LR3 owners sound off, which tires?

[zelatore]

This is a misleading statement and simply untrue for how most people would use the vehicle IF they are fitting anything other than the stock tires. While during normal street driving there may be "minor rubbing", any compression of the rear wheels up into the arch will cause dramatic rubbing and damage to the fender liner and parts beneath it. Even using the "access" mode would rub significantly. The modification for this tight area would not be considered "minimal" by most people unless they have their own shop and experience with such things.

I suppose everybody has a different opinion of what 'minor rubbing' and 'minimal trimming' means; therein lies the 'rub' with the web.

The inner fender liner would indeed be damaged if you did no trimming. However, the 'damage' would simply be that it would wear a hole in the area at the forward edge of the wheel well. That's hardly significant. The worst thing about that would be listening to the noise when it does rub. Once it wears through the plastic it could contact the metal body seam under the liner. However, it would only contact that under heavy articulation, not cruising down the highway, so it would be minimal. The tire obviously won't hurt the metal seam, though it *might* eventually grove the tire tread a bit after extensive use.

If you have the HSE with the rear AirCon, then you may also contact the aluminum coolant tubes that run next to the body seam after wearing through the plastic. Again, being metal, occasional contact would take a very long time to cause any actual damage.

As noted, on mine I simply removed the plastic fender liner and re-routed the a/c lines then trimmed down the body seam and re-installed the plastic. Then used a heat gun to soften the plastic and push it out of the way a bit. Hasn't rubbed since. Oh, and I had it in access mode just today

I can understand that some people might not want to take this on themselves if they are not comfortable with a spanner. But that doesn't mean it's not a simple/minor mod.

Also, as noted in my prior posts, I trimmed about 1/8 to 1/4" of plastic from areas of the front wheel wells to avoid rubbing at full lock, mostly when backing. Obviously you would only get that under very limited circumstances, but as it was such an easy thing to do you might as well do it while you've got the tool box open.

 

[zelatore]

As a further note, if you happen to be in the NorCal area and want to take a look at my rig or would like some help making these changes on your one I'd be happy to help.

 

[Jwestpro]

I suppose everybody has a different opinion of what 'minor rubbing' and 'minimal trimming' means; therein lies the 'rub' with the web.

The inner fender liner would indeed be damaged if you did no trimming. However, the 'damage' would simply be that it would wear a hole in the area at the forward edge of the wheel well. That's hardly significant. The worst thing about that would be listening to the noise when it does rub. Once it wears through the plastic it could contact the metal body seam under the liner. However, it would only contact that under heavy articulation, not cruising down the highway, so it would be minimal. The tire obviously won't hurt the metal seam, though it *might* eventually grove the tire tread a bit after extensive use.

If you have the HSE with the rear AirCon, then you may also contact the aluminum coolant tubes that run next to the body seam after wearing through the plastic. Again, being metal, occasional contact would take a very long time to cause any actual damage.

As noted, on mine I simply removed the plastic fender liner and re-routed the a/c lines then trimmed down the body seam and re-installed the plastic. Then used a heat gun to soften the plastic and push it out of the way a bit. Hasn't rubbed since. Oh, and I had it in access mode just today

I can understand that some people might not want to take this on themselves if they are not comfortable with a spanner. But that doesn't mean it's not a simple/minor mod.

Also, as noted in my prior posts, I trimmed about 1/8 to 1/4" of plastic from areas of the front wheel wells to avoid rubbing at full lock, mostly when backing. Obviously you would only get that under very limited circumstances, but as it was such an easy thing to do you might as well do it while you've got the tool box open.

These are great examples to offer up but I still think your presentation is somewhat misleading for anyone not already very clearly familiar with the specifics.

For the fender liner we cut away the entire area in question and riveted in thicker material making use of the new space creating the most clearance possible as well as improving the durability of the liner itself.

The aluminum tubes (which actually are the rear heater lines for supply and return) would be destroyed in one good rub/crunch because they are very thin material. In fact you can bend them with your fingers just screwing around during repositioning.

Apparently you don't care but I would not want a 1/8"-1/4"+ cut into the circumference of my tire nor would I want my tire to be ripping against parts it shouldn't be. That's just asking for trouble. Worn unprotected seam metal is a great way to introduce corrosion.

Many people who have an LR3 built with a number of heavy items will experience direct rub while on the highway upon driving through a "dip" which plummets the vehicle weight down while not being able to compensate fast enough for the compression. Using normal highway height and 32" tire will result in rub at the rear wheel bulge - at highway speed, and therefor with a more significant degree of abrasion and force into those bulges. This is not even "full" compression like one would find off-roading under deep articulation.

Anyway, the method we used allows a 32" tire in "access" then another -1.5" lower for the ultimate in garage crawling. There is the slightest rubbing bit it's actually up in the top of the fender liner in a 1"x2" area with nothing solid immediately behind it.

