ITTOG
Well-known member
The map is definitely a place special to me and the family.
ITTOG's Truck Camper Build (was 6' x 12' Trailer Conversion)
- Thread starter ITTOG
- Start date
Mules
Well-known member
The red stripe looks good. Maybe you can make it wider?
ITTOG
Well-known member
That isn't a bad idea. I will have to look into that. If they don't see my truck lights they aren't going to see lights on the camper. Also, 90% of the time when I have the camper on the truck I am toing a trailer. In addition, when I don't have the trailer on, I have lights on a stand that I put in my tow hitch and the lights are high and behind my camper.
The most it can be is about 2" because of the trim. I want to keep it subtle but 2" wouldn't be overkill. I may have to look at that.
Thanks for the input guys.
ITTOG
Well-known member
I went on another four wheeling trip recently and almost damaged my camper while loading it in the driveway. I didn't get any pictures because it was touch and go for a while. Unfortuantely, while raising the camper, manually at each leg, one of the back camper jacks bent and the entire camper almost fell backwards while it was 4' in the air. I will have to design a way to cross brace the camper jacks to prevent them from bending.
Pacific Northwest yetti
Expedition Medic
It seems like even the mfgrd ones, when they are up its always a little sketchy. The electric ones on the Outfitter are nice, as I can do it all at once so it seems to lesson that. Or at least that’s what I tell myself. Versus the drill and raising each side a few inches at a time.
Todd n Natalie
OverCamper
Ringlock scaffolding could work for that purpose as well.
ITTOG
Well-known member
Well it is almost ATV/Camping season again so I got the camper out of storage last weekend. Now I am thinking about skinning the inside.
Previously I thought about gluing the pink foam to the camper frame and outer skin and thin gluing Luan, or something similar, to the pink foam. I like that because it will give me a little bit of a thermal barrier.
But now I am thinking about gluing 1/2" tall by 1.5" wide strips of wood to all vertical and horizontal framing and gluing the foam to the outer skin and diagonal framing. Then I could affix the Luan to the wood strips using machine screws and Tnuts. This would make the Luan removable for when I want to add electrical or hang something. I could even offset the tnuts in the wood strips so they do not touch the metal frame. I know I will still get some thermal transfer but probably not as much as if I just screwed the wood to the metal frame.
A lot of conjecture there! Maybe I should make step one be screwing the wood directly to the metal frame and seeing how much thermal transfer I get. I should have been thinking about this over the summer.
Previously I thought about gluing the pink foam to the camper frame and outer skin and thin gluing Luan, or something similar, to the pink foam. I like that because it will give me a little bit of a thermal barrier.
But now I am thinking about gluing 1/2" tall by 1.5" wide strips of wood to all vertical and horizontal framing and gluing the foam to the outer skin and diagonal framing. Then I could affix the Luan to the wood strips using machine screws and Tnuts. This would make the Luan removable for when I want to add electrical or hang something. I could even offset the tnuts in the wood strips so they do not touch the metal frame. I know I will still get some thermal transfer but probably not as much as if I just screwed the wood to the metal frame.
A lot of conjecture there! Maybe I should make step one be screwing the wood directly to the metal frame and seeing how much thermal transfer I get. I should have been thinking about this over the summer.
ITTOG
Well-known member
So, screwing into the metal frame is what I did. I will see how that works before I worry about added complexity. I didn't work on the skin given it isn't a requirement to use the camper. Today I focused on the dresser I bought. I wanted it to fit directly onto the wall. In order for that to work I had to cut out part of the dresser at the bottom because the wall has a 3 3/4" bump in it for the bed rails.
In this pic you can see the bump for the top rail of the truck bed (middle of the screen) and the bump for the wheel wells in the truck bed. I am putting the dresser snug against the side of the wheel well bump (not the face). Doing it like this means I only have one bump to cut out of the dresser.
So I marked the cut and began cutting. I had to cut from the left side of the dresser and the back. The right side doesn't get impacted by the bed rail bump.
It fit perfectly. It is a five drawer dresser and the bottom two drawers will have to be modified. I will have to remove about 2" from the depth. They are 22" deep so it isn't much of an impact.
The dresser is actually bigger than I want so eventually I will build something custom that will use most of the wall on that side. In this pic you can see how the lower drawer sticks out. That is because I haven't cut the 2" of depth on the drawer yet.
Not as cool as a camper build but this will have to do.
In this pic you can see the bump for the top rail of the truck bed (middle of the screen) and the bump for the wheel wells in the truck bed. I am putting the dresser snug against the side of the wheel well bump (not the face). Doing it like this means I only have one bump to cut out of the dresser.
So I marked the cut and began cutting. I had to cut from the left side of the dresser and the back. The right side doesn't get impacted by the bed rail bump.
It fit perfectly. It is a five drawer dresser and the bottom two drawers will have to be modified. I will have to remove about 2" from the depth. They are 22" deep so it isn't much of an impact.
The dresser is actually bigger than I want so eventually I will build something custom that will use most of the wall on that side. In this pic you can see how the lower drawer sticks out. That is because I haven't cut the 2" of depth on the drawer yet.
Not as cool as a camper build but this will have to do.
