Little mods/upgrades/additions that make a big difference
- Thread starter AFBronco235
- Start date
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
I know you said $25 max and I'm fairly certain this particular one is more, but a few guys have mentioned alternatives.
Point is the single best thing I did was a gooseneck map light. This particular one is the Littlite L-7/18A which uses a halogen lamp, has a dimmer and an 18" long neck. Probably cost about $50. When I got it 15 years ago (it was just about the first thing I ever did to my truck) there was no LED option like now. The LED ones are about $75, so it quite a bit more than your limit. But soooo very useful.
Point is the single best thing I did was a gooseneck map light. This particular one is the Littlite L-7/18A which uses a halogen lamp, has a dimmer and an 18" long neck. Probably cost about $50. When I got it 15 years ago (it was just about the first thing I ever did to my truck) there was no LED option like now. The LED ones are about $75, so it quite a bit more than your limit. But soooo very useful.
I ended up replacing the front dome light with a red LED module. The front dome/map light in my LC doesn't turn on with the doors. It gives plenty of light to read by but doesn't kill my night vision like the white light did. Hard to see some lines / text on maps (if they happen to be red), but overall a good mod and only about $5 from Amazon. This is similar to what I got: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ELOF36C
I replaced the other dome lights (that have door switches) with white LED panels for about the same price. HUGE difference. Definitely recommended.
No pricetag on this one, since I used some scrap I found;
- Rodent-proofing my passenger air intake. Some critters have an obsession with trying to get into your HVAC vents and turn them into a rodent theme-park, and not all vehicles are suitably protected against this. I used some aluminum expansion mesh from a section of roof gutter-guard and some tin snips to make a cage covering the intake, beneath the plastic at the base of the windshield.
Anyone who has ever had mice in the vehicle can tell you how un-fun it is to clean them out.
- I also like rigging up some sort of screen behind the grille to protect the radiator/condenser/trans cooler from flying stones and clouds of enormous insects.
- Rodent-proofing my passenger air intake. Some critters have an obsession with trying to get into your HVAC vents and turn them into a rodent theme-park, and not all vehicles are suitably protected against this. I used some aluminum expansion mesh from a section of roof gutter-guard and some tin snips to make a cage covering the intake, beneath the plastic at the base of the windshield.
Anyone who has ever had mice in the vehicle can tell you how un-fun it is to clean them out.
- I also like rigging up some sort of screen behind the grille to protect the radiator/condenser/trans cooler from flying stones and clouds of enormous insects.
Brendon
Minnesota Overland
Just a little mod I use up in the salt belt. Replace the zinc plated license plate screws with stainless steel ones. After a few years the plated screws rust, and spread crap on what can be hard to reach places. Even more fun is when the screws seize up in the plastic inserts. Just replaced 4 on my new vehicle, #14 x 3/4" sheet metal screws, $1.10 each from the hardware store.
That's cool!
Cut some heavy plywood to match your floormats, perfect for jack plates, lap tables, ect.
Run a hose or length of steel hard line from the windshield washers to the front of the radiator, behind the grill. When you might need extra cooling, swap the line from the washer frogs to the radiator sprayers and you have an instant cool down button.
Depending on your vehicle, swap out the regular Hi-lift handle for a piece of DOM tubing long enough to make a replacement or reinforcement for your tie-rod or draglink. Ruffstuff makes some weld-in threaded bungs that work great for something like this.
Buy a 1/2" pipe nipple 8 or 10 inches long, makes a great cheater for rachets or breaker bars, also makes a good splice for heater hoses.
slide a length of heater hose under the seat for a siphon, spare hose, grommets for other hoses, ect.
Stuff the center of a roll of duct tape with 550 cord, a small razor, a little tube of super glue and zip ties. (add JB weld if you like). Seal the sides with more duct tape to keep all your adhesives in one spot.
Cut a sawtooth on one side of your camping shovel to help cut roots and turf.
Cut a piece of hardware cloth to fit your radiator as a rock guard.
Matt
Run a hose or length of steel hard line from the windshield washers to the front of the radiator, behind the grill. When you might need extra cooling, swap the line from the washer frogs to the radiator sprayers and you have an instant cool down button.
Depending on your vehicle, swap out the regular Hi-lift handle for a piece of DOM tubing long enough to make a replacement or reinforcement for your tie-rod or draglink. Ruffstuff makes some weld-in threaded bungs that work great for something like this.
Buy a 1/2" pipe nipple 8 or 10 inches long, makes a great cheater for rachets or breaker bars, also makes a good splice for heater hoses.
slide a length of heater hose under the seat for a siphon, spare hose, grommets for other hoses, ect.
Stuff the center of a roll of duct tape with 550 cord, a small razor, a little tube of super glue and zip ties. (add JB weld if you like). Seal the sides with more duct tape to keep all your adhesives in one spot.
Cut a sawtooth on one side of your camping shovel to help cut roots and turf.
Cut a piece of hardware cloth to fit your radiator as a rock guard.
Matt
TechMOGogy
Observer
Need I say more :clapsmile
Thirty-Nine
Explorer
I have one of these NEBO Larry 8 LED lights in my rig. Mine is clipped onto the inside of the soft top. However, it's also got a magnet on the clip. I've used this thing so many times. You can attach it to things on the engine bay when working or wherever there's metal. It's $10 and worth it. Plus, it's crazy bright.
I have one of these NEBO Larry 8 LED lights in my rig. Mine is clipped onto the inside of the soft top. However, it's also got a magnet on the clip. I've used this thing so many times. You can attach it to things on the engine bay when working or wherever there's metal. It's $10 and worth it. Plus, it's crazy bright.
These work so well for me that I only bring a headlamp and a bunch of these scattered around the rig for camping trips. Magnetic, bright, and a clip to hang from clothes. Also bought rechargeable batts.
GCAdventurer
Where did I put my keys??
Added rod holders to back seat - never have to worry about the kids stepping on them or lines getting tangled!
Cost $15
