Mtbxj87's 1989 XJ
- Thread starter mtbxj87
- Start date
Well, I have some down time so thought I'd think up a list of little things I've done through the years of loving the old girl.
(Not in actual order)
- water pump, coolant bottle, all heater hoses, radiator and rad hoses, double clamped on the rad hoses.
- power steering pump, return lines, Durango ps cooler, I rebuild the steering box my self.
- timing cover gaskets and front crank seal.
- replaced and indexed dizzy-
- all ignition parts, ngk plugs (I refuse to use worthless champions)
- valve cover gasket, painted cover and sanded the ribs down to bare aluminum. Looks trick.
- got rid of the rustys intake tube with clean able filter ( the dust in bend, Oregon is so fine the cleanable filter don't filter worth a ****)
I couldn't find a renix box so I used a ho box and pieced together a intake tube.
- all vacuum lines replaced
- efan override switch, still can come on automatically
-cyl head was replaced before my owner ship.
- replaced all the engine management sensors and studied how to diag and test all of them religiously.
- replaced all fuel injector pigtails. (Soldered and shrink tube) I am anal about my wiring.
- 97+ headliner
-oil pressure and coolant temp gauges,
- stereo ( nothing special, my days of fancy systems are way past me)
- intake/exhaust gaskets, and replacement exh manifold ( it's recently cracked again, I welded it and is been great since.
- full exhaust, cat delete, thrush2 welded muffler ( it sounds great but if I change it I'll find something much quiteter) heat shield between the muffler and body
- fuel pump and replaced all rubber lines ( I still have the fuel pump resistor, I like it cause the pump doesn't run 100% all the time, easier on the pump, doesn't effect performance.
-trans filter and regular drain and fills ( every oil change)
Replaced tcu, replaced brake switch( controls tc lock up)
- door, hatch, and rear glass gaskets.
-front door window regulators
- under coated lower body line ( still need to under coat rear wheel wells)
- brake pads and machined rotors and drums
-removed front air dam and trimmed bottom of front flares.
- energy suspension motor mount inserts, I love those!
Oem trans mount.
- acdelco battery, new cables and added a few more grounds
-
I know I'm missing a ton of stuff. I am a mechanic and am picky about maintenance, and love to tinker and keep everything clean and adjusted right. The labor of love!
(Not in actual order)
- water pump, coolant bottle, all heater hoses, radiator and rad hoses, double clamped on the rad hoses.
- power steering pump, return lines, Durango ps cooler, I rebuild the steering box my self.
- timing cover gaskets and front crank seal.
- replaced and indexed dizzy-
- all ignition parts, ngk plugs (I refuse to use worthless champions)
- valve cover gasket, painted cover and sanded the ribs down to bare aluminum. Looks trick.
- got rid of the rustys intake tube with clean able filter ( the dust in bend, Oregon is so fine the cleanable filter don't filter worth a ****)
I couldn't find a renix box so I used a ho box and pieced together a intake tube.
- all vacuum lines replaced
- efan override switch, still can come on automatically
-cyl head was replaced before my owner ship.
- replaced all the engine management sensors and studied how to diag and test all of them religiously.
- replaced all fuel injector pigtails. (Soldered and shrink tube) I am anal about my wiring.
- 97+ headliner
-oil pressure and coolant temp gauges,
- stereo ( nothing special, my days of fancy systems are way past me)
- intake/exhaust gaskets, and replacement exh manifold ( it's recently cracked again, I welded it and is been great since.
- full exhaust, cat delete, thrush2 welded muffler ( it sounds great but if I change it I'll find something much quiteter) heat shield between the muffler and body
- fuel pump and replaced all rubber lines ( I still have the fuel pump resistor, I like it cause the pump doesn't run 100% all the time, easier on the pump, doesn't effect performance.
-trans filter and regular drain and fills ( every oil change)
Replaced tcu, replaced brake switch( controls tc lock up)
- door, hatch, and rear glass gaskets.
-front door window regulators
- under coated lower body line ( still need to under coat rear wheel wells)
- brake pads and machined rotors and drums
-removed front air dam and trimmed bottom of front flares.
- energy suspension motor mount inserts, I love those!
Oem trans mount.
- acdelco battery, new cables and added a few more grounds
-
I know I'm missing a ton of stuff. I am a mechanic and am picky about maintenance, and love to tinker and keep everything clean and adjusted right. The labor of love!
Last edited:
Today I installed my new axle shafts. I wasn't looking forward to it cause it's a lot of work. Pulled the wheels, brakes, tie rod, old half shafts and differential out.
Goodbye two piece!
