My 1998 100 Series Build Thread

bossman429

Adventurer
Helton hot water shower

So I just finished installing my Helton hot water shower system purchased from cruiser outfitters

I have to say I'm slightly disappointed based on my initial impressions.

Issues - you really don't get much. A heat exchanger, a pump with a hose that goes directly to the shower head that has a weird British thread on it (not standard), some clamps and that's it

Here's a picture of what you get
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And what I needed to buy from a local hose/hydraulic shop (an additional $130 worth)
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Step one is finding a suitable location for the exchanger. Since my truck doesn't have AHC I had loads of space between the airbox and the fire wall. There's some existing threaded holes I used which was nice, I do have to bend a few brackets slightly to make room and make sure nothing rubbed or rattled on each other
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Next is splicing into the heater lines. Don't make the mistake I did and cut into the top (3/4") lines. You'll realize you need a 3/4x3/4x5/8" tee instead of the 5/8x5/8x5/8" tee I got, and also one of the lines is so incredibly short there is no room to put another tee in. Luckily I was able to replace the now cut factory hose with some spare hose I had laying around, no harm done.

Where you want to splice it into is the lower heater hoses that come off the main or upper heater lines. I'm assuming these are the lines for the rear heater core. They are a pain to get to especially on a lifted truck. I found myself literally laying across the engine. But some cussing, sweating and bloody knuckles later the tees were in place and clamped down nicely. I was sure to use heavy duty heater hose, this stuff is strong, way stronger than the factory hoses i spliced into
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I played around with the routing a bit but decided to go up high through the ac lines rather than lower bc that would have been too close to the valve cover/head for my liking. Plus with the new heater hoses I used being so thick, I figured anything they touch would be ok. Besides the hottest they could possibly get is ~200 degrees and that won't damage anything under the hood anyways. I tried my best to use clamps to keep things tidy, but to be honest I didn't find the need for many of them

Now onto the water lines. I decided to mount the fittings on the bumper so I didn't have to open the hood. I used quick connects that don't close when disconnected. This will keep any pressure from being built up if water was to freeze in the exchanger and thus keeping things from cracking/breaking. Also I altered the female/male ends so there is no way I can put the wrong line on the wrong side, since they will only correspond with the correct fitting on either the pump or shower head lines
I did my best to keep the water lines routed neatly and clamped down to avoid rubbing
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Quick connects are barely visible from the front. I do want to get some soft plastic caps to put on to keep dirt and dust out of them
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So I tested it out with a 5 gallon bucket. Initial thoughts are this.

It certainly works, but turn the shower off for even a few seconds and you'll get a few seconds of scalding water when you turn it back on. Ill be looking for a small compact mixing valve in the near future to avoid this but for now my brain will be the mixing valve

Again- not totally pleased with what the system gives you. They should give you a separate line for the pump and shower head, not have the pump come connected directly to the shower head. The way they have it would work if you weren't running it through a heat exchanger, but I had to cut off this line and fit a new one on for the pick up, and re-use the old for the shower head since it was some weird thread I couldn't find anywhere. Also the shower head hose could be a little longer.

The heat exchange works. I'd say 15-20 degrees per pass. Not quite the 40 as advertised. Still....80 degree water is much better than 60 and I don't mind cycling it through once to get it another 20 degrees if need be.

The clamps and brackets are good quality. The directions are piss poor, but then again it's not rocket science to figure out.

Will get to test it out soon on the trails and we'll see how it does. I'd give the system. 6.5-7 out of 10. If I had to do it again I may just take the time to piece together my own kit
 

bossman429

Adventurer
Jerry can holder

In anticipation of our trip to cape breton, I decided to fab up my own Jerry can holder. I want to be able to hold two water cans and mounting on the second swing arm I have, thus freeing up room in the truck and not having me worry about spilling water.

With some 1/8 plate I had laying around, I bent cut welded and drill two u brackets that fit snug around the swing arm itself.

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I couldn't find anyone to bend me up some 1.75" tubing, so I ordered two pre bent 90's and some straight pieces and made my own hoop. Some careful aligning, welding and grinding/sanding and you won't be able to tell the difference when powder coated.
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I then used some 1/8" flat bar and made the "basket" and mounted the brackets to the hoop
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Note this pic below looks like its leaning off the back, it's just because its not bolted in and the brackets have just a weee bit of room (enough for the powder coating thats to come). it will sit straight up when bolted on
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Now it's off to the powder coaters before I bolt it on.... It's very sturdy and I'm happy with it, I've welded on some hooks to the bars on each side to attached a ratchet strap too as well, but don't have a pic of that handy.

The yellow diesel cans are just for mocking it up, I have some scepter cans on their way to be used for water.

In all it cost me ~75 in material and a few evenings in the garage. Very happy with the results!
 

cruiseroutfit

Well-known member
...Again- not totally pleased with what the system gives you. They should give you a separate line for the pump and shower head, not have the pump come connected directly to the shower head. The way they have it would work if you weren't running it through a heat exchanger, but I had to cut off this line and fit a new one on for the pick up, and re-use the old for the shower head since it was some weird thread I couldn't find anywhere. Also the shower head hose could be a little longer...

