M1010 Build. The Rompulance
- Thread starter dakota123
- Start date
dakota123
Adventurer
Thanks Guys! It was a blast really been enjoying this thing. Makes all the BS worth it 
ibanezer - So your cards still plugged in ? I wonder if it needs to have the card in to work ? Mines out because it just smokes....... was hoping i didnt have to buy a new card. I tried both the light blue and the darker one. Could you check on yours? I thought i read somewhere it was the lighter one.... ?
ibanezer - So your cards still plugged in ? I wonder if it needs to have the card in to work ? Mines out because it just smokes....... was hoping i didnt have to buy a new card. I tried both the light blue and the darker one. Could you check on yours? I thought i read somewhere it was the lighter one.... ?
ibanezer
Adventurer
Thanks Guys! It was a blast really been enjoying this thing. Makes all the BS worth it
ibanezer - So your cards still plugged in ? I wonder if it needs to have the card in to work ? Mines out because it just smokes....... was hoping i didn't have to buy a new card. I tried both the light blue and the darker one. Could you check on yours? I thought i read somewhere it was the lighter one.... ?
This is about the best thread that I found when I did mine:
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?59375-Manual-Glow-Plug-install
You're right it is supposed to be the lighter blue wire, next to the purple wire. I spliced my switch just like the picture shows, and mounted it to the little plate right under the column, mine is just a push button though.
This thread also sums up how the glow plugs fire and has a wiring diagram:
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?144924-How-To-Manual-Glow-Plug-Switch
If you wanted/needed to eliminate the card all together, I think you could wire a switch straight from the relay to a ground. So far my card hasn't caused any problems, so it was pretty quick and easy for me to just splice the switch in.
Outback
Explorer
I pretty much ended up replacing everything in my starting system as it was scavenged off for other CUCVs by the CUCV Mechs over the years it sat. The system really does work beautifully in stock form. I picked up my replacement card from Hillbilly. They are made by Vets and made better than stock from what I read. My last CUCV (M1028) had its original card from what I gather. At least not listed as being replaced. That was a 30 year old unit and worked just fine. The key to having your glow plugs work great is to replace them with new units right off the bat. Most get replaced one at a time. You can meter them to see if they are in working order while they are still in the block. For me it was worth the cost just to replace them all at once. My rig starts up instantly after the glow plug light goes out. Literally instantly. She did that after sitting for God knows how many years or decades without starting. And that was around Christmas last year in 20 degree weather.
The cost on the new card was $110.
The cost on the new card was $110.
dakota123
Adventurer
The passenger side needed a rebuild and the previous owner had already bought the brackets for it. So its just been one of those things on the list haha. Either way most of the stopping power in any vehicle is from the front brakes. I think they will be better in mud and dirt anyways.
The biggest problem with most of those rear disk setups is the loss of parking brake. Even with the Eldo calipers (with a little cam-lever actuator), it doesn't provide positive control. And if you wind up on a steep incline, that could be disastrous.
I haven't got it done yet, but years back i bought a bent AM 11.5 out of a early 2000s 2500HD. I cut the tube ends off to provide donor parts for upgrading a Corp 14 FF to disks. The difference is, these have an integral drum brake inside the disk. And as my '02 2500HD can prove, the parking brake will hold as well as anyone could want. I'm starting a build on an '85 Sub, and it will get a rear C14FF I have on hand. If and when I decide to install those disks, I'll post some pics, but with the entire tube end providing everything I need, the only issue I see is getting the Sub cables hooked up and working with the AAM hardware.
I haven't got it done yet, but years back i bought a bent AM 11.5 out of a early 2000s 2500HD. I cut the tube ends off to provide donor parts for upgrading a Corp 14 FF to disks. The difference is, these have an integral drum brake inside the disk. And as my '02 2500HD can prove, the parking brake will hold as well as anyone could want. I'm starting a build on an '85 Sub, and it will get a rear C14FF I have on hand. If and when I decide to install those disks, I'll post some pics, but with the entire tube end providing everything I need, the only issue I see is getting the Sub cables hooked up and working with the AAM hardware.
dakota123
Adventurer
A crew cab would be so epic on one of these!!
Means a lot man. I found a really good home for her with plenty of room to run and people who will work with her day in and day out. So it eases things a bit. Still hurts though. I did everything with that dog. It's definitely not the same going on my adventures without her.
dakota123
Adventurer
Just got back from a mammoth trip. No more leaks and no problems with the setup. To be completely honest its hard to tell if they work any better or not but again most your stopping power is in the front anyways so thats to be expected. However it definitely feels like it rolls a lot smoother than it did. Probably because my drums needed a rebuild anyways lol
Here are two photos from the trip this past weekend.