I cleaned up the axle housing and shot some paint
The new shafts with new larger spicer 760x joints. I we t with the sealed units. Mostly cause that's what they sent me lol. I later found out I had to knock the abs ring off cause they won't clear the older hub bearings.
Since the passenger side of the older d30s are not machined for a seal you have to use a custom seal. After some research I used skf brand seal, #11800.
I bought two because it's easy to **** the seals up installing them into the tubes. The driver side you can use a replacement seal.
For the actuator, I just gutted it and put the vacuum actuator back on so it'd be sealed up.
All together!
I also replaced my rear drive shaft bolts with longer grade8s. Old one where too short. The SYE didn't come with longer bolts.
And wallah!! I have a 95+ d30 now whoopie..
I am around 2.5" lift. I'm using zone sway bar end links that are designed for 3-6" lift I believe. Even though I have extended bumpstops the top most of the sway bar link contacts the inner fender at full bump. Not too badly but enough to leave a small dent. So I cut a one inch section of the link out and burned it back together. The sway bar sits at a better angle and no more contact.
I knocked the bushing out, measured and made my cut
Cleaned it up and ground a taper to each side for better weld penetration. Right now the only welder I have access to is a little Lincoln110 flux core.
Burned it in, compare, Then repeat.
All done. Then painted them black.
I knocked the bushing out, measured and made my cut
Cleaned it up and ground a taper to each side for better weld penetration. Right now the only welder I have access to is a little Lincoln110 flux core.
Burned it in, compare, Then repeat.
All done. Then painted them black.
HercDriver
Adventurer
Can you explain the front axle deal? Im getting ready to put new u joints in mine and I see you said something about going from a 2 piece? Care to educate?
Sure, you don't have to do anything to yours! 84-90 had a vacuum operated shift fork in the front axle to connect a two piece axle shaft. This made it so when In 2wd the front diff was not completely turning. The idea was to make it more fuel efficient or something. In 90 jeep went with a one piece axle shaft and did away with the shift fork deal. So the front diff and drive shaft now turns the same as the rear just its not getting any power to it till you shift the tcase into 4wd. The vacuum solenoid on the axle was prone to failure leaving you without 4wd. In 95 jeep went to a larger ujoint in the front, 760x, much stronger then the old ones. So I upgraded. Now I basicly have your front axle...
HercDriver
Adventurer
EWWW. Thanks for the clarification! To be honest I picked mine because I like the body styling. I got lucky they upgraded certain parts! BTW I like the tan color of your rig.
I got around to installing the JCR front tie in kit. I am pleased with the quality and the fit. The steel is pretty hard and is USA made! I pulled off the bumper and tow hooks. Loosened up the fender support brackets then removed the steering box bolts and factory aluminum spacer.
I did have a few snags I wish JCR would take care of. One is the fender support bracket. I read up on thes install of the kit and most people completely removed it. Well, that's all fine for your jeep but not mine. So I cut a notch in to the plate. Easy enough.
I reused he nylock nut from my tow hook kit. ( not tight in photo)
Passenger side. The sleeves through the frame are about .75". The washers supplied would just bend and not really be tight. So I used a carriage bolt flange I had laying around to act like a large washer. I did have to cut about 3/16" off the bolt cause it was really close to the alternator.
I cut the extension part off the tow hook bracket cause If over the plate the through bolt would contact the sway bar.
All back together. I adjusted my track bar then through her up on the alignment rack.
I did have a few snags I wish JCR would take care of. One is the fender support bracket. I read up on thes install of the kit and most people completely removed it. Well, that's all fine for your jeep but not mine. So I cut a notch in to the plate. Easy enough.
I reused he nylock nut from my tow hook kit. ( not tight in photo)
Passenger side. The sleeves through the frame are about .75". The washers supplied would just bend and not really be tight. So I used a carriage bolt flange I had laying around to act like a large washer. I did have to cut about 3/16" off the bolt cause it was really close to the alternator.
I cut the extension part off the tow hook bracket cause If over the plate the through bolt would contact the sway bar.
All back together. I adjusted my track bar then through her up on the alignment rack.
Last edited:
It plates the front of the frame and ties it in with the front crossmember more then just spot welds. One side goes over the steering box bolts and has a steel spacer in between the box and the frame to stiffen that area. Same thing on the passenger side. Both outer plates wrap around and the sway bar bracket bolts over it on the bottom. Now I'll have something stronger to mount a custom bumper to and will resist cracking the frame.
Also next time you have a friend around have them turn the steering wheel back and forth while you keep and eye on the steering box bolts. That section of frame will flex around.
WyoCherokee
Adventurer
I like the progress you are making. Subscribed!