Just bought a 3rd Gen!

MascotRejct

Adventurer
That a pretty sharp lookin rig man! I cant wait to see some pics of the tear down and then back together!

Thanks! Hopefully I remember to take pictures throughout the process! I'm lookin forward to wrenching and getting my hands dirty again. It's been a while since I've owned my own car that I actually feel comfortable working on. The wife's car (2013 kia forte koup) is too new to have any issues or for me to feel comfortable working on it. Hopefully it's not as much of a pain as the 89 bmw 325i i rebuilt. That thing sucked.
 

MascotRejct

Adventurer
So I found a FSM for what im guessing is the Euro version of the 2001 pajero. I know the 3.5L V6 (6G7 code, right?) is a sohc. For some reason, the fsm shows it as DOHC? Am I going crazy? Also, If anyone has a us fsm for the 2001 montero, it would be greatly appreciated if they could share it with me! Thanks guys!

Edit: Said screw it and bought a year subscription to chiltondiy.com for her. Figured I'll get at least $25 worth of use out of it for just this initial project!
 
Last edited:

Igorskiy86

Observer
I would highly recommend picking up a paper version of factory manual volume 1. I bought mine on ebay for 25 dollars with shipping, highly worth it. Otherwise you can cross reference a manual for the gen2 trucks with 3.5 motor, its pretty much same.

Nice looking truck. When I got my I was feeling the same way that you get a lot of car for the money, and it performs really well too.

If you are blowing blue smoke out of exhaust when you rev the motor, then you should do the head gaskets and head work while you have everything taken apart, otherwise you will have to buy all the replacement gaskets again next time you have to do it.
 

MascotRejct

Adventurer
I would highly recommend picking up a paper version of factory manual volume 1. I bought mine on ebay for 25 dollars with shipping, highly worth it. Otherwise you can cross reference a manual for the gen2 trucks with 3.5 motor, its pretty much same.

Nice looking truck. When I got my I was feeling the same way that you get a lot of car for the money, and it performs really well too.

If you are blowing blue smoke out of exhaust when you rev the motor, then you should do the head gaskets and head work while you have everything taken apart, otherwise you will have to buy all the replacement gaskets again next time you have to do it.

I've been kicking around whether or not to do the head gaskets at the same time, since doesn't seem like much more work. I think I'll just order those and the valve guide seals (I think those are the ones everyone says leak a little) as well, since I have another car to drive in the meantime...
 

Jay Ayala

Explorer
Those limited editions seem to be pretty rare on Craigslist in the Pacific Northwest.


1989 Dodge Raider 3.0L
1997 Mitsubishi Montero 3.5L
 

MascotRejct

Adventurer
So through today I have removed the intake plenum and manifold, fuel rails, and right bank exhaust manifold. Stopped for dinner and lost motivation. I'm hoping I can get the tear down done on Monday. This thing must have needed new valve cover gaskets for a while. Everything under them is caked in crud... Ugh.
 

Igorskiy86

Observer
When you get left side exhaust manifold off, make sure you inspect it for cracks, I guess its a common failure point, and on my car both manifolds were cracked, with the left one having a 2 inch crack on the bottom of it.

Also when you go to remove the coolant pipe that connects both heads together in the back next to firewall, it might be easier to access its bolts from underneath the car.
 

jfeust

New member
What symptoms will a cracked manifold present while driving? In other words, is there a way to tell without taking it apart and looking?
 

Igorskiy86

Observer
For me it sounded like an exhaust leak, and I had a code for a bank 2 being too lean. You can also look at it from under the car, and I was able to see a thin crack on the manifolds.
 

MascotRejct

Adventurer
So I've realized I forgot another couple gaskets... There's so many!! I've gotten it torn down to the crankshaft bolt, but realized I don't have a 22mm socket. I'll be picking it up tomorrow and hopefully finishing tear down to the head gaskets tomorrow. I noticed my smooth idler pulley was in rough shape after pulling it off, so I am going to place that as well. I've been looking up and down for the other idler pulley (the one with the teeth on it) but I can't seem to find it anywhere. Anyone know where to get that? I was thinking about replacing it since I have everything off, but it seems like it's in decent shape so I might just leave it depending on the price. This is the one on the alternator side of the engine.
 

MascotRejct

Adventurer
For me it sounded like an exhaust leak, and I had a code for a bank 2 being too lean. You can also look at it from under the car, and I was able to see a thin crack on the manifolds.

I got mine off and they seem to be in good shape. No noticeable cracks anywhere. the driver's side one was a PITA though. For some reason, I just couldn't figure out how to get the oil dipstick tube out. Finally got a good hold on it and managed to pull it out. FYI for anyone who has that problem, its held into the block with just an o-ring, and all you need to do is give it a good pull. Mine was held in so tight I though there was a screw somewhere holding it in.
 

MascotRejct

Adventurer
Also when you go to remove the coolant pipe that connects both heads together in the back next to firewall, it might be easier to access its bolts from underneath the car.

So I ended up just leaving it connected to the driver's side head when I removed it because I could not get to the bolts holding it in. Did you do the valve stem seals on yours when you had it taken apart? I'm doing mine, and am not sure how exactly to do it. Is there any tips or tricks to taking the valve springs off? The cylinder heads are off of the block, so that should make it a bit easier.

Finally, how in the hell did you get the new front crank seal on? I managed to thoroughly mangle the new one I had tonight trying to put it in...
 

Igorskiy86

Observer
The valve seals and front seal were done by a machine shop that did my head re-machining. While having it out it made since to me to do a full head job just so that I dont have to worry about it in a future. I just put a few markings on the new seal to make sure a right one was put in. I ended up having to replace some of my lifters as well since they were falling apart and not holding fluid like the manual describes. The price for machine work was very reasonable, I think it was 200 or 250 for both heads.
 

MascotRejct

Adventurer
So it turns out that the camshaft seals are not the same size as the crankshaft seal. I was really frustrated after destroying what I thought was the crankshaft seal trying to get it on. Turns out I was trying to install the camshaft seal on the crankshaft. Don't make that mistake. Haha. Luckily it is only a $6 part.

Edit: Actual crankshaft seal pretty much just slid in with my fingers, and a little bit of hammering with a pvc pipe and rubber mallet. It's amazing what happens when you use the correct parts...
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
189,928
Messages
2,922,344
Members
233,156
Latest member
iStan814
Top