Stryder106
Explorer
They've arrived........................................Spohn does some nice work. Now I just need some dry weather. Pics tomorrow.
My 02 Avalanche NFE
- Thread starter Stryder106
- Start date
Stryder106
Explorer
It has been awhile as I've been slammed with work and traveling a lot on business. Finally got to do a few upgrades on my Avalanche though. My GF got me the Spohn Performance tubular adjustable upper and lower rear control arms for Christmas. These things are really nice and extremely well priced - worth the purchase IMHO.
//
Here's the comparison of the stock upper and Spohn Performance upper. Big difference. I somehow missed taking a picture of the lowers.
//
Install is easy. Jack stands under the frame, floor jack under the diff, remove the tires. 4 bolts per side. Make sure to measure - one of my uppers was off by 3/8" - the other three were dead on with the stock lengths. Also be sure to make sure the jam nuts are tight. They look good.
//
//
Per Spohn - they are also at least 10X stronger than stock. I never really knew how much flex was in the rear of my Av until I put these on. Took them over some test dips and speed bumps and the difference was pretty astonishing. I'm impressed. It's a very worthwhile mod for anyone who has one of these.
//
The install allowed me to resolve another issue. On the Slash X run we did New Year's Day, I kept noticing that when the rear of my Av would compress over dips, whoops, bumps, it would rebound and throw the front left of my AV down much more noticeably than the right. So much so, that I thought I had blown the left rear shock - but it checked out fine. However, upon taking the rear tires off and pulling the arms, I noticed that my left rear bump stop as two full humps (or whatever you call them) shorter than the left one (it had worn/torn/aged/corroded away). This would allow my rear to compress unevenly and rebound harder to the opposite side, thus throwing my truck to the front left. So, I rimmed the longer bump stop to even them out and retested - issue fixed - everything level and as it should be.
//
Here's the comparison of the stock upper and Spohn Performance upper. Big difference. I somehow missed taking a picture of the lowers.
//
Install is easy. Jack stands under the frame, floor jack under the diff, remove the tires. 4 bolts per side. Make sure to measure - one of my uppers was off by 3/8" - the other three were dead on with the stock lengths. Also be sure to make sure the jam nuts are tight. They look good.
//
//
Per Spohn - they are also at least 10X stronger than stock. I never really knew how much flex was in the rear of my Av until I put these on. Took them over some test dips and speed bumps and the difference was pretty astonishing. I'm impressed. It's a very worthwhile mod for anyone who has one of these.
//
The install allowed me to resolve another issue. On the Slash X run we did New Year's Day, I kept noticing that when the rear of my Av would compress over dips, whoops, bumps, it would rebound and throw the front left of my AV down much more noticeably than the right. So much so, that I thought I had blown the left rear shock - but it checked out fine. However, upon taking the rear tires off and pulling the arms, I noticed that my left rear bump stop as two full humps (or whatever you call them) shorter than the left one (it had worn/torn/aged/corroded away). This would allow my rear to compress unevenly and rebound harder to the opposite side, thus throwing my truck to the front left. So, I rimmed the longer bump stop to even them out and retested - issue fixed - everything level and as it should be.
Stryder106
Explorer
Today - I addressed my brakes - again. I'm the original owner of this Av and since Day 1 I have complained about the weak braking and the damn near non-existent parking brake holding power. I took it to GM multiple times under warranty and they kept telling me that everything was fine. Well over the years, I've changed to more and more aggressive pads, replaced the rotors with OEM replacements and adjusted the parking brake cable all the way - all to no avail. Nothing worked.
//
Less than a year ago, I purchased the Power Stop Z36 Extreme Duty rotors and pads (all four wheels) and put them on. HUGE difference in stopping power - even with my 33" tires. I was happy, and then I put the 35" tires on and was right back where I was before - weak braking. Not a happy camper. After a narrow miss a few weeks ago when someone decided to walk out in front of me - I stood on the brakes and GLIDED to a stop (unreal). Enough is enough. Reading some posts in here and on CAFCNA I found that the larger diameter front rotors from a 2007 Tahoe (and the associated larger caliper) will fit the 2002 Avalanche and resolve the problem. researched the appropriate Power Stop Z36 kit and confirmed it with HenryJ (thanks man!!). I also bought new stainless braided brakes lines (all 5) so that I could replace the original OEM rubber ones and hopefully help the pressure a bit (anything I can get- I want).
