Redline
Likes to Drive and Ride
Like that one very much. I've never heard ASAP explained so clearly, I'm struggling with ASAP right now with a new truck. Thanks for the encouragement 
mods you wouldnt do again ...
- Thread starter jeffryscott
- Start date
bfdiesel
Explorer
Anytime I didn't do it right the first time, rigging it to work is for out on the trail to get home not to go out on the trail from home. Using locks on everything and then leaving the keys at home. Using my only vehicle as a trail rig, now I have a ASAP trail rig and a ASAP vehicle for everything else. I regret selling my 87 ford F350 it was the most reliable vehicle i had ever owned for running through the woods. Hopefully the suburban can take that spot.
Buying cheap tires.
The biggest regret is any time I have settled or compromised and didn't do exactly what I wanted especially because I didn't want to wait and save up time and money to get it just right.
Buying cheap tires.
The biggest regret is any time I have settled or compromised and didn't do exactly what I wanted especially because I didn't want to wait and save up time and money to get it just right.
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FellowTraveler
Explorer
Will not ever again use a K&N filter w/o pre-filter, or fine weave panty hose as pre-filter.
Change gear ratio for more mpg's w/o doing more research into ill effects that can crop up.
Use dual post batteries because I've never had one that didn't leak after a few months, accessory blocks now.
Go with black mat finish on bodywork in the tropics or sub-tropics.
Change gear ratio for more mpg's w/o doing more research into ill effects that can crop up.
Use dual post batteries because I've never had one that didn't leak after a few months, accessory blocks now.
Go with black mat finish on bodywork in the tropics or sub-tropics.
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Antichrist
Expedition Leader
I don't really consider it a mod, but I'll never use one of these plastic sockets on an off-road vehicle again.
After breaking two of them I've switched to metal Cole Hersee
With a rubber boot on the back to protect the connections.
After breaking two of them I've switched to metal Cole Hersee
With a rubber boot on the back to protect the connections.
X-plorenow
Adventurer
Tom,
What do you use those sockets for?
Mike
What do you use those sockets for?
Mike
Antichrist
Expedition Leader
I have a flatbed trailer I tow.
BorntoVenture
Adventurer
Mods I regret and will never do again:
1) I'll never buy anything with the Rancho name on it. Terrible lift kits, horrible shocks, and non-existent tech support which was much needed since their parts don't fit.
2) Pro-Comp lifts. In the early 90's they were the only lift to have if you wanted real flex but now they are just the opposite.
3) K&N or any oiled air filter. One reason for the dust being trapped but my main reason for not running them now is that they take hours to clean (drying time). I'd rather use disposable filters since I'm carrying a spare anyway.
4) KC brand products. I can't speak of their HID products but their 50-150 watt lights are junk. They claim to be sealed but take on water and aren't near as bright as other brands in the same price range.
5) China..... Bought a few items such as switches and an LCD voltage display from China and I got what I paid for, junk.
6) Not planning things fully before cutting. Sometimes this can't be helped but other times I've gotten so mad at myself because I would start a project then remember other details about it, which of course causes the time spent and materials used so far a total waste.
I really have to think about modifications when Overland Travel is the goal because I come from a background of fully building and customizing vehicles. From drag racing, mud racing, hill climbing, and ATV racing I've spent most of my time figuring out how to squeeze every foot-pound and horse power out of these vehicles, now I have to look for the most reliable solution instead.
1) I'll never buy anything with the Rancho name on it. Terrible lift kits, horrible shocks, and non-existent tech support which was much needed since their parts don't fit.
2) Pro-Comp lifts. In the early 90's they were the only lift to have if you wanted real flex but now they are just the opposite.
3) K&N or any oiled air filter. One reason for the dust being trapped but my main reason for not running them now is that they take hours to clean (drying time). I'd rather use disposable filters since I'm carrying a spare anyway.
4) KC brand products. I can't speak of their HID products but their 50-150 watt lights are junk. They claim to be sealed but take on water and aren't near as bright as other brands in the same price range.
5) China..... Bought a few items such as switches and an LCD voltage display from China and I got what I paid for, junk.
