Lhanson 1st Gen Tundra Build

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

https://www.allprooffroad.com/84894runnerdrivetrain/19

I was not a big fan of those type of spacers when they first became the norm, but I haven't seen one fail yet either.

I don't generally like to run spacers either as they tend to be less than optimal for scrub, but the real number is the wheel backspacing minus the spacer. If you want to use a heavy offset wheel and a thin spacer, it may just put you at zero offset, which is not OEM engineering, but would be just fine. It's when you start getting into the heavy negative offset (including wheel spacers) that I just don't agree with.

Also, as mentioned above, if others are having issues with tire clearance, your options may be limited.

 

[FJR Colorado]

I would avoid spacers

 

[lhanson]

So I talked to both Camburg and Method.

Camburg site states for the 1st gen tundra:
Max Backspacing: 4.50in
Wheel Size: 16x8 or 17x8
Tire Size: 285/75/16 or 285/70/17

Method Mesh MR306 Specs:
Dia: 17"
Rim Width: 8.5"
Offset: 0
Backspacing: 4.75"

I was told by both method and camburg that by running a .25" spacer that would put me at the 4.5" backspacing max. That this would be fine and would work.

If I ran a .5" spacer wouldn't this make me at 4.25" back spacing which would be better since I would not be on the Max line?? There has to be a simple solution to making these wheels work. I would run the SCR wheels but they are extremely expensive for the beadlock look a likes and they cost an arm and a leg and they are back ordered till mid april (possibly later).

 

[rickashay]

So I talked to both Camburg and Method.

Camburg site states for the 1st gen tundra:
Max Backspacing: 4.50in
Wheel Size: 16x8 or 17x8
Tire Size: 285/75/16 or 285/70/17

Method Mesh MR306 Specs:
Dia: 17"
Rim Width: 8.5"
Offset: 0
Backspacing: 4.75"

I was told by both method and camburg that by running a .25" spacer that would put me at the 4.5" backspacing max. That this would be fine and would work.

If I ran a .5" spacer wouldn't this make me at 4.25" back spacing which would be better since I would not be on the Max line?? There has to be a simple solution to making these wheels work. I would run the SCR wheels but they are extremely expensive for the beadlock look a likes and they cost an arm and a leg and they are back ordered till mid april (possibly later).

Half inch spacers might be tricky. Most of the bolt on spacers are 1" or 1.25". Most of the slip on spacers are 0.25". A 0.5" slip on spacer would leave your hub studs too short to attach your lugs to.

Maybe I did not read thoroughly but why not just find a wheel with 4.5 or 4" backspacing? SCS?

 

[westranger29]

Lance whats up this is Chris! Glad to see you got a build thread going the truck is gonna be awesome with everything you got planned!

 

[lhanson]

Half inch spacers might be tricky. Most of the bolt on spacers are 1" or 1.25". Most of the slip on spacers are 0.25". A 0.5" slip on spacer would leave your hub studs too short to attach your lugs to.

Maybe I did not read thoroughly but why not just find a wheel with 4.5 or 4" backspacing? SCS?

There are little to non 17in wheels in that matte black bead lock look with less than 4.75" back spacing. I have looked every where. The only company that does is stealth custom racing and they are back ordered till mid march and sounded shaky at that. Plus for a set of 4 wheels from SCR we are looking at $900 (Plus mounting and balancing so more money there) vs Method MR306 for $756 (Mounted and Balanced OTD).

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You can always install longer wheel studs. It's not that difficult. The hardest part will be sourcing the right stud.

 

[seanpistol]

I wouldn't even consider a slip on spacer as an option. There is no issue in using bolt on spacers if you have your heart set on those wheels.

Interesting that Camburg can recommend 4.5" backspacing with 285s, seeing as how they rub the frame at full lock.

 

[lhanson]

I wouldn't even consider a slip on spacer as an option. There is no issue in using bolt on spacers if you have your heart set on those wheels.

Interesting that Camburg can recommend 4.5" backspacing with 285s, seeing as how they rub the frame at full lock.

I tell no lies. Carlos at Camburg said it himself as well as the website right under the tech info tab. If this truly doesn't work how can camburg engineering recommend this? Blows my mind.