In the front I have a LOT more than just 1/4" plastic trimmed and with 32" there is still a little turning in super low mode but that is to be expected.

My goal has actually been to created safe clearance for rud 4x4 snow chains on 265/65x18 tires. The only thing remaining is space behind the front wheel at the upper control arm which a spacer will handle of course.

 

[srschick]

Those of you with the 265/65r18 Duratracs: how have they held up, considering the "lower" load rating being used with the heavy LR3/4?

 

[Mx468]

Hankook Dynapro AT RF 10

I got Hankook dynapro at rf 10 265 60 18 and they are awesome. I've had them on for 14,000 miles and they still look brand new.
Here's a great article on a tire shootout with the Hankooks against BF's and Toyo Open Country.
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/w...ce=cxrecs&cx_navSource=related-right#cxrecs_s

 

[jckstein]

Those of you with the 265/65r18 Duratracs: how have they held up, considering the "lower" load rating being used with the heavy LR3/4?

I would also like to hear any first hand experience with this!

 

[Scarab]

Recently switched from duratrac to Cooper Zeon LTZ on the standard HSE 19s and had chance to give them a serious test last weekend at a very wet and slippery chalk quarry with some nice sticky muddy spots too.

I find them very comparable to the duratracs but with increased traction on loose steep surfaces which I was pleasantly surprised with.

 

[jckstein]

In my recent tire research, I have come across something and I really dont know what to think about it. Ive been drawn to the Duratracs for many of the obvious reasons based on popular reviews, and better snow performance than other AT tires. Unfortunately, the size that i'm looking for is 265/65R18, and that does not come in an LT tire for the Duratrac..

My initial choice was to just go for a set of Blizzaks for the winter, and when I go on Bridgestones website and do the tire calculator based on an LR3, it recommends a Blizzak DMV1 which is an XL passenger tire. I decided to look at the actual specs of each tire. The "approved" Blizzaks have a load index of 112, and a max load of 2,469lbs and 50psi max in 255/65R18. Comparing that to the Duratracs in 265/65R18, while rated as an SL tire, they have a load index of 114 and a max load of 2,601lbs and 51psi max. Does anyone know if there is something thats hidden behind the SL and XL rating that would making a seemingly weaker tire work for the truck just because its labeled as an XL? Im sure tire-wall strength and whatnot are factors, but logic tells me that whatever little parts are stronger, it must equate to an overall higher load max which the Duratrac has.

So does this all mean that a SL Duratrac is more capable for load than an XL Blizzak? If the Blizzak is 'approved' shouldnt the Duratrac then work fine too even its its not?

Hopefully someone knows, because I sure don't!

Thanks!

 

[srschick]

I decided to look at the actual specs of each tire. The "approved" Blizzaks have a load index of 112, and a max load of 2,469lbs and 50psi max in 255/65R18. Comparing that to the Duratracs in 265/65R18, while rated as an SL tire, they have a load index of 114 and a max load of 2,601lbs and 51psi max. Does anyone know if there is something thats hidden behind the SL and XL rating that would making a seemingly weaker tire work for the truck just because its labeled as an XL? Im sure tire-wall strength and whatnot are factors, but logic tells me that whatever little parts are stronger, it must equate to an overall higher load max which the Duratrac has.

What a conundrum trying to figure all this out!

One thing to remember is that putting a P-metric tire on a light truck (which the LR3/4 is, at the least!), the load rating should be decreased by 9%. (why that is I've never found an answer to. at what weight do you need to make this equation?)
So that 2601 lbs is actually 2340 lbs per tire. And that's at 35 psi. (which I assume would be the same at whatever psi you inflate to above 35 to the max of 51?)

So the problem I have, and probably many others is... what tire?
Do I take the chance with the 265/65r18 Duratrac, which falls above the recommended load rating, but is NOT XL rated? From what I hear it's a great tire, especially for those in the middle winter belt (below Chicago-ish), where it's nice to have good traction, but do not need dedicated snow tires. And I assume, like me, are considering it mostly as a DD tire, with minimal off-road use.

Or do I tough it up and go for the E-rated LT tire, with a harsher ride, but tougher and more sturdy. Such as the 285/60r18 GG AT2, Terra Grappler (G2), or 265/65 BFG TAKO.

 

[jckstein]

What a conundrum trying to figure all this out!

One thing to remember is that putting a P-metric tire on a light truck (which the LR3/4 is, at the least!), the load rating should be decreased by 9%. (why that is I've never found an answer to. at what weight do you need to make this equation?)
So that 2601 lbs is actually 2340 lbs per tire. And that's at 35 psi. (which I assume would be the same at whatever psi you inflate to above 35 to the max of 51?)

