Locker options: What am I looking at cost-wise?

[Martinjmpr]

Could somebody be kind enough to tell me what those E-lockers for the Taco sell for new?

We dont have e-lockers here in austrailia and im just wondering how much it would cost to fit to my 07 hilux?

would I need a new centre diff housing for it or can I drill a hole in my current one to fit?

also, how strong are the e-lockers in comparison to an ARB? on a scale of 1-10 with ARB being a 10 ?

thanks in advance

AFAIK they are not sold "new" unless you buy them as replacement parts from Toyota.

I guess you could buy one from a Toyota dealer in the US and have it shipped to AU but I'll bet for the cost of that you could buy an ARB and have enough left over to drive your vehicle around Australia a couple of times!

Since you live in the Land of ARB, why not just go with the local solution? I've never heard anybody say that the E-locker was better or stronger than the ARB, just that it was cheaper if you put in a used axle from a junkyard and did the work yourself.

 

[grillmasterp]

My actual cost to have my ARB rear locker set up the first time in 2004
(obviously prices have increased)
RD-89 - $525
ARB Compressor - $125
Labor - $0 (did it myself with a buddy's guidance)
Misc Parts - $125 (1 carrier bearing, misc shims, RTV, Axle Seals etc...)

Some subtle Pro's of ARB over the Toyota Elocker :
Instant engagement/disengagement
Even thought he E-locker is push button, You may still have to occasionally roll forward/backward a few feet until it engages/disengagement.

Fail open Design-
This is a safety issue - cut the air supply and the ARB locker will disengage
The E-locker could be stuck in the locked position if the Actuator fails. (Not likely , but possible)


I would price out an new or used E-locker replacement for comparison
Labor should be less for an E-locker swap, especially on an 04
Don't forget that you can recoupe the cost of the E-locker by selling your old rear axle & diff.

 

[madizell]

I simply don't play in the same league as people who don't think $1,500 isn't a lot of money. I don't downplay the value (I have a pair of Air Lockers), but I saved for almost 2 years to buy them.

Go back to the first page of this string and review the originator's first post, and then his response to cost. He started out by saying that transplanting a junk yard axle was not an option. He also stated that $1,500 is not out of the question. Given these two observations only, all remaining discussion about E-locker axle swaps (other than new in the box), and about which install is cheaper, would have to be seen as subjective or a bit off-point. Certainly no one wants to spend more than they have to for this or any modification, but the Toyota E-locker and the ARB are not equivalent units. Someone above mentioned that the e-locker is okay for modest tire sizes. The ARB does not have this limitation. That should suggest something about how the units are built.

I am not saying $1,500 is chump change. $1,500 is $1,500 regardless of whose pocket it comes out of. I am referring to value more than cost per se. With few exceptions, the concensus opinion is that the ARB is the better unit. If the gentleman can afford it and wants the best, why not recommend it?

 

[heeltoe989]

I have ARB's back and front with 4:56 gears, I've never had an issue with them, and they've always worked in the tough stuff warm or really cold (-40C)

Yes they are a bit expensive, but when you build trucks that are being used like we use them, I want stuff to work when I need it to or I'm walking home.:26_7_2:

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

I did the Tacoma diff mod as well. It was low mileage and I lucked out and found a complete assembly for $275 through car-part.com (admittedly really cheap). Came to about $450 with additional necessary parts and shipping using the 4x4wire guide.

The same approach was also very important for me (extreme reliability). I considered it a temporary solution until I could build something stronger, but it worked just great so I retained it permanently. I also put the diff through absolute hell by powering a Cummins 4BT through it, towing etc. They are much stronger than widely believed and I had zero issues. Most junk yard vehicles of this age are wrecks so you can assume the vehicle was running will and there were no diff issues when the vehicle was decommissioned. Diff issues are also very seldom on Toyota vehicles.

It is definitely the method I'd recommend. For wiring options you have several choices, most of which do let you engage the diff when you want. There is a sliding gear in the house much like a 4WD front axle locking hub. It will not kick in until you actually need the locker (aka a wheel slips) or you go around the corner. So it is a very smart design. It does instantly disengage no matter what. If it breaks you can leave it in a locked position unlike an ARB. Likewise ARBs generally work excellently, but they can have issues with air loss and cease to lock.

I would do it again in a heartbeat and currently plan to do it again assuming I build my '91 Mini Truck project I'm currently considering.

 

[DaveInDenver]

ISo it is a very smart design. It does instantly disengage no matter what. If it breaks you can leave it in a locked position unlike an ARB. Likewise ARBs generally work excellently, but they can have issues with air loss and cease to lock.

One point to make here. The Toyota electric locker requires an activation to lock and another to unlock. So if the mechanism or wiring breaks during use you might be stuck in the locked position (less than ideal for driving home on pavement). This is different than the ARB, which when pressure is removed it will unlock no matter what. It's a default safe design and the only way it can be left locked is if the diff actually breaks, which is a problem no matter what. Neither philosophy is 100% ideal, so you have to be ready to fix whatever can go wrong with your type of locker in the field. It might be as easy as yanking the locker motor off and unlocking it by hand or a $5 air line coupling, but everything has a failure mode.

 

[crawler#976]

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116471

$450.00 DRUM TO DRUM!

 

[taco chaser]

I've got a complete 03 elocked tacoma rear with 4.88 yukons, solid spacer and shim pack, Trailgear diff armor, with about 8000 miles on it for sale: $800 OBO. I will not seperate the 3rd, it's a complete package.. Also i have a complete stock Dana 70 rear for cheap.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116471

$450.00 DRUM TO DRUM!

Boy that is a score for someone...

 

[JJackson]

Here's an e-locker axle for sale a AZTTORA.http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116471