Like A Moth To The Flame- My New LR3
- Thread starter Dendy Jarrett
- Start date
cannonball55
Adventurer
They're Rover Specialties Sliders, mentioned on page 2 of this thread. :sombrero:
And unfortunately no longer available. Lucky 8 has purchased a used pair to see if they can replicate. What is great is that they protect all the way over to the frame rail.
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I read the full thread and missed the part on page 2.... Oops. Haha.
They look really good, shame no one makes them any more.
All the UK ones don't go to the frame rails and cover all the sides.
I have terrafirma ones and they don't protect the front wing areas. Have lost the lower trim piece because of it.
They look really good, shame no one makes them any more.
All the UK ones don't go to the frame rails and cover all the sides.
I have terrafirma ones and they don't protect the front wing areas. Have lost the lower trim piece because of it.
shedlock2000
Observer
I have been following this thread with great interest (for many different reasons). Firstly, I really like what you have done with her -- though I am not a fan of the ARB and back bumpers, I can see why people go with them and appreciate them when I see them (I kind of prefer the lines of the stock).
You have done a spectacular job of the work you have done on her but I have a few questions:
1) Is the VIGG hood black out that tricksy?
2) Where and how did you route the wiring to the light bar and the rear light; how and where did you mount the roof bar switch (could you post some photos)?
3) How difficult is it to rip open the dash to tie into the reverse switch and hide auxiliary wiring,
4) For what reason did you choose to mount the Hi-Lift Jack on the rear bumper and not the roof rack,
5) Do you find the 50" bar to be significantly better than the original factory roof mounted lights, and if so -- how do you think that it would compare to a 30" cree spot/fog blend (I have the front runner rack, and I can only mount 38" in between the front rack mounting points.
Finally, thank you for sharing your efforts on your Landy -- it has been a great help to me in many ways. I shall post a few photos of my LR3 when she is ready, but on a student budget -- affording the things I need is harder than you'd imagine.
BTW -- are you willing to sell your OEM spots?
You have done a spectacular job of the work you have done on her but I have a few questions:
1) Is the VIGG hood black out that tricksy?
2) Where and how did you route the wiring to the light bar and the rear light; how and where did you mount the roof bar switch (could you post some photos)?
3) How difficult is it to rip open the dash to tie into the reverse switch and hide auxiliary wiring,
4) For what reason did you choose to mount the Hi-Lift Jack on the rear bumper and not the roof rack,
5) Do you find the 50" bar to be significantly better than the original factory roof mounted lights, and if so -- how do you think that it would compare to a 30" cree spot/fog blend (I have the front runner rack, and I can only mount 38" in between the front rack mounting points.
Finally, thank you for sharing your efforts on your Landy -- it has been a great help to me in many ways. I shall post a few photos of my LR3 when she is ready, but on a student budget -- affording the things I need is harder than you'd imagine.
BTW -- are you willing to sell your OEM spots?
Honestly ... yes. It can be difficult. I hope to do an article for the portal on the best approach for installing one. Takes LOTS of warm soapy water in a spray bottle and the patience of Jobe. However, after you install your first one, it gets easier with each one. I've done 7 now ... if memory serves. You don't want to do this with your spouse unless you have had a real chat about the fact that tempers can get short and for neither to take it personal!
The wiring runs from the fuse box under the hood across the firewall in the engine bay and up through the inside of the snorkel. It exits out the port of the snorkel at the roof and into the corner of the windshield gasket. Then under the front of the headliner. The switches are in the overhead center console over the rear view mirror. Was really not all that much trouble. For the switches, I left the IPF switches because they are mounted without needing to cut and flush mount (I'll take pics for you).
I didn't rip the dash open at all. The aux wiring is all overhead sans the front bumper Hella 4000's. They are in a factory mounted aux light switch by the instrument cluster. All other wiring is overhead. I have the rear light mounted to an over head switch by the light bar switch and then tied into the reverse light in the rear tail light housing.
The Hi-Lift is mounted on the optional mounting bracket offered by Kaymar for their rear bumpers. I try to keep as much weight as low as I can to keep the center of gravity low. It also is much easier to access than having it overhead.
The four over head lights were not factory OEM lights. They were dealer installed IPF lights. I am using a BullDog (US MADE) 50" curved LED bar. And yes, the curved bar is exceptional. The flat bars have been known to have some challenges with "dead" spots from light canceling. This isn't a challenge with the curved bar. This thing lights up the trail like a foot ball stadium! (Review forthcoming on the Bulldog)
Yes. I will be selling the 4 IPF lights.
shedlock2000
Observer
Thanks for your comprehensive response! I shall be very interested to see the photos of the overhead switches -- that sounds like a perfect solution that I had not thought of!
You say you routed the wiring for the switches through the windshield gasket? Might I request some photos of this too? I have always hated trying to route wiring from outside, inside. I always seem to incur leaking issues or similar.
Thanks again for offering to take photos -- they will be very helpful.
You say you routed the wiring for the switches through the windshield gasket? Might I request some photos of this too? I have always hated trying to route wiring from outside, inside. I always seem to incur leaking issues or similar.
Thanks again for offering to take photos -- they will be very helpful.
da10A
Adventurer
Hopefully for you, the Land Rover community will do like they did me and teach you how an suv doesn't have to be lifted to the sky and rolling with 35-37 inch tires to work well.
