Los Angeles -Class Attack Sub(urban), Build / Collected Werks topic - '02 k1500 Z71

Burb One

Adventurer
DAMN, that's expensive.

Honestly, what are you going over that needs a deflector there? I go through some pretty crazy ********, off trail and on, and never once had a boot rip, or anything else there. I understand it happens, but now with the miles and miles off road and it never close to happening I'd say the extra CV we carry is the insurance itself, no need for the complication and weight of these deflectors.

In fact, I'd be incredibly worried about the deflectors being worse for this problem. They'll just become a basin for mud (and then rocks) to get stuck up there and cause some real trouble. Also- if it bent or ripped (or even just the mud caking up) and it contacted the boot, it would cause a continuous friction point on the boot, and thats what would cause the boot to fail.) As well, if it's big sticks and riff-raff you're worried about, it will just cause another point for getting stuck and then leverage to break/rip something like a brake line rather than just pass on through. You don't see that type of protection on really much out there, because IMO there's really no need. The closest thing is protection for the bottom of the control arm itself as a skid , but our front lower control arms are pretty beefy and not thin stamped metal, so they can take a beating.

I have some video somewhere of me going through some washboard roads that were underwater for 2-3 weeks, and all of the sticks/ logs ended up being the trail. We're talking about 2-4 foot diameter trees stacked all over the trail, plus all pointy, broken branches that come with it. You can see the broken branches go through the suspension and everything stayed intact (most important thing there is not the boots, but the brake line). What was most worrying there was the gas tank........

Even more recently, I ended up "ice breaking" through 3-4 inches of ice in a mud puddle. That was the first time I actually thought about the boots getting friction, because by the time I ice-breakered through the puddle, the ice had refrozen in the wheel wells as giant chunks- again no damage. What did happen was my rear emergency brake froze on, because the water inside the lever in the axle froze. After getting to camp, there was at least 100 pounds of ice sitting throughout my front control arms, IN the subframe braces, and on top of all skid plates.

Video is below. I was in fact not stuck on a log. It was all the ice I had broken up, and it stacked underneath my truck and I high centered. Remember, I am lifted, and on 35's. It was a ton of ice. I ended up backing up and out, and we went on a "bypass." When I first hit the puddle, " I knew I had screwed up when I started seeing chunks the size of a grapefruit shooting 30-40 feet in front of me. If I didn't have steel bumpers and front skids, it would have been a bad story. The area around the hubs were unscathed.

 
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Burb One

Adventurer
O ya the lower front ball joints are a PAIN. I broke so many ball joint tools and a Harbor Freight Press 40T press getting them out. I have told myself, next time I will just be replacing the whole control arm (they've got 230k+ miles on them) or at least bring the whole arm to a shop and throw them a few bucks to press them out. (this is in fact what Burb Two and Three did) Not worth the time and struggle without a massive press, especially if they've been in there awhile. I really want to make, or have made stock geomtery boxed front lower control arms for these trucks with bolt in ball joints. Would be nice (especially also for trail repairs if it ever comes to it).

Also, if there's any control arm that needs a skid plate ,it's the rear lowers. We are all on the boxed Spohn's, but if you're on the stock ones, eventually you'll fall on, or a rock will grab you, and bend them (I think this is a Fj, but you get the picture)

516080
 
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rayra

Expedition Leader
Hell I bent the ******** out of mine just mistakenly putting a floor jack under it. I have the boxed Spohn as well, now.

I got the passenger lower arm swapped out today, had to use the fire wrench on it. I tried a couple different ways of hammering it loose, as I removed each attached part. I eventually said f it and grabbed the MAPP bottle. Had the nut on the ball joint stud, floor jack under that with some upward pressure. Left the axle in. Got the inner bottom of the steering knuckle heated, boot crispy, grease on fire a little. Let it sit a couple minutes and gave it a couple good whacks with the 3# maul and it came apart.

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Got a piece of thin galvanized sheet metal from the HVAC section of Lowes, 2'x3' 18? gauge, to make the firts test pieces for the covers. $11. Not in the hardware / metals section. Similar sheet of thin steel or aluminum was in the mid-$30s there.
I'm just going to have to start going to some regional industrial supply shops as I roam around L.A. when I have the money in my pocket to buy the stuff on the spot if I find a reasonable price.

You're right about it being a trap for mud / flood debris. 95% of my 'off road' time is in high desert scrub. Cactus, spiny succulents and the Sagebrush Menace are my chief hazards. And some sharp rip-rap one in a while. Long ago I saw some A-arm plates that were louvered on their underside, very sechsy.