6) Not planning things fully before cutting. Sometimes this can't be helped but other times I've gotten so mad at myself because I would start a project then remember other details about it, which of course causes the time spent and materials used so far a total waste.
I really have to think about modifications when Overland Travel is the goal because I come from a background of fully building and customizing vehicles. From drag racing, mud racing, hill climbing, and ATV racing I've spent most of my time figuring out how to squeeze every foot-pound and horse power out of these vehicles, now I have to look for the most reliable solution instead.
Buliwyf
Viking with a Hammer
[Note: The below opinion is about Expo style fullsize trucks meant for long drives, towing, and some offroad/trail use. Not Jeeps or hardcore offroad toys. I have a trailer for those.]
Any Locker other than Detroit or OX. My opinion differs than most, because I'm reffering to a heavy 1ton fullsize trucks with slushy auto transmissions. I like a Detroit in the rear and OX selectable or open in the front. Big trucks handle excellent IME with a full case auto Detroit Softlocker. As long as you have weight, good tires not slippery (in the snow) Mud Terrain tires, and a wheelbase no shorter than a regular cab long bed. I also like how a Detroit can turn and ratchet when needed while still maintaining a good drive forward. I've had trouble turning tight with a selectable locked rear. I want to be locked, but I want to turn as well. Locking and unlocking a selectable gets old fast, where the Detroit just tugs along smoothly offroad for me.
I never use an auto locker up front. I understeer in snow if I do. While I could just use 2wd in the snow.........I prefere to use 4wd when ever the pavement isn't visable. And that makes a huge difference when you consider that I have an auto locker in the rear. The front drive keeps everything straight as long as I drive responsibly. I like the reliability of OX's products. And I allways run tires that have good siping in the winter with lockers (BFG AT, Cooper M&S, Goodyear Silent Armor or Duratrak) I like the Detroits handling onroad. Great if there is sand/gravel on road and if I'm setup right, it's easy to drive. I haven't noticed much bad when towing either.
Obviously a Detroit in a little lightweight small Jeep is a bad idea.
Mud Terrain Tires Great on my Jeep. But on my trucks i can do fine withmore well rounded tires like BFG AT, Cooper M&S, Goodyear Silent Armor or Duratrak. If I'm way out where I don't belong and things are getting too muddy for my tires, or it rains unexpectedly when I'm out in the sticks......I just put a set of mud rated snow chains on. Way more bite than any MT tire I've driven. But not allowed at State Park or Private offroad parks. They'll dig ruts in the trail. I save them only for times where I screwed up and just want to get going, not for play time.
Ham radios or expensive CB's What an expensive pile of broken junk. I had an excellent Galaxy tuned to run on CB. Best radio I've ever used. Crystal clear and powerful. But the bands and channels would change positions, and some channels would also start overlapping. 13, 18, 19 were the same channel. Just too much money into radios over the years. Not to mention the few Wilson 1000's that majikly snapped off.
Now I'll just stick to plain old simple President Lincoln or General Lee radios and a 108" whip mounted to the bed.
Cheap tires
Cheap lift Kits I only run BDS now.
Expensive Shocks I just run BDS and Rubicon Express shocks now. I like their shock valving, same as thier expensive shocks, I just don't expect them to last as long as thier more expensive shocks. But from time to time I dent a shock or hurt them on a hard hit, so I avoid super exotic shocks.
Aftermarket bumpers Way overkill for me. Too heavy, and very expensive. That's money I can use elsewhere to mutch greater effect. I have a ton of small dings in my bumpers, but never really folded one up. I just swap the bumpers out, eventually its really easy to find bumpers for old trucks at scrap yards.
Winches Excellent for off road toys like my Jeep YJ. But all I need is chain, a highlift jack, and a shovel. It takes longer to dig, but it allways works. Winches don't like snow/salt/me that much anyways.
Can't really get a 1ton truck unstuck without jacking it up and digging even with a winch anyways. At least not without a ton of force which makes me a bit nervous. I'd rather not pull on any cable with 15,000 pounds of force if I can avoid it. I've only got two arms left and would like to avoid haveing one sliced off by a broken winch cable. Not too mention that a winch is a ton of weight on an allready heavy vehicle.
