MB 1120 Coming to America! Purchase, Build and Now Travel!

[Pinnacle Campers]

Since this is our first 4WD truck and since we are not used to leaving improved dirt roads we are not used to recovery gear.

Just catching up, looking good.
You might consider a recovery class. Might change your perceptions of how to set up the truck for future recovery.

 

[VerMonsterRV]

Just catching up, looking good.
You might consider a recovery class. Might change your perceptions of how to set up the truck for future recovery.

Probably a good idea. Due to a limited budget and time the front mounted winch is on hold. I am sure we will make mistakes, just got to be careful not to make any that would hurt someone. I have applied for the overland east show in the diy build area. Have not heard back yet but we might attend some classes there, if there are ones we r interested in.

Small update, the solar panel mounts are off at the fabricator to have a 25mm radius bend put in them. He also is CNC plasma cutting the motorcycle lift arms and a few more parts for the lift and rear hitch plate. With any luck welding will start in a week.

 

[VerMonsterRV]

So, it looks like I finally found our second 50 gallon fuel tank and will be picking it up on Friday. Since metal work will hopefully be starting mid next week I might as well throw this into that project as I need to fabricate some spacers (like the front tank) out of some rectangular tube. Now the question I have. Once installed we will have 2 equal tanks. I need to somehow plumb the 2 tanks together. I am considering having a separate fuel filter for each tank (as a form of a installed spare). So, how would you guys go about plumbing this? Would you go for some sort of electric solenoid operated from the cab or manual valves? What about the fuel senders? If I go with the remote fuel solenoid I might be able to wire the same switch to the fuel gauge. Also, anyone know of an fuel sender that works with the MB original fuel gauge?

 

[luthj]

I would go with 2 senders. If you can find one, I would suggest a tank switchover solenoid/valve assembly These have 6 fittings. An engine in/out, and 2 for each tank. The unit switches the engine between the tanks seamlessly using a 12/24V switched input. You could even use a relay to switch the tank senders so a single dash gauge could be used.

The other option is a transfer pump. Usually these are around 1 gallon per minute, so not terribly fast.

 

[luthj]

I think f250/350s had a dual tank valve like this?

Amazon.com: 6 Port Fuel Tank Selector Valve For 87-16 Ford Diesels Replaces 6C3Z-9189-A : Automotive

Buy 6 Port Fuel Tank Selector Valve For 87-16 Ford Diesels Replaces 6C3Z-9189-A: Selector Valves - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[VerMonsterRV]

I think f250/350s had a dual tank valve like this?

Amazon.com: 6 Port Fuel Tank Selector Valve For 87-16 Ford Diesels Replaces 6C3Z-9189-A : Automotive

Buy 6 Port Fuel Tank Selector Valve For 87-16 Ford Diesels Replaces 6C3Z-9189-A: Selector Valves - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I think you are right. GM also has a similar one made by Pollack. I am guessing though I would need to use a step down converter from 24v to 12v with either of these. Not sure how durable these are as I have seen complaints about them on various forums. I have also stumbled onto this https://www.baileyhydraulics.com/SELECTOR-VALVE-SOLENOID-OPERATED which I think is originally for hydraulics. Not sure if it would work for diesel but I have an info request into the company that makes them. They can operate on 24v and, at least in pictures look better made. I have also found what looks to be the correct fuel senders from VDO. They operate in the right ohm range and look to be adjustable for the size of tank.

 

[luthj]

That unit may do the trick.

For solenoids running 12V on 24V systems, you just need to ohm out the coil inside the unit. This assumes there is no electronics inside. Then put a power resistor in series with the solenoids coil. Just select a resistor that can dissipate enough watts. Another option is a PWM regulator set to 50% duty cycle. Obviously not the most ideal setup.

I would guess any unit that handles hydraulic fluid would be fine with diesel. The seal materials are likely compatible, and the pressures will be much lower. Just confirm orifice sizes aren't too restrictive for your fuel system.

 

[dwh]

Modern Freightliners run dual tanks with a single gauge and no need to switch tanks. Don't ask me how, I haven't looked at it other than to drive the things.

 

[VerMonsterRV]

Modern Freightliners run dual tanks with a single gauge and no need to switch tanks. Don't ask me how, I haven't looked at it other than to drive the things.