I might get a prototype pair cut up, bent and installed by the end of this coming weekend. But if I can't it will be a few weeks before I make any progress on this, as I'm ramping up to building a rewood outdoor kitchen counter / dual grill setup and some other outdoor wood-work rehabs later in the month and thru Memorial weekend.

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XJLI

Adventurer
I'm going to have to do my LCA ball joints eventually and I think you guys just scared me into just buying new arms.... especially since you west coast dudes are having trouble.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
First time apart in 17yrs /150k mi, it wasn’t unexpected. Had similar trouble when I changed the uppers.
When I shopped around the complete arm with bushings and ball joints was only about $40 more than just buying bushings and joints. So it was pretty much a wash for me in terms of convenience, vs having to take it apart and pay someone to press out the old parts and press in the new.
 

lilkia

Active member
Popping the joint apart is easy if you use the right technique. You need to hold a heavy sledge (12lb or bigger) to act as a damper on the backside then ********** it with a 5lber. My truck had 200k on the original bjs when I did it. Second whack on each popped em apart.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Well I tried all the usual tricks. Changed a lot of ball joints over nearly 40yrs of wrenching on my own vehicles. Hammering to deform the knuckle fit around the ball joint stud does usually do it. I also put the nut back on the stud so it was flush with the stud and gave me a broader area to hit, when trying to hammer the stud up thru the knuckle, that didn't help either. Finally had to heat the knuckle around the ball joint stud and let thermal expansion break the bond.

Drove a valley over this morning to pick up some 6"x6"x8' redwood posts for my holiday weekend grill counter build, my storage drawer / platform is still taking a beating and holding up pretty well. The 'sacrificial edge trim' is well, being sacrificed. Not even sure where I stashed the other fresh set of trim that I made when I made the platform.

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I definitely bent the inner tie rod. Thing's wiggling all over going down the road, glad I still have my oldest tires on the front. Just going to order another inner and get it in soon. Then I can finally go get a full proper alignment.
I'm still hanging on to the replaced lowers to use as forms for the sheet / plate metal forming. The ball joint / stud in the arm I just replaced is totally flopping around loose. Some of that is probably from me hammering on it. But I know it was well worn before I started.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Managed a little more farting around today with the control arm plate prototype. Still can't find my angle gauge, but I'm pretty sure the face angle is ~55deg.
Bent the curved end of the plate to more closely fit near the lower ball joint. Trimmed some more off at the frame rail end, which I had just added. Sitting on the ground it was obvious there needed to be more room on that end.

I also want to do something about the farcical chin plate on these vehicles, it's plastic. And I'd like to extend its horizontal reach to just beyond the frame rails.

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rayra

Expedition Leader
Finished replacing the lower and upper control arms, bushings, ball joints and re-replacing the right inner tie rod, still haven't got it aligned and I've STILL got a shifting-clunk noise going on. Getting worried about it now. Really have to crawl over and under the whole thing and maybe have the missus put it in drive and repeatedly hti and release the brakes while I walk around and under and get a better idea of where the noise is coming from.
I've got new u-joints sitting here waiting to be installed. I just got an email alert that engine and trans mount kit is back in stock at rockauto and I'm very concerned it might be my idler arm mount. And I'm going to pull my front brakes apart and look for loose mount bolts, put some blue goop on the brake pads.
Something is moving that shouldn't be.

but I'm still plodding along on my grilling counter. It's consuming all of my free time, going on a month. Gonna be another week or two before I get it finished. About to go out in the heat and use some metal framing studs to fashion supports for the grills.

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I'm using metal wall studs to create the support framing for the kitchen remodel stone remnants that will be the surface for this double grill counter. As well as fashioning the metal studs to act as a bit of a heat shield for the wood perimeter of the counter. Replacing the cross-bracing 2x4s with metal. The counter will open on the back and ends and a large opening behind the hood on the stainless.

Just finished hanging the electrical conduit setup for branching off of the pool equipment power circuit (GFCI). Grill counter will have a dimmer switch for the lights and a plug. Might get an electrical rotisserie for the grill.

It's gonna look a good bit like this when I'm done, with two pairs of Z-braced doors in the front.

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rayra

Expedition Leader
I'm on the north edge of Greater L.A., near Magic Mountain. I'm in San Fernando Valley a few times a month. I try to avoid the basin as much as I possibly can. But if you can recommend a place somewhere in the north half with reasonable prices on 1/8" or 3/16" common plate, something like 6063, I'm all ears.
 

quickfarms

Adventurer
Have you tried ramcast in van nuys, I deal with there Pomona yard, pattons has a place in Burbank called Queen City steel.

Another place is industrial metals in Burbank

Keep an eye on Craigslist, I have bought a fair amount of new surplus steel plate for scrap prices.
 

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