Roof racks and baskets The pupose built 4x4 racks are way too expensive for what they provide. Better off making my own. The basket is expensive and nearly useless, everything up there gets bolted down anyways. I find it better to get a steel ladder rack and chop and weld my own braces and beams in to fit a pair of tire mounts, , shovel, jack, axe, and a (empty) Pelican case or two. One for my chainsaw, other for recovery gear. All my camping gear goes into soft packs that can be stuffed anywhere anyways. My bags are all lined with HD garbage compactor bags or trash bags anyways if it rains. I do like to keep everything mounted to the insides of my bed or on a rack. I like haveing as much room on the bed floor as possible.
I have to chop roof racks up anyways. I like to have removable top bars so I can walk/ride motorcycles into my truck. That means I haved to strengthen the sides and front of the racks. But I've seen many drivers start a custom build with something simple like this:
http://www.discountramps.com/surefit-universal-truck-rack.htm
Any axle gear ratio less than 4.30 People have been offroading succesfully, crossing continents like Africa, Antartica, US, and Asia with a whole lot less power than 300hp 400tq for many years. Yet so many people complain about a GMC 6.0's, Ford 5.4's, or 6.8's power output? Don't fear the gear. I have never lost much mileage with gears. At least not compared to heavy tires and non-aero lifts.
I like 4.30's for stock truck tires, 4.56 for 33" and 4.88 for 35-38" tires. Totally wakes a truck up.
Any tire larger than 35" That's the line for me between useable and practical, vs. offroad rig. I can get alot done with that size, without loseing too much drivability. And it's $$$ to go bigger anyways.
Any lift over 4" I'd rather stay low and chop the fenders as needed for larger tires. A 4" lift on a fullsize truck isn't exactly low anyways.
Carpet and leather Seriously? What was I thinking. Rubber floors with drains for me!
Aftermarket wheels Stock or cheap steel wheels an inch wider are all I need. And look good in black.
Seat covers, even good ones Just money wasted that I could have spent on new seats that really freshen up an old truck. If I'm mudding/camping I'll throw a bedsheet over the seats.
Engine mods 2003+ trucks are plenty powerful.
Aftermarket ignition products/computers allways less reliable than factory parts. Used to eat Autozone ignition modules and MSD coils after I replaced my failed factory components. Nothing but trouble. Now I run factory parts and have seen a ton better reliability.
Factory stock brakes Warp city, cheap steel. Napa has thicker rotors that work best for me.
Dual battery controllers Junk that'll just fail and connect my main engine battery to my aux battery while I fall asleep at camp with my goofy tent lights and radio running.
I use a Deepcycle group 31 in the bed. And I connect it to the main battery in parallel with a starter relay on a switch in the cab. When I park the truck I switch off the relay isolating the battery in my bed from the truck. All my accesories, CB, laptop, AC/DC inverter are on the aux battery. When I hit the road, once I make it to the freeway I switch on the relay connecting the aux battery and letting it charge off the engine alternator. No fancy gauges, nothing. For long trips I'll put in two 31's or a 8d battery if there is room.
Todays electronics have a ton of parasitic load. My laptop for my Delorme software loves to boot itsself up in the middle of the night. Making my ride glow like it's been invaded by aliens. I only drive my personal cars on weekends. Having everything on that isolated battery keeps my trucks wiring close to stock once I flip that switch for the relay off. I can isolate the Aux battery for cleaner power to my CB as well.
Electric coolers Haven't found one that works better than Ice from a gas station. Have to fuel up every 500 miles anyways.....
Any Locker other than Detroit or OX. My opinion differs than most, because I'm reffering to a heavy 1ton fullsize trucks with slushy auto transmissions. I like a Detroit in the rear and OX selectable or open in the front. Big trucks handle excellent IME with a full case auto Detroit Softlocker. As long as you have weight, good tires not slippery (in the snow) Mud Terrain tires, and a wheelbase no shorter than a regular cab long bed. I also like how a Detroit can turn and ratchet when needed while still maintaining a good drive forward. I've had trouble turning tight with a selectable locked rear. I want to be locked, but I want to turn as well. Locking and unlocking a selectable gets old fast, where the Detroit just tugs along smoothly offroad for me.
