Late Model Tacoma 4WD Actuators Failing

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
Just FYI, We have lots of these in stock as Take-offs since we send our complete 3rd members without them:

Or if you would like to do away with the Axle disconnect and go to a 1-piece axle and tube:
TOY41400-35032MAN
Toyota Front Non-Disconnect Axle Shaft & Tube T8S, Toyota FJ Cruiser, Tacoma, 4runner, AWD

View attachment 196538

Hmmm...very interesting. So basically if I swapped out this portion on my V6 4runner, the front axle would always be connected even in 2wd, BUT it would remove a potential failure point.

It probably wouldn't be cost effective, but I wonder how difficult it would be to put manual locking hubs on a Tacoma or 4runner. Anybody know?
 

uscg2008

Explorer
Had to switch mine out last weekend. Removed and installed the new one in about an hour. Pretty easy job, using like 4 tools.

This is what my old one looked like
066a3980db5606cd137d3105b23ea4dd_zpsff8e8433.jpg
 

cc tacoma

Observer
Mine failed on my '09 Tacoma with around 36k on it. I took it to the dealer because it was well within warranty , and they seemed very confused and tried to blame it on "worn tire tread in the rear" which was nothing short of hilarious. Not that it really mattered but my tires were a little worn but by no means were they bald. Anyway, I was close to getting new tires anyway, so I got new ones and brought it back to the dealership about 2 weeks later and wouldn't you know it........ it did NOT magically fix the problem. So after a couple of days of them acting confused on how to fix it, and about 20 attempts from me, telling them to please at least give the actuator a hard look. They finally conceded and replaced my actuator and all was right with the world (at least for the time being). I'm not gonna pretend that I am not nervous about it failing again. From what it sounds like, it is not the most enjoyable chore to complete. Wish me luck boys!!!!
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
I would think that if the problems continue (and as the 4th gen 4runner/2nd gen Taco platforms get older, I expect they will) then sooner or later the aftermarket will offer some kind of a kit to work around this. I seem to recall some of the domestic vehicles from the 80's had similar problems and eventually someone (mile marker?) offered a cable-actuated system that replaced the failure-prone vacuum or electric system.
 

Subspd

Adventurer
So has anyone come up with a simple solution to the t-case 4lo actuator failing? 4wd hi, center diff lock works great; but 4lo on my 4runner is a no go...
 

firefighter3564

New member
actuator question

The front diff actuator is a weak design IMO, and has been known to fail. Here is a link to an article I wrote on another forum on how to replace one but also how to repair one (if the electrical contacts for the drive motor are bad, which is frequently why they fail).

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/transmissions-transfer-cases-traction-aids/90975-front-differential-actuator-repair-replacement.html

you seemed the most knowledgable about this. I have an 08 tacoma and recently had actuator problems. I was hitting mine with a mallot like an idiot and broke the place nipple on the bottom with the rubber hose connected to it. I was under the impression my actuator was electronic, is this piece just a breather tube?

thanks for your help!
 

1911

Expedition Leader
you seemed the most knowledgable about this. I have an 08 tacoma and recently had actuator problems. I was hitting mine with a mallot like an idiot and broke the place nipple on the bottom with the rubber hose connected to it. I was under the impression my actuator was electronic, is this piece just a breather tube?

thanks for your help!

Yes, the nipple you broke is just for a breather tube, to vent the cavity that the actuator electric motor sits in. That breather nipple is a thin and easily-broken piece of plastic. I broke one while 4-wheeling. The bad news is, the broken nipple will allow water easy entry into the actuator body, which will result in the rust/corrosion of the electric motor and its contacts fairly quickly. Worse, you can't buy just the plastic cover that includes the breather nipple; you have to buy the whole friggin' actuator, which is a high-dollar item ($400 IIRC).

If your actuator is not working, you can finish taking it apart and see if you can just solder the motor contacts as described in this thread. If that works, I would just plug the broken breather nipple hole with JB Weld or even just silicone FIPG. If you can't repair the motor contacts as described, you'll either have to replace the whole actuator assembly or permanently fix the actuator in the 4WD position with the front axle always engaged to the transfer case.

Good luck with your repair.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
187,620
Messages
2,895,943
Members
228,596
Latest member
donaldsonmp3

Members online

Top