M101A2 Trailer Purchase & Project


Got out there Friday night...about the time a cold front blew in... and had some one on one time with my Makita 4". No pics right now but I'm pretty close to having the frame stripped, hadn't planned on doing so but there was either a very light coat of tan that came right off...no primer, just bare metal... or there was coat over coat of paint and undercoating, some of which was caked and about to come off anyway.... so it's going to be pretty bare when I'm finished.

I'm going to paint the frame with undercoating for the most part, same for the underside of the box...then shoot in white on the sides. I think I may do Herculiner on the bed...over the rails, will take 1.5 to 2 gallons. IF I have any extra I'll coat the visible parts of the frame up front as well.

Now.. on to shocks. After reading a few threads, geared towards the M416 type of trailer I went with these shocks from NAPA, PN 94038 for $17.96 each.


Specs show to be:
Lower Mount : Loop Type 5/8" x 1 5/16"Shock Compressed Length : 11.25"
Shock Dust Shield : Yes
Shock Extended Length : 17.875"
Shock Parts Pack Part # : P411
Shock Travel Length : 6.625"
Upper Mount : Loop Type 5/8" x 1 5/16"

My measurements on the military shocks were about 11.75 compressed and 17.75 extended with 7/8 shock eyes. What was interesting is that the specs are pretty much the same on the following threads for the M416. Keep in mind that my shock eyes were a bit wallowed out and may have been 5/8" but either way, even if I have to drill them out a bit they should work fine. UPDATE: Shock studs are 3/4", rubber shock eyes are 5/8"...will have to drill the shocks accordingly. Here's what I used to bore them using my drill press and a level (comes with a set of 3 but I only needed the 3/4"): http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...0053&langId=-1&keyword=speedbor&storeId=10051



I'm going to copy/paste for posterity, keep in mind some of this is 6 years old:
This topic is a follow up to the recent threads about the elusive Gabriel Classic 82014 shock absorbers and my search for replacement shocks for MBT and M100 trailers:



I thought I would pass on everything I have recently learned about MBT and M100 shocks. Please feel free to add to this or correct any mis-information.

Shock Length:
MBT (from military maintenance manual TM10-1230 1942 printing): 10 7/16" (10.438) collapsed, 16 1/8" (16.125) extended

M100 (from military maintenance manual TM 9-871A 1951 printing): 10.37" collapsed, 16.43" extended

FYI on M416 shocks - The military technical manual for the M416 (TM 9-2330-251-14&P, September 1990 printing) does not list specifications for the shocks, only the CAGEC number (76445) and the part number (18459). The ORD part # for the M416 shock is 7088715.

If anyone can translate these numbers into a manufacturer and "civilian" part number, please let us know. (A google search revealed an M416 owner who measured his OE shocks - 11.5 collapsed, 17.5 extended, and several sites mentioned that they used the NAPA 94038 as a replacement.)

Update 6/18/07- information from Phil Pizzi:

1. CAGEC 76445 = Monroe
2. Nominal Extended Length = 17.438 inches
3. Nominal Compressed Length = 10.938 inches

Shock Manufacturers:
MBT - Gabriel for Bantam, Monroe for Willys;
M100 - Gabriel or Houdaille-Herschey.

Potential “Modern” replacements:
(Front shocks specified for a GPW, MB, CJ-2 and CJ-3 are all reported to fit, but as you can see below, the MB and early CJ front shocks specified by the various manufacturers and major parts chains all have different collapsed and extended lengths . So, unless you obtain military NOS shocks, the moral of the story appears to be “pick your compromise.”)

Gabriel Classic
82014 (discontinued in 2004) - 11.375" collapsed, 17.625" extended.
82007 - 11.375" collapsed, 18.23" extended

Gabriel Guardian
81676 - 11.12 collapsed, 17.73 extended
89201 (private branded, identical to 81676)
81147 - (length not published by Gabriel online)

HD 20722 (lengths unknown)
Gasmatic 59017 - 11.250" collapsed, 17.75" extended (Monroe claims this is not their part number, but it is on the Kragen website under this number)
Monroematic Plus 32207 - 11.250" collapsed, 17.875" extended
Sensatrac 5752 (lengths unknown)

94038 - 11.25" collapsed, 17.875" extended (perhaps a private branded Monroematic Plus 32207???)

Rancho (not suitable for restoration)
RS9906 - 11.75" collapsed, 17.375" extended
RS5006 - 11.75" collapsed, 18" extended
RS5119 - 11.75" collapsed, 18" extended

Explorer Procomp (not on my trailer please !!)
115509 (lengths unknown)

Brent Mullins Jeep Parts
7088715 - (update 6/23/06) Manufacturer unknown. Brent says these are military surplus, NOS in government packaging, for the M416. He does not know the collapsed and extended length. However, Brent's number is the same as the ORD part number for M416 shocks.