I never use an auto locker up front. I understeer in snow if I do. While I could just use 2wd in the snow.........I prefere to use 4wd when ever the pavement isn't visable. And that makes a huge difference when you consider that I have an auto locker in the rear. The front drive keeps everything straight as long as I drive responsibly. I like the reliability of OX's products. And I allways run tires that have good siping in the winter with lockers (BFG AT, Cooper M&S, Goodyear Silent Armor or Duratrak) I like the Detroits handling onroad. Great if there is sand/gravel on road and if I'm setup right, it's easy to drive. I haven't noticed much bad when towing either.
Obviously a Detroit in a little lightweight small Jeep is a bad idea.
Mud Terrain Tires Great on my Jeep. But on my trucks i can do fine withmore well rounded tires like BFG AT, Cooper M&S, Goodyear Silent Armor or Duratrak. If I'm way out where I don't belong and things are getting too muddy for my tires, or it rains unexpectedly when I'm out in the sticks......I just put a set of mud rated snow chains on. Way more bite than any MT tire I've driven. But not allowed at State Park or Private offroad parks. They'll dig ruts in the trail. I save them only for times where I screwed up and just want to get going, not for play time.
Ham radios or expensive CB's What an expensive pile of broken junk. I had an excellent Galaxy tuned to run on CB. Best radio I've ever used. Crystal clear and powerful. But the bands and channels would change positions, and some channels would also start overlapping. 13, 18, 19 were the same channel. Just too much money into radios over the years. Not to mention the few Wilson 1000's that majikly snapped off.
Now I'll just stick to plain old simple President Lincoln or General Lee radios and a 108" whip mounted to the bed.
Cheap tires
Cheap lift Kits I only run BDS now.
Expensive Shocks I just run BDS and Rubicon Express shocks now. I like their shock valving, same as thier expensive shocks, I just don't expect them to last as long as thier more expensive shocks. But from time to time I dent a shock or hurt them on a hard hit, so I avoid super exotic shocks.
Aftermarket bumpers Way overkill for me. Too heavy, and very expensive. That's money I can use elsewhere to mutch greater effect. I have a ton of small dings in my bumpers, but never really folded one up. I just swap the bumpers out, eventually its really easy to find bumpers for old trucks at scrap yards.
Winches Excellent for off road toys like my Jeep YJ. But all I need is chain, a highlift jack, and a shovel. It takes longer to dig, but it allways works. Winches don't like snow/salt/me that much anyways.
Can't really get a 1ton truck unstuck without jacking it up and digging even with a winch anyways. At least not without a ton of force which makes me a bit nervous. I'd rather not pull on any cable with 15,000 pounds of force if I can avoid it. I've only got two arms left and would like to avoid haveing one sliced off by a broken winch cable. Not too mention that a winch is a ton of weight on an allready heavy vehicle.
Roof racks and baskets The pupose built 4x4 racks are way too expensive for what they provide. Better off making my own. The basket is expensive and nearly useless, everything up there gets bolted down anyways. I find it better to get a steel ladder rack and chop and weld my own braces and beams in to fit a pair of tire mounts, , shovel, jack, axe, and a (empty) Pelican case or two. One for my chainsaw, other for recovery gear. All my camping gear goes into soft packs that can be stuffed anywhere anyways. My bags are all lined with HD garbage compactor bags or trash bags anyways if it rains. I do like to keep everything mounted to the insides of my bed or on a rack. I like haveing as much room on the bed floor as possible.
I have to chop roof racks up anyways. I like to have removable top bars so I can walk/ride motorcycles into my truck. That means I haved to strengthen the sides and front of the racks. But I've seen many drivers start a custom build with something simple like this:
http://www.discountramps.com/surefit-universal-truck-rack.htm
Any axle gear ratio less than 4.30 People have been offroading succesfully, crossing continents like Africa, Antartica, US, and Asia with a whole lot less power than 300hp 400tq for many years. Yet so many people complain about a GMC 6.0's, Ford 5.4's, or 6.8's power output? Don't fear the gear. I have never lost much mileage with gears. At least not compared to heavy tires and non-aero lifts.