I mean I don't mind running spacers if it's kosher. Your recommending a 1.25" spacer for front? Will I hit fender at bottom out? Thanks for all the help guys. This has been super nutty to get sorted. I feel like it should be easier than this to get a set of wheels and mount some bigger tires ha.

 

[rickashay]

I mean I don't mind running spacers if it's kosher. Your recommending a 1.25" spacer for front? Will I hit fender at bottom out? Thanks for all the help guys. This has been super nutty to get sorted. I feel like it should be easier than this to get a set of wheels and mount some bigger tires ha.

Let's go back to the drawing board a little bit here. Have you already purchased your tires?

My SCS wheels have 3.5" backspacing which is fairly aggressive for IFS. However the Tundra is kind of odd-ball with it's Tacoma drivetrain and wider body. If I were you, I would get the wheels you want and run 1" wheel spacers to give you an effective 3.75" Backspacing. You should be off the frame at this point but even if you do hit the frame is it that bad? I'd rather rub the frame anyday that a body mount or pinch weld. Either that or be more flexible in your wheel choice selection.... run a 16" wheel and you will have more backspacing options (but I think you already purchased your tires). Most 17" toyota bolt pattern wheels are designed for the Tacoma/FJ/4Runner crowd and not our odd-ball Tundras.

 

[lhanson]

Let's go back to the drawing board a little bit here. Have you already purchased your tires?

My SCS wheels have 3.5" backspacing which is fairly aggressive for IFS. However the Tundra is kind of odd-ball with it's Tacoma drivetrain and wider body. If I were you, I would get the wheels you want and run 1" wheel spacers to give you an effective 3.75" Backspacing. You should be off the frame at this point but even if you do hit the frame is it that bad? I'd rather rub the frame anyday that a body mount or pinch weld. Either that or be more flexible in your wheel choice selection.... run a 16" wheel and you will have more backspacing options (but I think you already purchased your tires). Most 17" toyota bolt pattern wheels are designed for the Tacoma/FJ/4Runner crowd and not our odd-ball Tundras.

I have purchased my tires.

I have to run a 17in wheel to clear my Trd big brake kit as far as I know. The wheels on it now are 17in and its a tight squeeze. Pinch welds will be ground off and plated. I Will need to be able to turn at full lock as the trails around here are snug to say the least in turns.

The 1st gen tundra is an odd ball one forsure.

 

[rickashay]

Gotcha. Valid point on the BBK.

Widening the stance of the truck will also make it tougher to squeeze down those tight trails. You gain tire clearance on the frame but lose it on measure width of the wheels...its a constant game of trade offs we play! I still manage to get my 35s to turn at full lock (actually hit steering bumps) but I just have to ignore the awful tire sounds.

Excited to see all this stuff bolted on!

 

[lhanson]

Here is the first mod. I installed a Pioneer DEH-X4700BT. It has bluetooth, usb, aux and cd functions. Pretty good steal for $91 from best buy on sale. Bluetooth function is seamless. I get in my truck after work and don't have to pair or anything. It simply starts playing from where I left off when truck was turned off.

 

[lhanson]

I finally got my method Mesh 306 wheels the other day. It took 2 days to get the camburg uppers on, wheels and tires mounted. I have not installed my Icon progressive leaf pack because it looks like my Bilstein Coilovers # BTS7514 are not lifting the front enough. It is maxed out and the truck is barely taller in front. Anyone have advisement on this?

The major issue of install was getting the spindle ball joints out. The first day my buddy Chris and I spent 730am-430pm trying everything known to man to get them out. We even made a tool. I lucked out and a local shop loaned me a snap on C Clamp ball joint press and a die grinder on a saturday! I got it out in 30 minutes. I haven't installed the wheel spacers and I come no where close to hitting the frame on either side at full lock. I have minor rubbing on plastic fender closest to door. Any recommendations?

I will organize this post into a step by step when I have more time but till then here are some photos.
Parts installed:
Camburg Uniball Uppers
Toyo AT II P285 - 70 R17
Method Mesh M306 Matte Black Wheels
Chrome Lug Nuts to Match



Next order of business.
Sliders, skid plates, and softopper

Bumpers/winch. Who makes a overland style winch bumper???

 

[rickashay]

What is the weight on the coils your running? Might have to step up to a heavier coil spring.