The technical manual for the M100 (TM 9-871-A June 1951) lists the same ORD part number for the shocks as the M416, and the October 1949 MB/GPW parts list, ORD 9 SNL G-503, shows the same ORD part # for the front shocks, therefore Brent's M416 shocks fit the M100 and MBT as well.

I'll get out there in the next several days to finish grinding then blast the bed and do some minor rust cleanup there. Not going to grind on it too much as it's pretty solid, just dirty and whatever I shoot should stick very nicely once degreased.
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I may cut the rear C channel and insert some oval 6" LED's but before I do that I was thinking about retrofitting the military housings with some LED's.

I removed the wiring harness as it was a little shabby but I'm going to use the connectors at the rear, if I use the military lights, and then install new wire going forward. No brakes, just a flat 4 plug.

I've searched around on here and Google but am not getting anywhere. Trying to keep costs reasonable, 6" LEDs are about $18 each but I'd like to keep the military lights.. just with LEDs. Worst case I can get the 12V bulbs from the store and go that route as well.



Best price I have seen on the Military LEDs is $50 for the set on Steel Soldiers. There are two people on there that sell fairly regularly for 50-70. I figure I have modified mine enough that I want to keep the Military lights to keep some of the heritage.


I'm just going to install some surface mount LEDs on the rear C channel under the gate...IF the gate won't hit them.


you should be fie with some surface mount lights as long s they arent more than 1/2 or 3/4 thick. The recessed ones with a grommet would be better.


Doesn't Get Out Enough
Flush-mounted is great if you can fit them and the rubber grommet will make them virtually shockproof. The standard 6.5" oval lights you see mounted in rubber grommets mostly have large connector shrouds on the rear that you don't normally see. Even with a right-angle wire connection this gives them an overall depth of just over 2". The actual size of the mounting hole might be a factor as well - http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Optronics/A70GB.html
Here are the LED units I have on my hitch carrier...

FWIW I really like the military lights, even if they are dim as hell. I'd mod those suckers.


I think I will go with the same lights...recessed LED's.

Finished grinding down the frame...got a lite coat of primer on it but the cold and wind stopped that. Having to wait for better weather next week or move the whole circus to another building that is enclosed...will probably wait.

Axle should be here any time. Ordered some 1.25" All Pro spacers, had a sale going.. 72.00 for a pair...these are hub centric on both sides which will work well.

Bought the NAPA 94038 shocks, just need to open up the shocks eyes an 1/8".
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Had a bit of warm weather yesterday so I managed to spray 3 coats of undercoating on the bottom side of the frame/springs, etc. Has to dry for 24 hours before I can flip it over and coat the top side. My axle is still MIA but my spacers and FJ lug nuts should be here tomorrow so I'll be ready when it shows. Pics are a little blurry for some reason but it turned out pretty nice.



I will flip it and coat the top this weekend then get the tub power washed and degreased, do a little rust cleanup here and there and then undercoat the bottom side. I'll pickup lights and wiring when the axle arrives and we'll start putting her back together. I'm going to run it by MAACO and one other place to let them quote me on shooting the FJ Iceberg white, if it's too high I'll do it myself....then deal with the bed...but at least it will be mobile.

Mark Harley

Expedition Leader
Very nice!
They are stout frames and make a great foundation for custom builds.
The 101a trailers sometimes get a bad rap because of their weight and size.

Mine pulls and hauls great and it is almost bullet proof!
Keep us posted on the paint decision. "$12.99 for a Harbor freight HVLP gun is a cheap investment."


My buddy has a HVLP gun if I need it.. my problem is simply time, or the lack of it and being winter it makes it difficult to get the painting accomplished.

I knocked 90% of the paint off of the frame then shot a quick coat of primer, mostly to keep it from flash rusting, so it has a pretty smooth surface for the undercoat. Looks good. If it doesn't dry black (looks more dark brown now) then I'll topcoat the visible areas with some semi flat.


I don't know how I missed yours under side pictures when I asked Mark over on his build, I was looking at your last post when I thought to ask him. Amazing work.


Axle in yet?

Sell the extra parts?
Post them on Steel Soldier.

Can't post on SS without at least 50 posts,which I don't have yet. Otherwise I it all posted on CL, here, FJ forums, Jeep forums...nada yet.

The axle is still MIA, I intend to get to the bottom of it on Monday.

Flipped the frame today and finished undercoating. Will cut the frame for rear LED's and weld the adjustable channel on next. Pulled the chains, their zinc coated, going to clean them up and maybe remove the hooks and a link or two then add some different hooks.

2012-02-19_15-17-31_524.jpg 2012-02-19_15-18-01_756.jpg

I'm ready for the axle. Bored the shock eyes out, they fit perfect (I'll show you how I did that later). Received the hubcentric spacer/adapters yesterday along with the FJ lugnuts. Just need an axle.

Was too muddy to get the Bobcat out so I could move the tub out of the shed to power wash it. After that I can undercoat, let dry for 24 hours and mount it to the frame.
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