I like 4.30's for stock truck tires, 4.56 for 33" and 4.88 for 35-38" tires. Totally wakes a truck up.
Any tire larger than 35" That's the line for me between useable and practical, vs. offroad rig. I can get alot done with that size, without loseing too much drivability. And it's $$$ to go bigger anyways.
Any lift over 4" I'd rather stay low and chop the fenders as needed for larger tires. A 4" lift on a fullsize truck isn't exactly low anyways.
Carpet and leather Seriously? What was I thinking. Rubber floors with drains for me!
Aftermarket wheels Stock or cheap steel wheels an inch wider are all I need. And look good in black.
Seat covers, even good ones Just money wasted that I could have spent on new seats that really freshen up an old truck. If I'm mudding/camping I'll throw a bedsheet over the seats.
Engine mods 2003+ trucks are plenty powerful.
Aftermarket ignition products/computers allways less reliable than factory parts. Used to eat Autozone ignition modules and MSD coils after I replaced my failed factory components. Nothing but trouble. Now I run factory parts and have seen a ton better reliability.
Factory stock brakes Warp city, cheap steel. Napa has thicker rotors that work best for me.
Dual battery controllers Junk that'll just fail and connect my main engine battery to my aux battery while I fall asleep at camp with my goofy tent lights and radio running.
I use a Deepcycle group 31 in the bed. And I connect it to the main battery in parallel with a starter relay on a switch in the cab. When I park the truck I switch off the relay isolating the battery in my bed from the truck. All my accesories, CB, laptop, AC/DC inverter are on the aux battery. When I hit the road, once I make it to the freeway I switch on the relay connecting the aux battery and letting it charge off the engine alternator. No fancy gauges, nothing. For long trips I'll put in two 31's or a 8d battery if there is room.
Todays electronics have a ton of parasitic load. My laptop for my Delorme software loves to boot itsself up in the middle of the night. Making my ride glow like it's been invaded by aliens. I only drive my personal cars on weekends. Having everything on that isolated battery keeps my trucks wiring close to stock once I flip that switch for the relay off. I can isolate the Aux battery for cleaner power to my CB as well.
Electric coolers Haven't found one that works better than Ice from a gas station. Have to fuel up every 500 miles anyways.....
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x32792
Adventurer
At a recent Jeep club meeting, a 30 year member with a $50,000, fully farkled TJ Rubicon admitted to me he wished he had a stock TJ.
EDIT:
In regard to modifications I would do again, I bought this man's Rubicon springs...the ones he had taken off the same day he bought his brand new 2006 Rubicon...The springs which had been resting in his garage since 2006 and installed them along with Rancho Shocks and Rancho stabilizer on my bone stock 2001 TJ Wrangler Sport running 30" radial A/T tires. This tightened up my ride, improved handling and gave me a whopping 3/4" budget lift without changing my steering geometry...
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FellowTraveler
Explorer
K&n
I have a Douglas canister and a K&N cylinder type filter, I tried to stay w/stock filter but because of flow restriction from it volumetric efficiency (VE) suffered so I settled on the K&N w/pre-filter and because of oiled filter cleanup issues I carry a spare K&N too.
Ever go through or get caught up in a dust storm you learn just how important a pre-filter is, or even a cabin filter, I don't have a cabin filter but consider it a must do project in the near future.
Stock filter is good on a stock motor but as soon as the intake and exhaust path are increased to increase volumetric efficiency (VE) the stock filter chokes the flow.
We all know, increasing volumetric efficiency (VE) on any motor is a good thing resulting in more power/torque and mpg's when driven easy.
I have a Douglas canister and a K&N cylinder type filter, I tried to stay w/stock filter but because of flow restriction from it volumetric efficiency (VE) suffered so I settled on the K&N w/pre-filter and because of oiled filter cleanup issues I carry a spare K&N too.
