...If you're like Mr JWest,
Wut?!
Blaise, you just don't need to be running the struts all the time or on the highway any higher than factory neutral, period. There is also ZERO reason to do so other than thinking it looks cool but when you're driving it, you can't appreciate that so who is there to impress?
I'd rather take my corners at higher speed with much more stability and also have better roadway dynamics from the struts at 0.
Of road like an actual 'trail' (not just a gravel forest rd) it can be nice to have just a bit more full time while out there, but even then I don't feel the full +50 is necessary and will often roll at +25 unless really needed. This extra provides a little absorption of the bumps up into the strut and compression range for dips. (I know you know that so I'm just stating it for anyone new to this)
Also, you wrote "balance spacers" but I don't think everyone will know what you mean. I installed strut spacers, not sure what balance was to mean. It didn't balance anything. It actually pushed out of balance the geometry....I am however continually testing slightly lower height setting to see where I can retain good highway compression range. If I could sit 20mm lower, that would put the CV well within what is likely a long term viable position. However, we don't really have data on 50-100,000 miles on CV's that are being used with the suspension at +50-62mm full time. I just don't like the idea so Im shooting for -15-20 from the +50mm the strut spacer created.
The biggest thing anyone can do though for the lr3/4 is simply remove the tight clearance areas. With those mods, this whole page is a non-issue as no lift whatsoever via rods or llams is needed to use a 31.5-32" tire in all conditions. Just trim away and it works great, ride height remains ideal, etc.
However, the best combination there is using llams to lift on-the-fly in 2 steps rather than being limited to the factory all or nothing and under 29mph.
If I were to chose tires again, it would be a size not available before, the BFG AT KO2 in 265/70-18. All the fender liner mods are required but then it's just play time as they tuck in on full flex and also are tall enough to squat out fantastically when at 24 psi zone. That's the best ratio too, tall but square profile in section on the wheel with little bulge under full inflation. These aren't lightweight jeeps that will work well on massively wide tires narrower wheels, unless you like the wallowing boat effect.
Ideal sizes in 18":
265/65 31.5"
265/70 32.6"
275/65 32"
275/70 - 33.2" (my favorite next time but will be harder to fit on lr4's due to offset required over the brakes)
The beauty with the tallest tire you can fit, not widest, is that when psi down to low 20's, you also gain articulation by way of the tire itself. You also can air down lower with more sidewall. So it's a multiplying effect as long as the fender liner can accommodate them.
I mainly put the strut spacers in for more down travel but not to actually use the full max strut travel like factory "extended mode" will do. When it did that there was zero articulation left, just siff stilts, with the spacer you can limit yourself to the same total body to ground extension, but while retaining some flex. They also all slightly larger tire size which as noted above, ads to more ground clearance, lower psi, etc.
With a lighter vehicle than mine, a lot of these suspension and handling attributes would be less noticeable. The weight pushes it around so I notice even small changes in the set up underneath especially rolling 75-80mph on I90 through some of the big curves with undulating pavement.
