mods you wouldnt do again ...

SHALAKO

New member
A magnaflow exhaust (which the guy at the shop said would sound awesome and add hp and trq), it sounded like a rice burner and I switched it back to stock the next day at a different shop at a cost of prob around 4 or 5 hundred total.
 

NorthernWoodsman

Adventurer/tinkerer
A magnaflow exhaust (which the guy at the shop said would sound awesome and add hp and trq), it sounded like a rice burner and I switched it back to stock the next day at a different shop at a cost of prob around 4 or 5 hundred total.

That's weird. I had a Magnaflow exhaust installed as well and my truck sounds nice. It's very quiet with just a tiny, noticeable rumble to the exhaust tone. Very quiet on trips too.
 

irish_11

Explorer
That's weird. I had a Magnaflow exhaust installed as well and my truck sounds nice. It's very quiet with just a tiny, noticeable rumble to the exhaust tone. Very quiet on trips too.

x2, but I guess it all depends on what you were mounting it on and what exhaust you went with. I like mine, its noticeable at higher RPM's but nice on the highway.
 

Regcabguy

Oil eater.
A magnaflow exhaust (which the guy at the shop said would sound awesome and add hp and trq), it sounded like a rice burner and I switched it back to stock the next day at a different shop at a cost of prob around 4 or 5 hundred total.
X2. Helped a buddy install a 5" magnaflow turboback stainless steel exhaust on his '05 CTD. Sounded like crap and droned him to death. He ended up reinstalling his cat and going with a Shuttleworth HD diesel muffler. NICE!

He also installed an AIRRAID CAI which did nothing performance wise. He's returned to a stock airbox with the new 4" deep stock element.
 

brussum

Adventurer
Hmm, lets see. Spanning SUV's, sport compacts, and diesel pickups here goes (not all will apply here):

Intakes- Ive tried drop in, CAI, short ram, made from plastic, made from metal, several types of cone filters. None did much from what I could tell.

Exhaust- Loud exhaust gets tiring if you drive for very long. Sure, the 5" sewer pipe on my CTD sounded great when driving around town. Not so much driving 2, 3, 5, 10, 14 hours.

T-Bar re-index/general lift- too much wear for too little gain

Body Lift- Hate the gaps, no good way to relocate most bumpers.

Building armor- I built a complete set of sliders, and bumpers for a 91 Pathfinder. Hell for stout but way too time consuming. IF I ever armor up my X, ill buy rather than build.

Stereo systems/ Subs- Spent more money than I care to upgrading HU's, speakers, amps, and subs. Im happy with stock now.

I guess you could say that im pretty well finished with most "mods". And as luck would have it you eventually find yourself dumping tons of time, effort, and money into a vehicle that's on the fritz anyways. Then you end up losing out not only the value of the vehicle but all the parts you installed. Case in point, my old dodge. Purchased for $7000, spend $400 on new alternator 2 weeks after buying (used), spent $210 on lift pumps, spent $1500 on new injection pump, spent $3500 on a full transmission rebuild/build up. Then spent $500 on a programmer, $200 on an extra set of wheels, $400 on exhaust, $200 on aux lights. I spent more in parts + accessories than I did for the purchase price. Not counting basic maintainance and including the cost of the vehicle itself I put ~$14000 into the truck. Know what I got for it at the dealership? $1,000.

Oh, and dont mod your DD!

That post is priceless. Been there, done that...and I've felt that sting at trade-in time. Ouch!
 

keezer37

Explorer
-K&N CAI for sale. Like new!
I tried to like it. Actually sounded pretty cool at open throttle. In hot weather, traffic, it was a dog.

-Magnaflow (JBA catback) Spare. I'll use it if and when I have to. I still think about buying their headers from time to time. Will I never learn?
I grew up listening to V8 American muscle. I think the issue is the way catbacks sound when there are catalytic converters.



I got a lot of cool stickers though!
 

1stDeuce

Explorer
I just found this thread and read a bunch of it during lunch. Lots of good info! I'll add a few bad decisions I've learned through my own experience, or that of my friends...
(Edited to shorten it... I got carried away.)

Electric Fans. They Suck. Period. It takes just as much HP to turn that alternator to drive your electric fan as it does to turn the mechanical fan. Nothing is free, people. And whenever the fan isn't running, and you're not moving much, the underhood temps go sky-high, which causes all sorts of things to eat it. (Alternators, computers, vapor lock, brake booster even...)

