TheRenaissanceTinker
Active member
Someone recently asked me how I convert M1101/2 to electric brakes and keep the factory parking brake levers so I thought I’d make a post. This is not a difficult project but I am going to assume you are a fairly competent shade tree mechanic with basic tools.
The parts you need:
*Dexter k23-113-00 and k23-112-00
These backing plates are a direct bolt on swap for the factory Hydraulics.
*Max Coupler for 3” channel mount
Part # MC3000
You can also use a regular 2” ball. The important part is that it is designed for a 3” wide drawbar
*Trailer Breakaway kit and 7 blade RV plug and cord
Any one will do. I usually just grab what ever is available at my local
Napa.
*2x 5/16 grade 8 bolts (3/4 length)
4x washers and 2x nylock nuts
* 12-15 feet of 12 gauge jacketed duplex wire
The process:
1) Pull the wheels/drums and disconnect the parking brake cable. Feed the cable and housing back through the backing plate and tuck them out of the way.
2) Remove the brake backing plates.
3) Bolt up the new electric backing plates. There is a Right and Left hence the two part numbers.
4) cut the ferrule off the end of the brake cable. I find it easier to compress the spring a little bit and grab the cable with a pair of needle nose. I use a Dremel with a cut off for this step. You want the cut to be as clean as possible. Save the spring you will need it later
5) Strip the plastic sheathing off approximately 4 inches of the cable.
6) Drill an 1/8th inch hole through the shoulder of the bolt as close to the head as you can. The brake cable without the plastic coating is exactly 1/8 inch so if your cut cable end is frayed at all it will be a nightmare to thread it through the bolt.
7) Mount the cable housing to the bracket on the back of the brake backing plate.
8) Measure the distance from the end of the cable housing to the leading edge of the parking brake lever. Cut the spring to that length.
9) Slip the spring over the cable and follow it with the bolt. Put 1 washer between the cable and the parking brake lever. Put the bolt through the lever and then put the second washer and lock out in place. I have found that the cable likes being on the outside of the lever and it is much easier to thread the nut this way.
That’s basically it. Adjust the cable length and tighten the bolt down.
YOU DONT NEED TO PULL THE CABLE VERY TIGHT! I grab the end of the cable and pull the slack out with my fingers. These parking brakes are very easy to apply. You shouldn’t have to apply any more pressure to the handle than you do to a car E Brake.
Reinstall the drums and wheels.
Install the brake away kit, wire up the brakes, remove the pintle hitch housing from the tongue and bolt on the hitch of your choice.
The parts you need:
*Dexter k23-113-00 and k23-112-00
These backing plates are a direct bolt on swap for the factory Hydraulics.
*Max Coupler for 3” channel mount
Part # MC3000
*Trailer Breakaway kit and 7 blade RV plug and cord
Any one will do. I usually just grab what ever is available at my local
Napa.
*2x 5/16 grade 8 bolts (3/4 length)
4x washers and 2x nylock nuts
* 12-15 feet of 12 gauge jacketed duplex wire
The process:
1) Pull the wheels/drums and disconnect the parking brake cable. Feed the cable and housing back through the backing plate and tuck them out of the way.
2) Remove the brake backing plates.
3) Bolt up the new electric backing plates. There is a Right and Left hence the two part numbers.
4) cut the ferrule off the end of the brake cable. I find it easier to compress the spring a little bit and grab the cable with a pair of needle nose. I use a Dremel with a cut off for this step. You want the cut to be as clean as possible. Save the spring you will need it later
5) Strip the plastic sheathing off approximately 4 inches of the cable.
6) Drill an 1/8th inch hole through the shoulder of the bolt as close to the head as you can. The brake cable without the plastic coating is exactly 1/8 inch so if your cut cable end is frayed at all it will be a nightmare to thread it through the bolt.
7) Mount the cable housing to the bracket on the back of the brake backing plate.
8) Measure the distance from the end of the cable housing to the leading edge of the parking brake lever. Cut the spring to that length.
9) Slip the spring over the cable and follow it with the bolt. Put 1 washer between the cable and the parking brake lever. Put the bolt through the lever and then put the second washer and lock out in place. I have found that the cable likes being on the outside of the lever and it is much easier to thread the nut this way.
That’s basically it. Adjust the cable length and tighten the bolt down.
YOU DONT NEED TO PULL THE CABLE VERY TIGHT! I grab the end of the cable and pull the slack out with my fingers. These parking brakes are very easy to apply. You shouldn’t have to apply any more pressure to the handle than you do to a car E Brake.
Reinstall the drums and wheels.
Install the brake away kit, wire up the brakes, remove the pintle hitch housing from the tongue and bolt on the hitch of your choice.