Ever go through or get caught up in a dust storm you learn just how important a pre-filter is, or even a cabin filter, I don't have a cabin filter but consider it a must do project in the near future.
Stock filter is good on a stock motor but as soon as the intake and exhaust path are increased to increase volumetric efficiency (VE) the stock filter chokes the flow.
We all know, increasing volumetric efficiency (VE) on any motor is a good thing resulting in more power/torque and mpg's when driven easy.
Schattenjager
Expedition Leader
X10 on never buying cheap parts again. Buy the best - whine only once.
mr250twostroke
New member
A snorkel... if Rainier ever blows its top I'm doomed regardless. I dont think my Suburban EVER saw a time it was needed. Glad to have that tree snagger gone.
Hmm, lets see. Spanning SUV's, sport compacts, and diesel pickups here goes (not all will apply here):
Intakes- Ive tried drop in, CAI, short ram, made from plastic, made from metal, several types of cone filters. None did much from what I could tell.
Exhaust- Loud exhaust gets tiring if you drive for very long. Sure, the 5" sewer pipe on my CTD sounded great when driving around town. Not so much driving 2, 3, 5, 10, 14 hours.
T-Bar re-index/general lift- too much wear for too little gain
Body Lift- Hate the gaps, no good way to relocate most bumpers.
Building armor- I built a complete set of sliders, and bumpers for a 91 Pathfinder. Hell for stout but way too time consuming. IF I ever armor up my X, ill buy rather than build.
Stereo systems/ Subs- Spent more money than I care to upgrading HU's, speakers, amps, and subs. Im happy with stock now.
I guess you could say that im pretty well finished with most "mods". And as luck would have it you eventually find yourself dumping tons of time, effort, and money into a vehicle that's on the fritz anyways. Then you end up losing out not only the value of the vehicle but all the parts you installed. Case in point, my old dodge. Purchased for $7000, spend $400 on new alternator 2 weeks after buying (used), spent $210 on lift pumps, spent $1500 on new injection pump, spent $3500 on a full transmission rebuild/build up. Then spent $500 on a programmer, $200 on an extra set of wheels, $400 on exhaust, $200 on aux lights. I spent more in parts + accessories than I did for the purchase price. Not counting basic maintainance and including the cost of the vehicle itself I put ~$14000 into the truck. Know what I got for it at the dealership? $1,000.
Oh, and dont mod your DD!
Intakes- Ive tried drop in, CAI, short ram, made from plastic, made from metal, several types of cone filters. None did much from what I could tell.
Exhaust- Loud exhaust gets tiring if you drive for very long. Sure, the 5" sewer pipe on my CTD sounded great when driving around town. Not so much driving 2, 3, 5, 10, 14 hours.
T-Bar re-index/general lift- too much wear for too little gain
Body Lift- Hate the gaps, no good way to relocate most bumpers.
Building armor- I built a complete set of sliders, and bumpers for a 91 Pathfinder. Hell for stout but way too time consuming. IF I ever armor up my X, ill buy rather than build.
Stereo systems/ Subs- Spent more money than I care to upgrading HU's, speakers, amps, and subs. Im happy with stock now.
I guess you could say that im pretty well finished with most "mods". And as luck would have it you eventually find yourself dumping tons of time, effort, and money into a vehicle that's on the fritz anyways. Then you end up losing out not only the value of the vehicle but all the parts you installed. Case in point, my old dodge. Purchased for $7000, spend $400 on new alternator 2 weeks after buying (used), spent $210 on lift pumps, spent $1500 on new injection pump, spent $3500 on a full transmission rebuild/build up. Then spent $500 on a programmer, $200 on an extra set of wheels, $400 on exhaust, $200 on aux lights. I spent more in parts + accessories than I did for the purchase price. Not counting basic maintainance and including the cost of the vehicle itself I put ~$14000 into the truck. Know what I got for it at the dealership? $1,000.
Oh, and dont mod your DD!
Power Wagon Okie
Explorer
As a massive number of people have stated, this thread is priceless!
Lots of re-planning coming on my part! Thank God I didn't pull the trigger on much for now.
Lots of re-planning coming on my part! Thank God I didn't pull the trigger on much for now.