"Jackur" 2003 Ford E350 Diesel 4X4 Build.

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
I'd go with the smallest Partner stove, held down to a slab of stainless countertop using a machinist's magnetic base (with quick release) screwed inside the Parter, with a propane line stubbed up through the counter to a shutoff valve and a quick-disconnect.

That way it can be removed for cleaning (I HATE cleaning the stupid Wedgewood range in my camper because it's permanently mounted) AND it can also be taken outside and used on a pic-a-nic bench with a portable propane bottle.

In fact, if this stove ever dies, or I end up building my own, that's EXACTLY what I'm gonna do...


http://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Mag-Quick-Release-Each/dp/B002SPS6DS/ref=pd_sbs_indust_2

http://partnersteel.com/LG01.htm

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Propane-Coupling-F276330/dp/B000AMC5XI
 

shachagra

Adventurer
I'd go with the smallest Partner stove, held down to a slab of stainless countertop using a machinist's magnetic base (with quick release) screwed inside the Parter, with a propane line stubbed up through the counter to a shutoff valve and a quick-disconnect.

That way it can be removed for cleaning (I HATE cleaning the stupid Wedgewood range in my camper because it's permanently mounted) AND it can also be taken outside and used on a pic-a-nic bench with a portable propane bottle.

In fact, if this stove ever dies, or I end up building my own, that's EXACTLY what I'm gonna do...


http://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Mag-Quick-Release-Each/dp/B002SPS6DS/ref=pd_sbs_indust_2

http://partnersteel.com/LG01.htm

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Propane-Coupling-F276330/dp/B000AMC5XI

Great idea and more like what we had in mind initially, a camp stove you can store way, using the counter space, pulling out to cook and using it outside if you want as well.

Thanks- that's the way to go. Tom call me fickle but I canceled the range top- beautiful piece of gear but I really like this idea. What do you think?
 
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Lost...Again

New member
DWH makes some great points. And you're right, it is much closer to what we had originally discussed. I especially like the potability aspect of it!!

Not really sure why you're asking my opinion as you're going to do what you want anyways.....but thanks nonetheless!!
 

r_w

Adventurer
You could add a second disconnect outside so you could run from the main propane tank. Outdoor kitchen under the awning.
 

tibfibber

Observer
This is exactly what I did with my provan tiger I'm building. In my case I just wanted a simple single burner (with water boiling duty also covered with a Jetboil) so I built a drop-in space for a SnowPeak Baja Burner, ala Iron Grill table style. For simplicity sake I haven't yet plumbed it into the house propane, but it does have adaptors for both propane & butane canisters, and just lifts out for outside use.

Great idea and more like what we had in mind initially, a camp stove you can store way, using the counter space, pulling out to cook and using it outside if you want as well.

Thanks- that's the way to go.
 

shachagra

Adventurer
You could add a second disconnect outside so you could run from the main propane tank. Outdoor kitchen under the awning.

Great idea and so easy to do- the galley module runs right out to the rear of the van which is where the extended bed will provide cover outside. Maybe a small table that slides out the back....
Maybe later.
I putzed around with the electrical today. Sunny day so the batteries were full by 1000 despite the freezer running full time. I was very relieved to run the microwave. Should be a no brainer but the inverter is 1500W and the microwave 1375. Any significant voltage drop and the inverter would shut down. It works great. I should mention that I haven't hooked the van up to shore power yet, and I don't think I'll need to without an A/C unit.
I have a selector switch for running the cabin off the vans batteries, the 3 house batteries, or both. I'm sure this is basic to the industry but I mention it because running the cable from the selector switch to the van battery was a bear. The battery I ran it to is housed under the van, and it won't take more than a 49% charge. I'll service it tomorrow and if it doesn't inmprove replace it. Its too damned hard to get to to not fix right.

Some pics, the battery that drops down. The # 4AWG wire is the one that runs to the selector switch
IMG_1860.jpg

DC panel lit up. It is small things like this that you don't even appreciate if you buy an RV but if you build it you could spend an hour looking at those lights.

IMG_1861.jpg

The dinette illuminated with light from the sun--after sunset. If I didn't think the essential element of a great boat is that it sound like "Bladdo Bladdo Bladdo" you'd think I was a tree hugger. I am actually the opposite, I'm a sawyer.

IMG_1862.jpg
 
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dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Best price?

I *think* you have to order it from Partner and they build it for you.

Something like that.
 

Lost...Again

New member
Hey Doug, Chris from U Joint Off Road answered my emails regarding seat options. He has always been helpful regardless of whether I call him or email him. Anyways, he recommended just taking the seats to a quality upholstery shop. I'm still working the air ride seats, but trying to get the larger manufacturers to answer specific questions is more challenging than I had imagined. Not sure if you have an upholstery shop nearby but it's just another option.
 

shachagra

Adventurer
Windows and Galley

IMG_1864.jpg
IMG_1865.jpg
IMG_1866.jpg
Then I got crazy. I pulled out the completed galley to get better use of the space it has by the sink and above the cabinets. I am also recessing mosaic tiles just large enough to hold the new stove I ordered (thanks DWH- you can find it on Amazon) The same mosaic tiles will surround the area that the catalytic heater will be mounted.

I have an odd way of building. I build the overall box, then I build small boxes that are for specific purposes. In this case coffee cup holder that uses the space infront of the sink, as well as a paper towel holder. I will also add two drawers. Once I have the attachments as I want them and I know they fit what they are supposed to I glue them to the inside of the carcass, drilling holes marking where the insides are. I then cut out a rough opening and use a flush router bit to make them look like they belong there. It takes a bit more wood to do, but is so simple.
IMG_1868.jpgIMG_1869.jpg
IMG_1870.jpg
IMG_1871.jpg
IMG_1872.jpg
Makes good use of the area in front of the sink, normally dead space.

IMG_1873.jpg

I am going to find an upholsterer to redo the seats and order a swivel base for the passenger seat.

I love using the power tools inside the van with no external hook-ups.
 
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bigun

Observer
Hi Doug,
Finished your other thread last night and this one tonight. When you get the time I would love to have more information on the frig set up. I have been fighting with a 35 year old 3 way in my MH and I'm loosing! As you know new ones are out of site, so the idea of being able to build one is appealing. I also need to thank you for the ladder idea.
Charlie
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
I'd go with the smallest Partner stove, held down to a slab of stainless countertop using a machinist's magnetic base (with quick release) screwed inside the Parter, with a propane line stubbed up through the counter to a shutoff valve and a quick-disconnect.

That way it can be removed for cleaning (I HATE cleaning the stupid Wedgewood range in my camper because it's permanently mounted) AND it can also be taken outside and used on a pic-a-nic bench with a portable propane bottle.

In fact, if this stove ever dies, or I end up building my own, that's EXACTLY what I'm gonna do...


http://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Mag-Quick-Release-Each/dp/B002SPS6DS/ref=pd_sbs_indust_2

http://partnersteel.com/LG01.htm

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Propane-Coupling-F276330/dp/B000AMC5XI


Um...

I just noticed that that magnetic base I linked to isn't what I really had in mind. That one I linked doesn't have a proper "quick release". It has a cam lever to physically pry the mag base off of whatever it's stuck to. Might not work so hot screwed to the inside of a Partner stove unless you cut a slot for the cam to be able to push against the counter top rather that pushing against the bottom of the stove...

What I had in mind was a proper machinist's quick release that releases the magnetic field. Something more like this:

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-7172-Magnetic-Base-Indicator/dp/B000NQ4PWK/ref=pd_sbs_indust_6


Sorry about that...my bad.
 

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