anywhere from four to nine days there without moving or even starting my truck.

2. I think you have convinced me on the advantages of a power station. Once I use the camper more than four times per year, and if there is a need for changes, I can do that then. For now I don't need all the separate gear.

3. This is an area where I will go with complex. I want to be able to have a good and robust hot water system for my sink inside the camper and for an outdoor shower. I also want a lot of pressure so have been looking at 3 gpm pumps with 50 psi of pressure. I camp in single digits some times so good water flow is a must.

4. I will definitely use 120 v for the kettle. The 12V comments were for an external water heater station.

5. As mentioned above, I stay in one spot most of the time. Thus I am looking at two Pecron 300W solar panels.

 

[ITTOG]

Anyone have experience with wood decks on trailers. I was taking my truck camper off my trailer, aka transporter number two for the camper, and the wheels of the dolly fell through.

After inspecting all the boards were in bad shape. The trailer is only for years old.

So, I guess, I was asking about experience because I am wondering if trailers are typically sold with treated lumber. Four years seems really short, even though it sits outside in direct sunlight where it should be drying out pretty fast after rain.

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[Kingsize24]

That sucks!

Use treated lumber. Unfortunately to get costs down, alot of trailer manufacturers do not. You can mix diesel and used motor oil to help treat them when new and untreated. Its messy, but I've done it many times. Otherwise, spend a bit more for them to put in treated lumber.

Treated should get you at least 10yrs minimum. My last 20ft trailer is about the same age, has treated boards, and they are still looking new.

 

[ITTOG]

That sucks!

Use treated lumber. Unfortunately to get costs down, alot of trailer manufacturers do not. You can mix diesel and used motor oil to help treat them when new and untreated. Its messy, but I've done it many times. Otherwise, spend a bit more for them to put in treated lumber.

Treated should get you at least 10yrs minimum. My last 20ft trailer is about the same age, has treated boards, and they are still looking new.

Awesome, that was the response I was looking/hoping for. Yes the new wood is pressure treated and once it dries I will be applying a sealer. If it lasts ten years I will leave it as wood. But I was thinking if treated wood only lasts four years then I would replace it with a metal deck.

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[ITTOG]

I may get it blasted and painted with an industrial paint that will last. The OEM didn't use a primer and the paint is so thin you can almost see the steel behind it.

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[Kingsize24]

Yes. They cut corners where they can unfortunately. Sucks TBH. Glad you have a plan. 👍

 

[ITTOG]

Trying to get the wood dried out so I can apply the sealer. Not sure the heater and fan I am using will work given it has been so humid and rainy. May have to wait until this summer.

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

Sadly, many don’t. Unless you specifically look or order them that way. I also think you will find some of that stuff state/region specific. Southwest versus wet Washington, etc. Pressure treated works well, or just treating/sealing yourself.

I like the wood decks, and even cut the metal deck off my flatbed for a wood deck. I then coated it all with flex seal. Over a flat black paint. Some of the rubber paints get stupid slick in the rain, so there is that. But I agree with all above,

I should redo the deck in my stock trailer. But since I don’t have critters or horses anymore, its pretty low on the list. And the rubber trailer mats help.

 

[ITTOG]

Sadly, many don’t. Unless you specifically look or order them that way. I also think you will find some of that stuff state/region specific. Southwest versus wet Washington, etc. Pressure treated works well, or just treating/sealing yourself.

I like the wood decks, and even cut the metal deck off my flatbed for a wood deck. I then coated it all with flex seal. Over a flat black paint. Some of the rubber paints get stupid slick in the rain, so there is that. But I agree with all above,

I should redo the deck in my stock trailer. But since I don’t have critters or horses anymore, its pretty low on the list. And the rubber trailer mats help.

Why do you prefer the wood over metal?

I was thinking of putting something heartier like flex seal (going for polymeric coating) on the bottom of the boards.

 

[Kingsize24]

Why do you prefer the wood over metal?

I was thinking of putting something heartier like flex seal (going for polymeric coating) on the bottom of the boards.

I'd think adding a rubber membrane like flex seal at the bottom of the boards would make it rot faster, by trapping water at the bottom. Wood needs to breathe, but also needs to be treated for weather resistance. Be that by oil soaking, such as creosote, chemicals, or used oil with a penetrant. Either way it should be allowed to breathe, while doing whatever you can to prevent water from being trapped in areas where you are capable. JMHO

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

I like wood, because its easy to work with, replace. Wood also flexes, but not so audibly. The metal deck, flexed in the heat/cold, so it was noisy, as well as got very hot in the summer. Like not able to put my hand on it. So the dog/animals did not like it, and it was pretty slick.

I used flex seal on my wood deck, as well as the wood sides. It held up pretty well. But would chip at times, so once a year or so I would use the rattle can flex seal and hit exposed portions on the upper side. I did multiple coats. I would also agree, either waterproof/paint everything, or nothing. Versus just portions. I am not an expert though. I also flex sealed the entire stock trailer, (bare metal) and that’s held up well on the metal. But when I tried it on my underbody mounted box’s it did not work as well. But I doubt I did any surface prep for the underbody boxes. It was probably over the flat black paint.