So the problem I have, and probably many others is... what tire?
Do I take the chance with the 265/65r18 Duratrac, which falls above the recommended load rating, but is NOT XL rated? From what I hear it's a great tire, especially for those in the middle winter belt (below Chicago-ish), where it's nice to have good traction, but do not need dedicated snow tires. And I assume, like me, are considering it mostly as a DD tire, with minimal off-road use.

Or do I tough it up and go for the E-rated LT tire, with a harsher ride, but tougher and more sturdy. Such as the 285/60r18 GG AT2, Terra Grappler (G2), or 265/65 BFG TAKO.

Ahh, I did not know about the 9% rule.. Im curious as to where you're getting 35 psi though, as a 9% decrease of 50psi is 45.5psi?

I am literally in the exact same predicament as you. The car will be used mainly in Colorado (with a little time in Maine), so i'm looking for exactly what you describe; a tire that will be used much of the time on dry roads, but also one thats capable for taking me through Rocky mountain snow storms and a bit of off road exploring. Thats why I've been lead to the Duratrac, but this size debacle is proving to be tedious. Many people have apparently ran the 265/65R18, and I've heard no specific negatives, but its still nerve-wracking to push these limits.

Then on the other size, its also nerve-wracking to run the LT size Duratrac and have to deal with shaving and modifying the wheel wells. Truly a sticky situation

 

[mpinco]

XL tires are simply P-rated tires that can be run at higher pressure, increasing load capacity.

P-rated 35psi
XL-rated 41psi

The heavy LR3/4 will roll these tires in corners, with shorter tire life. Towing a trailer with my LR4 I could 'feel' the truck squirm with the P-rated tires it had on it when I purchased it. Moved to LT (light truck) E-rated (old 10 ply rating) tires and that is is gone. I do not run the tires at 80 psi. Have backed off to 45psi (still experimenting) , ride is fine and increase tire pressure when I need to.

Thought I read that those with P rated Duratrac tires have sidewall issues off road?

Edit add: Should also add that when I was running stock P-rated tires the LR4 had 20" wheels and virtually no sidewall height! Can't imagine running 18" wheels and P-rated that would roll even more. I moved to 18" for the LT tires.

 

[jckstein]

XL tires are simply P-rated tires that can be run at higher pressure, increasing load capacity.

P-rated 35psi
XL-rated 41psi

The heavy LR3/4 will roll these tires in corners, with shorter tire life. Towing a trailer with my LR4 I could 'feel' the truck squirm with the P-rated tires it had on it when I purchased it. Moved to LT (light truck) E-rate (old 10 ply rating) tires and that is is gone. I do not run the tires at 80 psi. Have backed off to 45psi (still experimenting) , ride is fine and increase tire pressure when I need to.

Thought I read that those with P rated Duratrac tires have sidewall issues off road?

To my knowledge, the rating XL or P is also relative to the tire size. So with a bigger tire like the Duratrac 265/65, its relative pressure makes it SL instead of XL even though the value is higher than the XL rated and smaller Blizzak (255/60). Relativity is cool and all, but isnt it just the values that are important?

Would love to see any sources you have on stability issues with people running P rated Duratracs.
Thanks

 

[mpinco]

SL or XL are P-metric passenger vehicle tires and depending on tire, have from 2 to 6 plies? You would need to determine that for each tire.

Tire Tech Information/General Tire Information

LT in E range is the old 10-ply

 

[jckstein]

SL or XL are P-metric passenger vehicle tires and depending on tire, have from 2 to 6 plies? You would need to determine that for each tire.

Tire Tech Information/General Tire Information

LT in E range is the old 10-ply

So are you saying that a P-metric Duratrac can not be run at 51psi (45.5psi with 9% reduction), and instead needs to be at 35psi?

 

[mpinco]

So are you saying that a P-metric Duratrac can not be run at 51psi (45.5psi with 9% reduction), and instead needs to be at 35psi?

No, for max psi you would need to follow the tire manufactures spec. Tire construction will set the max psi. This is where the industry gets a little vague. The 265/65-18 Duratrac max psi is 51lbs and is still a P-metric SL rated tire. But no one runs their tires at max pressure. That's where the vehicle manufacturers recommendations come in. LR3/4 is 36/41 F/R? Between SL and XL? But LR says a load index of 112 is ok. Hmmmmm ...........LOL

Tire spec's for these trucks should really be XL or E-rated, not SL. Maybe that is what Cooper Tires was thinking as their "Sport Utility" category includes the Zeon LTZ, all of which are XL rated.

Next question - do you air UP or DOWN for off road? Down was the practice but now with larger wheels and low profile tires, some say UP to prevent the sidewall from bulging and being punctured. That might be the case for a P-rated tire on a heavy LR3/4.