Just got back from Sonora & Baja. Great trip!

Skillet

Adventurer
Just got back from my 15 day trek through Sonora, Mx and back up through Baja.
Went in through San Luis and hit El Golfo de Santa Clara.
Found our way down, camping, wheeling, exploring...to Guaymas and took the ferry to Santa Rosalia.
Spent a day in Southern Bahia Conception then worked our way back up.

Couple of trip notes:

San Luis crossing was easy, nice trip to El Golfo.
Beautiful driving for at least 30 miles south on the beach.
We camped in the dunes down there.
Wind was VERY bad that night and we decided to move on rather than get blasted again at BBQ time.
If you want to keep south on rural roads, turn east at the yellow / rust colored pickup sunk half in the sand.
Be careful around the Salt Flats.
Stay on the North side of both flats and STAY ON THE ROAD.
Road along the tracks is rough and sandy, keep tires aired down and if you question your springs, put heavier ones on.
I wore part of my fender flares away as I had too much weight.

You will come out in Puerto Penasco. Cool little town, but fairly gringo-ized. You will also see the new highway being built north of Penasco. Sad as this area will change dramatically in the next five years. Just my guess.

Go see it before it is ruined.

We then headed south to the northern village of El Desemboque. There are two of these towns on this coast (we were very confused at first). This 'northern' Desemboque is a very quaint little place with a nice little hotel and restaurant if you require that. Nice people and many folks playing on the beach.

Headed south once again to find the Puerto Libertad and 'southern' Desemboque. Libertad was okay but a bit industrial so we kept going.

After missing the turnoff the first time we finally found the little sign for southern El Desemboque. It is about a one hour drive to the tiny fishing village on a VERY bad washboard road. You will rattle bolts off of your rig if you go too fast.

On the way out, we came accross a man and his wife and child. They had been stuck, unable to get up a hill due to lack of power, for 48 hours with no food almost no water, they said others had come by but noone would help them. I pulled out the strap and yanked them up the hill. Gave them some food and water and in exchange, he informed us that we should NOT take the road south of the town to Bahia Kino. He said that the Seri indians down in Punta Chueca are not very nice. There are drugs there and they will not hestitate to shoot out your tires and take your car and belongings. He was very concerned about this and he and his wife were Seri themselves.
We stayed the night at Desemboque south and were not very comfortable as we were alone and the locals, the Seris, were not very friendly. It is very beautiful out there but we were up and headed back towards the main road at the crack of dawn. I am in no way puting these quiet people down, we just did not have a solid feeling out there by ourselves.

Bahia Kino was very nice, good food, also a growing gringo population. There were a couple of folks there who backed up the story about the Seri tribe in Punta Chueca. They reportedly murdered a vegetable salesman a few months earlier.
Like the U.S. there are just places to avoid, I guess.

After one night and day in Kino, we made it to San Carlos. Absolutely beautiful place, and though there is a lot of American influence, there are some very wild and beautiful beaches to camp on. We got a dive charter there and went out to San Pedro island. It was a great dive. Also, a bunch of great off-shore coves to snorkel and dive.

We had to wait a couple of days for the ferry in Guaymas to head over to Santa Rosalia. The ferry leaves at 8/9 pm and rides all night, gets to Santa Rosalia at 7am. Cost for two people and a car was $340 us. Ouch! Worth it though. Very comfortable ride but it is a small ferry so you should call ahead of time, a day or two, to put your name on the list as it only runs 4 days a week.

Once in Santa Rosalia we headed south to Mulege and Bahia Conception. The road through Santa Rosalia and south is very doable but you need to stay alert. Some of the vados are washed out and you need to go slow. Water still in some. Mulege is pretty beat up, especially along the river. They are getting it back together somewhat, I just hope they do not get hit again. We camped at Santispac and it was georgeous weather. Kayacked around, snorkeled, got some sun, drank beer.

That night, last Sunday, we had thunder and lightning, got up, packed up and it started to rain. We headed north and got hammered the whole way to the turn-off for Punta San Francisquito. At that point, it was still pouring rain and I made the decision to stay on the paved road as we had no backup. Dissapointed, we made it to Bahia L.A. right at dark, the road down there was VERY treacherous as there were many landslides and vados rushing with water. There was even a race truck that had gotten flooded out.
Got a room at Costa Del Sol. $60 and we felt safe and sound for the night.