Drove jeeps for 20 some years, owned a D2 for 5 years and am back to Jeeps with my 10A JKU and am really missing the reasonability of the LR crowd. It is hard to deal with the over-lifted and over-tired crowd again I'll tell you that!!!! Its like they just dont get it.
Drove jeeps for 20 some years, owned a D2 for 5 years and am back to Jeeps with my 10A JKU and am really missing the reasonability of the LR crowd. It is hard to deal with the over-lifted and over-tired crowd again I'll tell you that!!!! Its like they just dont get it.
shedlock2000
Observer
I know what you mean da10A; I have never been a fan of the lifts myself. The most I ever did was to place expedition springs on my RRC -- it provides about 1" extra lift. I had the devil's own job trying to find tall skinny tyres in Canada! They're just not a thing here!
Omar Brannstrom
Adventurer
Hi
Just read 18 pages here and I still dont understand what your AEV jeep was, was it with the old 3.8 engine and 4 auto or the new pentastar and 5 auto. What year model was it. Was it with the old interior or the new interior? I maybe just missed the information, I am probably blind
The problem You had would offcourse be less with the stronger package pentastar and 5 auto and a new cooler for the autobox that the old 4 auto lacks. I do understand that your landrover Lr3 are better for heavy towing
Just read 18 pages here and I still dont understand what your AEV jeep was, was it with the old 3.8 engine and 4 auto or the new pentastar and 5 auto. What year model was it. Was it with the old interior or the new interior? I maybe just missed the information, I am probably blind
The problem You had would offcourse be less with the stronger package pentastar and 5 auto and a new cooler for the autobox that the old 4 auto lacks. I do understand that your landrover Lr3 are better for heavy towing
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Even with the newer motor, the JKU still only has a towing capacity of under 3700 lbs. The LR3 7800 lbs.
There is really no comparison of the JKU to the Land Rover for towing experience. (And I loved the Jeep.)
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There is really no comparison of the JKU to the Land Rover for towing experience. (And I loved the Jeep.)
D
Omar Brannstrom
Adventurer
Towing is strange
Remember here in Sweden (probably hole Europe) the JKU 2007 to 2010 was rated for 7716 pounds (3500kg) for towing and that was with the weaker 3.8 engine and autobox and the smaller brake disc that You have in US and with the weaker 3.21 in axle ratio. In 2012 with the stronger Pentastar engine and better 5-autobox and bigger brake disc that You dont have in US the towing went down to 4409 pounds (2000kg) and that was with the stronger 3.73 in axle ratio, with the weaker 3.21 in axle ratio the new wrangler 4 door only has a towing at 2205 pounds (1000kg).
X
Here in Sweden (probably hole Europe) it do not matter so much if You have a normal driving license, I have a towing at 4409 pounds (2000kg) on my JKUR 2013 but my driving license only permit me to tow max 2116 pounds (960 kg). On Your vehicle LR3 (V8 4.4 liters engine ) that is heavier than my jkur, here in Sweden You could only tow 1653 pounds (750 kg) with a normal driving license.
X
To use the max towing You would need a new special driving license, probably cost alot. The reason is probably that they mean that a normal person with a driving license do not have the skills to safely drive with a heavy vehicle and a heavy trailer, it will be like a truck and would need like a truck license.
X
So the package with a vehicle and trailer can not go over a max weight, so if You have a heavy vehicle means that You can only bring with You a lighter trailer on a normal driving license. So here it is popular to have light vehicle because You can then have a heavier trailer.
X
Also how determines the towing weight, it is the companies not the Government, so I have feeling that Jeep is little bit low to be on the safe side, it is from US. For instance landrover Defender 110 can have a cargo weight of 2205 pounds (1000kg) inside the vehicle, it failed the Moose test, flipped over, have a more narrow stand than a Wrangler, and have higher center of gravity, lacks airbags etc. Its legal in Europe would not be in US I think. Can it be safely driven with 2205 pounds inside on the road, probably not. If it was build in US it would probably not have 2205 pounds rating.
x
I would not be surprised if You get this regulations to in US in the future. So even if the vehicle can handle a a heavy trailer it doesnt always mean that the person behind the weel can safely operate a have package on the road.
Sorry that I wrote so much in Your thread, could not help it:ylsmoke:
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Omar:
I am not sure why in the US, Jeep is rated at under 4000 lbs. and in Sweden it is rated at twice that ...
This seems way off base, but ... hey I don't make the regs.
I can tell you that for me, towing in the JKU was a white knuckle experience. There was a lot of wind whip and tail wag. With the LR3, I forget that there is a trailer behind me.
On a recent trip (see the link in my signature below), I had an entire wheel come off the trailer. I barely felt it and was able to successfully bring the trailer safely to a stop. I fear that in a JKU, the results may have been less pleasant.
D
I am not sure why in the US, Jeep is rated at under 4000 lbs. and in Sweden it is rated at twice that ...
This seems way off base, but ... hey I don't make the regs.
I can tell you that for me, towing in the JKU was a white knuckle experience. There was a lot of wind whip and tail wag. With the LR3, I forget that there is a trailer behind me.
On a recent trip (see the link in my signature below), I had an entire wheel come off the trailer. I barely felt it and was able to successfully bring the trailer safely to a stop. I fear that in a JKU, the results may have been less pleasant.
D