Not sure but I have been told that the tanks are connected allowing fuel to flow between them. I asked the guy that we bought the first tank from (truck repair and wrecking yard) and that is what he told me. Pretty sure modern pickup trucks use the electric solenoid because they use in tank fuel pumps. The tank that we already have installed came of an M2 (I guess a medium duty local delivery truck) that only had a single tank on it, so no provision for fuel to flow to another tank. When we get our hands on the second one on Friday maybe that one will have it. I'll also ask those guys how Freightliner does it.

 

[Ozrockrat]

Most over the road trucks with dual tanks have them connected together and you pull from both at the same time. Helps balance things (100 gallons of diesel is 800lbs) and also stops the numb nuts who used to drive our trucks from running out of fuel when they forget to swap the tanks over.

On most of our dual auxiliary type tanks we ran transfer pumps. Not as good for redundancy but a lot easier to plumb and not as much chance of introducing air into the system.

If you go with a changeover solenoid I would suggest you have dual filter sets and the ability to isolate the filter packs/feeds for redundancy. It is important to make sure the fuel return goes back into the same tank as the fuel is being drawn from. This provides cross contamination protection and also stops you from overfilling one tank and having diesel flow everywhere including all over the vintage bikes in the trailer behind you. Or so they tell me .

Also make sure both tanks have filters /screens on the inlet/fill point. This stops the bigger lumps getting in and also limits the amount thieves can syphon out of the tanks. One of the hardest problems I had to find was the result of a bit of foil from a fuel additive bottle getting sucked up against the pickup pipe and the once the engine stopped running it would drop off and not get picked up again for some time. Always happened in the most inhospitable places in the middle of the night and took months to find (after chasing all the expensive solutions)

Also checkout something like ProFill out of Australia. They make filter socks for the fill hole that remove moisture and contaminants before they get in the tank. A must for when you are filling from 50 gallon drums etc or dodgy gas stations in other countries.

http://www.profill-australia.com

 

[VerMonsterRV]

Not sure I will do this but thought I would add to this thread a possible solution (and one that works for commercial trucks and seems to be simple). There is this thing called a "return flow splitter". Essentially it balances the fuel level in the tanks via the return line as you drive. FreightLiner calls it EquiFlo. Here is an article that explains it. Also stumbled on a Benz world thread with a guy that has done essentially what I am trying to do (but has run into issues). The return line splitter seems pretty simple and foolproof. Would lose a bit of flexibility but gain a lot in a way fewer connections and potential failure points.

 

[dwh]

Fine as long as the return flow remains equal. If not, one tank eventually overfills. Thus perhaps still the need to have the tanks connected so the overflow from one ends up in the other.

 

[Grenadiers]

We have a simple plan for filling our tank out in the boondocks if we need fuel from a barrel. Not that we’d want to ever be in that position. We have one 90 gallon tank, at 6 mpg usually can be prepared when the tank is low. I also have room for a plastic tank if needed. This is a 230 volt fuel pump, just plug it into an outlet outside near the fuel tank. No filter, but the Saurer has two fuel filters, and a separate water/fuel filter.

 

[VerMonsterRV]

Fine as long as the return flow remains equal. If not, one tank eventually overfills. Thus perhaps still the need to have the tanks connected so the overflow from one ends up in the other.

Still need to learn more, but I think the return flow splitter handles this by putting more fun into the tank that is lower. There is a bit of a valve in there to direct the flow. I need to talk to someone who really knows these things.

 

[Ozrockrat]

We have a simple plan for filling our tank out in the boondocks if we need fuel from a barrel. Not that we’d want to ever be in that position. We have one 90 gallon tank, at 6 mpg usually can be prepared when the tank is low. I also have room for a plastic tank if needed. This is a 230 volt fuel pump, just plug it into an outlet outside near the fuel tank. No filter, but the Saurer has two fuel filters, and a separate water/fuel filter.

Add one of these and you will be set.

https://www.racornews.com/single-post/2016/07/13/Did-You-Know-Racor-Has-Filters-in-a-Funnel

or

http://www.mrfunnel.com/Mr._Funnel/Home.html