//
With that said, I actually took it to a brake shop as HenryJ also told me that my parking brake issue is due to an improper factory install (that angers me given how many times I took it back for the issue). New front rotors and pads, brake lines, fluid flush and all new fluid in it, and parking brake finally installed properly and I'm a much happier camper. The pads are stil seating in, but I can already feel the difference.
//
//
So - I have the Power Stop Z36 zinc plated, cross-drilled, slotted front rotors and stock calipers with the PS pads (rotors and pads are ~1 year old, calipers are stock 2002) - if anyone wants them - you can have them for the $70 core charge I would get if I sent them back to Summit. Let me know.
//
Less than a year ago, I purchased the Power Stop Z36 Extreme Duty rotors and pads (all four wheels) and put them on. HUGE difference in stopping power - even with my 33" tires. I was happy, and then I put the 35" tires on and was right back where I was before - weak braking. Not a happy camper. After a narrow miss a few weeks ago when someone decided to walk out in front of me - I stood on the brakes and GLIDED to a stop (unreal). Enough is enough. Reading some posts in here and on CAFCNA I found that the larger diameter front rotors from a 2007 Tahoe (and the associated larger caliper) will fit the 2002 Avalanche and resolve the problem. researched the appropriate Power Stop Z36 kit and confirmed it with HenryJ (thanks man!!). I also bought new stainless braided brakes lines (all 5) so that I could replace the original OEM rubber ones and hopefully help the pressure a bit (anything I can get- I want).
//
With that said, I actually took it to a brake shop as HenryJ also told me that my parking brake issue is due to an improper factory install (that angers me given how many times I took it back for the issue). New front rotors and pads, brake lines, fluid flush and all new fluid in it, and parking brake finally installed properly and I'm a much happier camper. The pads are stil seating in, but I can already feel the difference.
//
//
So - I have the Power Stop Z36 zinc plated, cross-drilled, slotted front rotors and stock calipers with the PS pads (rotors and pads are ~1 year old, calipers are stock 2002) - if anyone wants them - you can have them for the $70 core charge I would get if I sent them back to Summit. Let me know.
chilliwak
Expedition Leader
Wow:Wow1:Stryder, looks like you really have got some improvements there. Cool looking red :wings:control arms. Thats a good girlfriend that buys you stuff you can use for christmas instead of socks.... Henry J does know about these rigs so I am happy he could help you out with some brake upgrades. Larry also mentioned that the disk parking brakes leave a lot to be desired. All in all a good few upgrades. Thanks for posting up. Cheers, Chilli...
Lookin Good!
Man, everyone who does the NNBS brakes loves them, I'm on 16's, and they won't fit, but you all are talking me into it
What's the details on installing the parking brake correctly? This has always bothered me. I've adjusted and replaced it too many times to count.
Man, everyone who does the NNBS brakes loves them, I'm on 16's, and they won't fit, but you all are talking me into it
What's the details on installing the parking brake correctly? This has always bothered me. I've adjusted and replaced it too many times to count.
Stryder106
Explorer
Lookin Good!
Man, everyone who does the NNBS brakes loves them, I'm on 16's, and they won't fit, but you all are talking me into it
What's the details on installing the parking brake correctly? This has always bothered me. I've adjusted and replaced it too many times to count.
From HenryJ
The parking brake shoe is improperly installed. You need a shoe caliper to properly set the gap when installing the park brake shoes. The shoe is adjustable. With the proper gap set you will have plenty of pedal. Too much gap and the pedal can never go far enough to apply clamping force. The parking brake shoes do not auto adjust. Some manuals do not give the proper gap procedure. Check out this thread: http://www.s-10crewcab.net/forums/vi...ustment#p94026
"Tools Required
A Drum-to-Brake Shoe Clearance Gauge
Proper adjustment requires a tool for checking the air gap between the drum (rotor hat) and the shoes. It is like a large caliper. (GM# J 2117-A Drum to Brake Shoe Clearance Gauge) KD Tools also makes one. I think it was close to $50
Image
Important
The park brake shoes must be adjusted before the park brake pedal is adjusted.