Snorkel. If you're in water over the hood, you should either do a better job of checking water depth, or SLOW DOWN. My TJ has been in water just over the top of the front fenders (~36") without issue, and about the top of my 33's lots of times. Never even been able to find water in the factory airbox... YMMV depending on vehicle of course.

Lifts bigger than about 2". Shaky business, but I have yet to meet a lift kit over about 2" that was worth the tradeoffs. My TJ is 1.5" to 2" over stock, via a combination of OEM (not OME) Jeep springs and factory isolators, and I'm running stock length shocks with a few spacers there as well to get proper droop travel. It flexes like a slinky, rides and drives like it's stock, and there's no squeaking bushings, welded arms, cheap bolts, or powdercoating anywhere, and the front/rear spring rates are spot on. It just works, because that's how it was designed, by people with actual engineering degrees who could take into account things like overstreer/understeer, ride rate and frequency splits, and overall long term durability.

Heavy stuff. Anything that adds weight to a vehicle that you're trying to take offroad must be considered carefully. Adding significant amounts of weight puts undue stress on components, and causes lots of things to start going wrong. This is one of the main reasons that older Toyotas were so "strong". They were light enough that it was hard to break them with their own weight.

Dual Batteries. Ok, there is a place for them... If you run battery intense loads while camping, they're a great idea so you can burn one down, and still start the truck. Or if you're plowing snow with a 63 amp alternator... But if you have a modern vehicle with a 100A or likely higher alternator, one battery is plenty. I can melt the wiring to the motor on my winch before drawing my normal Group27 battery down. While the winch cools, the battery charges. You're just adding weight and maintenance issues with dual batteries.

Winches that don't have a "W" on the front. Been there. Done that. If it doesn't say Warn, it has let me or someone I know down.

Beadlocks. I don't know what people are doing that necessitates beadlocks on anything short of a desert racer or all out rock buggy, but I commonly run 10-15 psi on the trails, and I have NEVER had a bead come off. I run 4.5psi in the sand, and haven't lost a bead there either.

Ok, enough from me. Of course all this is from my experience, so if you've got an exception, that's fine. But I knows what I knows, and just though I'd share too. :)
Chris
 
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Lostmanifesto

Traveler
Being over prepared. Being prepared is smart, over prepared is cumbersome. Plus, I think it takes the "adventure" out of what we all love if you bring every single creature comfort from home with you. If you camp with a dining room table and chairs and a chandelier how do you call that camping? :)
 

Quill

Adventurer
Big lifts. Had a Ranger with 5" that sucked gas and I had to climb in and bail out. In the snow you lift one foot in the cab and the other slides under the vehicle. Painful and embarrassing. Complicated modifications of any sort.
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Aftermarket accessories that use SAE/inch hardware! It is a real pain to have to take a set of SAE tools just to work on your compressor or to adjust your driving lights. Are any cars still made with SAE? It is time to go all metric (actually it was time 20 years ago, but that is a different rant!).

A very GOOD set of 12 point combo wrenches like Snap-Ons will only require Metric for most regular male bolts. For female allen bolt heads, usually using SAE wrenches or sockets will work better, the exact opposite.

I keep both on hand. But for regular bolts, I grab metric combos first, tighter fit. Oddly, I avoid sockets and try to use combo wrenches and gear wrenches as often as possible.

Keep in mind that the tolerances on cheap chinese wrenches can be "a bit off" sometimes.
 

dieselfuel

Adventurer
Body lift on a suburban. The body is too heavy to give it that much leverage on the frame mounts. That and if the 14 body mounts on a 73-91 suburban, only 10 have bolts through them. So as soon as you go off road, 4 of them fall out.
 

kmacafee

Adventurer
Mods you would definitely do again

Greetings

I searched but could not find a close match.

Has anyone started a thread about mods that you have done that have worked well -- and you would consider doing again? If not, I would be happy to start one.

Cheers

Kevin
 

mustangwarrior

Adventurer
spending money on a custom exhaust, don't get me wrong, i love the sound of my flowmaster but the $150 i spent to have custom tailpipes bent was a complete waste

i do have a k&n CAI but to make it work properly i need to make a fully enclosed airbox for it
 

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