Locker options: What am I looking at cost-wise?

[xcmountain80]

DO a google search for toyota axle codes. You'll use your vin to pull it.
Oh crap I'll do it
96-99
B01A 3.42 2 pinion open 7.5" ring gear
B01B 3.42 4 pinion open 8" ring gear
B01C 3.42 2 pinion posi (OEM limited slip)

B02A 3.58 2 pinion open 7.5" ring gear
B02B 3.58 4 pinion open 8" ring gear
B02C 3.58 2 pinion posi

BO3A 4.10 2 pinion open 7.5" ring gear
BO3B 4.10 4 pinion open 8" ring gear
BO3C 4.10 2 pinion posi

B04A 4.56 2 pinion open 7.5" ring gear
B04B 4.56 4 pinion open 8" ring gear
B04C 4.56 2 pinion posi

B05A 3.15 2 pinion open 7.5" ring gear
B05B 3.15 4 pinion open 8" ring gear
B05C 3.15 2 pinion posi
B06A 3.91 2 pinion open 7.5" ring gear
B06B 3.91 4 pinion open 8" ring gear
B06C 3.91 2 pinion posi

http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=274535
any newer and I dunno just search and filter through the stuff that doesn't apply.

Aaron

 

[njtaco]

almost... not the VIN, but the axle code fron the driver's door jamb sticker...

Also, his is a 2004...I think a similar chart is on TTORA wiki...and I think Aaron's chart above works for the '04.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Well, I guess that would bring me to my next question: How do I determine my axle ratio? I have the original window sticker but I don't recall seeing the ratio there. Is there some "formula" (like "all 5 speed V-6's get this axle ratio" or "all 4wd non-TRDs get this axle ratio" or something like that?) Or would it be contained in my VIN number somewhere?

Honestly I'm still leaning towards the ARB. All new parts and a professional install appeal to me. When I was young and broke and in the military/college I had to do things in half-measures and they often turned out half-assed. Now that I actually have a decent job I'd like to be able to do things the right way.

Fortunately I'm located in the Denver metro area so there are a bunch of shops here. I'll call around and see what I can find.

The ratio is on the build plate on your door sill.

AFAIK the factory e-locker third is available in 4.10, 4.30 and 4.56.

http://www.sonoransteel.com/Toyota_axle_codes.html

http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=274535

Shops. You should call Colorado Toyota Specialists (Joe Calleja), PM powderpig on the forum (Robbie), Offroad Solutions or try Slee. I would also say Irbis Offroad, although I'm not sure if Oleg sets up diffs. He could definitely take care of anything else, though.

 

[Nullifier]

You will not need the vin to know your axle code. The code is listed in the drivers door jamb. It is on the manufactureres sticker.

I would also suggest an ARB rear Locker with a compresor. I run a Viair 480c Compresor and it handles all of my air needs. I found one on the net for about the same as the ARB but it had better stats and Viair has a great name.

I was going to redo both my thirds but I was running out of time so I took the thirds over to a shop in the morning and got them back that afternoon. We had both axles reassembled that night. I do not see a reason why you could not have everything for a rear axle completed in one day including the compressor set up.

The removal an reinstall of a third member is pretty easy and only requires basic hand tools, a jack and 2 jack stands. It really is a driveway mod.

 

[madizell]

Experienced-based personal opinion: ARB is always the better choice. Completely controllable on demand. No having to wait for the vehicle computer to determine that it is okay to engage. No need to be in 4WD or low-range to engage. Locking the axle it entirely up to you, and takes only 2 seconds depending on your air source. If you carry OBA with a reserve, engagement is instantaneous. If you use the ARB compressor, it takes perhaps 2 seconds or so initially, then holds enough pressure reserve to disengage and reengage instantaneously once or twice before the compressor runs again. None of this requires any input from you other than switching the locker on or off. The compressor runs on demand. The ARB is one of the strongest gear carriers made, and even in open mode is a superior carrier.

The ARB is either spooled (locked) or open. I have not heard of an ARB that is an LSD when not locked.

Cost is subjective. This is one of the best after market off road products you can find. Properly installed it will outlive your vehicle. Why is $1,500 considered by some to be expensive? I think it is cheap when you realize all you are getting.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Experienced-based personal opinion: ARB is always the better choice. Completely controllable on demand. No having to wait for the vehicle computer to determine that it is okay to engage. No need to be in 4WD or low-range to engage.

This is the case with the grey wire mod I believe.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/minutemods/greywire_mod/

Why is $1,500 considered by some to be expensive? I think it is cheap when you realize all you are getting.

I simply don't play in the same league as people who don't think $1,500 isn't a lot of money. I don't downplay the value (I have a pair of Air Lockers), but I saved for almost 2 years to buy them.

 

[njtaco]

I simply don't play in the same league as people who don't think $1,500 isn't a lot of money. I don't downplay the value (I have a pair of Air Lockers), but I saved for almost 2 years to buy them.

I would be with Dave on this...

Not to take away from Madizell's otherwise valid point, but if I can get either a complete axle housing with e-locker and correct gears for 1K, or an ARB for $1200 (assuming I already have OBA) I would be very tempted to install the Toyota axle in an afternoon, sell the take-out parts for a few hundred, and put the difference into a few trips. However, my vehicle does not get used hard, and differential strength plays less of a part in my decision. I still agree the ARB is the stronger option.

Also, you don't need all the computers and bells and whistles to operate the E-locker, just some wire and a DPDT rocker switch...in case this matters in your decision. (Mark posted this link on the first page...)

2c...

