highlandercj-7
Explorer
That's one sweet mil trailer resto.CLEAN! 
M416 lid hinge Pics please
- Thread starter Mayne
- Start date
Mayne
Explorer
Jeepcrz,
I like that, very clean and functional. Very nice trailer as well. I hope that my jalopy will some day look more silk purse, and less sows ear.
Lawrence,
I've admired your build for many moons now, super clean I'd like to know where to pick up the pull pin hinges, I like the idea of easily removing the lid for utility duty.
Thanks for the ideas, I really appreciate it.
Mayne
I like that, very clean and functional. Very nice trailer as well. I hope that my jalopy will some day look more silk purse, and less sows ear.
Lawrence,
I've admired your build for many moons now, super clean I'd like to know where to pick up the pull pin hinges, I like the idea of easily removing the lid for utility duty.
Thanks for the ideas, I really appreciate it.
Mayne
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Mayne said:
Mayne,
As I mentioned in my earlier post, it is not my trailer. When I first saw it I put the site in my favorites as I think it is one of the cleanest restoration I have seen. The owner posted it on jeepsunlimited.com and his name is Scott Blackburn, and his screen name on JU is sblack.
If you dig through his site http://blackburnimagery.com/joomla/ there are a lot of pictures of the project.
Apparently, he does website design for other companies (click on "website design" on the upper part of the screen http://www.blackburnimagery.com/Trailer_cost.html). Try calling one of the businesses and ask them for his contact info.
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ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
Carefully chosen tubing OD & wall thickness will give you what you're after. E.G. 1/2" OD tube with a 1/8" wall thickness yields a 1/4" diameter hole. Note that the ID's are approximate, so shoot for a little small and then you can easily drill it to the size you want.Mayne said:
As opposed to it being a little too big & rattling.
Search McMaster for 'steel tubing' and I think you'll find what you want in a reasonable length & shipped to you.
A source for the latch used in that very clean & nice trailer would be Austin Hardware.
Blackburn's M416
Sounds like you guys have some questions on my build. I just happened to notice the link to my site on the webstats. What's up? How can I help? I love this project and seeing these old rigs restored so let me know if I can help with your project. I even have some spare parts to donate and some good lessons on what not to do.
The hinge pins are from Ace Hardware here in Phoenix, AZ if I remember correctly. They are a bit tight for the sleeves we used, but with a bit of oil and a little use they work fine. I think you can get them from both McMaster and Austin Hardware if you know your exact size.
I learned a lesson about the lift struts the other day. Went to close the lid and one folded in half. With 250 lbs of lift each, it apparently was easier to become a hinge that strut. With a span that long a limiting strap is needed to keep this from happening. A simple loop up and around the underframe of the lid was enough to prevent further issues.
We took the trailer out a few weeks back into the Arizona monsoon slop. Ran perfect. Of course we now haul more crap with us on our trips. Here's a link to the images: http://blackburnimagery.com/postcards/williamstojerome/index.html
Scott
Sounds like you guys have some questions on my build. I just happened to notice the link to my site on the webstats. What's up? How can I help? I love this project and seeing these old rigs restored so let me know if I can help with your project. I even have some spare parts to donate and some good lessons on what not to do.
The hinge pins are from Ace Hardware here in Phoenix, AZ if I remember correctly. They are a bit tight for the sleeves we used, but with a bit of oil and a little use they work fine. I think you can get them from both McMaster and Austin Hardware if you know your exact size.
I learned a lesson about the lift struts the other day. Went to close the lid and one folded in half. With 250 lbs of lift each, it apparently was easier to become a hinge that strut. With a span that long a limiting strap is needed to keep this from happening. A simple loop up and around the underframe of the lid was enough to prevent further issues.
We took the trailer out a few weeks back into the Arizona monsoon slop. Ran perfect. Of course we now haul more crap with us on our trips. Here's a link to the images: http://blackburnimagery.com/postcards/williamstojerome/index.html
Scott
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Airborne Lee
Observer
sblackb said:
I'd like to ask you some questions. I had actually seen your site from a link at a different web site. http://vegasauto.net/m416.html.
Following links here got me to your site. I am happy to find you here....
Your top looks totally fabricated from scratch. Is it?
What thickness did you use?
What material did you use for the lid frame?
How much weight will yours hold?
Sorry for the questions but there are so few people who have done this to ask.
Here is my link I just posted today. http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8822
Airborne Lee said:
Airborne, great looking trailer. Looks pretty clean too from the pics. Wish mine didn't have so many dents.
I'll try to answer your questions the best I can and feel free to ask me to clarify if you need more details or certain pics.
A buddy of mine did the top for me. It is totally fabbed from scratch. The frame is 1.5" x 2.5" thin walled square stock. Cross braces are made from 3/4" and 1/2" square stock. the larger tube fits over the round rail of the tub (outside perimeter) and the 3/4" cross braces rest on the tub rails. The frame is beefed up with some angle plate where the Yakima rack mounts are attached. I have not tested the useful load of the lid, but figure the weakest part is the Yakima towers. The lid is just steel on steel so there's not a lot of give there. The cover for the lid is 16 gauge aluminum that we had bent and welded at a fab shop. Hard part was finding someone with a brake large enough. Once the shape was right we powder coated it and I laid down pads of clear silicone every 6 inches or so on the frame. I let these dry for several hours to skin over then installed the top, towers, and lock assembly. The goal here was to not have excessive rubbing of metal on metal parts. The downside I'm learning is more dust and mud gets into the tub when you really romp on it. One piece of advice is to not make your tolerances too tight. My lid rubs when you close it and it bugs the crap out of me.
I did a ton of research over on Pete's Vegas Auto site and got lots of feedback from many proud owners before setting out on my version. I still have to install gel cells, the tent system, and a water tank, but that will come later. Let me know if you have any good thoughts on those. Oh, and keep posting us pictures, I'd like to see the progress.
Airborne Lee
Observer
thank you so much for the info. Do you think your lid will support the weight of people in a tent?
trailer lid question
Airborne,
Yes, I think you would be fine with two average size people, tent system, gear, etc. You could always use some thicker walled stock to beef it up, but really the rack mounting points are the only part that takes the weight. The skin of the lid just keeps out the rain and mud; the whole structure underneath takes all the load and the towers for the rack bolt through the lid. Make your mounting points bombproof and you should be able to carry this cow up there. :cow: .
Airborne,
Yes, I think you would be fine with two average size people, tent system, gear, etc. You could always use some thicker walled stock to beef it up, but really the rack mounting points are the only part that takes the weight. The skin of the lid just keeps out the rain and mud; the whole structure underneath takes all the load and the towers for the rack bolt through the lid. Make your mounting points bombproof and you should be able to carry this cow up there. :cow: .