MTD's 1946 Bantam T3-C Expo Trailer Build

[MTD]

So I have a problem. I love the trailer and it is wonderful to use, but it's road manners are not the best... On our first outting we found that anything over 55 mph if there is the slightest curve or bump the trailer will start to sway violently. I think this is partially due to the added weight to the top half of the trailer (lid and RTT).

I filled up the tires to the max PSI, and it helped, but only a little. I am thinking that making shock mounts will be the next step unless someone on here has a better suggestion?

 

[Robert Bills]

Be sure there is more weight in front of the trailer axle than behind it. Also, what is your tongue weight? Too little tongue weight often results in trailer sway with these little trailers. Be sure that it is no less than 10% of the gross trailer weight when fully loaded. 15% would be better.

If that doesn't help then try to lower the trailer's center of gravity. It looks like you have converted to a spring over axle. You might want to rethink that.

The addition of shocks will have little effect on trailer sway. I have towed my Bantam T3-C (which has no shocks) at 75 mph for hours at a time with no sway at all.

 

[MTD]

Be sure there is more weight in front of the trailer axle than behind it. Also, what is your tongue weight? Too little tongue weight often results in trailer sway with these little trailers. Be sure that it is no less than 10% of the gross trailer weight when fully loaded. 15% would be better.

If that doesn't help then try to lower the trailer's center of gravity. It looks like you have converted to a spring over axle. You might want to rethink that.

The addition of shocks will have little effect on trailer sway. I have towed my Bantam T3-C (which has no shocks) at 75 mph for hours at a time with no sway at all.

I have virtually no tounge weight right now... if I am not careful when I pull the trailer off the hitch it will go nose up on me. So this could very well be the issue.

I have pulled in the past 75+ fully loaded and it pulled fine before the build started. My reasoning for the shocks was because the sway started when the trailer "tipped" back and forth. I could see it physically lean and that was when the sway would begin.

 

[Robert Bills]

I think your biggest issue is lack of tongue weight. Rear-heavy single axle trailers of this size tend to sway. You should weigh your trailer fully loaded, then repack the load so that tongue weight is 10-15% of that weight. This link provides an easy way to measure tongue weight: http://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-determine-trailer-tongue-weight.aspx

Do you have a spring over suspension? If so, that will contribute to the R-L tipping you observed. Shocks will dampen the oscillation of the springs (i.e. bouncing) but won't eliminate tipping or sway.

 

[MTD]

I think your biggest issue is lack of tongue weight. Rear-heavy single axle trailers of this size tend to sway. You should weigh your trailer fully loaded, then repack the load so that tongue weight is 10-15% of that weight. This link provides an easy way to measure tongue weight: http://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-determine-trailer-tongue-weight.aspx

Do you have a spring over suspension? If so, that will contribute to the R-L tipping you observed. Shocks will dampen the oscillation of the springs (i.e. bouncing) but won't eliminate tipping or sway.

I will try repacking it then I think that may help.

I am spring over the l-r tipping is caused by the back and forth oscillation. The sway is then escalated by the tipping and it begins to resonate. Shocks will dampen and stop the tipping after it starts and I believe the sway as well since it pulls perfect till I hit a bump.

But for now I will repack and see if that helps.
Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk

 

[MTD]

Tailgate latches and lid lift strut installed!

 

[MTD]

Be sure there is more weight in front of the trailer axle than behind it. Also, what is your tongue weight? Too little tongue weight often results in trailer sway with these little trailers. Be sure that it is no less than 10% of the gross trailer weight when fully loaded. 15% would be better.

If that doesn't help then try to lower the trailer's center of gravity. It looks like you have converted to a spring over axle. You might want to rethink that.

The addition of shocks will have little effect on trailer sway. I have towed my Bantam T3-C (which has no shocks) at 75 mph for hours at a time with no sway at all.

Robert, thank you for your help on this one, I repacked the trailer today and went for a drive and it towed straight as an arrow. I think I will need to work out a way to increase tongue weight (possibly a chest with batteries) because I can't afford not to be able to utilize the full length of the trailer. For now though this should do the trick.

 

[grnhornetcustoms]

My trailer is pretty closely set up to how yours is and pulls without issue. I mounted my tent with the forward edge of the lid. Maybe that would help. Worth a try I would think.

 

[MTD]

My trailer is pretty closely set up to how yours is and pulls without issue. I mounted my tent with the forward edge of the lid. Maybe that would help. Worth a try I would think.

I was thinking of scooting the tent forward on the Thule rails, but that is about the best I could do since the rails are screwed to the lid, but like you said its worth a shot to make it a little better.

I also have an Oddyssey group 34 deep cycle that I am going to be mounting in this harbor freight tool box that should help add some tongue weight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-34-cu-ft-steel-trailer-tongue-box-60302.html

 

[MTD]

I picked up a 3d printer yesterday so there should be a multitude of unique mods to come

 

[FloridaFJ80]

Awesome work !

Quick question what did you use to strip the trailer. I have bantam as well and want to save money and not pay for media blastinf. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

 

[Willman]

Your build is coming along very nicely!

 

[xaqori]

I should really get started on building my trailer...

 

[MTD]

Awesome work !

Quick question what did you use to strip the trailer. I have bantam as well and want to save money and not pay for media blastinf. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

I used a wire wheel on a 10 amp angle grinder. If I were to do it again, I would wait until you have the money for media blasting. I am still pulling wires both out of my clothes and there are couple still embedded in my skin... I would only reccomend it as a last resort. It didn't do a very good job on top of all the pain.

Your build is coming along very nicely!

Thank you sir!

 

[nesbit6363]

Originally, the T3-C came with a single Arrow "Model 41" tail light on the left side. There are very few of the original lights still in existence and they rarely come up for sale.

The original owner of my '46 T3-C added a hole for a tail light on the right side and used taillight assemblies from a 1950 Pontiac, seen below, which were a perfect fit. ['50 Pontiac taillights were/still are popular on '30s era Ford roadster customs. Reproductions are currently available (although pricey) from Bob Drake Reproductions https://www.bobdrake.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=HR-13405]

I had the bezels for my '50 Pontiac tail lights re-chromed and bought 3 sets of replacement plastic lenses from taillightking.com in Montgomery, Texas "just in case."

Where did you get that cover and rack at, this trailer looks awesome!