Lucinda Build

BajaSportsmobile

Baja Ironman
JB Conversions offers an SYE for the 241c that will let you run a longer drive shaft, which might help. I used one several years ago and it is a nice product.

From the picture, it looks like your pinion center line and output shaft center line are not parallel which would cause vibration.
 

chiliVANilli

Adventurer
After doing research to find a SYE, JB has a good product, but horrible customer service. In most cases, it took at least 3 weeks to get in touch with someone. The "kit" I found at drivelinesuperstore comes ready to bolt in pretty much, where the JB requires the transfer case to be removed and then torn down to install their kit, which is no big deal for me. But their kit is also about the same price as the whole set up from the other place, which means I still have to buy a drive shaft. JB's SYE also doesn't offer a flange style yoke, and I can't seem to find CV joint without a flange, and I think the only way it is going to work without vibrations is to have a CV, because the shaft is so short. I'm still researching my options before committing.
 

BajaSportsmobile

Baja Ironman
Longer shaft would be the only real advantage of the JB unit and just wanted to make you aware of it, should you not have found them already.

In any case, traditional two u-joint shaft or CV joint shaft, you are going to need the change your pinion angle.
 

chiliVANilli

Adventurer
Longer shaft would be the only real advantage of the JB unit and just wanted to make you aware of it, should you not have found them already.

In any case, traditional two u-joint shaft or CV joint shaft, you are going to need the change your pinion angle.

You are correct sir! I have been trying to get them as close as possible. I have a set of 5* shims to replace the 3* shims I have now, but I will measure the angles first and make the correct angle shims if necessary or if I have to cut and reweld the perches(last resort) I will. The good thing is the more the shim, the longer the drive shaft will have to be. I am definitely going to have to get a new DS made either way, and will do the high angle CV when I do.
 

chiliVANilli

Adventurer
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Pics of the rear seats bolted in. Should be a good amount of storage under there, just need to build the sides and doors on it. I think I will also put some speakers in there, too. They kinda ended up in an odd spot, but that's where they need to be to get bikes and stuff in the back, and for the bed frame. It should work out pretty well for the bed with the way they fold flat.
 

chiliVANilli

Adventurer
While doing some test driving, I noticed my engine still wasn't really running smooth and I didn't feel like it was as powerful as it should be. It had a light lope as the RPM's ramped up from idle to about 1500 or so. Was acting like a vacuum leak, but I checked all that before and all the gaskets are new, so all that is good. I kept everything in it's stock form except for the air cleaner, which I had to change due to clearance issues and used a high flow K&N set up. There is a vacuum hose that comes from the manifold and went into air cleaner, so I adapted my K&N to use that same hose. Anyway, out of curiosity I pinched that hose off, and instantly my engine ran way better! So I put some clamps on it and drove it around. It had a ton more power and ran way smoother. I also lost alot of the vibration which I thought was coming from my driveline, not all, but alot. I guess my MAP sensor was freaking or something and telling the computer to send more fuel and giving it a rich running condition. So away went the hose and I put a plug on the port and one in the hole in my air cleaner and can't be happier with the results. I just have to set the timing again, now.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
View attachment 335285View attachment 335286
Anyone used either of these as insulation in their vans? The rolls 1/8" thick and 12"x15' and foil on one side and have adhesive on the back, doesn't say anything about water repelling, but it is made for wrapping duct work. The boards are 4'x8' in several thickness, with foil on the front, styrene in the middle and a plastic barrier on back, which is a vapor barrier, too. Both are available for pretty cheap at Home Depot. I am starting to work on the interior of my van and was looking at options and was most likely going to go with Reflectix, but I saw these today, and they seem like a good cheap option, but maybe not.

The Frost King insulation pictured will absorb water. Not the best choice for floors, but could work elsewhere. The adhesive is so-so though.

The polyiso board is good stuff. With a plywood overlay it can be used on the floor, and is fairly rigid. I will not absorb water. It is flexible enough that it can be bonded to walls/ceilings. I have seen some used Great Stuff expanding foam to bond the sheets to ceilings for maximum R Value.

Great Build BTW. I would roll it.
 
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chiliVANilli

Adventurer
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I finally figured out what I was going to do about my rear drive line problem. I decided not to do a slip yoke eliminator kit for a couple of reasons, but mainly because I don't really have the $$ right now. There are a couple of other things that are money hungry like my 4runner and my house, and they come first. So I decided to go with a slip yoke with a flange that bolts to a double cardan cv joint drive shaft from Tom Woods. They are definitely one of, if not the best companies in the off road industry IMO(drive shaft anyway). I spoke with the salesman and discussed my unusual situation and he told me where everything needed to be to make it work. So last Saturday I dropped my rear axle and changed my pinion shims from the 3* to the 5* so I could get my pinion pointing back up toward the output shaft on my t-case. The angle I was shooting for was 18* and luckily thats exactly where I ended up after putting the 5* shim in. I bolted the axle to springs and put the tires on to get it to ride height and I then took all of the necessary measurements.Then, I had to drop the axle again so I could spin the shims around and point the axle back down to get a better line up for the ujoints on my current drive shaft so I could drive it home. Total pain in the ***. The 5* shim got the pinion and output shaft within a few degrees of each other and definitely helped get rid of more vibrations, but not all, and the slip yoke is even farther out on the output shaft. Big difference. But that's OK, because I ordered a new shaft anyway.
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I ordered the new drive shaft Monday morning and it showed up around noon today! Talk about service! I'm going to throw it in on Saturday, which means I have to drop axle again and spin the shims back around to get the rear axle back where I need it for the new shaft. I really hope this fixes the problem so I can move on to other stuff.
 

chiliVANilli

Adventurer
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I dropped the rear axle and spun the pinion shims around and got the pinion pointed back to the out put of the t-case so I could install my new drive shaft today. The new drive shaft fit perfect and is super stout. All of the u-joints are 1 ton and the slip yoke is a little more than an inch and a half longer than the stock one. And YES!!! Finally my drive line vibrations are gone and finally a solution to my weird set up!! I didn't realize how bad the vibes were. The difference is amazing and and finally it's going to be nice to drive it without the vibrations and now some piece of mind. :smiley_drive:
 

chiliVANilli

Adventurer
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I also finally got around to replacing the stock steering arm with one designed for 4-6" of lift to get the drag link back to around level. It was at a pretty steep angle and was definitely causing some wandering issues. This definitely got things back to where they should be. And another great improvement in getting her more driveable and it feels much safer. Today was a very productive day and definitely 2 steps in the right direction. I can't wait to put some miles on her and start using it finally. There is still tons of work to do, though!
 

FarmerFrederico

Adventurer
Just finished the thread! I've been meaning to get around to reading it and finally did. Such a cool build, dude! You are in CO, correct? Hope to see it in real life some day!
 

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