1. Set the tool so that it contacts the inside diameter of the rotor.
2. Position the tool over the shoe and the lining at the widest point.
3. Turn the adjuster nut until the lining just contacts the tool.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 for the opposite side.
5. The clearance between the park brake shoe and the rotor is 0.6604 mm (0.026 in)."
Stryder106
Explorer
HUGE upgrade/mod list in the works - going all in...........
//
Question: I have the 4x4 NFE - which came with 4.10 gears, 17" wheels, AT tires, tow package, etc. It also came with Bilsteins front and rear. I had always assumed it was the Z71 suspension package - ya know, being a North Face Edition and all. I went by a Chevy dealer to pull the build sheet on my truck and was surprised to learn that it has BASE model coil springs in the rear. I have added #1000 Air Lift bags inside my coils for when I'm loaded, but dang BASE springs?
//
With that said, I'm getting ready to do a bunch of stuff that is going to add a lot of weight over the rear of the truck. Given that I'm leveled up in the front (don't think I can go much more than I am without an actual lift kit) - but I'm looking at potentially adding either Z71 springs - or I was reading about the H2 springs. But, I don't want to raise my rear and have that nose down rake again. Any thoughts?
//
Question: I have the 4x4 NFE - which came with 4.10 gears, 17" wheels, AT tires, tow package, etc. It also came with Bilsteins front and rear. I had always assumed it was the Z71 suspension package - ya know, being a North Face Edition and all. I went by a Chevy dealer to pull the build sheet on my truck and was surprised to learn that it has BASE model coil springs in the rear. I have added #1000 Air Lift bags inside my coils for when I'm loaded, but dang BASE springs?
//
With that said, I'm getting ready to do a bunch of stuff that is going to add a lot of weight over the rear of the truck. Given that I'm leveled up in the front (don't think I can go much more than I am without an actual lift kit) - but I'm looking at potentially adding either Z71 springs - or I was reading about the H2 springs. But, I don't want to raise my rear and have that nose down rake again. Any thoughts?
Jelorian
Adventurer
Nice upgrades.
With regards to the GMT900 upgrade you did, I did mine a few months back and the difference is night and day. I'm much more confident with the stopping power. Like you, I've had incidents where I thought she wouldn't stop in time as she slowly glided in.
Stryder106
Explorer
You know anyone who needs the GMT800 front brake rotors? I have the Power Stop Z36 Extreme Duty I just took off - they are ~1 year old (8K miles). If you know someone in need, they can have them, the calipers, and the pads for $70 (the core charge I would get back if I send them in).
rayra
Expedition Leader
I'm think I'm calling dibs on that, seems like a fantastic deal to me. My fronts were worn when I got it 2yrs ago and I threw new pads on as a stopgap while I did other things. And I'm a long ways from doing the 900 swap with hopefully some road trips before then. So it seems like a very good idea to me.
I just put new rotors and shoes / pads on my Sub rear a couple weeks ago and quickly had trouble with the parking shoe adjustment but I have it set ok now, no drag, no heat, good e-brake pedal. Took some fiddling. I also had some trouble with some stuck-on shims on the pads, the outer pads on both sides, the braking forces were shoving the shims down into the hub, sliding right across the face of the shoes. Went too cheap I guess.
DirtbagOverland
Member
coincidence your writing about this now... recently just installed Wilwood brake kit on my 07 Avalanche with 33"s, INSANE stopping power over stock! Then last week I installed 35's and I'm kind of shocked the difference in stopping distance with larger tires. I'm trying to resolve this soon, possibly upgrade the master cylinder. Glad the GMT900 upgrade worked out for you, I used to rip thru pads on my 02!
Stryder106
Explorer
Lots of mods in progress. A sneak peak...............
DirtbagOverland
Member
So sick, I love it! How did you attach the forward part of the rack between the pillars? Truly well built, I dig that you cut the storage lids to stay functional, any water getting in?
Stryder106
Explorer
The covers have latch handles underneath that rotate 90* to lock. Two locks per outer 2 panels, 4 locks for the inner panel. They hold 250# each - but will hold a lot more if need be. I weigh 240 and can stand on them and they don't flex.