MT Swap into a 92+ E350 7.3?

[RocKrawler]

Got this reply:

For the pedal assembly, I modified one from a 1984-1989 Manual transmission van... Mines a 1996, 1997, Ford changed it. I am planning to make a new assembly since I never really cared for it. Possibly an aftermarket assembly like wilwood can be made to work. As for transmission, get a ZF 5 speed from either a pickup or F450. The ZF is taller than the E4OD you're replacing, so it may be required to angle the engine downward.

So it can be done, but not as bolt in easy as I had hoped for. If I decide to do it, I'll document it here but have to start pricing everything to see if its in the budget!

 

[stevesolinko]

I will most likely be doing this swap. I toasted my tranny right after I paid to have the 4x4 output shaft installed for the 4x4 conversion. 2500 miles later, its toast again... Under warranty from the guy who built it, but its 2000 miles away... I really wish I would have just did the manual swap in the first place. Would have saved me much time, money, and headaches...

And while I am at it, I may as well do a doubler kit as well...

 

[cowboy4x4]

I would be curious to see where the clutch pedal goes. I looked at mine and the gas and brake pedal fill up the entire open floor space. Just to the left of the brake pedal starts the hump for the wheel well.

 

[stevesolinko]

The autos have a wider brake petal, so will have to get one from a manual. Its a tight fit, but can be done. Ill let you all know as I will be doing this swap. For what it will cost to get my tranny fixed, I can run a manual. I just don't trust those dang auto trannys... Plus the gearing is much lower in 1, 2, 3, and R, and higher in 5th. Much better for my application as well.

 

[naterry]

I was about to do this to the Ute when I sold it. My plan was to cut part of the wheel well and box it in to make room for the clutch. I calculated ~$6k for the swap and opted to mog instead.

 

[VANMAN]

Manual Trans

The Ford vans haven't had a manual trans sometime around 75, so there's no easy pedal fix.

I've come across one late model van that's been done, I think he's a member over on thedieselstop.com. He had to cut & modify the doghouse to get the shifter thru the floor. Not sure if it was gas or diesel.

Hello Chris...we have spoken before thanks for the help...I just scored a clutch pedal baox out of a 1988 ford van with the 300 6 cylinder and 4 speed floor mounted manual...not sure when they stooped putting them in there but I know they did up to 1988

 

[r_w]

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=682117

Not sure if this build thread is on here, but it should be. The guy is putting a Cummins+6speed manual in an eco-based class C.

 

[etcatmeat]

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=682117

Not sure if this build thread is on here, but it should be. The guy is putting a Cummins+6speed manual in an eco-based class C.

Sweet...I love how the pic of my motorhome made its way in to the thread! :ylsmoke:

 

[spencyg]

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=682117

Not sure if this build thread is on here, but it should be. The guy is putting a Cummins+6speed manual in an eco-based class C.

INSANITY!!!!!!!!!

Man, that guy is my hero. I would be considered the chief skeptic when it comes to a 6BT install in an Econoline chassis, but this guy has changed my opinion fully. It is obviously an extremely tight fit, but he did it! Holy smokes.

 

[spencyg]

Also, in regards to the topic of this thread, I think a remotely operated clutch using possibly a secondary pneumatic circuit with a variable trigger on the shift handle would be pretty cool. There is such little room in the footwell, regardless of how narrow your pedal sets are, that a remote clutch (instead of a foot operated one) seems like a better solution.

The limited mobility conversion companies out there have been doing this for quite awhile (see "duck clutch" on the googles) so I know its possible. I have access to a ZF 5 speed setup for my engine, and this thread has caused my head to start turning over some ideas. With my bad back being a limiting factor when thinking about manual shifting and clutching, a pneumatically actuated option (running off my existing onboard air system) might be a pretty slick thing.

Hmmmm

 

[r_w]

The footwell is bigger than a civic or many other small or sports cars. I know you can fit a pedal in there, it is fitting size 12's in there that may be an issue.

 

[dsw4x4]

Duck clutch!! Never heard of it but after a quick search man that thing is cool I may have to concoct my own version of it. I still like having a pedal for a backup reasons even if it is a really awkward pedal it would be nice to have as a backup. HMMmm I am going to look at that a little closer I may try that out on my old econoline 4bt/zf conversion and see how it works.

 

[spencyg]

I have the same thought, although the duck clutch is electronic based. I'm more interested in a pneumatic option. I'm envisioning a valve which, when closed provided no pressure/flow, and then as you opened it would provide a proportional ramp to full line pressure. When you release it again, it would once again proportionally go back to 0 line pressure, also purging the excess pressure in the line. Basically, a fast acting lever actuated pressure regulator. Stick the output line on a cylinder to drive the hydraulic slave, and then the harder you pull the lever, the more pressure is applied to the hydraulics though the pneumatic cylinder. Release would go the same way, and you could feather it easily. Mount the whole assembly on a "T" style shifter and you're good to go. I'm seriously considering this system, but also agree, a traditional backup system would be a good idea and could be inline with the remote hydraulics.

 

[r_w]

an air cylinder to do that would be BIG. Not sure if their actuator is strong enough for a truck clutch, either.

A EB 4x4 6bt MT CCV poptop with a veggie conversion would be my ideal vehicle. Now that I know it CAN be done, it is just time and money.

 

[spencyg]

It would only need to be a large diameter cylinder if you worked though a mechanical linkage to the slave which provided some leverage. It would be a longer stroke, but it could all be mounted remotely under the chassis somewhere. 100psi of air acting on a 2" bore cylinder would provide over 300lbs of force....certainly more than my leg would ever be able to generate.