Next day, there was more rain in the forcast, we headed to Ensenada, had one last great mexican dinner, drank some more beers, got up in the moring and made a beeline for Joshua Tree National Park for two days...that is another story.

Though the rain cut our trip a couple of days short, we had a great and adventure filled time. I know it has been said many times before, but if you are down there, be careful on the roads, there are many spots damaged by the hurricanes and you need to pay attention, even more so than usual. The big trucks are a pain in the ******, especially on curves.

Cheers and happy exploring!!



Pics in chrono order...sorta...:) Hope they don't bore.
 
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Nullifier

Expedition Leader
Nice pics! Can't wait to get out there in a few weeks!!! Interesting fish or Dolphin what is it?
 

Skillet

Adventurer
Nullifier said:
Nice pics! Can't wait to get out there in a few weeks!!! Interesting fish or Dolphin what is it?

I don't know what it was for sure. I think it was a dolphin or a small whale of sorts. It's tail was gone, as you can see but definitely a mammal.

Here are some more pics...I will keep them coming until I get yelled at.

Those pics were all on the beach, south of El Golfo. These are in El Desemboque (north & south), & Puerto Libertad.
 
Last edited:

kcowyo

ExPo Original
Beautiful pics!! :clapsmile

Love the sunsets and the Cruiser on the beach. The 4x4Labs rear bumper and rooftop tent looks awesome. Any luck with the spearfishing?

Man, a loaded Cruiser, a solitary beach, a Baja sunset......someday.......:rolleyes:
 

DaktariEd

2005, 2006 Tech Course Champion: Expedition Trophy
Looks like a great trip.
Definitely something I'd like to consider in the future...

:sombrero:
 

Skillet

Adventurer
kcowyo said:
Any luck with the spearfishing?someday.......:rolleyes:

No luck with the fishing. Saw a lot of fish but nothing big enough to shoot and worthy to fillet.

Fun snorkeling around though. ;)

Thanks for the nice comments on the pics.
 

Skillet

Adventurer
Go back to front for more trip notes.

I edited my original post to include some notes on the whole trip if any of you are interested.

Let me know if you have any questions!

:beer:
 

articulate

Expedition Leader
Skillet said:
If you want to keep south on rural roads, turn east at the yellow / rust colored pickup sunk half in the sand.
What a beautiful piece of advice. :ylsmoke: You can't get that everywhere.

Skillet said:
On the way out, we came accross a man and his wife and child. They had been stuck, unable to get up a hill due to lack of power, for 48 hours with no food almost no water, they said others had come by but noone would help them. I pulled out the strap and yanked them up the hill. Gave them some food and water and in exchange, he informed us that we should NOT take the road south of the town to Bahia Kino. He said that the Seri indians down in Punta Chueca are not very nice. There are drugs there and they will not hestitate to shoot out your tires and take your car and belongings. He was very concerned about this and he and his wife were Seri themselves.
We stayed the night at Desemboque south and were not very comfortable as we were alone and the locals, the Seris, were not very friendly. It is very beautiful out there but we were up and headed back towards the main road at the crack of dawn. I am in no way puting these quiet people down, we just did not have a solid feeling out there by ourselves.
It appears that the Seris are not too happy about the coastal highway that's coming - like you pointed out about the one at Penasco. That could be part of why they aren't all that friendly.

Whatever! That's a great route you took. I was just in El Desmeboque (north) on a similar trip a few weeks past. To travellers like us - who enjoy self-sustained camps on quiet beaches - that coastal highway will be a detriment. But perhaps an improvement to the economy of Sonora. Yin-yang effect, I suppose.

Thanks for the cool photos and stories!
:rockon:
 

Skillet

Adventurer
articulate said:
What a beautiful piece of advice. :ylsmoke: You can't get that everywhere.

Indeed. I got that piece of advice from a man on the beach about five miles south of the truck. Otherwise, I would have been lost myself.
Thought I would pass it on.

You are correct about the economy of Sonora.
Building that area up will drag many U.S. dollars and Euros to the area.
It is absolutely beautiful.
Sad for us though. I will be going back before the highway is done.

:beer:
 

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