 

[xcmountain80]

I corrected the post, ARB is open diff when not engaged. I say go ARB you won't be disappointed.


Aaron

 

[pray4surf]

Nice thread - let me add my $0.02's

If I remember, those TRD (e-locker) rear ends from champion toyota only came with 4.30's.

There are a number of sources for e-locker harnesses and work-arounds (example Downey offers a cable actuator)

I went ARB on my truck with a Viair OBA setup. Works fantastic for me and have had no problems.

Locker cost me $700 (used and refurbished by ARB)
Spent another $375 for the "Viair Constant Duty On Board Air System" - though in hindsight I should have settled for simply buying the compressor, pressure switch and tank individually and buying airlines/fittings/etc. locally.
Labor to regear the third and install the ARB was another few hundred. I sent mine to the PHX area and paid Gear Installs to set up the third - I did have an 'extra' third so my truck was not 'down' while the 'new' third was built

When I looked into compressors the ARB's were not rated for extended use (such as airing up tires), but I understand that they have improved as of late.

IMO - It may be easier to swap in an e-locker rear end (drum to drum) than to install an ARB locker and the 'gray-wire' mod can be performed to allow you more control over the operation/functionality.

Either way, this is a 'must-do' mod for anyone seriously considering taking their truck off-road. I've been on a couple of runs with open/open 4x4's and just as the OP experienced, you get one wheel on each axle off the ground - and you are not going anywhere...

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Kurt,

It's possible, but unlikely, that a new carrier will pattern out the same as the stocker, so pinion shims may be required. The lunch box lockers are the exception to that, but I'd never recommend a drop in for a daily driver. It's one of the unfortunate parts of crawling, but I blew up 5 Toyota thirds (two 8" front, 3 8" rear, 2 Detroits, 1 spool) on the trail beater before getting out of the game. In all the rears I had done, all required both sets of shims.

Mark

Hmmm, in the hundreds of diffs we've set up for customers and my personal stuff, I've never had that occurrence? The ring gear and carrier have one axis of motion and that is into or away from the pinion head in a motion perpendicular to the pinion shaft. If you get any up/down motion you've got bigger fish to fry. Measure the backlash, preload and inspect pattern before dissassembly, then reset post assembly including tolerance for new bearings. But I fail to see how the pinion depth can change even slightly with a carrier swap???

 

[Hilux_Max]

Could somebody be kind enough to tell me what those E-lockers for the Taco sell for new?

We dont have e-lockers here in austrailia and im just wondering how much it would cost to fit to my 07 hilux?

would I need a new centre diff housing for it or can I drill a hole in my current one to fit?

also, how strong are the e-lockers in comparison to an ARB? on a scale of 1-10 with ARB being a 10 ?

thanks in advance

 

[ntsqd]

If the pinion bearings coming out are of quality and the bearings going in are of equal or better quality and you don't wrinkle any of the shims, then I doubt that the pinion's location will change. That is no excuse for not checking pinion depth, but the tolerances that bearings are produced to means that the differences from one bearing to another are usually below the installer's ability to measure it/them. Where changes happen, IME, is when a bit of dirt gets where it doesn't belong or when a bearing stops moving in the bore or on the shaft when it has a little distance yet to go.

I do not think which locker you choose will matter much. I would suggest going with the one that falls into your lap first. If you have already got some time using one or the other then you've probably established a preference, but either will do the job. Were you thinking of going rock crawling - rock racing, then the discussion would be different.

About the only solid direction I'll offer is that you don't want a Detroit. I've got two and I don't want either of them.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

If the pinion bearings coming out are of quality and the bearings going in are of equal or better quality and you don't wrinkle any of the shims, then I doubt that the pinion's location will change. That is no excuse for not checking pinion depth, but the tolerances that bearings are produced to means that the differences from one bearing to another are usually below the installer's ability to measure it/them. Where changes happen, IME, is when a bit of dirt gets where it doesn't belong or when a bearing stops moving in the bore or on the shaft when it has a little distance yet to go..

Sure, no reason not to check if your pulling it, but we are talking about a carrier swap only, ie the pinion doesn't move at all, you pull the ring off one carrier, bolt it to another and reset backlash and preload. Again I've never seen one change. If I were swapping pinions of any manner, I would absolutely check depth, preload, etc. Differences between pinion manufactures, Koyo versus Timken (different specs on taper, thickness, etc) as well a the obvious different depths with different ratios.

 

[laxtoy]

a lot of times you can find guys selling fully assembled used thirds with arb's or even drum to drum elocker rear ends on ttora and yotatech, and other such places for cheap, and may have a better idea of the condition you might be getting the unit in. i have a v6 5 speed with 4:10's and alot of guys say you won't notice a huge power loss running up to 33 inch tires, so there is really no need to regear if you plan to stay stock. there are also online vendors like trail gear and marlin crawler that sell fully set up thirds, most with 4:88's or 5:29's which will not help you if staying stock. both, along with hitting up the wrecking yard would at least save you some down time and shop expenses. it's a tough dilemma, but if you plan to stay stock, the elocker should really be more than adequate, it's the larger tire size that ends up doing them in from what i have read. off road solutions also sells an elocker wiring harness simpler than the factory one for around $150

 

[ntsqd]

My friend Mike Carter did the elocker install years ago. The control circuit is nothing special. Scroll a little more than 1/2 down the page:

http://67.122.16.97/carterman/4runner/mods/locker/

I don't see 2 relays, some wire, an indicator light, and a SPDT (2X momentary) switch being $150 worth of parts.