Sorry to hear your not completely please with the Helton system. I wanted to chime in on a couple notes. You shouldn't need to match any weird thread? All that coupler does is attach the vinyl hose and barbed fitting to the shower wand itself. I've not had anyone bring that up before so I'm assuming that is what you are referring to? The hose does come assembled at both the pump and head ends but you can liberate it from either side in seconds, perhaps we could start doing that before we ship them out in kits to make it more transparent. To be fair we are very clear about the additional components that will be needed for the install on the website and the install instructions on the site, we could easily include them all but as every install is different, the lengths of the hoses, needed t-fittings, temp valves, etc would all vary and the kit cost would be higher. We've installed many of these in the shop and never spend more than an additional ~$20-30 for the needed 5/8" or 3/4" hose, the vinyl hose and associated clamps. Obviously the sky is the limit on additional components and that leads right back into why we abandoned trying to send out one size fits-all kits for the time being. As for the performance, I'm not able to look at your pictures (out of country) but will look at them asap to see if I can help figure out the lack of hot water. Given your using tee's I'm assuming your running it in the standard parallel (with respect to your heater system) configuration versus series?
 

bossman429

Adventurer
Sorry to hear your not completely please with the Helton system. I wanted to chime in on a couple notes. You shouldn't need to match any weird thread? All that coupler does is attach the vinyl hose and barbed fitting to the shower wand itself. I've not had anyone bring that up before so I'm assuming that is what you are referring to? The hose does come assembled at both the pump and head ends but you can liberate it from either side in seconds, perhaps we could start doing that before we ship them out in kits to make it more transparent. To be fair we are very clear about the additional components that will be needed for the install on the website and the install instructions on the site, we could easily include them all but as every install is different, the lengths of the hoses, needed t-fittings, temp valves, etc would all vary and the kit cost would be higher. We've installed many of these in the shop and never spend more than an additional ~$20-30 for the needed 5/8" or 3/4" hose, the vinyl hose and associated clamps. Obviously the sky is the limit on additional components and that leads right back into why we abandoned trying to send out one size fits-all kits for the time being. As for the performance, I'm not able to look at your pictures (out of country) but will look at them asap to see if I can help figure out the lack of hot water. Given your using tee's I'm assuming your running it in the standard parallel (with respect to your heater system) configuration versus series?


No need to apologize. You and your staff were very helpful any great to deal with. Your absolutely right about making it clear what's needed in addition. It just didn't hit home for me until I had it laid out in front of me.

Now....these are just suggestions and I totally understand how trying to put together a complete kit is impossible as everyone is going to use it differently... But;

If your buying the heat exchanger you will need another hose for the pump to feed the exchanger... Now way around it. My suggestion would be provide 10' or so of 3/8" PVC reinforced hose for such. Do have the grey vinyl hose that comes with the female end attached separate from the pump, because again your not going to ever connect that directly to the pump if you have the heat exchanger

As for the heater hose. I bought about 10' of it. I probably only use 6-7' but I didn't know exactly where I was going to mount it. You can or cannot attempt to add this, again this is going to be different for each installation... Since some may install it within 2'' And Others may install it 18' away towards the rear of the truck.


As for the threads on that grey vinyl hose for the shower head, I brought it to a plumbing supply shop and they couldn't find anything that matched up to it. No biggie, I was easily able to work around it with barbed fittings.

The performance isn't bad per say, just not the 40 degrees as advertised. This could be bc of the length of hoses I have or whatever. I am running it in paralell, of what I believe to be the rear heater lines. I can take better pics if someone can confirm I have it plumbed properly and not switched so that the hot coolant in is actually off the back side of the heater loop.

Again, I'm not totally dissatisfied, I'm just saying its not as much of a complete solution out of the box as for whatever reason (warranted or not) I had somewhat thought it would be
 

bossman429

Adventurer
Great job, if I could only weld...

300-400 bucks on Craigslist for a used Lincoln or miller 110v mig welder, and another 150 on a gas set up and teach yourself! That's what I did and its not that hard. Don't waste your time with flux core or those cheap *** harbor freight welders.

It's really fun an addicting and your always trying to out do your previous welds lol. Best part is a handful of scrap metal can keep you busy practicing for a whole weekend....and it's cheap!

It's paid itself back 10 fold already and I've only had it 1.5 yrs
 

cruiseroutfit

Well-known member
No need to apologize. You and your staff were very helpful any great to deal with. Your absolutely right about making it clear what's needed in addition. It just didn't hit home for me until I had it laid out in front of me.

