ratkin
Adventurer
As these Suburbans have rain gutters over the doors, you can use the Surco Gutter Mount Adapters. For the rear, these Thule #542 Artificial Raingutter Brackets would work really well. I used a set on my '87.
- Richard
More Suburban work
- Thread starter ccarley
- Start date
As these Suburbans have rain gutters over the doors, you can use the Surco Gutter Mount Adapters. For the rear, these Thule #542 Artificial Raingutter Brackets would work really well. I used a set on my '87.
- Richard
ccarley
Adventurer
rparker762
Observer
I'd like to comment on the 10 bolt strength comment. I have an 84 K5 Blazer with 10 bolts front and rear and run 35" MT/Rs. Never had a problem and I used to be hard on it. Unless you are tearing it up or wheeling it hard, they will hold up just fine. Several people I know will tell you the same. If you want more strength, upgrade the shafts and you'll be good to go. But, your 'burb looks good:wings:
strider3700
Adventurer
Thats what those things are! THanks, A used canopy I picked up has these on them and I couldn't figure out what they were for.
Mamontof
Explorer
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
I will say they hold up to some pretty serious abuse: Turbid Necromancer
Those are 10 bolts being abused. We did trash a set of front u-joints hitting traction on the launch after the third year. Easy fix and we were still in the money.
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
My bias against the semi-float GM axles stems from the C-Clip axle retention. Although somewhat sucky, I don't even terribly mind the C-Clip design itself. It is the wheel bearing design that I consider to be an abortion. Using the axle shaft as the inner bearing surface is just poor, economics driven judgment. Their strength, where appropriately placed (i.e. no 10 rears in a full size), is fine. A 12 bolt rear with C-Clip Eliminators would be a great 1/2 ton solution.
ccarley
Adventurer
Update! Today, I installed a set of Pro-Comp Explorer rear springs.
The ride is much nicer, however the front is still funky. So, next on the list is to fab up some swaybar swing links, and if it's still funky, order up some different Bilsteins. I saw something on dbreid's site about F250 Bilsteins instead of the version that Bilstein recommends. Looks like a better setup anyway...
Still considering a rear axle upgrade... I think either the shafts or bearings are worn; there is some noise from time to time, however I didn't bother to check for play while I had it up in the air today. Next time, perhaps when I have more energy!
Clay
The ride is much nicer, however the front is still funky. So, next on the list is to fab up some swaybar swing links, and if it's still funky, order up some different Bilsteins. I saw something on dbreid's site about F250 Bilsteins instead of the version that Bilstein recommends. Looks like a better setup anyway...
Still considering a rear axle upgrade... I think either the shafts or bearings are worn; there is some noise from time to time, however I didn't bother to check for play while I had it up in the air today. Next time, perhaps when I have more energy!
Clay
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ccarley
Adventurer
Stoney,
Thanks for the kind words. At the moment, it does. I don't mind it right now, since when loaded with gear it should level out. Also, the front springs are of unknown age, so with the new rears I kind of expected the high rear stance.
Sure looks better than when it was super saggin'; I think I got 3" of lift from new springs, versus the old stockers with a 4" block.
By the way, if anyone is looking to replace the rear springs on their Suburban, make sure you measure them first! Everything I read listed 52" rear springs for a 1/2 ton, however my springs are 56"! Sure glad I measured first!
Clay
xpndbl3
Adventurer
Don't have any valves anymore since I deleted all that stuff. They wanted over $200 from LMC truck for that diverter valve, I just ran "T" fittings off the heater hoses instead. There is plenty of coolant flow, just doesn't stay warm all the way to the back is my guess. Ran probably 35 feet of heater hose from under the hood all the way to the rear of the truck.
ccarley
Adventurer
Update:
I thought I was going to fab up some swaybar swing links myself, however I haven't had time. Still working 12 hour days...
So I ordered a set of the swing link/ disconnects from Off Road Design. They should be here Friday, and then this weekend I'll have them installed. Sunday I'm planning on heading to the rifle range at Cow Mountain, so we'll see how well they work.
Clay
I thought I was going to fab up some swaybar swing links myself, however I haven't had time. Still working 12 hour days...
So I ordered a set of the swing link/ disconnects from Off Road Design. They should be here Friday, and then this weekend I'll have them installed. Sunday I'm planning on heading to the rifle range at Cow Mountain, so we'll see how well they work.
Clay
ccarley
Adventurer
What an easy job! I installed these yesterday morning:
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/swaybarkit.htm
The ride is much, much improved. I still think I'll go with longer front shocks in the upright position later on, but the difference in ride is night & day.
Heading to Cow Mountain in Ukiah, CA today for some target practice. I'm looking forward to see how it handles the fire roads now; no more swaying left to right when I hit a bump on the street, so hopefully it will be nice & stable off road as well.
Pictures to come!
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/swaybarkit.htm
The ride is much, much improved. I still think I'll go with longer front shocks in the upright position later on, but the difference in ride is night & day.
Heading to Cow Mountain in Ukiah, CA today for some target practice. I'm looking forward to see how it handles the fire roads now; no more swaying left to right when I hit a bump on the street, so hopefully it will be nice & stable off road as well.
Pictures to come!