Now....these are just suggestions and I totally understand how trying to put together a complete kit is impossible as everyone is going to use it differently... But;

If your buying the heat exchanger you will need another hose for the pump to feed the exchanger... Now way around it. My suggestion would be provide 10' or so of 3/8" PVC reinforced hose for such. Do have the grey vinyl hose that comes with the female end attached separate from the pump, because again your not going to ever connect that directly to the pump if you have the heat exchanger

As for the heater hose. I bought about 10' of it. I probably only use 6-7' but I didn't know exactly where I was going to mount it. You can or cannot attempt to add this, again this is going to be different for each installation... Since some may install it within 2'' And Others may install it 18' away towards the rear of the truck.


As for the threads on that grey vinyl hose for the shower head, I brought it to a plumbing supply shop and they couldn't find anything that matched up to it. No biggie, I was easily able to work around it with barbed fittings.

The performance isn't bad per say, just not the 40 degrees as advertised. This could be bc of the length of hoses I have or whatever. I am running it in paralell, of what I believe to be the rear heater lines. I can take better pics if someone can confirm I have it plumbed properly and not switched so that the hot coolant in is actually off the back side of the heater loop.

Again, I'm not totally dissatisfied, I'm just saying its not as much of a complete solution out of the box as for whatever reason (warranted or not) I had somewhat thought it would be

Great suggestions and something we will look into it. As soon as I have better internet access than my phone I'll see if we can't figure out your output temp. The 40* increase is often conservative at that.
 

bossman429

Adventurer
Got the Jerry can holder back from the powder coater today and bolted it up. Came out looking great and it's very sturdy when bolted on. Doesn't move a hair.

I decided to just use a ratchet strap to keep the cans in place, it's simple, won't rattle when there are no cans in the holder (because it won't be there) and is quick to use. I could easily have come up with a metal bar to hold things in place that I guess could be lockable, but to be honest it's not of concern for me at this time.


What do you all think? I'm very pleased with it and even considering making them for sale if there is enough interest. This is obviously on a Bump it offroad swing arm but I'm sure the slee and arb ones are very similar, and I'd just need one to use as a mockup. I would proably have them priced around 375 powder coated, 325 painted/bed liner, and 310 bare metal.

It sticks out no farther than the spare tire and doesn't sit any lower than the tire...
Yes I know I'm missing one bolt in the pictures, I forgot how to count to 6 while at the store apparently lol

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60Dan

Explorer
Great looking 100 series!
Tasteful and functional mods - I like your direction.
That series landcruiser is really growing on me. If i could get one with a 1VD-FTV diesel V8 I would be all over it!
 

bossman429

Adventurer
Great looking 100 series!
Tasteful and functional mods - I like your direction.
That series landcruiser is really growing on me. If i could get one with a 1VD-FTV diesel V8 I would be all over it!

Thanks! I'm about halfway through building. Drawer system for it. Coming along great but man it's labor intensive. Just so many things to plan and layout. Hoping to have it done before a 10 trip to Cape Breton Island and back starting next weekend. But if its not no buggy, action packers will make due for now. Ill be sure to add to this thread once done.
 

bossman429

Adventurer
Drawer system

Well not completely done yet but figured I'd get this updatd started.

In preparation for a 10 day trip to Cape Breton Island next weekend, I am trying to get a drawer system and sleeping platform done. Well I'm pretty sure I won't get then sleeping platform done in time but the drawers are just about there.

I decided to go with a metal frame with wood drawers/top wrapped in carpet. Frame is 3/4" steel tubing... I can't weld aluminum so steel it was. The drawer slides are 200lb rated, they are heavy. In fact they probably account for almost half the weight of the whole thing. Drawers and top are 1/2" birch plywood (and not the cheap Chinese birch plywood bs, it's the good stuff that's 73 bucks a sheet!)

I made one hatch where I'll put my recovery gear in case I'm in a spot where opening the tailgate and drawers aren't and option. Anything else in the drawers (stove, tools, kitchen stuff etc) can certainly wait to be accessed from the drawers.

I will say working with carpeting is a pain. Especially when it involves anything that twist ( like screws or drill bits). I had a couple areas where the carpet got spun up and made a run. Of course the worst spot is front and center! Ill look past it for now but in the winter I may re-upholster the top.

Also not a huge fan of the southco latches. Just such a small bezel around the finished side if your more than 1/4" off on your cut, it shows. Again another thing to fix when I'm bored.

Still have to wrap the sides in aluminum sheet, mount the drawers, then install using u-bolts on the factory seat mounts. The sleeping platform will be at a later date...


Anyways. Here's the in progress pics:

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bossman429

Adventurer
Drawers continued

Some updated pics, got the sides wrapped in aluminum, some 100 rivets later.

Also got it secured in to the truck. Very simple. Two u bolts towards the front, and a large washer and bolt in a square hole towards the rear on each side. It's very secure.

Tomorrow will be the fitting of the drawers, putting the top back on and installing the pull latches.


Looks a bit silly with all the shiny metal but with the top on and the future folding out platform to go right up to the front seats, I think it will look nice. And if it doesn't, ill just paint it ;)

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